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Hello Peeps, I've been away for a bit. When I sold my Scout last year, I was extremely sad. Loved that car, but I was working from home - it would have killed that car dead running 5 miles here and there. Circumstances have changed and I needed new wheels. I've found a LOVELY fully spec'd finally last gasp Octavia MK3.5 L&K in White that I am picking up next week (collection caper alert). In the meantime, the family run-around went from a 2017 Fabia to a 2020 MK7.5 Golf Match 1.0l in White (last gasp of the great Golf IMHO - one of the last imported from Wolfsberg). So - sticking with this theme, I will own two white cars....in a country (Scotland) that has a propensity for snow. Sounds all v.sensible to me. See you online folks. Varaderoguy

I've played around with photplop and come up with some different treatments of similar shots

I've been wanting to take a good pic for the last few weeks and going to the same place on the way home from work. Finally on Friday the perfect conditions happened. I meant to stick a camera and tripod in the car in case, but kept forgetting, so pic took with my phone. I thought it turned out quite well. 😎 Image not edited, apart from a slight crop. I can't remember if phone was set to 'sunset mode' or not as took many pics using auto and manual modes. Dec 15 Fri, 4:03 PM GMT Motorola Moto g(8) power ƒ/1.7 1/ 33 sec 4.05mm ISO436

I think the regulator for that alt has genuine part number 06F903803B. That may help you to cross-reference it to a Bosch part number.

The file name has enhanced in it, as I ran it through a noise filter and it's added at export (just in case anyone wondered).

#3 ❤️

We all know that bridge is really in Arizona now

I'd have waited until the four year anniversary (tomorrow) before replying. Just sayin'

Why indeed. So much of what is built into these cars is useless and when it goes wrong causes no end of trouble with what you'd think were completely unrelated items. That said, without them this forum may not need to exist.

You don't need to change the system. Just get the necessary updates & hardware (if necessary) done. Mucking around fitting 3rd party hardware can cause unnecessary stress and later problems with resale values.

Answer: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/175069-automotive-window-glass-codes.html According to this post it's the year of manufacture... (label 7)

It turns out that it was a small blob of grease that had flicked up on to the servo body from a previously leaking CV joint boot. The position of it right at the mating point between the MC and servo made me jump to the conclusion of a leaky MC. I'm glad I double checked and hadn't ordered any parts. You can still see some evidence of the old leaking CV boot on the front subframe in the original photo, which I'm yet to clean up.

I don't mind a drink, and it seems my car doesn't either - I'm not partial to brake fluid though... I've just kept topping it up, but 500ml in less than three weeks is a bit startling. Took it to be diagnosed. "Clutch slave cylinder mate, and I'd be doing the clutch while I'm in there too" Well, okay then. HOWEVER, Genuine GM clutch kit incl. slave cylinder? £106.38. You dancer. Parts aren't too bad to get for this, somehow easier than the Skoda! Got a pair of rear shock absorbers from EuroCarParts for £9.19 a side (the originals sound like an accordion falling down a flight of stairs) so that'll be sorted too. Beyond that, it's running well, 31k miles now. Anyone who has me on Facebook will know the welding has been done as well, and to a high standard. Very happy with this car, despite a few "quirks".

Sorry to say but not the case. The way the current monitor works is it monitors the return path to the battery. You can put the negative of a charger wherever you want on the car as long as its NOT the negative battery terminal. (and the location is rated for the correct current draw of course). Anywhere but the negative battery terminal is after the current monitor - including cigarette lighter, engine block and such. The positive can go on any direct connection the positive side of the battery so the 12v socket is acceptable for this.

i agree, it looks almost edibly good in that shot..

I stuck the rest on Filckr https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjB7fC8

Cheers for that, not as bad as I was expecting 😂

I spent part of this afternoon in the local turner's shop where Derek modified a DSLR lens support for me before he skimmed this Suzuki cylinder head.

Possibly the prolonged cranking before start, caused by the faulty sensor, was pulling the battery voltage low enough to trigger the other fault indications. Glad you got it solved.

