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Well the weather wasn't too bad today so I got it done in 10 mins. As it turned out my coolant reservoir wasn't the double chamber one I thought it was & I might have been able to fish the silica bag out without changing the reservoir. That said there was always a chance of the bag splitting whilst trying to fish it out so in the end I just swapped the old for the new & topped it back up with the coolant I syphoned out. I'll take it for a run tomorrow to make sure there are no leaks & make a note to tell the indi garage what I've done next time it goes in for a service. Now I have to give it a wash cos it is looking pretty grubby.

Picked this beauty up just before Christmas, replacing my MkIII Meteor Grey VRs. Really wanted a manual this time rather than the DSG, manuals are like rocking horses 💩! A new one became available out of the blue so I snapped it up! Standard spec car, which is more than enough especially with the few additions over the outgoing model. This feels much better built, with a lift in material quality. However, I can't believe they removed the rear wiper, you can see nothing out of the back when it's raining! I'm not convinced with the electronics, had a few infotainment issues, very minor so far and an intermittently working foot boot release. Regularly upon start up it will tell me somethings not working such as hill start or start/stop. Would much prefer they kept the electronics simple so they have a better chance of working correctly!

Hey folks. Got a little project on the go. We'd been shopping around for a second car as a runaround and was getting depressed at the sea of Ford Fiestas, Fiat Pandas and Smart Cars coming up in our budget. I remembered my boss still had an Audi TT in his lockup that he mentioned he wanted to sell. So here we are. It's an early 1998 non-quattro model. It's only had 2 owners from new and has spent most of it's life in a garage or under an enclosed car port so has less rust on it than my car! Suspension was replaced a couple of years back (think it's lowered slightly too) aswell as the brakes which all look like new still. The only gremlins it has is that the dash is constantly showing an oil temperature sensor warning (it doesn't have one) and the brake wear warning (also doesn't have this). It suffered from the common dash failure and he sourced a used one from a newer model. The driver's side window regulator makes interesting noises and needs replacing (motor is fine thankfully). And I've just replaced a rear ABS sensor as the light was on. Stuck a new battery in as the old one was a cheap one and dead anyway. So it's off to be MOT'd (TÜV) next week so fingers crossed. Hence why it has no plates as the plates get removed when it's not currently registered (equivelant of SORN in the UK).

Couple of weeks ago.

Unless you don't care the error is there - it does not really affect anything 😉

I'd say you did it the right way. From your pictures it looks like Carista has renamed Fleece to AGM. That will save confusing. It used to have 'Binary AGM' and 'Fleece', fleece was always the correct type but you can understand why only having one choice with the letters AGM caused confusion. The battery type has a Mat and I believe it was the translation between a mat and a fleece that produced the wording. So you choice of AGM and not Binary AGM is correct. I think the ECU holds just a number for battery type, like type 1,2,3 etc and not an ASCII string "AGM', "EFB" etc. So as I've said it's good they have now changed the user displayed words of those ECU held numbers. This would explain why you saw your old battery as also 'AGM', I bet if you'd of checked with older software it would of said 'Fleece'. I have also heard like Gabbo that if nothing really changes that the coding is not so important. But I've always maintained if you can do it, then why not.

I didn't code my new battery first of all, as I had no way of doing it. I monitored the charging rate and it was putting in loads of juice, as it thought it was the old battery still. I recoded a day later (ordered OBDeleven) and then the car started to throttle the charging rate.

This is just how it is getting in more areas / regions of Scotland. Large amounts of Money spent by Councils from Tax Payers money going to SWARCO / e-Volt and Boyd Brothers and consultants and others. Too expensive and just not getting used. Now there are commercial charging at the same cost and sometimes less. Anyone hiring EV,s at the Airport and that have to return the cars with 75% charge might not even be able to do that near the airport before return or are paying this sort of price. Above Glasgow is the huge Whitelees Windfarm and generating electricity in Scotland is so easy, storing it not so and it is exported and these are the crazy tariffs for charging.

A few from earlier @ Idle Valley ............

