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Looking at the quick screenshot when he flips up the faults the dash shows, its mainly "low volt battery disconnection".....Basically the battery for the car electrics (like a ICE car battery) has loose terminals....many people still can't get their head around E.V. cars having two battery/electrical systems..one big one for the power (engine) & the rest of the car being like a like a conventional ICE car electrics/battery.... I recon like most recent ICE cars the batteries are under sized on amp/hr...& fail early...

A couple from this evening...........

Could be the main can gateway...anyway I wonder what this Tesla Dealer will say??......especially with all the yellow, amber & red weather warnings!!.....😂

Only the six speed VRS has a dual mass flywheel, everything else is single AFAIK.

@MTwedVRS I had been debating doing the same for a while and finally took the plunge going from a Mk3 TDI vRS to a 245 model, in part due to your thread! I’d been looking out for a Challenge model but I wasn’t keen on 19in wheels due to the roads I travel on, also not all came with the virtual cockpit. In the end I came across a well specced 245 car that included adaptive cruise, virtual cockpit, canton and keyless entry/start/stop. It looks like it’s been well looked and has recently had a set of Pilot Sports fitted all around. Averaging 38-42 on my commutes so far, can’t complain at that. The response and quietness over the diesel is like night and day. No real complaints so far other than me wanting a little more noise, maybe a Miltek resonated cat-back is in order. I’ll also be getting it booked in at my local for brake fluid change and aircon service as neither look to have been done since new.

No visible indication to the driver. You can go to the climate menu, settings and make sure auto recirculation is selected though.

Less trouble than maybe a little bit of premature tyre wear is less but not a lot less and hardly worth changing a vehicle over, the hassle of doing that and the chances of ending up with something that really is trouble far outweigh having the tracking checked and some new rubber. Keep a closer eye on the tyre tread depths and pressures, that advisory really should not have come as a surprise.

That was a Vauxhall Corsa Petrol powered.

I enjoyed the video, I wish I had such a river crossing near me. The Toymotors and Itchipussies showed the world how it should be done, some great mastery of the bow wave, some others not so good but the Jap 4x4's are so good they tolerated it. What was the (silver?) hatchback at around 8 minutes 30 that really looked like it shoudn't have got through but did? Crazy how some drivers just plunged in despite the depth markers and no doubt having seen all the 4x4's lined up to extract and the people filming.

Check out the MG4 at 2:10 😀

Got the little sod out. Had to fish around for a while, hooking out bits of O ring with an adapted paper clip. Glad the second one is green or I’m not sure I’d have spotted the remnants. Used a combo or torches, mirror (thanks @sepulchrave) and phone camera for the ability to zoom in. Ended up taking out both air hoses and the air filter housing (which was surprisingly easily to remove. Never had need before), and the battery. Disconnected one of the radiator coolant hoses and it was still a bugger to get to. @Breezy_Peteinvaluable info again, both about location and getting the connectors off. Watched videos, had a practice on more accessible ones and voila! That stage could easily have been where I got defeated without this intel. Massive thanks again to Briskoda’s finest.

No. It's likely to be one of the wiring, the stator (sensor) and the rotor (chopper disc). All 3 can be checked without use of the parts cannon. As, indeed, can the wheel bearing.

No, it won't be the sensor AND the bearing, it's more likely to be the wiring or the sensor, you can test both without replacing anything.

@ronniebarker£105 for spark plugs replaced at a dealership during a service is a thing of the past, add another £15 or more to that. @EnterNameHaving the Air Filter as a 6 year /60,000 replacement is taking the pith, and even more is those that do not even check it at services.

Got it! Call off the dogs! Many thanks for your input @Breezy_Pete Situation complicated by the original connector being smashed (not by me) and everything covered in an oily layer of perhaps contact adhesive. It's 'orrible.

Lifesaver, I am having that exact same issue so hopefully that's it. Will attempt to replace it and see how I get on.

150Nm + 180° in the official manual. Difficult without help on the counterhold tool.

The main story was not that it broke down, it was that he has had many faults with it and that Tesla seem unable to get him going again in a timely fashion. I keep hearing about how wonderful their service is. Its also about the other cars he has had with problems while in warranty and how the dealers were reluctant to look at the problems or to fix, which fits the story as told by John Cadogan that makers and indeed dealers will try and get away with doing nothing if they can.

2' 6" deep, They are mad

When I bought my used 21 plate MkIV the dealer provided a 'goody bag' in the boot which included the umbrella (actually quite good) and the ice scraper that lives the petrol flap (completely useless). I had no idea there was also a space for an umbrella in the passenger door (this would make sense given the cars are available as LHD and RHD come to think of it) Anyway, long story short I may now have to source an umbrella for the passenger door for Mrs Woodhouse to use 🙂

Same here. My missus just px’d her 70 plate Fabia which she had for 2 years which I drove regularly and the Kamiq seating is noticeably higher than the Fabia, and it isn’t on the highest setting. The drivers view of the road, side and rear is very good in my opinion. Ive owned all sorts of cars, from Audi to Peugeot to Ford etc but the Kamiq MC is head and shoulders better than all of them.

