Leaderboard

Just leaving Swanage station…(iPhone 8!)

This is a ridiculous situation to be caught in, and it is hardly the fault of the @VRS245Grey, who I assume thought he was taking a belt-and-braces approach to warranty cover, only to find that instead of stacking warranties, the two warranties actually undermine each other. It's absolutely disgraceful behaviour. If I go into a shop, I don't expect to be told "We don't accept cash if you have a credit card in your wallet.". Having two warranties should give a consumer choice, in no way should it be allowed to be used as an excuse for a warranty company to weasel out of their obligation. I understand the complexities, confusion and potential fraud that might arise if someone makes multiple warranty claims for a fault. However mitigation against fraud should not render warranties ineffectual. I wonder how far this weaselly legal rot has spread? If you join the AA and RAC, might you phone the RAC up only to be told that membership of the AA invalidates your RAC cover? I think @Gazis on the money with his reference to talking to trading standards. As an additional suggestion, if you have legal cover on your car insurance (or home insurance), it might be worth checking if you can apply some legal leverage in your favour on this issue.

I always aim to keep the oil level at the centre of the hatched area on the dipstick or slightly above. Never fill more than ¼ litre in one go, and recheck the level after 2 or 3 minutes, before deciding whether to add more. I often find ½ litre is enough to take the oil level from the bottom of the hatched area to the top, and not the 1 litre often quoted. With fast cornering or significant gradients/tilts or extreme acceleration/braking, if the oil level is too low, there is the possibility of the the level being below the pickup and losing all oil pressure. On the other hand if the oil level is too high, the crank could hit and churn the oil in the sump and aerate it, with the result of total and prolonged loss of oil pressure as oil pumps don't work with aerated oil. To answer the OP's question, if you must drive with too much oil, drive very gently, avoid high acceleration, sharp braking and cornering. Hmm...to remove 1 litre drop by drop by redipping and wiping would take around 3000 redips and wipes assuming 0.33ml removed each time, around 12 - 48 hours if done non stop. You sadist..😉

They took in the car, they checked the Service History & they as in Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee then sold it as a Skoda Approved Car and put a Skoda Warranty on it. Now they do this as a job, and the customers pay a premium buying Skoda, VW, SEAT or Audi Approved cars for peace of mind. I try to remind them of that at every opportunity just to keep them on their toes. If customers want crap Customer Services they have AC, Parks, Vardy or a few others to go to. Or MOTORCHOICE (JC Select) part of John Clark Motor group and where they can maybe punt the questionable service history cars, and if you have an issue find it hard to get hold of the salesperson you dealt with.

Regarding the timing - it's designed around how long it would take to fill your car with fuel, and then check the oil. Like people used to do in the olden days. So a couple of mins or so is fine. My Merc showed the level on the dash and only needed 1 minute of engine off before it would display a reading. Hot oil runs back into the sump quickly. It also expands a bit so in practice I find the level is near-as-dammit the same if checking when hot after a couple of mins, or stone cold.

I’m certainly hoping that’s the case. All in was bought online, I asked hawco what options I had and they pointed me at the website but didn’t advise at all. No inspection , just a form online. I should have paid more attention to the small print but as I say I was lulled in to a false sense of security, I was more interested is rolling all the costs into one package than the warranty which I didn’t even consider I’d need! My previous vrs was essentially faultless til it got to 8 years old and then it was mainly wear and tear! Serviced to manufacturers specs but not main dealer before it went back to specialist cars last summer and by me this summer. Vaq serviced and brake fluid changed, as far as I’m aware it’s not had any issues and is up to date with recommendations. I was a little weary that the non dealer servicing may have affected the warranty but verbally was told this wouldn’t be the case ahead of buying, should have got that in writing, but I think I’m too trusting!

Kept working away and... And with some brake cleaner down the intake... It's definitely airlocked, might bring the laptop out next day and see if i can prime the system that way like you can on the common rails.

I have read this thread, but to be honest I am completelty lost about all this. So, is there anyone in the North East of england (around Newcastle upon Tyne ) that I can visit and will assess the situation for me and if possible make the relevant adjustments for a reasonable cost as I find TMC valuable when travelling long distances.

