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I like Rotis. Gandalf likes Rotis. Together, they make a good form!! 😂 Really pleased with how these turned out, and the fitment is spot on. Rotiform LAS-R 19x8.5 ET35 Matte Black

It's rather strange that all 3 exhaust valves were damaged but none of the inlet valves. If oil is being burnt as blue smoke then it's likely thats oil drawn in through the inlet valve seals, not exhaust valves or overpressured crankcase oil coming back through the PCV. As @J.R. points out it could be ring related, bore damage maybe even a piston with a small hole where a valve punched it. They earlier did offer to fix it for £300+ perhaps @Catherine41 should accept if they will still do that but can guarantee it will be fixed and warranty (6 months min) the work. Maybe there has been too much confrontation now to pursue this solution. @Catherine41 should take @thomasaspin advice and pop over to Ashtons Autoworx in Lees Oldham and ask for free advice and a quote.

Thanks for your input & opinions everyone. I guess there's no hard & fast answer. Maybe what I'll do is stick 'petrol' in it - and every now & again when I've got a spare fiver, I'll treat it to a tank of the good stuff and give it a bit of welly. Might go easy on it - leavei it be and just keep using the wife's mini instead...

If a TSI then if or when you change the Cambelt the water pump does not require replacing. With a TDI it is best to. As far as a 1.6 TDI or a 2.0 TDI I would be considering have I had the car from new and know how it has been driven. How it has been possibly driven by others if bought used and how much you like to risk it for a biscuit. Recommendations from VW group or others is OK but it is not them paying to have maintenance or failures.

After 6.5 years, decided to change Gandalf's personality. Really pleased with how these turned out, and the fitment is spot on. Rotiform LAS-R 19x8.5 ET35 Matte Black finish.

It’s the chassis damage that you might not be aware of that seals the write off argument. Unfortunately

Maybe not in France but it is built into UK consumer law. It’s part of the Consumer Credit Act 1974 that means your credit card provider is jointly and severally responsible for any breach of contract or misrepresentation by a retailer or trader. It allows you to make a claim against your credit card company to get your money back if a retailer or trader lets you down and refuses to honour the contract properly - including if it goes bust.

Next time I see him, I'll tell my mate who had 2 CVH engine XR3(i)s and one RS Turbo that all smoked on overrun pickup due to hardened oil seals of your opinion, then wait until he stops laughing at you.

I've given this strange incident some thought If true, my hypothesis is:- This is probably a 2010 htp 12 valve engine either CEVA or CJLA. The timing cover sits on top of the cylinder head and spark plugs are mounted centrally deep in the timing cover. If the timing cover to cylinder head had not been sealed properly using the proper liquid sealant, there is potential for the oil in the camshaft space can leak into the bottom of the spark plug wells, and up into the ignition coil packs sitting on top of the plugs. So maybe timing cover not sealed correctly. And were the timing cover/cylinder head bolts correctly tightened? We have to presume a new cylinder head gasket was installed according to manufacturers procedure (which might incude sealant). Also I hope they didn't reuse the old bolts which will have been one time stretch bolts. It would be standard procedure to replace stem seals if any new valve is fitted (and lapped in). The first things that would bend with loss of camchain would be the valves, pistons may be damaged, but I doubt conrods would, although little and big end shells might be damage. Valve heads can sometime break off in fragments so its vital to examine bores for debris and damage otherwise oil burning is inevitable. Other things like hydraulic tappets should be checked and changed if damaged. Any damage unexpectedly found should be reported to the customer before any further work is carried out, with the customer agreeing. If the customer declines a recommendation then the garage should put it in writing to the customer. Otherwise it never happened. Items that could have been damaged 6 Roller rocker arm 8,9 Valves 7 Hydraulic tappet 13 Valve stem seal

Unless you have already ceded ownership to the insurer, it may pay you to have an independent inspection of the damage and retain the salvage - it is possible that it is only the trunk, rear crash bar and bumper that require replacement or repair.

@Catherine41 This might be tricky to follow because I'm trying to address two of your posts. " I didn't take it to him for valve seals, I took it there for timing belt" - Unless you explicitly directed him to replace the timing belt and carry out no other work he should have noticed the valve seals and possibly other damage, and at least advised you of other works needed and/or other damage to the engine before proceeding to replace the belt. "there was (by implication engine) oil coming up through the ignition coil" - Complete and utter male bovine faeces. The ignition coil may contain electrical insulating oil, but if that starts leaking you'll get rough running, initially at high revs but eventually the engine won't run at all. There is no connection between the coil and the lubricating oil system so lube can not leak through the coil!

