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Everything you’ve said you find annoying is exactly how I feel about mine too, and I’m especially glad you mentioned the traction control. If I need to make even a slightly spirited pull away from a junction in anything less than bone dry conditions then it is almost impossible not to have some degree of wheel spin. It’s so embarrassing, anyone nearby must think I’m either incompetent or just showing off! It’s a shame as overall it is a nice car but as someone who enjoys being able to drive a car I have found there are just too many annoyances that detract from the experience.

At least Laura still talks to you 😅 Since having mine in June 2023 there have been no end of software issues. I think the forgetting of settings is mostly due to skoda restoring databases from backups every now and then. I used to lose everything in first month or so of ownership. After 9 months it has mostly not happened as my backup must have close to my current settings now. I had a skoda mk3 before and the ASR worked a lot better then. I'm putting it down to the extra weight in back of car from the battery. Imagine the none IV models stick to the road so much better.

Bonnet is the same.

I have just read the carexpert review on mods, looks like it is a pretty dodgy thing to do any mods like that and not worth it. Oh well, it was worth to ask knowledgably people in here. @nta16 thanks for your input.

There is nothing wrong with draining your battery. With it being constantly around 1% you'll drive the car as a regular hybrid and still have nice mileage. No need to purposefully recharge it with engine, it is just a waste of fuel. I think it is all about weight distribution due to battery. Even on the best tires you'll have the same issue - slightly harsher push on accelerator and wheels spin.

Hello. Have only been reading here until now, but since you asked for input... I am born 1985, living outside a small town in Sweden. I have a Felicia 1999 that is fully insured and I pay ~ £140/year. Don´t know the exact numbers but if I am to blaim for a crash, I´ll pay around £250 that is of course if I wasn´t reckless or drunk or something like that. Those £250 will be deducted from my payout for my car. Not a clue what they think my car is worth... probably not much and that´s fair since I didn´t pay a lot for it. I am the second owner of the car and have put a lot of effort into making it look, run and drive descent.

Maybe it helps

I think this is where that sort of information came from...... Renault went their own way and hence they have this feature they have had for more than a decade of being able to charge at a variety of single phase and 3 phase amperage.. Renault Zoe ZE50 R135 (2021) AC charging characteristics (Active power consumption) measurement

Hi - Really liking my Octavia, very nice drive and features overall and it makes my driving better (I haven’t figured out why yet). I do have some queries/frustrations and just wanted to know if it’s just me or if others feel the same: 1. Electric Battery This gives me battery level anxiety ! I don’t (can’t) have a home charger and the nearest charge point is not a convenient distance from my house. I mostly have to rely on regeneration. The majority of journeys I take are a mixture of motorway and town driving and under 30 miles. I find I get the best regeneration on the motorway in hybrid mode with auto switched off and recharge level set to 100. But in regular hybrid mode the battery just drains ridiculously quickly even with other car features disabled. Example: I finished charging at Tesco to 100% (first time ever). With no heating or assists I reversed out and drove down the car park 100 metres and it went to 99% - that’s about 20 seconds of travel ! 2. Assists The first time lane assist kicked in I thought it was cool, but I subsequently have found it incredibly annoying so I almost always disable it. I want to drive the car, I don’t want the car to drive me! Front assist is good although on some roads near my house it randomly blares out near parked cars when I’m nowhere near them, I notice it happens more on a slight bend. In one case it automatically slammed the brakes on which was actually way more dangerous than what the car ‘thought’ was happening. 3. Save Settings I’ve seen other people comment about this too. The profile doesn’t save all the settings which I find ridiculous. I set the car up the way I want and it saves half the settings. There are always things I need to switch on and off every time I get into the car. Annoyingly Electric/Hybrid mode - it always default to electric, which I kind of get but it is not wanted. Minor gripe, it just reverts settings randomly at times. For example Laura (female voice) one morning was male again. But why ? 4. Traction control Oddly I find the traction control really bad. I’m not talking about putting it in sport mode and speeding away from a junction in the wet … I’m talking about general, non-aggressive driving, in the dry. It doesn’t seem to kick in quick enough to stop a slight wheel spin. In the month I’ve had it I’ve wheelspun slightly 7 times in situations I would never expect the car to allow. In contrast this is more spins in 1 month than I had in 5 years of my Astra CDTi. In fact I can only really recall it happening once in the Astra and that was in the wet but traction control corrected it. Anyone else finding this ? Aside from those, and it sounds like I’m more irritated than I actually am, the car is superb (no pun intended). I really enjoy driving it, it’s smooth, good interior space, the boot is amazing, and there are so many clever features.