Thanks for the responses. I think you're referring the original satnav system, which I had in my previous 2017 Superb. Unfortunately, they have fitted an 'improved' satnav in my 2022 Superb and, predictably, it's worse than the old one in every respect that I've tried. It's very similar to the one I had in a Cupra Formentor, which was also rubbish (although it did have an external zoom control). So unfortunately your suggestions don't work. HOWEVER, after much messing, I've discovered that I can do it by very positively putting my finger and thumb on the screen and pinching / opening them, whilst ensuring they stay in solid contact with the screen. Sounds straightforward, but if not executed very deliberately, you can inadvertently shift the map and throw off its alignment, which was the issue I had.

Sometimes actual Skoda Recall Actions outstanding are not done at dealerships. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions A car might not get Serviced if not due and just the Workshop Safety Checks, or the car arrives from another dealer / area and missed because ticked off sometime a while ago. Spit & polish. (scratch) maybe a kerbside auto's touch up and off it goes. Skoda Approved Used car. Warranty given. *Threads on Skoda Approved Cars and how pathetic some are and the excuses made in the General Automotive Chat section of BRISKODA.* Yet, You take a car in without the correct service history and Skoda / Dealers can be quick to say Warranty Voided. ..................Buyer beware, be aware. This page is often overlooked. A 'Multipoint check' does not mean the car gets a service if not due within maybe a month. Check cars finance status, insurance reported, even Skoda Management cars in accidents might never have been reported to insurers. The Recalls / TPI,s should be checked. Things slip.

You got time to kill? My folks did the same, added about the same amount to a full engine. Their penance? To get that level down drop by drop using the dipstick. It took a while but they did it and now know the difference between “checking” and topping up”, but still blaming me. 😱

No it's different. You have to change haldex oil after every 30k miles. I am sure that your problem is not diferential, as i sad it's probablly haldex.

No delay, low refrigerant can cause a whistling noise from the metered orifice where the gas expands in the evaporator.

Cheapest noname parts are usually of really low quality. Why don’t you just buy a used genuine Skoda part? I would. And it should be even cheaper than new noname part and definitelly of much, much better quality and durability.

16706 (P0322) - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal Has the wiring been pinned from the plug to the ECU? You can take some solace from the fact this happens to all of us, I am having a sketch with a low milage randomly stuttering 2015 Polo 1.4i that came in completely underivable in limp mode with throttle pedal and throttle body fault codes plus one for the cam position sensor. We fitted a genuine new throttle pedal which cleared those codes and left it driving better but still going into limp mode occasionally for the TB, then a Febi throttle body which stopped the limp mode totally. Then the ECU which cured the cam sensor code which left me with a random stutter so coil packs, MAP sensor and plugs all to no avail, I even put Shell V Power and injector cleaner in; now it leaves no codes or measuring block clues (apart from a matching MAP dip) to its totally random occurrences. All compressions are 17.8 Bar, the timing is perfect, I have run it lambda (for some reason Basic Settings 099 will not work) and knock disconnected and pressure tested using the VAG test kit. My instinct says a sticky injector (possibly valve guide) but which one?

I think John Clark Motor Group will see the 'Simply Clever'' way to deal with this. I have had great experiences as a customer and with mates working for them. As it is it is Hawco that has to be questioned about how they dealt with the matter since the Car was Skoda Approved with a Warranty to claim against. @VRS245Grey How or where did you buy the 'All in plan', online or at a dealership and was there any inspection carried out as part of it? What is the 'Full Main Dealer Service History',. and any Recall or Warranty History, and has the car been serviced to the Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations or specification. Has the Brake Fluid been changed, the VAQ diff serviced and anything else other than Oil & Inspection Services & Extended Scope done?