Same here. My missus just px’d her 70 plate Fabia which she had for 2 years which I drove regularly and the Kamiq seating is noticeably higher than the Fabia, and it isn’t on the highest setting. The drivers view of the road, side and rear is very good in my opinion. Ive owned all sorts of cars, from Audi to Peugeot to Ford etc but the Kamiq MC is head and shoulders better than all of them.

One of the wires in the rubber boot between the body and the hatch may have broken.

Thanks about your comment ! Yes, there is a possibility to adjust the regulator while bolting the arm to the rear axle. I hope, however, that I can fit the new one to the same marks that I do before removing the old one. I have had two Felicias before this one. In both cars the engine broke as they had about 300 000km behind. But they had been in bad homes This one has been treated well all its life, so I believe that though now driven 345 000km, it may reach even 400 000km, which is really good!

Oh, dear an unhappy Tesla Model Y owner in Scotland, he has a YouTube channel called "Just get a Tesla" as he thought they were great cars, maybe not so great now with a car that died overnight, and he has had a lot of other cars before, and it was very interesting to hear him say that the car manufacturers refusing to honour warranties etc. At the time this video went live on YouTube, it had been days and still not been fixed by Tesla so all is not well in the Tesla camp so just maybe there might be a grain of truth in the other Tesla video with the £17,000 bill for a replacement battery after all? WE shall have to wait and see if there is any further published developments on that front.

I had to change the hole alternator in the end. The bearings in the pully where noisy when spinning by hand. Then the regulator or brush pack had gone as well. I got a good deal in the end new alternator free postage and £85 with 3 year warranty. I think there a surcharge I might get £35 back just waiting on this.

My 272 and my previous 4x4 diesel has never had any issues with age. And mileage apart from the usual Maintenence stuff. Those mot advisories are nothing really don’t worry. As already said. Get the alignment checked properly from time to time and as for brakes you’ll probs find once discs and pads have been changed for aftermarket. Ate/brembo/zimmerman they be totally fine itll keep you right for many more miles so don’t panic

At least in the Nordics, it's caused by the eSIM changing between 3G and 4G. Once the operator handling Skoda's connections in your country shuts down their 3G network, the pop pop issue will most likely be gone. The problem has disappeared for me since the operator shut down their 3G network for good.

Had to get a new master as I damaged one of the threads on the old one, can't be helped. came with bolts to put into the bottom holes. Obviously they make the same master for ABS and Non ABS. Not a lover of it but if it works... And one of the brake lines under the car started weeping when I put pressure to it, so getting a flare tool and doing it next day. Put coolant to it and quickly lost it because of a dodgy O ring going into the heater box. Silly stuff. Got a box of O-Rings so that'll be done next day too. Really that's the worst of it now, all that's stopping me in my tracks. All things considered, it's not much. Oh and I've been trying to see about fitting some driving lamps I originally got for the justy to this. Best place will be to put it onto the bumper in the grille. Have to see how much room I'll have with the intercooler though.

Hello when are you getting more stickers made as the ones I'm after are saying out of stock ? Cheers

2, 3 get alignment checked, toe probably slightly out. 1 normal. 4 brake harder from time to time when no-one is close behind, should improve appearance of discs.

John he got into racing Nissan Primera's (plural) a few years ago now amongst other things. No idea if he sold it on or not but I think last I heard from him the Yeti was a keeper.

Sadly the battery (mis)management system will have undone all your good work in charging the battery, it will have allowed the vehicle's electrical running load to discharge the battery to around 80% SOC hence the alarm sounding after 18 days. A new battery may well increase the 18 days to ???, get the battery load tested if you can, if you know the car is going to be left you could charge it when its finally parked up, if it were me I would disconnect the shunt resistor and revert to a standard charging profile without the start/stop function, but then I hate that anyway!

I honestly can't remember now he had so many cars and modded many of them. The Yeti that was red turned race blue with CF doors and bonnet and a 2.5 TFSi from an Audi. Once a bit over 500Bhp then plans to make it around 700. I went on the track as a passenger when it was 500Bhp and that was quick enough. Then there was his CitiGo 4X4 conversion project which was sold for someone else ( Jabba or Darkside) to finish. Then he decided to buy all the Nissan Skylines.

I think he is 30 years behind the times with that notion, lets say it was my Yeti and the diff breather was submerged, the sudden cooling of the casing sucking in a good quantity of water plus that which would come in through the static head, several months later I present the car under warranty with a knackered diff, Skoda would quite rightly refute the repair due to water ingress, even if they didn't they would not repair the differential, its a specialist job, the parts are not available through VAG, aside from the time and cost they could not guarantee the repair as they could a new unit, nope it will be a bill of 4.5k plus labour to the customer. Hell the exact above has happened scores of times due to the incompetance of their own service technicians draining the diff instead of the Haldex unit yet that still does not get taken up by the media. If they are not going to repair something that every garage in the 50's and early 60's were capable of they certainly are not going to be messing with a high voltage battery pack swimming in corrosion even if the parts were available and they had certified technicians, the battery pack will be sold on to one of the specialist reconditioners but dependant on how long it remains wet even they are unlikely to be able to salvage much other than the casing, even that is dubious as electrolytic corrosion will have been having a field day. Anyone that says the battery pack should resist submersion is talking out of their backside, anything with service penetrations (cables, pipes, breathers, submarine propeller shafts) will leak to some degree, I designed military equipment which could be used outside in thunderstorm or resist a water cannon, far worse than a Tesla driving through a puddle (which of course was a porkie) but often the only way we could meet the submersion requirements (think falling off a raft during a river crossing etc) was to adapt specialised transit cases for the equipment made by other MOD suppliers.

