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Assuming the turbo actuator was actually faulty, you now have a new one. Good. Mechanic is struggling to code/adapt it. An ECU doesn't just stop outputting like that. If you are having trouble getting signal to the actuator, it is more likely external to the ECU with cable damage from corrosion or animals. I would be tracing the wiring rather than messing with a new ECU. More often than not, faults like this are based on a simple issue like a hose or wire.

You’re being taken for a ride sorry! There is no way they can give a timescale of the life of the battery and also, the battery hose is only fitted on batteries mounted inside the cabin to prevent enclosed space gas build up, anything outside the cabin does not require a vent hose and is just an open hole.

Posting in the 'Cars For Sale' section could be a clue.

It removes the risk of it bursting and the expense that involves.

You really need to get the car scanned with something like VCDS, Carista or OBD11 to see which bulb is causing the problem. However as I own a MkII Octavia my money is on it being a faulty connection on one of the DRL bulbs. In my experience the brass plate that connects to the rear of the bulb wears through the solder and can cause a bulb out warning to trigger even though the bulb does light.

Another point, if the existing battery had been subjected to an event that caused claimed ejection of electrolyte, I very much doubt that the battery would pass a test as claimed. It would probably have bulged / shorted plates, and the loss of electrolyte alone would significantly reduce the available capacity.

Fingers crossed your after sales experience is better than mine. But to be fair, my poor experience was down to the guy on the desk. He was arguing semantics and refused to acknowledge he was wrong or could have done better. The rest of the experience, finance manager and the service manager were awesome. Shame that 1 guy and a car that may be a lemon has soured the experience. Once the dealer principle came out, he solved the loan car issue. Now fingers crossed they solve the actual issue of all the errors. Havent heard back from them today but I'll buzz em in the morning will loop back here with the outcome as apparently I'm the 1st ever to have had this issue.

That is a bit overkill for what’s required. OE wiring uses 0.5mm wire for runs up to and sometimes over 10 meters long at 10amp, a 0.5mm cable is more than sufficient for an amp or two from a dash cam. voltage drop in a day to day car is negligible and really doesn’t come into it much as the cable lengths are so short compared to housing or national power lines.

The explanation we had was that the BMC will charge the new battery to the same level as the old one. So the new battery starts its life by not being charged enough. Hence the shorter life it might have. So coding the battery to the car tells the BMC there is a new battery and it will charge it as a new battery. Thanks. AG Falco

The battery manufactures training we had. Thanks. AG Falco

Just a hole and you can see the fan/motor/workings. Underneath the passenger wiper blade/ left hand side. Thanks. AG Falco

With my estate iV now at 1000mls of driving over three weeks since delivery.. Running AC as a constant, driving in full electric largly on motorway it is returning 32/35 driving miles range before being depleted. Pretty much as I had hoped for tbh, if it marginally increases on that in warmer times then great, if it does not I wont loose any sleep! Am maninly charging during the day from the 3-pin charging cable as the wall mount 7kW charger we have typically has a Polestar or a Tesla plugged into it!! No idea how long it takes to charge from flat but its fully chargered by the time I leave for home each day. The commute home is full electric and then I have something like 2 to 5 miles of electric range remainig the next moring, but always in full hybrid mode with depleted battery by the time I plug back in at work the next morining. In sport it regenerates quite well I have found, in under 30 miles I can eaasily see the depleted battery rise to around 8% charge status, though of course you use a little more petrol driving that way.

Sounds like there is an issue with the backend somewhere which is causing the wrong data to be displayed. The fact you are being charged the correct amount shows you are receiving the correct amount and that they are controlling it correctly. I would report it as a bug and keep an eye on it.

So the day-by-day usage on my account (for all electricity) is significantly lower than the Charge Anytime app is showing. This is quite a relief!

Much better today. Free charge early today of 20 kWh, then 55 pence a kWh at Straiton Park and Ride which is huge and has just 1 rapid charger and one fast and that is 45 pence a kWh. I took pics this morning as nice background. Charge to 98 % and 3 miles down hill and at 100%. I need to go up again though. I will post pics later when on a computer. Lovely autumn 🍁 colours around. Temperatures not too low. Edinburgh park and ride and all no power since to the storms.

If it is not giving the voltage output, and frankly I am starting from a base that everything your mechanic claims is questionable, then you dont condemn the ECU and make up some fairy tale about a missing battery vent hose that never existed in the first place nor gravity defying expelled acid you look at what relevant inputs to the ECU are missing or implausible like the boost pressure sensor, MAF sensor, MAP sensor and many others. Does anyone know what this means? Is there an adaption procedure requiring a certain voltage or is it mechanics waffle? Coolant leakage which you have already spoken of I could see causing corrosion but they are quite capable of seizing on their own.