They are designed to come out very easily so you can replace the bulbs. It should all covered in the owners manual. I'd probably remove the damaged one to check the part number and source a good quality used one, as you might find a brand new one looks odd compared to the original one on the other side. Whilst it's off, check the indicator bulbs as the yellow can flake off with age 👍

I think banning pure diesel and petrol cars is a non issue as all vehicles should have some degree of electrical hybrid system. I have been very sceptical on having just a kWh or two of battery and electric motors than just give propulsion of 60 kph or so but it bloody works. Having just added a Clio ETECH to the family stable and it is Impressive. It can be on EV mode 80% in urban scenario. It is obvious to me that Renault just tweak up the amount of battery to continue to drive down emissions. Austral has 2 kWh battery instead of the Clio's 1 kwh, phev Renaults versions have 10 kWh batteries. The EV battery, as energy density improves by 10% per annum and cost down by 20% per annum adding battery to cars with ICE is quite cheap and pays for itself quickly in my experience. Only cars like K cars should be pure ice without electrical assist and energy recovery IMO.

Source the part and fit it yourself. It’s a 2 minute job.

We will see how Norway gets on with the ban on buying new Petrol or Diesel cars in 2025. As for Australia they are a special case, do what they want or do not want but there must be plenty cars that are in cities and only in cities. Just like in Europe or the UK. Head for thinking, what a shame there are those about without the ability to use common sense or listen to those that work with stuff and know what they are talking about..

Just press the ´lens’ icon in the right bottom corner of the screen. If already in automatic zoom, it will display a sliding cursor which enables you to adjust the required scale. Then the ´lens’ icon will be replaced by a the selected scale. If in fixed zoom, press the ´scale´ icon to either adjust the scale with the sliding cursor or get back to ´auto´ zoom.

Guess they better ban high compression direct injection petrol engines. Particularly the turbo charged small ones. You might want to look at the compression ratios they run and how they too sail past what they claim. A diesel which correctly uses adblu will emit almost no NOx as it’s converted .

With exception of North Circular, I think a 30mph or faster EV with proper seats and doors will do very well in the city. I've seen a few G-wiz around the city back in the day. Second hand, of course, will always present batter value. But think of the cheapness when cars like Ami gets to good value age. I mean, it's only for school runs and all roads are 30mph or slower. The smaller the car the easier to nip around in traffic and park. Only problem is my wife want 5 seats in case she need to bus relatives around, less than once in a blue moon. So we got 2 regular sized car taking up space on the drive and roads. I know this specialise the car type of thinking isn't for everyone, including my dear wife.......

I'd sell a lung (other organs are available) for this car.

They would have had to knock the driveshaft through the hub with a soft mallet after removing the hub nut so could have disturbed something, I agree with the diagnosis, vibration on load and smoothing out on lift off points to inner joint/s.

Thanks Toot - that's exactly the info I was after as well as an insight into what lies ahead. I'd already have to make compromises on the XC60 over a Kodiaq, but you've just confirmed a PHEV Hybrid makes zero sense. Recently replaced a Karoq with a little Toyota self-charging hybrid and although it's not my cup of tea, the main driver is now seeing around a 15mpg increase over the 1.5tsi. Haven't gone in to the Volvo in any detail as yet so not sure how efficient the hybrid is, but I'm guessing that when the battery is depleated, it'll be a 2L petrol lugging around what is a heavy car ( 2.5 tonne I think ). So if electricity works out more expensive than petrol... 5HIT ! I think I can safely shelve the PHEV idea. thanks again.

This thread would suggest the fuse can't be moved.

Well, I don't even have that wee cubby-hole in the door, which is why I wondered. Anyway, as it happens, the nice young lady from the dealership rang me today on a follow-up to see if all was well with the car so I did mention the umbrella. Her response was that they don't always put them in the same place. Could be under a seat or in the boot. When I said there was nothing anywhere she replied that, if I call in next time I'm passing she will give me one as we do get far too much rain in this area so it should be quite essential. Wasn't that nice? :))

If it is "Skoda approved used", shouldnt any open TSBs against the car be applied before it could be sold with this status?