Hi Elliott Thought I recognised my car 😁 Just wanted to say thanks and to give you a SHOUT OUT on the forum for another great job, delivered as quoted, on time and in budget. I couldn't be more pleased ..................and here you are, a few hours later already helping out the next guy who needs it. Well done and thank you, happy to recommend !👍

The article quoted is from UK National Grid. In which carbon intensity is said to be lowest on record. Use of hydrocarbon raises carbon intensity. Cars charge off the grid most of the time.

I did the installation myself on all the doors. It was not an easy task. I spent many hours thinking about it. I finally made the decision and did the installation. The door paneling needs to be removed of course. Then, removal of the plastic piece that in the best versions accepts the lighting. Carefully cutting a thin line with a dremmel and gluing the LED strip. Some photos from the "project" The inside of the card door. Must be cutted with dremmel of with a iron solder. After the removal of the plastic trim. The plastic trim Masking with tape and ready for cutting. Trim after cutting. The "gap" is almost 3mm. I glued the LED strip with 3M double side tape. I put the plastic trim back to its possition. I used a solder iron to melt the joints. This is the final result.

That's exactly what is being installed at each A&E bay plus Ambulance layover bays n a number of hospitals across the country already (I've been involved in three so far)

Of course Gianni. This one is exaclty the same with mine. I bought from the same store. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004459702897.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!€ 87%2C82!€ 58%2C84!!!93.25!62.48!%402103201917070740966928384ec2b5!12000029378763755!sh!GR!109817215!&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007586021007.1005004459702897

As posted in the sticky above: https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-workshop-service-maintenance-repair-manuals-downloads-inc-vrs-free And all for free!!

They will just need a charging post at A&E then they can be charged for most of the time because patients are still in them waiting to be seen

I've changed all my discs and pads recently. I put drilled discs on the front and standard on the back with EBC greenstuff pads all round. I'm impressed with the results, it's like a big hand grabbing the car from behind and pulling it to a stop.

Update: About the TC-6 measurements. As i have mention in the past the TC-6 screen has Current with L/h symbol, Average with the Ø symbol ant Total with the Σ symbol, in the Current function above the 32 Km/h speed the symbol disappears and shows the fuel consumption but in a fraction of a second this can change, when you release the gas pedal the fuel consumption starts dropping and then you take a photo and make a (fake actually) comment that your Felicia has a very low fuel consumption, is very economical etc. Here are two examples, in Highway and Mountain Route. Someone who has not a TC-6 or does not know how works can be deceived from these photos but take a look closely, there is No symbol in the LCD screen ! Yes shows a low fuel consumption but this apply only to the specific time that the photo was taken. Another trick: you are in the Highway, the FC indeed is Low for example let's say 6 ltr/ 100Km, you enter in the City and get stuck in traffic, the FC starts rising and when reaches 9 ltr you take a picture claiming that you car in City traffic has that FC so it's very economical etc. The point is that this measurement will change soon and after some minutes you can't post the same plus the Odometer will discover your lie, you can not have that 9 ltr FC after few kilometres inside the City. So we must be very suspicious for possible ''magic numbers'' in fuel consumption that can we read in the internet even when these comments accompanied by photographs. 😎

INEOS Chemicals Grangemouth (INEOS O&P UK), INEOS FPS and Petroineos signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Acorn CCS Project to work together to develop Scotland’s first carbon capture and storage system linking Scotland’s industrial heartland to the Acorn CO2 transport and storage system in North East Scotland by 2027. Investment at the Grangemouth site will enable the capture and storage of approximately one million tonnes a year of CO2 from Grangemouth by 2030, with the scope to capture further significant volumes beyond this date. Once operational the proposed carbon capture and storage system will further increase emission reduction at the site to more than 50% compared with 2005. The FPS is managed in accordance with a Pipeline Integrity Management Scheme (PIMS). This documentation system meets the requirements of all relevant regulations. We define clear accountabilities and responsibilities for integrity management within the FPS. Regular integrity management reviews take place with our operating and inspection authorities and we review our operation and integrity data annually with the Health and Safety Executive. The forecast operational lifetime of the FPS pipelines is reviewed by us regularly and we expect the system to be available to at least 2040. The pipeline integrity strategy of the FPS is to inhibit internal corrosion and we have been successful in sustaining negligible corrosion rates. Our inspection data demonstrates the success of this strategy and we see no reason to expect that the pipeline life of the FPS will not extend beyond 2040. We will continue to invest heavily in the FPS to maintain required integrity and availability performance to end of life.