I suspect the default behaviour with a failed light sensor is DRLs on, which would mean you would need to get G397 fixed/replaced first.

The 1941 update is to the infotainment system only, so will have no effect on the powertrain. More likely is the colder wetter weather affecting the power drain (wipers, heater, etc.) and hence the range.

No, MOT will not calibrate matrix headlights. They can do a simple adjustment of low beam. Dealership should have special tools from VW to calibrate matrix. It doesn't sound good if they are taking car to the MOT to check. Thing is, that MOT can adjust headlights physical position of the beam, however calibration is needed to allign camera with LED segments, so they match. Basically system has to disable segment, that is lighting exact spot where camera sees other car's lights. And this is done both horizontally and vertically, as each horizontal segment consists of two (i think) vertical segments. So might be, that other car is in the middle, but lower segment is not disabled, as according to computer it doesn't have to be, where in fact it has to... Hope you understand my twisted and strange explanation

Thanks everyone for the advice. I think if I can get it coded for a small fee, I will. But if it's half the price of a Yuasa EFB to code I'll not bother as it will be more economical to accept a (supposed) slightly shorter battery life. @nta16My Fabia does have the slight clunks over bumps but only when the car is cold, and more so in cold weather. I have had this looked at by main dealers and independent specialists alike but they have said nothing is wrong, and it has not got any worse (or better) in 60k miles. Once I have driven a short distance it stops. I think (I am not an expert) it is the anti roll bar bushes. I think when the car is cold / not moved for a bit the ARB sticks in the bushes but after a couple of clunks frees up. That is the area of the car my noises seems to come from and both sides....

Just let the radio do its thing even if it asks you for a code, be patient and it will spring back into life after a while. I wasn't patient even though I knew better and tried all the numbers I could find handwritten on the handbook, eventually it locked out after too many incorrect code attempts, I kicked myself and sulked but it came back to life the next day. You might get fault code city on the dashboard, again dont panic, drive for about 25 yards and they will all go out. The one touch window operation will likely need resetting, I can never recall precisely how but I hold the button down for a while and it works afterwards.

It doesn't NEED coding but when I need a new battery on my Fabia III I WILL code it myself. Short term you wont notice anything but coding helps with the life of a battery long term. We fit many batteries a week and all stop/start, EFB, AGM batteries with a BCM unit are coded. If you keep a car long term and need a new battery the the bigger the better. It only needs to save you once and the extra was worth it. Some OE Moll batteries expired early although mine is still going strong after 7 years / 76K miles. Thanks. AG Falco

In that case, no battery adaptation required. I'd suggest trawling through the Mk2 section for advice on the radio code though.

It could be possible, just no one needs it. The electric stuff is not the final solution.

Hello and welcome HFB Gaz

@HyperDogsorry I've lost the knack of quick(-ish) searching on here. There are posts where some have said they done a like-for-like battery change without coding and the car and battery charging were fine after months / years of use (IIRC) - but I offer no evidence of this and I have a poor memory. 😀 Perhaps given that you know about b*ll*cks 'advice' from VW and Skoda UK (wished I'd seen about the lack of need for belt changing, £460 unnecessarily added to the local Dealership's turnover, about £1,000 for a mate's VW only earlier this year too) you may be able to accept the following linked post. If you have easy no-or-little-cost access to a suitable scanner then just changing a digit on the original serial number is all that's required to let the lord and masters VW cars' computers know a new battery has been fitted (see attached at bottom of this post). I think you're right not to trust VW /Skoda as far as you can draw fresh breath away from one their earlier diesel products. Battery coding post. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/#comment-5607340 Attachment. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf HTH. P.S. Does your Fabia have the slight clunk/knock over humps and occasional amber triangle-of-doom warnings when not required and tardy warnings when required?

Not sure in regards to radio code. Mk3, MIB 1 or 2 doesn't. AFAIK, keys will not be affected. If your Scout has auto stop-Start, it is recommended to have any replacement battery adapted to the vehicle, VCDS (or similar) required for this coding - there is a location map on this forum for members who can do this for beer tokens. New battery really should be adapted, even if replacement is same capacity and type.

Well done on keeping your battery so long. Loads of posts and threads on this site about if there's a need to 'code' on an identical battery change (same type, i.e. EFB for EFB or AGM for AGM, same (or near enough) Ah) and real life experiences. Short answer is some have found it not necessary. The VW coding numbers that the old batteries had new ones don't too. You can search for yourself and/or I'll put up some links to threads after I've had my/me dinner/tea.

As I understand it, the app is granted access to my Skoda Connect account, so can control when the car draws from the granny cable. I had assumed the car could therefore tell the app how much it had consumed for any given session.

You could pull 30 amps from a socket on a ring main although I'm sure the charger would limit the current to 3kw and be protected by a 13 amp fuse.