ZapMap & Plugshare are not always up to date on the Tariffs at chargers that you can pay with your CPS Account or other providers. http://chargeplacescotland.org Home standard tariff. @ 30 pence a kWh x 18 kWh = £5.40 Offpeak @ 7 pence. x 18 kWh = £1.26 Tesco Podpoint 7 kW AC charger is 44 pence a kWh Lidl Podpoint 7 kW AC is 40 pence a kWh. £7.20. A gallon of fuel is cheaper. Some public chargers, East or South Ayrshire & elsewhere Free or 16 - 41 pence. (41 pence Angus Council.) Charge Place Scotland if you want a Card and not just use the App is £12. http://chargeplacescotland.org/charge-point-tariffs Post Code Lottery as to tariffs but the Hybrid just needs on a 7 / 11 kW AC charger (Called Fast but not fast). Lower Tariffs usually compared to AC 43 or 50-150 DC Rapid charging. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, There are BP Pulse chargers like at Edinburgh City Park and rides, but these are Edinburgh City Tariffs on 50 kw Rapids and 55 pence a kWh. But then that is a max 1 hour charge time. Use CPS card or App, or Credit card or Debit card, more reliable. A Hybrid / PHEV or BEV can go on the 7 kW AC chargers for 12 hours and it is 35 pence a kWh. This is the same lots of places in Scotland, you are not paying the BP Pulse price but the provider / local authorities price so someplaces Free charging on 7 kW or 50 kW chargers.

The usual difference between left and right hand traffic is the third digit of the first group, even for right hand traffic and odd for left hand traffic.

sorry to tell you this, but the Vrs is in that other 10%

Some owners have already made the change, and are very pleased with the much improved comfort, better fuel consumption, less tyre noise, less unsprung weight, etc. The OP has pointed out that he isn't a racing driver and more of a cruiser. Unfortunately, many owners just don't realise how extreme some car manufacturers (including Skoda) are being in their choice of large diameter rims and rubber band tyres. One Superb MK3 owner changed down to 17" wheels and was so pleased with the improvement in ride comfort that he then changed to 16". Surprise, surprise, the ride on the 16" wheels was even better than the 17" wheels. In the 1960's there was huge development in car tyres. For example, the Jaguar E-Type went from cross-ply tyres when it first came out in 1961 to low profile 205/70R15 radial tyres in 1968. The entry level 215/60R16 tyres on the Superb MK3 would have been an absolute delight on this 144mph car, but they weren't available back then. Notice in the chart below that 205/70R15 and 215/60R16 have about the same outside diameter. Outside diameter of tyres 205/70R15 668mm 215/60R16 664.4mm Jaguar E-Type https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_E-Type#/media/File:Jaguar_E-Type_series_1_coupé_1964.jpg Superb MK3 280HP 4x4 fitted with slightly oversize 245/45R18 tyres

Thanks again CJJE, Chris. With regard to Skoda Connect ( thanks to Kenny R) and considering this car does 3500 miles a year mostly local I personally have decided not to sign up to this feature. No great benefit in my case.

First time ive seen Bentley wheels on a Superb. I like it!

Which is perfectly OK, one is void / invalidated because another is current. You have cover with one but not the other. The other was unnecessary, possibly mis-sold, or just buyer beware and never read the small print, maybe never got the small print in print. The beauty is that it is Skoda UK & 2 Scottish Motor Groups / Dealers and their full time jobs are cars sales and related servicing and customer services / financial services. So when you talk to them or actually Skoda / VW UK, be sure it is Skoda or Dealership Employees and not some contractor.

The thing is if sold a 2nd Warranty when you have a valid warranty, was someone Mis-selling' if that means you have no Warranty Cover. A question for the Warranty Providers, and the Seller, or their bosses. Mis-selling of a financial product.

They're trying to run rings around you clearly and take you for a ride. If they agree the problem was pre-existing they're caught by the statutory warranty provisions under consumer rights act. If it wasn't then one of the two warranty cover policies ought to cover it either by an override provision or both accepting a partial liability. I have never heard of an insurer saying because there is two policies that may cover it, then no cover applies. That make no sense. Perhaps the consumer right act is a clearer way to go, you'd have to prove the fault or the vulnerability was there from your purchase which would requie some indpendent engineering assessment. what is the actual fault in the TPI I couldn't find anything hits coming up on that? Probably rear main seal? Edit. found a russian TPI extract on 2051464/3 Translated from russian. Technical rationale The cause of this leakage is a thread defect (manufacturing) in the crankshaft cover for fastening the flywheel. As a result, an oil leak occurs, despite the sealing of the fastening bolts (see Fig. 2). An example in fig. 2 serves only as an aid in evaluating the establishment of an oil leak. In this case, oil leakage is caused by the formation of threads in the crankshaft cover. There is no leakage of the crankshaft cover itself (see Fig. 2, red oval)!