You could contact your credit card company and instigate a Section 75 action against the garage. The credit card company is actually the customer in this transaction. I am currently following the same line after defective roof repairs. It costs you nothing and the garage has to prove that they did everything correctly TO THE CREDIT CARD COMPANY.

@Catherine41 - in your second post you mentioned bent 'pistons' that had to be replaced due to damage - did you actually mean engine valves?

Catherine I myself am in Manchester and my mother had the 1.2L HTP engine and the same thing happened to her , if you would like some help feel free to DM me , garage wise I would be taking it to Ashton autoworx in lees oldham

Good afternoon @Catherine41 - from your description of the issue and the subsequent, reaction from the garage that carried out the work, putting aside the oil burning issue for the moment - I'm wondering if they made an error in the valve timing when replacing the chain. If you do take it to another (qualified/rated) mechanic, I suggest the timing be checked first - at least that way, if the timing is incorrect, you have the original garage on the hook for the repairs because of their mistake.

Haha, no problem. V2G - vehicle-to-grid (bidirectional charging and discharging to the grid) V2H - vehicle-to-home (bidirectional charging, and discharging according to home needs) V2L - vehicle-to-load, allow a load to be connected to the car, for example kettle or elec BBQ etc. V2X - vehicle-to-everything. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle-to-grid#Bidirectional_local_V2G_(V2H,_V2L,_V2B,_V2X) First 2 need to be phase synced with grid connection, hence V2L comes first and is available on many EV's now. V2G need communication from grid operator. V2H only need an in-home CT clamp, it tries to zero grid draw by providing power from car battery. CCS - Rapid charging connector, mandated by EU across Europe, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combined_Charging_System Chademo - Rapid charging connector used on early Japanese cars, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CHAdeMO G98, G99, G100 are application to export energy, the form depends on specific install. https://connections.nationalgrid.co.uk/get-connected/solar-and-wind/generation-g99/ Nissan Leaf/eNV200, Tesla Cybertruck, Ford F150 lightning, Cupra Born, VW ID Buzz can all do V2G and V2H. Most Korean and Chinese EV since 2020 (MG4, EV6 etc.) can do V2L.

Well. Cracked it thanks for the suggestions - but a bit of a knack to it. -mistake I had made earlier was trying to turn the handbrake off after the door was open - it stays locked on, or comes on when the door is opened if autohold is lit. - need to turn the autohold off and/ or the handbrake off ( whichever are lit) BEFORE opening the drivers door. then they stay off when the door is opened and the brakes stay off. thanks again for the advice.

I agree - cars are so computerized nowadays with all aspects of the car being handled by separate control units, all having their own firmware to run, which then all report back to a central MCU and the manufacturers, beyond the original manufacturers' warranty, don't cover software issues on extended or Skoda Approved Used warranties? Look how long it has taken Skoda to sort out the Octavia Mk4 software issues.

I have already decided that I will not update myself. And 2 authorized dealers have already told me that for money they will update these 3 units for me without any problems. I guess they know how to do it. Thank you.

@D.FYLAKTOS I was going through the files from my wife's old phone and found a few for you. This is in Wales, you can tell by the clouds, just off one of those roads, September 2017.

However *IF* there is a technology sea change and Hydrogen Fuel Celled vehicles become more prevalent, then it is entirely possible that todays BEVs needing "antiquated" fixed charging points and large capacity batteries will become irrelevant. BEVs are not the only future

Dealers just connect your car to ODIS and check for updates. If they don't see any, they tell you software is up-to-date FOR YOUR CAR. And in a way they are not wrong, as it's VAG to blame here, that updates are not "enabled" for every car... Of course dealers could be more helpful and give you some hint, but i'm guessing something is preventing them. It is annoying, i know. One way to force them is to report some issue, that is covered by TPI with firmware upgrade. I.e. "my Android Auto is restarting" or "system doesn't save home address in sat-nav". This way they can "add" car to TPI, and magically ODIS will show them updates, which it was not showing before. Again - this is how VAG made it work. If you ask me, this should be illegal. Since there are new software versions released, fixing some issues, by law it should be applied for all cars, even if users is not reporting one of the fixed issues. Otherwise faulty firware is still there, so product as such is also faulty. Wonder if our governments will do something about it one day...