Max power from a 13A socket is 3kW so it can't have used more than 3kW x 5 hours = 15kWh so I'd suspect a problem with the electricity meter or, more likely, the app.

55 pence rapid. There is only one at the Park and Ride and 1 Fast charger. 45 pence a kWh. Pathetic really for the size of the place.

Whilst I agree with all that you say voltage drop is more significant the lower the supply voltage, cable sizes for 12v systems are far larger for a given length and volt drop than they would be for a 240vac system. Unless you are dealing with starter motor solenoid, headlights, air horn compressor, accessory sockets etc then 0.5mm csa is the order of the day.

Hello Leif, welcome to the forum. As far as I know, the DRLs do not have an option to turn off at the switch - they do switch over when the headlights are lit on my Mk3 Octavia. I'm surprised that your test requires them to be switched off ! Aren't yours required to be on at all times?

Update , split gearbox and short driveshaft , realigned /pushed together and bolted up then at the back of the gearbox tested again pushing the rod all the way and pressing it against clutch flex plate and it does full lenght now . So in the end engine and gearbox were missaligned , pushrod was going too far in and slave cylinder claw inside the gearbox was pressing in the gap groove . Clutch master cylinder fluid pressure was too high as a result and cracked under pressure . Hope this help anybody else who tries shortcuts like this , my advice , don’t.

@fencer - all good. i didn't remove the windscreen plastic cowl cover completely as i didn't want to remove the wiper arms. all i did was remove the rubber trim that goes across, and the black metal clips that hold it down to the engine bay. then i pried (pivoted) it upwards so i could access the strut top bolts. i didn't have to remove all 3 bolts on each side. just 2 out 3 bolts, per side, needs to b removed.

Heh, the failure itself could still be fun, but the resulting damage definitely won't be indeed. Don't worry, in case it wasn't clear: the wheel is off and left at the shop so they can mount the tyre as soon as it comes in and I only have to drop by to have the wheels swapped. Meanwhile I just have 1 errand to run to the neighbouring village, which should be fine even with 2 different brands and tyre geometries on the front axle. (Circumference has to be equal for the 2 though.

Totally unacceptable. Stick it out for a FOC loan car, or if they still resist gently let them know that 'A Current Affair' might be interested in your story. I suspect your dealer is the same one my car came from and is going to for its first service next week. Oh, how I hate dealers....

This could also be a symptom of a windscreen being replaced and the camera not being properly calibrated at that time, it happens...

Only if the electrolyte has boiled and then it would be mostly hydrogen, the labyrinth gallery system is intended to condense and drain back any acidic vapour, some also have Gore membranes. If it has vented then damage to the wiring and connectors as you suggest is much more plausible which is why I asked for the photo of the ECU connector. The next logical step would be the turbo actuator connector or is it one on a vacuum solenoid valve?

I am very much with J.R. here, a battery doesnt leak acid unless its cracked, boiling over due to over voltage. Even then, it wont spray out and cover things to the side and almost a foot away from it. Very weird that your mechanic is blaming 2 components on battery acid corrosion... Id be looking elsewhere for a mechanic who isnt just guessing. Basic checks need confirming; does the actuator move by hand? what is the resistance across the actuator controller whether electric or vacuum electric? any voltage to the actuator? is the boost sensor reading okay? is the turbo spinning freely? are there any boost leaks?

That could only result from failure of the alternator voltage regulator and would normally be witnessed by a bulging battery case. Me neither and there is nothing abnormal about the corrosion on the case, there is absolutely no reason to suspect ECU failure other than a lack of competence, there is no way that any battery electrolyte leakage, of which I doubt strongly, could have reached the ECU casing, what you should see in that case is severe corrosion of other plated steel or aluminium parts lower down if the battery has leaked especially the battery tray and clamp.

Thanks @AnnoyingPentium that's really kind. I have picked up a used o/s one today as a backup and I'll see how I get on my current one now those led sidelights have been changed, and my local breaker also has a MK1 with lights at the moment so I should be ok thanks.

I found a quick "in and out" rather than "side to side" works a lot better. Even after 13 months, I still struggle to get the knack right but others at home have the knack from day one....

Is it not the same action on all the VAG vehicles in and out not side to side

Replying to my own post - bad form - but Skoda Customer Services have just confirmed to me that as of July 1st 2023 VAG group wide has removed the time-based requirement on all cars completely and for my car the mileage interval is 140K!