My thoughts are how did Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee part of the John Clark Group deal with things. (I know how HAWCO might. Sh!tes.) Was this Skoda Approved Used Car Serviced to Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines, Specification or even Schedule when SSC,s Dundee put that Warranty on it? Was the VAQ diff serviced @ 3 years or 30,000 miles, or before they sold it to you? Get the Master Tech at Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee to support your Warranty Claim. Maybe an issue is Hawco were doing the Service, work and not helping yu/ Talk with the Dealer Principal in Dundee if you are not already, and if necessary, a Senior Management / Director of John Clark Motor Group. All done in writing, as well as in person. PS Once you get this all sorted, go for a day to Maud, Aberdeenshire and have Victoria Garage (Skoda) service and maintain your car.

So are you saying that you have 2 warranties that should both cover this fault but neither will accept the claim because it is covered under another policy? And that you paid an extra premium to be shafted by them? Did they promote this extra warranty to you? It's exactly what insurance companies do so I should not be surprised that the warranty providers are onto the same scam.

Hello and welcome Sounds unreasonable to me. It's a known issue, with a TPI. You've been sold an 'approved used' car, which is now faulty. In my opinion, I'd think this is their problem, and not yours. If it was sold to you with a pre-existing fault, surely it's for the seller to take remedial action, or am I missing something? I had a completely unrelated issue with a 2015 vRS, which I bought new. The one thing I learned is that I should have consulted Consumer Direct/Trading Standards before I entered into any further dialogue with Skoda. I won't be making that mistake again - a word to the wise. Gaz

So braking wobble seems to be all but gone now. 🤞 Latest things done have been getting the sills, boot lid and front grille surround repainted and also replacing the EGR as it had been leaking for a little while. Boot and sills weren’t that bad but we thought we may as well get them done and grille surround needed doing as we had to get one off another car because i managed to break the original. 🫣

I found the answer with some deep digging. Normal seat set up, then without opening the door, take the key out of the ignition and press OPEN once. Once it bongs, you have swapped keys.

50 Strips of Self Adhesive 5g Weights - Black (tyrebaydirect.com)

A fault code does not mean that component is faulty and loading the parts cannon up instead of full and proper diagnosis will end up costing you more in the long run. There is also the risk that whatever code reader you have is giving red herrings and wrong fault codes. An o2 sensor will not be causing the faults you describe, it may be faulty but would need to be actually tested first, and don’t expect that to cure your faults. Was the crank sensor tested or just replaced? Was the pick-up ring checked for damage as it was possibly disturbed during the clutch change? have the readings been scoped to see if the engine is in time? has the timing been checked?

I think the answer is your question. The 280 is a keeper. Keep yours or order a new one before it’s not available anymore. 😜 In France, the 280 is already unavailable for months…😐

We're all different. I came from a diesel, so I wanted an engine that would give me lots of low down grunt, as I don't tend to hoon about much most of the time. Lots of low-down grunt tends to mean a big engine. In my Octavia, for 90% of my driving, the 1.5TSI would be a better choice than my 2.0TSI, given my love of economy and my tendency to potter around like an old man. (Actually I am an old man now, so even if I raced around, I'd still be driving like an old man, but YKWIM.) Here is some ooomph data. (Source https://www.automobile-catalog.com) which uses manufacturer's data. I pulled the data off the site myself to bung it into Excel so I could have a look at the power curves and help me choose an engine. Speaking of curves, I've also included the Ooomph curves for both engines from the data. (Edit: The highlighted portions of the data are peak Oomph zones.)

Lets us know what price you get quoted for a DQ381 and ask if they are going to change the filter? I think that is going to be a surprise for some taking in their car. Maybe a surprise for the Service Desk staff if you book online or get a quote and ask if that is a firm price, a Skoda Service & Maintenance fixed price. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488385-how-much-have-you-paid-for-dsg-service-dq380381-7-speed-wet-or-cambelt-change http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/482244-dq381-service-intervals

Because I know they are different, regardless of whether I can see them.