MFG Our current tariff is £0.79 per kWh. If you are a roaming customer, rates may vary, please check with your service provider.

Furty fwee: Gaz

Sounds like tax fiddle to me?

Dave Takes it On has already attempted to address this problem and one of his ideas is to make such houses that have no drive etc, flats etc, have something as simple as a weatherproof 13A 3 pin socket and then people can plug in and charge with an AC charger. The problem with those is the massive shock risks with worn / damaged cables, long leads cannot carry much current without heating up, and also of course the painfully slow charging times, even overnight will not be enough to recharge the battery in many cases. He also advocates cable gullies to be installed at every house, even if you cannot park outside your house, you could maybe park outside a neighbour's and use their gully and power and pay them for the power??? WTF, people would be stealing your power and not driving up your power bill, even with lockable sockets, they will find a way to defeat them and plug in even while you're out. The only real long term solution is to find a way of getting the charge times down to a similar time as it takes to top up ICE vehicles and put the chargers at filling stations.

Parked up today. Can't believe how massive cars are these days. I could hardly get out. It makes me want an even smaller car!

Some side by sides for you

Wow so detailed , 👍👍👍

When someplace without the tool i use a Welding rod and pliers and make a tool. Some do it properly and it is just like the real McCoy, and some do the Zip-tie thing.

That sounds better but you won't need 98 let alone 102 for factory settings, though a couple of tankfulls of petrol with higher additive packages now and again might not hurt, if reasonably possible. If the plugs are correct for factory tune then you can leave them for their 4(?) year service - but if you fit service and maintenance parts now yourself now you know what parts have been fitted when and how for sure so you can have the confidence of that and plan their replacement. A part can look OK and function but still be beyond its optimum and reasonable service and performance life.

The coils should be fine. My issue is with Remapers. I would never remap a car without first fitting the plugs i want to use, the air filter / intake and run it on super unleaded and then when sure all is well. Tuners with no opinion on the plugs might just not be that bothered about stuff like getting the most from what the customer has.

I would have asked the person that tuned it on their recommendation for Spark Plugs. I would have bought DENSO. Members here with remaps will tell you maybe if the stayed with OEM. Check you can remove the Ignition Coils or you want to get the tool to do that.

I would check with the car owner, the PCP company, before doing such work. Here's just one article, first found on a quick search so you will be able to find others and decide for yourself which if any of them might be right - always cross reference, with if possible a couple of other reliable sources any information you get from any source including manufacturers. -https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/can-i-modify-my-car-on-a-pcp/ Easiest thing to do is read the contract and/or contact the company and get the answer in writing. All modern cars have oversized wheel and tyres for fashion, as the car manufacturers and most buyers want, usually unless you already have them fitted a smaller wheel size is available and this is combined with a tyre of higher profile (higher side wall) this subject to tyre type usually gives more air and 'rubber' cushioning to the likes of potholes, obviously can't do miracles. The PCP company may feel more included towards a change of wheel and tyre than a change to dampers as they may see the dampers as a modification but you would have to ask them as I'm only guessing and they might say the smaller wheels would devalue the car as they're not fashionable or "standard" - but you can explain that you will keep the original wheels and tyres and refit them to the car if you surrender (or whatever the correct term is) the car to them. Explain why you want to make either change. The smaller wheels do need to fit over your brakes and your model spec of course. If you have a look (and/or post) in the Karoq (or Tyres and Wheels) forum(s) you will see many owners chose to downsize their wheels for more comfort. Grip and handling is a lot about the design and make up of the tyre rather than just its size so a good smaller tyre can outperform a larger not so good tyre. HTH, cheers.

Those considering salary sacrifice for a car need to check out the impact on their pension. The impact varies by pension scheme so some are affected more than others. Those in LGPS based on final salary for example could be paying for that leased car for the rest of their lives if within three years of retirement. https://www.dyfedpensionfund.org.uk/media/1215/dpf-salary-sacrifice-factsheet-english.pdf The sacrifice promoters will say it's negligible but really it's relative. Individuals need to work it out for themselves to see if it's worth it.

