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The Pass of Glencoe with two out of Three Sisters on the left, November 2023. That's not sky replacement software, either. We were fortunate to have 3 concurrent days just like this: twas freezing cold out of the sun though!

Just got my insurance renewal through from Privilege and despite having full protected NCB or 9+ years & admittedly one accident claim + two windscreens (stones/cracks) they hiked the premium from £452 to £1,118! So I used Martin Lewis' website and went through there and with the above, and got Full legal, guaranteed hire car, windscreen cover, foreign use etc, I got a quote from Aviva (with a £300 XS) of £568. A Whopping 65.25% saving by NOT auto renewing! 😲 So shop around.

Glorious here this afternoon - mustn't grumble given its the middle of winter 😁

^^^ @StonekeeperAppearances can deceive. They are sealed as in there are filler plugs and drain plugs and the oil can be changed in the box and in the MCU. (Some might charge to change the oil and not change the oil in the MCU) Millions had the Synthetic Oil changed to Mineral when there was a World Wide / GLOBAL recall in 2012 that excluded Europe. *Internal corrosion, fuse blowing, loss of drive, VW said roll safely to road side. Sure thing in an outside lane of a motorway with HGV,s inside you.* Not required in Europe as seemingly different weather / moisture / HUMIDITY, even from NZ where all DQ200,s got a brand new MCU. They lie so easily. In Europe it became a Service Campaign 34F7 and tens on thousands had the oil changed and a software update. Started in 2014. So as far as sealed for life, who's life, the cars or the DSG,s. and when it looks like end of life might you change the oil? Plenty vids on how to change the oil if anyone wants or needs to, and even guides in Threads / Posts on Briskoda a forum for Skoda enthusiasts.

Ta, so check engine bay fuse no. 14 (10 Amp), which supplies the coil of that relay amongst other things. Then cabin fuse no.49 (25 amp) which is power that the relay switches to the fuel pump. If both of those are OK it may be that the engine ECU isn't grounding the other side of the relay coil 'cos it's unhappy with something.

A bit of confusion here i think. Is it a case of being in ECO and the DSG going into 'Coasting' mode as in disengaging from gear and going from D7 to D, or D6 to D? Doing as it should be doing. Do not shift the selector out of D. If you want it back in gear you touch the accelerator or the brake pedal. If you do not want the DSG 'Coasting' ten disable it. You can select coasting. Best read the owners manual for the Octavia or do a search on a Search engine. briskoda coasting. Not all generations or models do it the same, not all have ECO.

Every day is indeed a school day I thought my Nextbase 222X had Parking Mode but I could only find a setting for the G Sensor in Settings. After some more searching and fettling I discovered earlier today that you need to press the Menu button twice to access a separate set of feature settings. One of which is, you've guessed it, Parking Mode. Enabled it. Turned off ignition. Waited 5 minutes (the period it states in the manual that it will go on to Standby if no movement detected) Bingo!!! Don't need the IfTTT work round now but handy to know I have that as a back up if required. I also don't need to buy and fit a hard-wiring kit. Double bonus

What a load of rubbish, below are the terms requiring ADAS calibration whether thats radar, camera, areaview, blind spot detection. None of which cover a small dent to a panel.

At the moment he has paid for the recovery (a sign of guilt I would say) other than that it needs to be fixed and if at fault charged to the audio guy.

You can also pressure test the intercooler directly ,is very concludent. Don't focus too much on testing the entire system at expansion tank...in many cases with a cold engine will hold pressure (1.2bar) over night and shows nothing. My bet is on one of theese two ,egr cooler or intercooler One more important thing...after each intervention the cooling system is very very hard to propperly bleed.In my case after replacing the egr cooler and bled with VCDS it took 10 days to settle the coolant level.I added every 2 days 100-150ml.I thought I had another leak but no

Fine chaps Happy New year and thanks for the help guys ! Special thanks to Colin and the Admins for putting up with t#### who write click bait titles 😆

Stunning 👌 The last time I drove through there (in my sadly missed Shark mapped Yeti) it was the early hours and I came across a family of Deer right by the road.

WTF, 87p a KWh, surely to god if EV's are to be the motive power of the future that pricing model has to get to be stamped out, even the Tesla and Porsche system is totally unfair. If liquid fuel had such a massive price swing there would be regulators crawling all over the system. Yes, before anybody says it, I know that there are loyalty cards for some brands of liquid fuels, but they only offer about 1p a litre discount, back at some point in the future, if and only if you have accumulated enough points to earn £5 at a time back so everybody pays the same price at the pump.

And the Aonach Eagach Ridge on the right.

Yes, those pressures are much too low, the head needs refurbishment. I may have told you this a while ago...