....thought i would leave a few thoughts about my manual vRS 220 (~300) estate after 7 years and 75k miles tweaks in no particular order.... H&R lowering springs Eibach Bilstein B12 Suspension for SKODA OCTAVIA E90-79-010-06-22 30-40/30mm - tunershop on ebay Revo stage 1 from 10k miles great from 3rd gear onwards new CHHB sachs clutch from 20k miles - if you remap its only a matter of time before upgraded clutch needed H&R 26MM FRONT & 24MM REAR ANTI ROLL BARS - huge improvement in cornering - dpmperformance strut brace - subtle improvement on cornering when surface wasnt smooth - less chatter michelin ps4 then ps5 tyres - great performance dry and in wet hunter 4 wheel alignment every 2 years or so - brilliant improvement in handling powerflex engine mount - some increased NVH but really cut down on wheel hop/axle tramp turbotechnics turbo inlet hose boomba racing - 2015 + Volkswagen GTI Blow Off Valve Adapter [BOV], 2015 + Volkswagen GTI Short Shift Transmission Adapter, boomba racing - MK7 GTI Short Throw Weighted Shift Knob - 440 Grams obdeleven - fantastic bit of kit - programmed lots of stuff including free cornering foglights and high beam assist turboback scorpion exhaust, well a prototype one via their ebay shop. sounded good but needed to add some acoustic matting on bootfloor..... 40" O2 Oxygen Lambda Sensor 4 Wire Extension Harness for VW Audi Golf MK7 Passat - from ebay usa for the above exhaust to stop it throwing codes.... enabled smartlink for android auto use via dealer upgraded LED bulbs all around front, rear and inside boot - the foglight ones looked the best! honeycomb front grill black skoda logo badges front and rear - expensive to have them colour coded but they looked really good! upgraded front discs/pads from mtech brakes really enjoyed tweaking the car, sorry to see it go but have moved on to another estate, with dsg/4motion and a few more toys - arteon shooting brake R

it was done under warranty, yes. So ended up not paying anything for it. But i did come across a couple of things before taking it to the dealer that might help you. https://mib-helper.com/ Putting in your SW train in here should tell you what the latest software for your system and provide a download link for it. Also, there's an old thread on the Skoda Scala forums where people mention they updated their softwares themselves. I know it's for a different car and system but maybe it this might help. I haven't tried it myself but people on there seem to have done it with no issues so would have to tell you to try it at your own risk. Hope this helps and saves you taking it to the dealer and paying that ridiculous amount!

Those rims on facebook won't fit the Fabia, because they have a 5/112 hub centre bore. Fabias use a 5/100 hub centre bore, so 5/112 won't fit. Those 15" alloy rims are in the VW Golf parts catalogue, as shown below. 1K0601025CA Aluminium rim BRISTOL 6.5Jx15 ET50 5/112 57.1 1K0601025CA 8Z8 Diamond silver https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/GOLF/474/6/601/601050 The biggest front brakes fitted to the Fabia MK3 are 288x25mm, so 15" rims will fit all models. The specification of the 16" wheels on the Fabia MK3 is 215/45R16 7Jx16 ET46 5/100 57.1 The specification of the 15" wheels on the Fabia MK3 is 185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 Skoda has a competitively priced "alloy rim accessory catalogue". Often these will be the same alloy rims as the factory ones, but with a different OEM part number cast into them...and a consequently much lower price. The four different styles of 15" alloy rims for the Fabia MK3 shown in the Skoda accessory catalogue weigh between 7.5kg and 8.3kg. If you make a note of the OEM part number shown for any of the alloy rims shown in the Skoda accessory catalogue, you can order them from any VAG parts department. For example, 5JA071495A 8Z8 is the OEM part number for the "Propeller" alloy rims. 8Z8 is the associated 3-digit colour code, and means silver. Fabia MK3 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims (from the Skoda accessory catalogue) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A15%22%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIII%2B%282014%2B%29# As well as the standard 185/60R15 tyre size, you might also want to consider a slightly oversize 195/60R15 on those 6J rims as this would not only give an even better ride, but better protect the alloy rims from kerbing damage (because the sidewalls will bulge out about 3mm more each side, compared to the narrower 185/60R15 tyre size). See the chart below for the actual inflated tyre width of these two tyre sizes when fitted to a 6J rim width. Notice that the actual inflated width of the tyre isn't usually the same as its "nominal" width. The "nominal" width is what's shown on the tyre's sidewalls. The actual inflated width of a tyre always depends on the rim width to which it is fitted. Actual inflated tyre width 185/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 201mm Vredestein Quatrac 195/60R15 88H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7993p202144/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_195_60_R15_88H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Another option is 15" rims from the Fabia MK4. These are 0.5" narrower than the Fabia MK3 rims. so would not only better protect the alloy rims from kerbing damage but give a slightly better ride. These "Hadar" rims are only 7.2kg each, so are a little lighter than the Fabia MK3 alloy rims. 185/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim would give a similar amount of protection from kerbing damage as a 195/60R15 fitted to a 6J rim. As you can see in the chart below, the 185/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim width is 12mm (about 0.5") narrower than a 195/60R15 fitted to a 6J rim width. So although the 185 tyre is now 0.5" narrower than the 195 tyre, the rim it is fitted to is also 0.5" narrower...meaning that the sidewalls on the 185 and 195 tyres both bulge out from the alloy rim about the same amount...resulting in a similar amount of protection from kerbing damage. Actual inflated tyre width 185/60R15 fitted to 5.5J rim 189mm 185/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 5.5J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 201mm For ultimate ride comfort and rim protection 195/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim could be the way to go. The one very minor disadvantage with fitting a 185/60R15 to a rim with an ET40 offset is that it moves the centre of the wheel 2mm inwards compared to the standard ET38 offset, so by using the slightly wider 195/60R15 this very minor problem is completely negated. In fact some markets used a 195/55R16 tyre size on a 6Jx16 ET40 rim on the Rapid (which was based on the Fabia MK3)...so using a 195 with an ET40 offset on this chassis has already been done by Skoda. Fabia MK4 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 alloy rim shown in the "Skoda accessory catalogue" https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIV%2B%282021%2B%29%3ArimDiameter%3A15%22# Alcar 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Wheel trim for 15" steel rim (from Fabia MK4) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-calisto-15/p/6VA071455