Not always a fanboy of WhatCar as they can be a bit lightweight on real details and even here they talk about charging at around 30p per kWh when most EV drivers charge at home and I would have thought the majority of them have night time tariffs of less than 10p a KWh but that said I thought below summarised the economic Truth about Electric Cars, mentioned the environmental issues many EV drivers have concerns about and one of a few key points not mentioned was the attractiveness of electric car acquisition via the UK government Treasury Salary Sacrifice scheme, which I hope to join in the next few months to acquire a TESLA which is clearly streets ahead of other brands, perhaps Renault/Dacia being in the place TESLA is not ie relatively cheap EVs......

No mk3 or mk3.5 had wireless AA or wireless car play. The radio hardware doesn't support it... Your only option is an aftermarket dongle 👍

Workshop procedure, not included wheel arch liner because it's self explanatory and if you cannot remove that, the wing should be left to someone who can.

Data can come from many points in the chain. Energy into the motor? -> traction only, not accounting climate and accessaries. Energy from the battery when driving? -> not accounting for when car is parked. (Tesla counts this) All energy from the battery? (such as vampire drain, pre-conditioning usage, sentry mode usage) All energy goes into the battery? Energy delivered at dispenser unit? How is the car going to know about losses between battery input and dispenser unit? Energy went through the meter, with transmission losses before the charge point? Electricity is very efficient in everything (eg. heating, LED lighting, battery storage, inverter/rectifier, transmission) , but there are many small percentage losses everywhere. At some point, a decision must be made on where to measure. I personally don't see any problem only measuring battery consumption during driving. Remembering electricity is priced at 7.5p/kWh for well over 90% of my EV charging. 😜 Today, I drove into London, parked up about 10min walk from Buckingham Palace, a street away from St James' Palace for £1.34 (Westminster 10min parking fee for EV's, max stay 4 hours). This 20 odd miles trip would cost ~60p in electricity at most. No congestion charge, Might as well get most out of parking discounts before it goes away.

Welcome. Battery not much good at 100%, and 100% displayed might not really be 100%. as it is the car wants to regenerate and produce electricity and the 100% when driving off in a BEV or PHEV surprises some as they need to maybe use the brakes. As to the TC/ASR, Is it the ECO bias tyres being pretty crap if non aggressive driving from a junction and dry. What tyres are on the car and did you reset the pressures from the hand over and reset the TPMS?

Mines just been done .... Keep an eye on the coolant level and temp gauge. Get underneath and have a look on your drive for coolant. Look carefully at and around the undertray for fresh signs of coolant. Have a good sniff around the engine bay..... Make sure the neighbours cant see you doing this ... p.s. also make sure the DSG and Haldex oil have been done and the Haldex strainer had a good clean.

I agree, Matrix on motorways, especially busy motorways is not a great idea. I hardly use Matrix while on the motorway. I'm always worried that I would dazzle oncoming cars. Unless coming back from work at 3 in the morning and motorway is empty. And then it's annoying that. Matrix doesn't work as it should...

Hi! New to the forum. Since 2018, I am the happy owner of a Superb II 2013 2.0 TDI L&K, DSG. It currently has 250k km, and my goal is to keep it going for as long as possible. The interior and mechanically, it feels as solid as the first day. Aesthetically, it has a number of battle scars, and I don't plan to do anything about it. The reason I love the car is that it is incredibly practical, economical, and that I choose to not worry much about it. If if gets another scratch, I just shrug and move on. So that's why I post the picture below: In its most practical form, the Superb after carrying four people and their paddleboard gear and picnic stuff:

Or get out of the passenger side😁

Do you have a sunroof? Rear washer working okay? There should be a drain at the bottom left of the rubber under your fuel filler cap. Shouldn't be causative but worth checking. From the photo, I'd agree, that knock is quite unlikely to have affected the door seals. With the amount of water you describe, I'd be checking the door seals and looking for tell tale signs of water. Maybe sit inside and run a hose over it? Gaz