Hello. I installed everything and everything works.

Thanks. In those images it just looks silver to my eyes, on my monitor. 😄 As the Octavia III forum seems a lot busier you may get more and quicker replies there to your question but as it's a general subject it applies here or elsewhere too (and I've clicked or posted in other forums by mistake, a few times, sometimes replying to the wrong posts too). Each to their own but personally, with a big, heavy modern car with oversized wheels and tyres, all the padding and electric motors (as they all are) I'd not get too over concerned about fuel saving to an nth degree, particularly when the car only normally has one or two people occupying it in use and/or going at or just below whatever speed limit at the time and/or using all kinds of electric gadgets available. If you want to you can add your location, the TDi engine size and code, body style, DSG (type/number of gears?), year to your sidebar thingy so some can see that info at each post you make, as example only mine below.

Location 1b houses what's described as 'fuel pump encoder'.

I think that's exactly what I'm looking for! will check it out when I'm in the car later. Thanks for your help!

I had something like that, together with brake assist and hill climb assist errors. On top of that on a few occasions while maneuvering, car was stopping very abruptly and was wobbling after the stop. My suspicion was something was wrong with ABS sensors. However, in workshop they found nothing and issue was gone by itself. So go figure what was that. Maybe indeed that was an ABS sensor and it was just dirty, so issue resolved after a few washes...

System voltage (as opposed to battery resting voltage) will be at 13.7v plus within two seconds of starting the engine, only the electric power steering pump current is capable of dropping that voltage and then only if the battery is flat and in conjunction with heated rear screen, lights, heater fan etc etc.

Rishi was asked in parliament about the different levels of vat for domestic and public chargers, by one of his own MPs, and he did not even asked the question the spineless toad. A disgrace. Invent a new vat rate. Now we are not in the EU we can do what we like. Down to 10% would be a start for public charging. Tesla will destroy most competition soon probably. Maybe 20% vat on gas or a carbon tax.

It will only show generic OBD codes, primarily emissions and safety systems, it cannot communicate with the individual modules. I second your diagnosis of immobiliser but cannot suggest why, when you say will not start do you mean will not crank? If so then carry on down the battery path. I believe if the immobiliser does not recognise the key chip (and your spare may well be lacking it) then the engine will fire but stop immediately, that is assuming you have the battery power to crank the engine. Did you check the battery voltage after charging?

Welcome... Short answer: yes, nearly all of the time. Longer answer: it will depend on the journeys and load you carry. Mine is a 1.5TSI, had a loan 1.0 e-tec for 5 months a couple of years back. The 1.0 was fine for the vast majority of the time, long motorways were a surprise, it managed them well and with good economy - but that was with two up a weekend luggage. However I reckon I would have felt it on those long runs were there four of us and a boot fully loaded. The 1.0 is surprisingly flexible too so should be OK on the hilly roads of the South West. Definitely worth a test drive...

XL / Extra Load, means reinforced sidewalls. Check the same Speed / Load rated tyres and see ones that are XL and ones that are not.

I have had my SEL for a few days. When it was in the showroom ready to be picked up, I got in it and it showed 35 miles (temp on dash was 17 degrees - it was a warm showroom). Last night, not sure of the temperature, but on full charge it was showing 31. Not been anywhere, but have played with some settings (pre heat) and now at 11.00 it is 7 degrees out and on full charge it shows 34. I am sure the published range is actually supposed to be KM!! To be honest, so long as I can get 20 from a charge, that is going to be about the most I will do without doing a long journey which would require the engine running. Today I am doing a 28 mile round trip with 5 in the car. Wonder at what point the battery will run out.

Maybe this can help?

Hello Billy Welcome to Brisky. Gaz

Fuse 21 (10A) feeds the brake light switch (NO) for the lamps, on a red/black wire, pin 1 of connector at switch. Feed to bulbs is the black/red on pin 4. This black/red from the downstream side of the NO switch also connects to inputs of ABS module and engine ECU. Fuse 32 (5A) feeds the brake pedal switch (NC), for the engine ECU's info on 'pedal-pressed', on a thinner blue/red wire at pin 2. Connection to engine ECU is via the black/green wire on pin 3. NO = Normally Open (no connection when foot off pedal) NC = Normally Closed (always connected except when pedal is pressed)

Sounds like urs is not setup up right. The Bi-xenons on the mk3 Superb r great, if aligned/setup correctly. The SLA is great too. Here is mine in action. All I've changed is the D3S globes to Phillips XtremeVision Gen2. And another......