I had the infamous sunroof leak suprise me about a month into purchasing my Yeti (only a couple of months ago). Luckily I purchased from a dealer so it was repaired under the warranty. Doesn't change the fact I now have a fresh anxiety kick in every time it lashes down with rain. As soon as the rain stops I'm straight out to check if there is any ingress into the car. So far so good, looks like the dealer has sorted it for now at least, but I still expect the worse that it will return in some form (sods law just after the dealer warranty expires). If it does leak again while under waranty I have told the dealer I will be returning the vehicle and will exchange it for one without the sunroof. A real shame that on such a fantastic car, Skoda dropped the ball on the most fundamental aspect of a version fitted with a sunroof ie. it being watertight. I saved both the pdf's I found on this in case I ever need them, I have added them here, all credit to the original creators. Because of my lack of faith that the leak won't come back at some point after the warranty expires, I have watched many videos on removing headliners to get an idea of what is involved. Although there aren't many videos specific to Yetis, I found the Tiguan videos (of which there are many, also the Jetta) to be a fairly similar process, enough to reassure me at least that it isn't as daunting as I at first thought. Between reading the attached pdfs and watching the following videos it seems fairly straightforward to just unclip the Yeti's sunroof control panel and then unscrew / remove it if need be. I hope they give you an idea at least. From 1.16 in this one ATB / Bazza Skoda Yeti Sunroof.pdf Yeti_Panoramic_Roof_Leak.pdf

The Vredestein Quatrac sometimes incorrectly called Quatrac 6 (although it can be useful calling it the Quatrac 6 for clarity, so I will use the Quatrac 6 name) replaces the Quatrac 5, although 13" and 14" tyre sizes and the odd 15" tyre size are still only available in the older Quatrac 5 model. The Quatrac Pro and the recently introduced Quatrac Pro+ models are a more summer focused tyre that tend to be available in larger 17" and larger tyre sizes. The Vredestrein Quatrac 6 is only available in 15" and 16" tyre sizes, except for two 17" tyre sizes...namely 225/45R17 and 225/50R17. The Quatrac 5 and Quatrac 6 tend to have longer tread life than the Quatrac Pro and Quatrac Pro+ models. There's also a Quatrac Pro EV for electric cars...apparently the first all-season tyre fully dedicated to electric vehicles. The Vredestein website is useful for looking up what sizes these tyres are available in, and which models have rim protection. I'm not a fan of rim protection because I tend to protect my rims by using relatively narrow rims. With rim protection build into the tyre, you can get chunks of rubber broken off the tyre because the rim protection doesn't give like a bulging sidewall gives when you sometimes gently nudge the kerb while parking. Out of all these Quatrac models, only the Quatrac 6 is a directional tyre. Vredestein website https://www.vredestein.co.uk/car-suv-tyres/

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/fel/101

E0A 1D0 5SJ 5RV 1KJ 6FB 1AT 3FA 1N3 1NL H7D 4UP B09 3QT 4X3 4A3 8ZF J0L QI6 8GU 6Y0 9AK 8RM 7T6 8AY 8QL 8X1 4F2 B09 7MG QN0 3L6 9P3 Q2J 7X1 9ZG 8WD 7A0 3GG 7AL G15 L30 7P1 F0A 3S9 2UA E0A = No special edition 1D0 = Without trailer hitch 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex 5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical 1KJ = Disc brakes, rear 6FB = Body-colored exterior mirror housings 1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP) 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof) 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) 1NL = Covers for alloy wheels H7D = Tires 225/40 R18 92Y xl 4UP = Drivers and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag 4A3 = Seat heater for front seats separately controlled 8ZF = Inside side window antenna J0L = Battery 340 A (70 Ah) QI6 = Service indicator 30,000 km or 2 year ( variable ) 8GU = Alternator 140 A 6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system 9AK = Climatronic with impact pressure control free of cfc 8RM = 8 speakers (passive) 7T6 = Navigation system (MID) 8AY = Radio/navigation system 8QL = Key for locking system with remote control 8X1 = Headlight washer system 4F2 = Central locking system "Keyless Entry" B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 7MG = Emission standard EU5 QN0 = Without drawers under front seats 3L6 = Electric seat adjustment for both front seats, drivers seat with memory system 9P3 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle Q2J = Comfort front seats 7X1 = Park distance control 9ZG = Mobile phone preparation with hands-freespeaking system 8WD = Integrated front fog light 7A0 = Without CD changer/CD player 3GG = Plane rear cargo area 7AL = Anti-theft alarm system, passenger compartment control, backup horn and towing protection G15 = Front shock absorption L30 = Suspension range 30 installation control only, no requirement forecast 7P1 = Power adjustable lumbar support in frontseats F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 3S9 = Roof rails 2UA = Standard design VW Codes Decoder http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Front springs (1) 1K0 411 105 BP coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark also marked with: 2 paint marks 1 paint mark red white red orange white 2 PR-L30 Front shock absorbers G15 (8) 3C0 413 031 AS gas shock absorber 2 PR-G15 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2012-632/4/411-411001/