"No smoke from exhaust that I've noticed but it's burning through oil (at least 5 litres in the last few months)" Burning that much oil through the valve guides would have been very visible unless a huge mileage has been done. Several months of use also diminishes any responsibility that the garage might have, having the valve timing checked would have been a very good idea when the vehicle was returned running rough, low on power and stalling, having it done now would indicate if they had made a mistake but that would have no bearing on oil consumption, also to further muddy the waters it sounds like another garage may have replaced the MAP sensor.

Thanks, i get it now

Just watch the above youtube video that I posted above. Basically, after you have clean the old adesive, you will use the napkin to clean the surface and afterwards, you will break the stick and put some of that on the car surface. This is a glue primer, something like that. Is better explained in the above video 🥂

Without further evidence, its difficult to guess what was or not done. The OP keep talking about a cambelt when any 1.2 engine of that era is a camchain. She said they replaced a couple of bent pistons, pistons dont generally bend, a conrod might but unlikely, Valves will definitely bend due to the angle they hit the piston crown.

Maybe living in France you don't have the same protections as us. Section 75 protection is a uniquely British credit card thing enshrined in the Consumer Credit Act 1974. And they must listen. https://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/consumers/complaints-can-help/credit-borrowing-money/goods-services-bought-credit

I am really not sure what I am looking at in the photograph or should be looking for but if you can see that the boot floor is buckled then a vehicle of such low value will be written off for it and it really is not worth them spending the money for an inspection which will undoubtedly confirm that. It is absolutely fixable if you are competent, uneconomic if you have to pay someone given how much the insurers will want for you to retain the salvage, given where it is photographed you have long ago dropped your trousers and lost any control of the situation and hoping for a reasonable payout. Keep your eye on the Copart Auctions and the DVLA vehicle records and you will probably see it back on the road, you may even be able to buy it back once repaired as a Cat S or Cat N but the repairs wont have been done regardless of cost, quite the opposite. 💡I think that I know what I am looking at now, is the photo of the spare wheel cover taken from inside the car? Can you confirm from what angle? I think it may be from the open OSR door looking towards the NSR door? If I am correct then they have pushed the floor covering forward to create a hump to justify their narrative, there is no way the impact damage transmitted by the rear bumper has caused that sort of deformation. But when all is said and done its 100% a write off, it will be sold on for 40% plus of their valuation. So take their value, deduct how much you paid for the 2 years insurance (which includes the 6 months that is lost when they write it off), deduct the excess they have retained, deduct how much you new insurance will go up, deduct the 40% + they will get for the salvage and you will see that its cost them very little and its in their interest to write off rather than repair.

