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I've just taken delivery of a pair of OSRAM Xenarc Night Breaker Laser NextGen D3S +220% Brighter bulbs today - c. £144 on eBay. However, that may not the complete answer to why the Bi-Xenons in my Yeti aren't a patch on what they were when I bought the car 4 years and 22k miles ago. Do you have Dim Low Beam from your Projector Headlights?

I think you mean 658601011 rather than 65860101, ie. with nine digits...as shown in the photo and link below. On the Kamiq, 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 is a winter tyre and rim specification although Skoda dealers are also supplying this size as a spare wheel for the Kamiq. This is an economy measure so that the same spare wheel can be used for both the Kamiq and the Scala. If Skoda had chosen a 205/60R16 spare wheel for the Kamiq they wouldn't also be able to sell it for the Scala...because the Scala uses smaller outside diameter tyres than the Kamiq. If a 205/60R16 fits in the spare wheel well it might be better to use that size. Skoda has a habit of supplying undersize spare wheels, most notably the 205/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 from the Octavia MK3 that they supply as a spare wheel for the Superb MK3...even though 205/55R16 has an outside diameter 4.9% smaller than the standard 215/60R16 tyre size on the Superb MK3. 195/60R16 tyre fitted to 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim 658601011 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/658601011-spare-wheel-skoda-37007.html

Many thanks for this post. Replaced it today in my Skoda Yeti 2015 (2 Ltr CFHC engine). Works perfectly, 19 Euro. To my surprise my local VW main dealer said he never sold this parts (1K0 121 113A) previously.

Sorry, missed this. These are sent out as this used to be a Q&A forum section, some others did to. When we turned them off, for some reason they still send out, nut not on all topics. It's on a long-ish, list to sort.

Part numbers can be found here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ

The analysis presented here is very sobering.

Finally! The good news is that the total price, including the product and the service time, was 129€. What I understood was that the first time, I didn't have the latest version, 1800. On the 2nd try, I had the newest version. However, the code was not valid anymore, as they lasted only 3 months after one tried it via ODIS. Last week, Skoda regenerated codes for the services, and this time, there was already the latest option, and with active codes, it went very fast in 15 minutes.

I haven't had my Yeti long but, had an issue with running cool and temp guage rarley moving. (symptoms) Running with thermostat stuck open. A work colleague had a similar issue with a DSG equipped Golf. He told me that DSG cars have a second thermostat in the gearbox cooling system. He suggested i start there to see if it fixes the problem before commiting to a full thermostat replacement. 20 mins and £20! sorted. It is located on the right side of the engine as you look at it, next to the DSG oil cooler, which is under the air filter box.

Stretch bolts mon cul! - they are set screws threaded the length of the shank. They do have a dry threadlock on them though, or blue paint for the Chinese ones!!!! I'm not sure what joker dreamed up all this stretch bolt nonsense but its getting out of hand. Not a recent thing though, 40 years ago a (bullsh1tter) friend was a service receptionist at a Ford dealer and they used to bill for a new sump plug and washer with every oil change claiming that the threads stretched, once again threaded the whole length, a 20mm diameter threaded steel fastener going into an alloy sump, yeah that is really going to stretch and can't be re-used 🥴

They pulled the park assist as standard on VRS etc when they had the chip shortage, I was told when ordering mine at the time, so believe there are many out there that don’t have it as standard which they should, not sure if they allowed optional orders to go ahead or prioritised possibly as they were paid for

Broken coil spring and/or worn top strut mount. Thanks. AG Falco

I did the reset of the DSG but having looked it up its more of a throttle body reset, Didn't make any difference to the running of the car. I have not done a CCA test on the battery. Think I'm just going to get a new one fitted to the car. The current battery is the original 7 years old now and done 135k miles. I may even get the thermostats changed at the same time as I have read that the DSG has its own stat.

Just check how many wires you have on your wiring loom, not the old switch. My switch has 10 pins but the loom has 9 wires. The switch I bought is part number 3V0941431 and seems to work perfectly.

This is more about the facelift in general than the Sportline in particular, but may nevertheless be of interest: https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/the-new-skoda-karoq-a-more-striking-look-with-greater-aerodynamics I may have time to say more later.

You can set heating/cooling departure time in the car. Go to e-manager. Click settings cog. Set the temperature you want by clicking on air conditioning. Go back one screen, touch a plan on the left. Now you set the time you want it be ready, and you will also see an option for air conditioning as well as charging and another to tell it when your off peak tariff is. So just click on air conditioning there if you want it pre warmed or cooled at your departure time, as well as being charged to whatever percentage charge you have chosen. Hope that makes sense!