@6nations 215 / 50 R18 size, if you want grip all year, wet or dry, even frost and sleet then go for all seasons, not summer Eco spec which it was delivered with. pick any of following (no particular order, but availability timescale or price might determine it anyway) Bridgestone Turanza all season 6 Continental all season contact 2 Goodyear vector 4season gen3 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Michelin cross climate 2 SUV The Bridgestone Eco is aimed at (heavier) electric vehicles which is why it has the higher 96 load rating. Vast majority of 21/50 R18 have 92 load index. Other spec Karoq (even with heavy diesel engine) have 92 load rating, so don't think you need the 96 rated tyres

Some or many have the Oil changed because someone at a Dealership wrongly tells them they are due a change. Personally i might change both the oils after 8 years or 100,000 miles or so, but it should not be necessary.

Just collected new Karoq 1.5 TSi SEL today, it replaced a 1.0 TSi SE Karoq. Heated steering wheel great, ( I am in my seventies and have circulation problems,} heated windscreen brilliant. Instrument display AWFUL compared to my 69 reg Karoq.

With so many issues and so many parts replaced in the last 6 months, I would stop sinking money into this car, get what you can selling it "as seen", to a scrapdealer or as a trade-in for another. I would also look for a different garage with the new car or take a service agreement/ extended warranty to cover any problems...

@6nations it is the 96W that is the issue. Lots of choice in 92V XL in that size. @Carlstonwill know if you have to stay with 96W XL As to your hopeless below 18 degrees C (UK) do you mean below 8*oC or really mean pretty much the temp that much of the UK is at or lower much of the yea? Goodyear Eagle F1 are a tyre pretty much like slicks when it is damp even in warm weather.

Most of us splash and dash with EVs also, all i have ever done on expensive on route chargers and the use destination, visit or breakfast, lunch or dinner place chargers so very little actual having to stop to only charge. If in a real press then can eat my Ginsters on the move and drink my red bull but I try and avoid such driving pressures these days. Much rather drive in the evening, get a hotel, charge at hotel, destination or food, rest stops. EV manufacturers are rolling out 1000 km range car now and tech is improving some 10% per year whereas pure ice is going backwards with adblu systems adding cost and weight. ID4, like the Skoda EV, are not the best EVs in class hence VAG giving up for a while on EVs.

I didn't know what ADAS was so I googled it. Seems Chips Away have form for this 🤣

Agree, not at every start up but still a nuisance.

Frost on the Yeti's bonnet on Boxing Day.

Or if you need something big

I spent part of this afternoon in the local turner's shop where Derek modified a DSLR lens support for me before he skimmed this Suzuki cylinder head.

I don't mind a drink, and it seems my car doesn't either - I'm not partial to brake fluid though... I've just kept topping it up, but 500ml in less than three weeks is a bit startling. Took it to be diagnosed. "Clutch slave cylinder mate, and I'd be doing the clutch while I'm in there too" Well, okay then. HOWEVER, Genuine GM clutch kit incl. slave cylinder? £106.38. You dancer. Parts aren't too bad to get for this, somehow easier than the Skoda! Got a pair of rear shock absorbers from EuroCarParts for £9.19 a side (the originals sound like an accordion falling down a flight of stairs) so that'll be sorted too. Beyond that, it's running well, 31k miles now. Anyone who has me on Facebook will know the welding has been done as well, and to a high standard. Very happy with this car, despite a few "quirks".

Looks like I caught a Geminid last night 🌟 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geminids PXL_20231213_202709064.NIGHT.mp4

I took the tripod this evening - such a clear sky ✨️ PXL_20231213_202709064.NIGHT.mp4 PXL_20231213_202143682.NIGHT.mp4

Almost three weeks since the updates applied to the car and it's all been working perfectly well - the difference between before and after is like night and day. If it remains this way I am now very happy.

The frustration here is that I think it's safe to assume that most early Octavias are all suffering from this issue. Some people won't have noticed, some won't care, and others are using the left side control to use climate sync. So, if they know it's a problem why not just push it OTA rather than waiting for customers to book a service visit for it? When you book a visit the car then has to be investigated, details sent off to Skoda Technical, and the dealer wait for a resolution to come back. All this is just wasting the customer and dealers time... when they could push the update OTA and save everyone time.

I have Mk1 eyeballs that didn't need to be paid £65 to be activated.

They don't appear to proof read their brochures.

Interior - The following weekend the interior had to get the same attention as the exterior. Car was fully vac'd out, every plastic surface thoroughly cleaned to get any old residues off and leather cleaned. The steering wheel was quite grubby All the fabric and carpets were given a good clean then sealed with carbon collective fabric sealant. Dash finished off with a nice matte dressing (coz who likes a shiny dash) and finally the glass was all given a good deep clean. If you haven't already guessed it, yes I'm quite keen on Detailing 🙃