This foam and jack kit is listed on "skoda eshop cz". You should be able to order it from a VAG parts department in the UK if you give them the OEM part number, ie. 5E3093860B. This kit includes everything except for the actual spare wheel. A 125/70R18 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 space saver spare wheel would fit, but it's worth trying to see if a full size wheel would fit such as a 205/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1. You might find the below chart useful. If the 215mm actual width of the 205/60R16 fitted to a 6.5J rim is a little wide, then a non-standard 195/65R16 fitted to a 6J rim is 14mm narrower, ie. 201mm. 201mm is still a lot wider than a 125/70R18 space saver tyre, so you will have to use trial and error to see if you can get anything close to a full size spare wheel to fit in the spare wheel well with the carpet flush. Actual inflated width of tyre (measured from the outside of sidewall to the outside of sidewall) 195/65R16 fitted to 6J rim 201mm (perhaps the 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim from the Karoq) (non-standard option) 205/60R16 fitted to 6.5J rim 215mm 205/55R17 fitted to 6.5J rim 214mm 205/55R17 fitted to 7J rim 220mm Foam and jack kit for Octavia MK4 5E3093860B (1599CZK is about £55.33) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-18/p/5E3093860B

I tried it today. Great, lane assist now works properly just like on my 2016 model. You get yellow side lines in the lane assist icon to tell you it’s working. Only slight niggle is that you have to have ACC engaged to get adaptive lane assist. If you revert to manual speed control eg by touching the brake, you just get the crappy bouncing-off-the-white-lines lane assist. Not sure why they did that! The 2016 car could have adaptive lane assist without ACC engaged.

I used a plastic tyre lever and plenty of brute force. The best part to start at is one of the corners that would be nearest the tail lights. It feels like it's going to break but seem pretty resilient. I used a wiper arm puller as the arm seemed welded onto the spline. Mine was pretty rusted inside the gear assembly due to blocked washer jet allowing fluid to run into the gears. A bit of cleaning and it's back working. Also the trim went back without too much trouble.

Gentlemen, I thought more about how to convert the existing cabin air filter system because the years have passed, i am not young and careless about health issues like before and allergies are getting worse in the environment we live in. This is the existing (factory) system that I have, from its grille air blows in and from below I have a sponge made of activated carbon, while below I added a layer of kitchen filter absorber to hold more particles and to better close the gaps on the sides. The metal lip of the hood does NOT seal well, it is smaller in size than the sponge and does not touch it, so there is almost 2 cm empty space and the result is that odours from the engine pass through the sponge into the cabin. I remind you that rain drops and also water from the car wash to some extent fall on the sponge, which however, dries out through the heat of the environment and from the heat of the engine. Intermediate solution: I put a piece of stainless steel mesh to hold leaf-insects but all the above still apply. 1st solution: I go to a 3D printer, they make a "hat" for me, i.e. a rectangular parallelogram on top i fit a Filtron pollen filter for Skoda Felicia 1600 and an oval on the bottom to rest on the existing plastic frame. Yes, the air will be filtered better by the sponge, but there is still the issue of the odours from the engine room hitting the pollen filter. 2nd solution: Once again, I make a plastic frame with a 3D printer, I glue it back and as it comes down, it completely "closes" the lower structure, completely sealing it as we say: the cabin will only get air from the environment but there is the issue of drying since the engine air will not catch it and I have to wait in a "natural way" for example the sun to dry the Filtron pollen filter. 3rd solution: Again, I make a plastic frame with a 3D printer, I glue it back and as it goes down, it reaches evenly, it will barely touches the bottom construction, so: the cabin will get enough air from the environment and a little bit from the engine, while the Filtron dust filter will dry a little naturally, but also at bit from the hot air of the engine. 4th solution: Using a 3D printer, I make a plastic frame, glue it back and as it goes down, i bring it level with the surface barely touches the construction below, so: the cabin will get enough air from the environment, the screen will keep the leaves-flyers but there will be a minimal space where the heat of the engine room will dry the fine filter which will be made of an kitchen absorbent filter. 5th solution: With a 3D printer, I make a plastic frame, I glue it back and as it goes down, it completely "closes" the lower structure, completely sealing which will only consist of an absorber filter, so: the cabin will only take in air from the environment and the kitchen absorbent filter will dry faster in a natural way, for example the sun, since it will be thinner. @Papez @Thefeliciahacker @Raychev05 @Breezy_Pete @DeanVRS20VT or any other fine Gentleman who wants to help me i would love to hear your opinions.

Definitely doing this... it's incredibly annoying. Glad I visited Briskoda today

^^^ Nothing to do with short measures. If you think you are under served fuel you buy then take a vessel and put the 1 litre or 5 litres in fuel and be sure you get what you pay for. Even go by weight. A fuel tank capacity is just that, not including fuel up the pipe. Vented space etc. Get an empty tank and fill it with liquid and see the actual capacity of that tank. Not with the filler pipe attached.