Hi guys it’s sorted. it was the crank sensor. I can’t believe it caused the car to have multiple failures such as park distance, radar and cruise etc. Crank sensor from tps and it’s sorted for anyone else experiencing this fault in the future. Did 71 miles this evening on some b roads through Leicestershire, Stamford, Peterborough, Corby and back to Oadby. Didn’t cut out once and drove perfect. Thanks to those who helped👍🏻

Will do

I don't even understand why it's saying that.

@varaderoguy The sealed for life DQ200 is not difficult to change the 2 oils in them. & no more difficult than a DQ250 or a DQ381. As to not leaving in D with foot on brake pedal it does no harm. You are trooping out some right nonsense that you are gathering from various sources. The DQ200,s had and have issues, as far as changing the filled for life oil, well the World Wide Recall in 2012 had millions get the synthetic changed to mineral and the software update, and then when eventually the Service Campaign started in Europe in 2014 there were tens of thousands done just the same. '34F7' As to 2013-2015, there were thousands that were in for the Workshop action '34H5' and the software update. The DQ200,s since 2009 have been used with many engines with up to 250 Nm and 192 ps. 1.2,1.4 TSI / TFSI & 1.4 TSI /TFSI twinchargers 132-136 kW 1.8 TSI up to 192 ps & 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6 TDI,s and then the 1.5 TSI,s.

I think the predictive ACC + TSR can be useful on motorways with variable speed limits etc. For ordinary driving I find it "interesting" because it wants to accelerate to the speed limit - say 60mph on a country road - when you come out of say a 30 limit (even if you had previously set 50) and whilst it does then slow down for corners etc, it takes them at a fairly sporty speed! It also slows right down for roundabouts but of course it doesn't know if there is anything coming - it just keeps on going! So I would say "great giimmick, but not really usable as auto-driving - except on motorways or when there are cars in front. I suspect that the torque on the steering wheel and how soon it intervenes is something that can be adjusted with VCDS so I'll give that a go at some point. We are also shortly to embark on a long motorway journey so that will be a better test of the lane assist - up til now I've mostly been driving on single carriageway A roads.

I SO own most of the Autoglym product range......I know....its was like a card that my father sent to all his friends one year....its said. "Picture of a snowman in a whiteout - Merry Christmas" - completely blank card....genius!

Owning two white estates in Scotland..in winter....have you taken out shares in a detailing company???.....😂

Of course. It’s Wheelbase in Hersham. The owner, Colin Marshall is a knowledgeable and very nice guy. They have all the OE diagnostic kit and full access to VAG service, so they can update your service record. I first used them in 2010 when our MKI Superb PD140 blew its oil pump and I had it towed there by the RAC. Colin said it was a known design fault with the PD140 engine and he was sure that an authorised dealer could get full parts contribution from Skoda. He used a local guy for recovery, got me a great price to take it to my then dealer, Ridgeway in Reading. They did get full parts contribution (around £4k) and part contribution on labour. I had to pay £700. I say all this to show Colin is a straight up and down guy. They have free courtesy cars and normally short advance bookings. They are cheaper than main dealers too.

The Mk4 roof rails are flush to the car roof, if I am not mistaken the MK3 roof rails are raised? If that's the case you would certainly need new mounting / footing attachments. You can run your car registration or enter your car model on most roof bar re-sellers and you should be able to see the difference in parts that way? https://www.driveden.com/

I have read both the Skoda Octavia manual and the Kia Picanto manual for details of battery charging. For the Skoda it is , naturally as the advice here. The Kia manual insists that the battery must be removed first. Impractical and onerous. I'll stick with the battery jump pack when necessary. As I said before, connection of a charger sets off the alarm.

That was 3 years ago. My colleagues worked in the UK for 15+ years.

Do both, then try tightening them slightly before loosening to break adhesion in the thread, if it's stiff, work it back and forth with some more WD. You can test the glowplugs using a multimeter set to the Ohms scale, that way you'll only replace the ones that don't work.