Make sure the credit card company know about this; it's definite proof beyond reasonable doubt that the engine work was not carried out to an acceptable standard.

If engine valves were damaged by the failure of the camchain, the valves and associated gear would have had to be stripped and repaired or replaced - to do that, the valve springs and stem seals would have had to be removed from the cylinder head. Did you receive an itemised invoice listing all parts used for the original repair - are you able to post it on here?

Hey guys, another option is to use 3-seat bench. I have a friend with M3 and his 3 kids fit inside perfectly. It looks safer for me than using the upper tether point. It looks quite neat as well

Not all that is needed, fluency in 3 letter acronyms is essential to have even the slightest clue what the above means. Any chance of a glossary of terms? I am guessing that V2G is voltage to grid? and V2H is voltage to home? Or is V for vehicle? As for the rest, no idea!

Indeed, the whole set up really feels like a house of cards. You might have the latest Infotainment software version installed but if a specific module that handles, for example, the SOS system, cruise control, parking sensors, engine management (the list goes on) is “faulty” then it becomes a paid for update. The dealers seem to just apply updates on a wing and a prayer hoping it fixes a reported problem without really understanding how the whole software / firmware eco system works together.

Water pump and timing belt on opposite ends of the EA211 engine, so there never has been any need to change both together. New guidance of 140k miles and no time limit for cambelt applies.

Not to mention also, the massive amount of work that needs to be done to the grid to enable the capacity and connections to the charging stations, when as you rightly point out, we already have the filling stations there serving liquid fuel.

Two from a couple of gated field roads not far from where I live, second is just over the county border, quite a few similar roads in Northamptonshire plus other great country roads for Spridget driving. September 2020 Northamptonshire May 2020 just in Warwickshire

There's an air duct behind the head unit, that would transfer the noise to the upper vents. Checked the schematics and I was wrong saying that everything's disconnected with fuses out - the stereo's fuse is on the device itself and its input is always live.

You sir, are a star!! It was indeed the culprit. If I pushed it back in just enough to connect I could quite clearly hear the noise coming from the stereo - but as soon as I pushed it back iin fully, then sound then seemed like it was coming from the blower. I gues the vibrations or something was transferring or amplifying the noise. Any way thanks all for the excellent help.

Imagine how it would be if you 500+ HP on tap in an EV on tap, you could perhaps burn out a set of tyres with ease and also a possible reason for the insurance on EV's being much higher than for an ICE vehicle?

Took all of 30 seconds on Google… [email protected].

Mine isn't going to get any 97/99 stuff, it's far too expensive for the minimal "benefits".

Unfortunately not I more or less gave up. I attempted the fix @Doily suggested but there was still water pooling in the boot. I am also wondering currently if there are other problems occuring as there is what I believe to be an abnormal amount of misting considering the amount of water. Not a fix at all but I'm just trying not to drive the car when it's particularly cold or wet...

1.2 (either the 4 cylinder tsi or 3 cylinder htp) engine is a camchain and not a cambelt engine. I imagine there was lots of damage when the chain jumped or more likely left the sprocket completely. The head damage could have be extensive, bent valves, damaged seats, stem seals, hydraulic tappets, camshaft followers, carrier bearings. There's usually a loud rattle (on start up) before a chain goes, a warning that its slack, but that's in the past now. First should be a compression test.

You still haven't said what engine you have. Petrol/diesel, capacity, engine code if known. If the problems started immediately after the rebuild then its obvious they didn't do a good job. Damaged pistons, bent conrods, bent valves, seat/stem damage, cylinder wall damage, even crankshaft all possible. Should all have been checked and a compression test done after a rebuild. Who did the work, is there any warranty?

+1 to remove the A-pillar trim and run the dashcam wiring along the existing wiring loom. It is easy to tuck it under the A-pillar trim and just run it down to the side of the glovebox fuse panel, but that will likely fowl the curtain airbags from deploying properly. The A-pillar trim is a pain in the behind to get back in but it's the proper method. This is mine, in the process of cable tieing the dashcam wiring to the existing wiring loom next to the windscreen, away from the airbag (white).

To me, a safe way to route the wire (or video cable if a dual dashcam) along A-pillar is to remove the trim and then to fix the wire/cable to existing harnesses with tie wraps. This way it can't cause an issue if airbag needs to deploy.