For the CFWA 1.2 diesel (75hp?) I think it looks like this (could be mostly black also) And bolts into this plastic subassembly Which looks big enough to be bolted onto one end or other of the crankcase - the opposite side to the gearbox would be easiest to get to. Maybe wrong but that's my guess.

Not sure how the warranty has expired? My 70 Plate is under warranty until Nov, so 21 plate should be Mar next year.....

It is very difficult these days as you used to just start the engine and if you got 14.5(ish) you knew it was ok, but now when you see the voltages they go up and down, and I think you need to get a Multimeter to check things out like current draw when the car is turned off and what would help is do a drop test on the battery its self. and just as a matter of interest my voltage after it has been stud for a few hrs is 12.46 volts

You’re right that originally they were an ‘alternative’ to seat belts. you are right the drivers seat doesn’t have an occupancy sensor as - all going well, someone is sitting there when the vehicle is moving. airbags will do more damage without a seatbelt - imagine you tripped over and fell face first onto the ground, it’s going to hurt. Now imagine I said I was going to catch your fall with a baseball bat coming towards you, i think I’d rather fall on the floor. but I’m sure we can all agree, seat belts and airbags are safety critical and should be worn/used

What type of battery does your car have. If it is an AGM stop/start battery then you should be using the agm setting on your charger. Secondly are you connecting the -ve lead from the charger to the earth point on the bulkhead as per owner manual and not to the battery, as this can cause problems. I would unplug the usb wireless charger when not in use.

I foolishly signed up for a three service agreement with Skoda at a monthly cost of £30 for 24 months when my Karoq passed it 5yr point. This equates to £240 per service which is expensive for what they do but is the going rate for a main dealer. In theory this is fine however I didn't read the detail regarding spark plugs etc. Rather than pay an additional charge of £105 for the plug change, I ordered my own and changed them for about £50. I've attached a copy of the service plan Overview FPS 3 Services.pdf

Well I am narrow minded like every other person on this forum aside from yourself according to you. 15 seconds is more than enough to tell me about the person making the video, 2 seconds is enough when its an enthusiastic "HI GUYS!" to loud brash accompanying music. Just like scrolling down to see how long one of your tomes is going to endure.

@GrumpyOldGitSadly batteries are not always good for 3 or 4 weeks of no use on many modern cars, even in mild weather. So it is what it is.

^^^ 2020. This is 2021. we are @ 2023 now.

Interesting power lines on one of the Autobahns we were on the other week. My initial thought was they were for trolley busses but after a look online it's a test bed for powering electric trucks. This wasn't near Frankfurt but there's more here with a video. https://www.dw.com/en/germany-tests-first-ehighway-autobahn/a-48632817

Driving in those conditions and choosing to drive through floodwater are very different things. The owner is carefull to paint a story of innocence about his night out at a restaurant, if as he claims the garage claims the battery pack has been submerged its unlikely to have been that evening, the water ingress will have taken quite some while to corrode things to cause a breakdown, you could indeed float a Tesla (except it wouldn't as the cabin is not marine sealed) and have the battery powering the wheels, if you were to end up in a river the headlights for signalling and the window motors for egress would all work and mosts systems continue to do so after the vehicle is recovered but in time they would all fail unless dried out, corrosion removed and neutralised and the PCB's conformal coated (I think that was the term) I have experienced many that I have saved from water damage only to fail later on.

Please make sure you download the file named MOI3_EU_SK_R9410L MU1941_SK20230615S.7z.

Assuming they are the same sized tyre the answer is simple. The Bridgestone tyres had rim protection, the Continental's don't.

A replacement alternator is hundreds of times more likely to fail than you existing factory fitted one once fitted with a new brush pack/regulator although the reliability of those wont be as good as the original. My MK1 wore its brushes out after about 200K miles but in far fewer years so yours are probably worn/sticking, with a new brushpack/regulator it was still going strong at 325000 miles. Replacement alternators are poor quality compared to factory fit and always have been. You are lucky to have good access to yours judging by the photo, it will be easier to replace the brushpack/regulator than change the alternator.

I had exactly the same problem - droning at motorway speeds. Checked all the usual suspects - wheel bearings, driveshafts, tyres etc but found nothing wrong. I just happened to read somewhere about the condition of front brake disc rotors and it possibly causing the problem. Mine were very rusty so I cleaned off as much of the loose rust of as possible. I then took car out and did some heavy braking from speed (where safe to do so) to further clean up the rotor surface - problem sorted, no more droning.