I decided to order Goodyear 4seasons gen 3 £272 for 2 tyres fitted at home by tyresonthedrive.com Michelin CCs would have been £350+ and involve driving to a fitting centre.

Indeed when I bought some Bosch Discs about 4 years ago it said made on China on the box. I returned them, I will not use safety critical parts made in China or India regardless of Brand. Not that it stops the true country of origin being obfuscated. i.e. if stuff is made in china but packed or "finished" in the EU, what can they get away with as far as labelling? Having said that, I know a lot of new cars now contain Chinese etc manufactured components.

The last time i bought Bosch pads was about 6 years ago when i had my old Octavia, Also got them from ECP, Country of manufacture on the box was ''Made in China'' Didn't fill me with much confidence about them. i haven't bought Bosch pads since either...

Perfect yes, that seems much more similar. I've seen videos of a Chinese bloke prying it out of a Skoda Mii or VW Up, looks to be the same part will order some bits and try it out in a few days and let you know how it goes. I have a feeling it could simply be water ingress related as we had an awful lot of rain at the same time this happened.

Oh, bugger, I was hoping you'd say it was a pain and I wouldn't bother attempting it 🤣🤣 Thanks for the quick response.👍 I'm off to surf eBay...

I have some, can send you, pls contact me on PM

Very, turn it to off position, push it in, turn it right and it'll sit at the auto position. This releases the catches and it slides out. For the mirror mod I believe anything facelift can take the Golf frameless mirror. Before this the bracket is different, but it would have been a nice mod to do.

https://youtu.be/AIXTP-TgPEw?t=634

I don’t know or have access to the the part numbers unfortunately. I would be willing to bet that 90% of garages doing this job wouldn’t replace them, and would impact gun them on and off…. If it was me I would reuse them once and not lose a minutes sleep. But, this is the internet, so cue someone to tell me all about the properties of such and such steel bolts rated to x or y Newton metres etc etc. There is no fun in driveway repairs in winter. I’m with you on that, the older I get the less inclined I am to kneel down and lay under cars ! (except on a nice warm day when maybe I don’t need the car for a couple of days 😀.) My car is doing about 20k a year and I did a service early and got it MOTd in August so I get to service it and pre mot it myself in the summer and do any jobs. Then usually in Jan or Feb it needs another service which I get done at a vag specialist so it keeps some official service history going and gets a good look over by a pro on a ramp. If mine needed discs and pads now, I’d take it in and avoid the cold.

Thanks for the info, 100% on mine you have to take the carrier off to remove the discs as they're too deep. I don't suppose you know the part numbers for those stretch bolts I need to replace? They're a pig to remove from the ground, as I needed to go through the coil springs to get to them. They're even tighter on the passenger side rears, as the exhaust back box was also in the way. Either have to jack the car lower or higher to get an extension bar through the back of the spring to get to the caliper bracket bolts. Fronts look easy, in comparison. It would be much easier to do them from a lift, as I think you'd have a better angle to get them off using a toggle socket and longer breaker bar. I'm starting to put myself off, I could get them replaced for £200'ish at a local'ish independent using Brembo or similar quality discs and pads. Labour rates are a bit cheaper up north. As they don't fit the cheaper stuff. I'm getting too old for laying on my back over the winter replacing rear brakes🤣

On my 2015 1.4 tsi the torque settings for the bolts holding the calliper to the carrier is 35 Nm. I got brembo discs and pads from Euro car parts and they came with new caliper bolts. The torque setting for the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the wheel bearing housing are 90 Nm + 90 degrees. On mine there was no need to remove the carrier to get the disc off. I believe some 2017 onwards cars may have a different disc and that does need the carrier removing. The manual does state replace if removed, luckily I didn’t have to.

I'm finding it quite hard to decide. This car, in the middle, is an XJ8 that was previously owned by the late Ronnie Corbett. It's now owned by a friend's son who uses it in his Rust2Rome old car rally company

Looks like an X Type so sorry 🤣👍

Plus you will pay extra for it if it's not part of the "service". As I put earlier today's "service" is nothing like a service of many years back with many service items being called "maintenance" items by the likes of Skoda UK. Some garages still do a lot more than others in what they call a service and Skoda don't specify items I'd included in longer term services as they're "for-life" items which often means out of longest warranty, there are some items I would add to servicing on a 10 or 12 year old car as preventative and possible improvement issues - but most others would say I'd be wasting my time and placebo effects, each to there own. Never wait for warning lights and messages (particularly for low state of charge on the battery) - remember what those lights used to be (sometimes unfairly) called. All the best.