Finally, managed to get this one: 35353 😊

Most people don't know their engine code. That usually doesn't affect their lives too much, but when asking questions of a technical nature on a car forum it can be very a useful thing to be able to mention. Why? It gives a more specific, precise definition of the engine in question than any other description you might otherwise use. Why is that important? 1. Information in parts catalogues, particularly for anything even slightly engine related, is often different depending on which engine code is being looked for. 2. Information (relating to the engine at least) in factory wiring diagrams is split up into sections by engine code. If you don't know the engine code, there might be a number of different diagrams with significant differences which could lead you astray if you pick the wrong one. 3. Questions concerning diagnosis of a fault should often vary depending on the engine code. If you have a 1.2 litre 3-cylinder petrol engine for example, it might have an EGR valve if it has certain engine codes, and not if it has others. It is very likely to even have a different number of camshafts and valves depending on which code. EGR faults are very rare on cars that don't have one! 4. If you know your engine code, you can put it into ebay as a search term (e.g. "AZQ engine") and you will see listings of ones for sale. These can be very useful for finding things on the engine or working out how to get to them, as they often include good photos from several angles of engines on pallets, with varying numbers of ancillary items fitted. Much easier to see what's what than from more or less any angle while the engine is in the engine bay. How and where can I find this code? On cars up until about 2018, there tended to be a paper sticker on the boot floor, often near the spare wheel well. Duplicate could often found at the front of the service book. That includes a certain amount of info about the vehicle, including engine (and gearbox) codes, paint code, all sorts. Example (engine code in red square, gearbox code in blue): Many cars also have a barcode sticker on the upper cambelt cover, like this one: The engine code is the letters (in yellow box) just ahead of the engine number: See also Nige's reply below about finding the engine code on your V5c. Letters ahead of the engine number. Consider adding this engine code to any info you may have already put in your profile and or signature, and keep it updated if you change cars.

Ten years ago today

I got mine from Amazon. Just check your model against the listing. There are some on Amazon that are cheaper & some that are more expensive. I went for middle price & a Prime / quick delivery. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HouYeen-Radiator-Coolant-Expansion-Octavia/dp/B0BNN571GX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=142WWY8LUH0VR&keywords=Coolant+tank+for+Skoda+Superb&qid=1705270487&quartzVehicle=106-11675&replacementKeywords=coolant+tank+for&sprefix=coolant+tank+for+skoda+superb%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-3

It only shows up in the control module when you scan for faults. Nothing you will see on the screen.

Looks to me like a standard car with the factory 'black pack' option. Wheels have been painted / powder coated, and the lower door trims are available from Kopacek / SUperskoda. HTH!

Good choice getting a manual, if I could change one thing about my VRS it would be the auto gearbox, it’s just not the same as actually changing gear yourself (the second thing I’d change would be the electronics also😄)

I think G13 is not sold anymore in VAG network. I believe G12 evo is the new standard. But I let those who really know confirm this.

How about putting on the sidelights as you park. Nothing like as bright as DRL,s then.

Thanks for your reply s I've now bought the skoda octavia se technology and very happy with the car

My car has never had a fault code in relation to the evap, crankcase ventilation or air / boost leaks. The pcv valve was changed twice on the old engine and the same humming sound always occurred, it is also present exactly the same with the new engine. My current speculation is that there is a small air leak somewhere in the evap system below the threshold which would trigger a dtc. But at this point it remains speculation and I'm continuing to monitor for any changes in symptoms or behaviours which would support or rule this out.

You have about 11.7 kWh usable battery. I plugged in my BEV about 30 minutes ago, It has a 32.6 kWh battery and 28.9 kWh usable. Plugged it into the 3 pin when at 66%. To get to 100% by 6.00 pm it is 34% needed, but that will not just be about 10 kWh it takes it will likely be 13 kWh because of losses.

Hello bigbatica If I try hard, I can almost remember being 40! Gaz

The Audi driver will have decided that nobody is liable to be wanting to charge and if they do there is plenty space. (Plenty space like at the car park at the other side of the building.)

I made a second thought, i will install in the future Kayaba suspension. https://kyb-europe.com/products/shock-absorbers/ultra-sr/ Shock Absorbers – Ultra SR High pressure gas shock absorbers, struts and cartridges for performance cars. Product Description The Ultra SR design is more responsive and automatically adjusts to driving conditions, providing a firmer ride and additional control using a high pressure gas charge. Twin tube / monotube unit, available as shocks, struts and cartridges for sports cars or cars towing heavy loads It's Kayaba and for Sport driving, i don't believe that @Thefeliciahacker has an objection huh?

For some people, the argument is what they're here for; the topic almost irrelevant.

Latest update solved this

You're right. But if you can have larger wheels as an option why can't you have smaller wheels as an option? Bearing in mind the state of our roads higher profile tyres much preferable to cope with potholes etc.

Our VAG dealers provide an OBD dongle to monitor your car and provide additional functions like sending diagnostics to the dealer, find my car, journey statistics etc It's always plugged in & doesn't seem to cause any problems with the battery.

Who told you than in a completely Stock car you are 100% safe? Does anyone has a contract signed by God that he won't die driving even with 60 km speed?

So VW has been configuring their batteries wrongly? I hope not lol, 😁 so these are the only options available with Carista OBd2, no fleece here.