Have you heard the saying what came first The chicken or the egg. Loose camshaft pulley bolts could easily have caused the oil seal to leak A bolt when set to the correct torque does not suffer wear and tear, so what is your explanation as to why it became loose ? seriously. The cambelt hype is duley noted

I have a routine in my car, start it then say “turn that fu&@“?! off” and press the stop/start button. Then if I’m in properly standstill traffic I say something expletive and turn it back on

If mine ever gives up the ghost, expect a PM...😆

Both great picks

I didn't say it wasn't possible, I said it was very EXPENSIVE, such an engine could cost 10,000 euro quite easily. Group A rules are very strict but the engine internals are all forged, special clutches and flywheels and gearboxes with LSD are allowed and such an engine would turn at least 8000 RPM to make 160 bhp. Chucking a pair of fast road cams in a standard engine with a silly air filter and a remap will NOT give you a 40% increase, so no, I don't believe the ABT figure. @fabdavravclaimed a 20% increase from a silly air filter and some magic plugs and leads! Crazy.

I can assure you that naturally aspirated car engines making 100 bhp per litre are rare and use variable cam timing strategies and/or variable volume intakes to make them tractable at lower RPM due to the very high state of tune, most of them make peak power at close to 8000 rpm, they use ITB's and are VERY expensive to build due to needing completely forged internals. I've personally seen a 1.6 litre Peugeot TU5JP4 making over 200bhp on an engine Dyno at 8800 rpm, however such an engine would be unusable in a road car since it would stall at every red traffic light. We're talking about engines from Porsche, Honda, Ferrari, BMW etc. I repeat, there is no way to get a lowly AUB lump to such a state of tune without going all in on head mods, cams, ITB's and a custom exhaust manifold and system, you'd also need forged Conrods and pistons since the stock items would not last long at 7500 rpm, which is what you'll need to be spinning to make 150 bhp. Put crudely, a 50% increase in power requires the engine to pump 50% more air, so that 1.4 will need to pump like a 2.1. This isn't rocket science but it is expensive and tuning companies tend to exaggerate to make sales.

My Ctek charger takes 7hrs to do my 70Ah battery...😬....when its low...& by that time the charger cables & battery are nice & warm!!.....I wouldn't like to see that heat in the 12v socket & the wires from the centre console back to the Battery..!!!...😬

Ciao. Don’t be too impressed that’s the extent of my Italian 😏

I am a complete Numpty! Just went out I tried it again and there is a very faint clicking of a ratchet and that works and can now raise the height. Sometimes the simplest of things stare you straight in the face - the apparent obvious I had completely overlooked.

Photo from by above mentioned thread....bottom right...you always (for cars with stop/start) connect the positive "+" wire of the charger to the "+" on the battery....& then the negative "-" wire of the charger to the bayonet fitting "-" on the bulkhead... Forget using the 12v sockets/cigarette lighter sockets on these cars with stop/start...

Depending on what the BMS thinks the battery state of charge is the voltage at idle or when driving can be anywhere between about 12V and 14.5V

Be aware that some Halfrauds branches are apparently unable - or unaware of the necessity to do a battery adaptation when fitting a new battery.

Mine also does it, but I'm waiting for it to stop raining before investigating - should be around late March next year.

What do you mean by voltage is showing low in local use?

Either type will do, EFB is cheaper, AGM is supposed to be superior and last longer - but is considerably more expensive. Be aware that you will need to adapt a new battery into the BCM, particularly if you change from one type to the other. Do you know if this was done correctly when the battery was replaced under warranty? That AGM really should have lasted longer than that.

Lovely afternoon, so I went out for a 20 mile bike ride. Went past the Long Man of Wilmington, who was in the shade, but could still be seen easily: Gaz

I've not been swimming since March 2020, i.e. just before the Lockdown!.....& I used to go every week. Mind you I have been swimming in the sea (Moray Firth) during the warmer months.... However, I called it quits in October last year with the water temp at +12C ...& thats with a very thin triathlon wetsuit...😬 Have felt my general fitness & flexibility has deteriorated as a result as its the longest I've even not been regular pool swimming in my life!!...... P.S. when I say swim (pool or sea) I mean swim..not "paddle".....The least I do in a pool is when I'm really tired & thats 60 lengths of a 25m pool.....sea swim the least I did was 20mins as it was very choppy with at least a 3ft swell! Usually I do 70-80 lengths in 50-55mins of the 25m pool (used to do 100-110 lengths in 60mins, upto about 12yrs ago) & 45mins to 60mins up to 2.5km in the sea... Yeah, I'm a Fish..😉..was in a pool before I could walk!!..