XJ8😉

Hi, I've discussed with the Director of my local dealer. Mk4 orders will be opened around april or may for France. First delivery should happen around summer. A point I had not noticed in first presentations, he said diesel engine should be in mild Hybrid version to reduce overhall CO2 emissions.

I've just taken delivery of a pair of OSRAM Xenarc Night Breaker Laser NextGen D3S +220% Brighter bulbs today - c. £144 on eBay. However, that may not the complete answer to why the Bi-Xenons in my Yeti aren't a patch on what they were when I bought the car 4 years and 22k miles ago. Do you have Dim Low Beam from your Projector Headlights?

Great. Thank you both. I was trying to be brave and studying how to remove the wheel myself. Looks like when we are putting it back on, I need correct torque to be set. I can't just stand on the level to tighten it. Lol. Taking to a garage in thr weekend.

A small interior mod, a Superb MK3 light switch with added chromey bling. It is white and green instead of all green. It was all of £23 from eBay, I just confirmed I matched up functions and number of pins. I started looking at other items, such as Golf mirror adjuster, window switches and facelift climate control. I also looked at a frameless Golf interior mirror. I decided against all of it due to the level of work and that the mirror won't fit due to the connection. Also, I seem to have a combination of white and green already, my steering wheel buttons are white but everything else is green. I also really need to get other bits sorted so I'm looking at ball joints for the front end. Does anyone know the ball joint size for VRS'? On Autodoc there is multiple sizes, M12 x 1.5mm or M10 x 1.5.

It is worth noting that many VAG owners have reported that the: "One-Click Apps – pre-made car coding applications designed to simplify your customization journey" can and will also change totally unrelated and unnecessary coding on some controllers / cars, please bear this in mind and use at your own risk, personally I would ALWAYS recommend you do the physical coding manually yourself (after a little research in what to change). Myself and several other VCDS owners have had requests to try and revert coding done with these Apps.

I've been busy with other things through December and only used the car a few times but it had gotten worse to the point where i had a 1 hour drive with the HU stuck in boot loop and then two 30 minute drives without it booting up either so had got to the point where it just didn't boot. After speaking to another member they sent me an image for the firmware disc without it affecting the maps/media partitions so i burnt and installed it on Sunday and now have a working HU again.

+1 Comfort mode is only available on cars with DCC suspension. Otherwise it's just Eco, Normal, Sport for Driving Modes. Without DCC.... With DCC.....

The driving mode will usually change: The accelerator pedal mapping The DSG shifting profile & use of coasting Steering wheel assistance Air conditioning As mentioned by MartiniB you should normally be able to feel the difference in the steering assistance & depending on how you drive in the responsiveness from the accelerator pedal (in sport mode the accelerating should be more aggressive for the same percentage of pedal travel). I'm yet to really try this in my Superb but in the Octavia the difference was quite subtle but should be noticeable between the extreme (eco to sport).

Blown fuse Faulty wiring Power management disabling them due to poor battery state of charge You need a VAG specific code reader such as VCDS or OBDeleven, rather than a generic OBD reader, to see the detail.

Also, there's not much space above the throttle body, which is the reason why the factory cover is shaped in this way - I'm not sure whether would a normal L bend pipe fit. But I've seen people cutting off all the extra material, leaving only the pipe - like this. But you can see that there's not a big difference.

Looks good in the begging but later not so. I have thought about it many times but i hesitate. Looks modern and convenient but must have a very good alarm first.

No, i compared a carburetor car with another carburetor, not mine, i never referred to MPI.

Mike sleeps with his Felicia in his bedroom. She has her own mattress. So no rust 😅

A bad immobiliser would throw an error usually. Moreover, the way your car started to act before failing is not consistent with an immobiliser fault. Typically a faulty or not paired immobiliser results in the engine starting perfect but stopping abruptly in 2-3 seconds. PS: please remember that I have no direct access to your car and I have to take your word for the diagnose of fuel, air, timing, and compression. As an example in this regard, when I asked you if you can hear the fuel pump buzzing when key ON, that was the most basic check. That only tells current is getting to the pump. Yet that is not proof enough the pump develops enough pressure. You didn't mention how many miles your car has and when (it anytime) did you change the fuel pump. A fuel pump on its last leg can produce the exact symptoms you described. You would need a fuel pressure gauge to decide that.

@Orchid70 Just out of curiosity, can you guesstimate how many Skoda Felicias are in Sweden? Are they fit with Webasto from the factory?

How good are you (or a friend) with using an ohmmeter? The idea is to check the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor when the engine is cold and hot, respectively. I am talking the half part of the sensor that feeds the ECU input.