Exactly my thoughts... How can you charge if warranty is valid?? Control switch issues will not show on the computer so it should be invastigation the problem prior repair rather just plug the diagnostic in. As you said, monkey can do it 🙈 Checked and most of the local Skoda dealers do this. Plus charge for courtesy car 😬 Fotunatelly I joined a forum of very knowledgeable people so I'm saved 😁👏😉

At least I'm not alone with this problem.... I would rather not give it a bangon the door in case I'll brake something else as well😬 I ordered contact cleaner and will have a go soon. Will update👍

She’s here and I love it.

Does anybody have issues with second phone keeps disconnecting bluetooth arround every 10minutes? It started with 1941 update.

I know the types, as a pedestrian the blind you too. Oddly most of them here loose their **** if you turn on your mountaineering torch and point it at the same angle they have their lights. Fundamentally the rules are there for all vehicles and actually the problem come from nobody bothering to enforce them. When they’re not actively enforced they might as well not be there as people ignore them. Selling halogen sized LED for off-road use only is a swizz. Bikes with lights up at 5 degrees upwards are not allowed, but common. Rather than new rules straight off, it might be useful to enforce those we have already.

It is worth mentioning that on both my Yeti’s the dealer told me I couldn’t have 16” wheels with the SEL trim. I called Skoda (UK) and after some debate they told me to place the order with my dealer and they would intercept the factory order and change the wheels from 17" to 16” with higher profile tyres. The order went through and both times I collected the car with 16” wheels as promised. Hence an original member of the 16” club! Recently I have found VW and others refusing to change the wheels for a smaller size although entry level models all had the size tyres I prefer. How difficult can it be to bolt on different size wheels at the factory?

Understand what you’re saying but for own satisfaction, would like to update maps regardless. Thanks marineboy👏

Had the chance to remove the silica bag from the coolant. Those have been notoriously known for breaking and clogging the matrix heater. Soon I will be servicing the engine oil, gearbox, Haldex. So I thought why not flush the G13 down the drain and get a fresh refill of G12evo.

Thanks for the advice, @stratosg. Fortunately the other day, the doorlock started working again as normal from the keyfob. For just now anyway. As soon as weather permits, I'll be taking the door panel off to check all the electrical connections, water damage etc. Cheers

I have 15mm front spacers and 20mm back spacers, also the car is lowered for 40-45 mm on Vogtlands and it feels glued to the road. Cant realy compare it to the OEM vRS handling tho, because I bought it with the springs already on. I am looking at the Eibach/Bilestein B12 Sportline kit (vogtlands are getting old, rusty, squeaky) to go with the RARB. Will let you know when its done 👍

No, the errors pop out when I start the car, but when I stop the car, and right after that start it again, there are no errors. The dealer told me, bring the car, so we can check it, maybe if will have to stay there some time. It's 70 km from my hometown, thay think that we are not working, only driving the car I am very disapointed, Skoda ruined my dream of driving a new car. I what my Alfa back

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

I don't think the OP's 2018 Kodiaq has USB C sockets.

Look at the fuse box behind the glove compartment.. The fuse for the lighter circuits (can't remember the number). You'll see this fuse holder position is slightly different than the nearby ones, there is a 2nd position where you can move it halfway down. The lower position will make the sockets switched (terminal 15), the upper position is always on (terminal 30). In some markets, the lower position won't have the metal contacts in there. Here in AU the contacts weren't there. It's simple to buy the contact (I think it was part number 927839 but I'm not totally sure on this) and enable the lower position. I just ran a wire at the rear of the fuse box from an upper fuse on T15 down to that lower position contact and now I can change it as desired from T15 to T30. Sorry this is all vague, I didn't document or take any pictures of this process. I recall it was a pain working in the tight space behind the glove box. TLDR: Look and see if your fuse box already has the extra contact in the lower position for the lighter socket and if so it will be easy.

I was thinking more of the models involved and the countries / regions that got even the Yaris or Yaris cross. My old iQ,s will be part of it though. Bl00dy safe vehicles with the passenger cell and 11 airbags. (If they still work and not part of that issue.) Skoda have tens of thousands of vehicles to get in and check the airbag issue with and VW Group millions.

Standard routine when I get in car ...... Press the start button and immediately turn off stop start and lane assist 🙂

i ve permanently disable it with OBD11 dream of doing the same with the start&stop (worse calibrating one i ever had on a car !)

@joaomac7Is it not enough to add a proper sump guard, heavy duty suspension and robust tyres and spares and leave off any additional plastic stuff.

So it’s finally done. Unfortunately I had to get outta country to get it done as I couldn’t find any one competent to do it. Full facelift conversion including matrix headlights, tail lights and self driving options (traffic assist and travel assist) IMG_6094.MOV IMG_6095.MOV IMG_6093.MOV