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No, with the specific original file. I will post the link. I don't know if it is OK by the forum rules. If it isn't please tell me to delete it immediately. Update size is almost 10Gb MIB3OI_1969.txt

The only time I change to P is when the car is fully stopped, handbrake on and then I move to P as I switch off the engine. P (Park) engages a lock on the gearbox, you never want to do that with any momentum of the vehicle as you could damage the gearbox. The keys won't remove if not in P. So vehicle stopped, handbrake on and a direct single move from D to P. I don't pause at N, just move direct. I have never noticed any clonk.

And yet I'm mostly blinded by modern SUVs

My statement you quoted was accurate at that time but in Jan 2019 my 1.4tsi water pump failed and had to be replaced by the dealer. It was more expensive and complicated experience than it should have been but we were having traumatic and ultimately fatal family illness at the time so no will to contest. Fortunately they did give us a new Fabian loan car which ran up a big mileage on while being impressively economical despite temps in the low 40's and aircon working overtime.

My rule of thumb is, while driving on a flat level road if your headlights light up the number plate on the car in front then:- Your headlights are to bright. Your headlight aim is to high. Your too close to the vehicle in front. Or a combination of the above. Thanks. AG Falco

There's an irony that the "Simply clever" ice scraper, that the marketing people banged on about, can end up being locked behind the "simply stupid" design of the fuel cap! 🤣 Cheers

x 2.

Had my Octavia since February 2017 and 11 miles, now approaching 78000 and keep thinking about chopping it in but its been so reliable and again I don`t like all the modern stuff and big screens on cars nowadays. Driven Kamiq, new Octavia and Enjaq and Karoq as courtesy cars and none of them have wowed me enough to part ex.

Hi, i just did the update to the 1969 version. Finished successfully. I didn't get to see anything about the new version, I just installed it. I will update as soon as I use it for a few hours and I have impressions.

Actually those speakers are very capable, and it's relatively easy to achieve strong, deep bass in car due to it's size (low volume/low amount of air that needs to be moved). In my case another improvement been brought be adding external amplifier. Used Axton 592DSP. Cannot find my (rough) measurements, but by ear it goes below 30Hz, which is enough for me (mostly listening to rock and metal, so not much going on below this). It's also loud enough, and can be tweaked by using DSP in the amp. Edit: found measurement screenshot. This is done using Android Audio Tool, and never learned how to make really good measurements, so it doesn't have any smoothing, it's very raw. Measurement taken using UMIK-1 mic. As you can see it can go really low, and by tweaking amp's DSP result can be really good. I prefer it this way, as most subwoofers doesn't really give you that quality of bass, that control (which in case of Focal's combined with Axton is really great, even metal that according to many is recorded poorly, sounds really great). Subwoofer will give you quantity, which might be desirable with some genres of music.

The car should be stopped and the foot firmly on the foot brake. The Hand / Parking Brake does not need to be applied before selecting P. Many vehicles have an E-brake now and it might not be applied before the shifter is in to P.

Spark plugs are an additional item so I think they expect you to book it in yourself. As for servicing with Henry’s North I got my car from them but did all the services myself at a fraction of the cost.

It's gone live (not sure when) with a starting price of £26,775. https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/ First Edition SE Technology SE L SportLine Hatch and Estate No brochure showing yet. Available to order April 10th

One month into ownership I did a 300 mile each way trip so a total of 600 miles. Started full, 1 stop for 20 minutes to get to 80+%, use a loo, grab a coffee and a panini each way. Was lucky enough to find a destination charger and add 20% there, but it wasn’t needed. I used to do that same trip regularly in a diesel and actually the EV might have been a little quicker as I planned a stop rather than when I fancied. it’s much of a muchness IMHO

@classic was it 1.4TSI ACT,s that you did like @LS8Pilothas? Anyone having the cambelt done or asking someone for the cost of the cambelt be sure that they know it is a 1.4 TSI ACT and not just a 1.4TSI. (If you have a 1.5 TSI ACT be sure they know that is what you have, but Skoda,s do not just come with a 1.5TSI)

it will have lost most of that value just being driven off a main dealers forecourt, this is the way ;o) Hang on 16 months? Have I entered a time warp? Aug 2023 was only 9 months ago??? Oh it was new in Jan 2023 and you bought it in August 2023 Got it

As I said, to be honest, it doesn't bother me as I have never noticed it before. I normally use postcodes and have never had a problem with finding my destination, either with the postcode or name of the place i want to go to.

Yep, I bought one of these link not perfect, but better than the ones that came with the vacuum

The problem and its solutions have been discussed on a 2-page thread here:

I recently had to repair a broken grill and was told it would need a whole new bumper as it was all integrated. They only came in a base colour so would need a respray too so a broken grill could run into more that a grand to repair ! Simply Clever ... I'm sure there could be an entire topic on these things 🤣

lol exactly! Have you ever tried changing a front indicator bulb on an Octavia 3? Needs bumper off, cluster removed, the buld is behind a sealed pastic housing that needs to be melted to get access then you need to buy a cover kit to cover the hole! Ridiculous!

Interesting, it fitted my previous 2015 Octavia 3 estate and fits my 2016 Octavia 3 hatch?

Because once you've had good LED lights on a dark twisty country road I could never go back to halogens. It's like electronics handbrakes, I could never go back to a manual one.

I think that I'll wait for the OTA update to happen this time, the system is working well and not causing any issues, the only reason I manually updated last time was to eradicate the number of crashes that the system was experiencing.

Thanks for the comments. It was a company car and has a full service history (don't think it was Skoda main dealer). I briefly looked at the service history and did see the spark plugs had been changed. It's done 73,246 miles. I can ask them to send me a copy of the service history to check all the things have been done. Thanks again

That's interesting, still a mystery how my car ended up with such an old OCU software in the first place. Perhaps it had been replaced at some point. I haven't got a confirmed copy of the 88 software for first update but I will see what the seller says first.

I cannot find any rules that the section with the country identifier has to have a blue background You have an identifier UK in both images and one flag above it which is correct. https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-identifiers-and-stickers So i would expect them to be legal assuming the tiny print on the plate identifies who supplied them.

Calmed down a tiny bit and looked at the left side: The workshop manual cites both this and the radiator on the right need undoing, so again, tried it for this side connecting to the additional radiator, undoing the clamps but again not freeing. However, the hose spring clamps were much more accessible: Once the clamp was loosened and wiggled down the hose, took the pliers and squeezed on to the hose and rotated it. What I've normally experienced is that once the hose starts to rotate from its stuck position, it'll then be more easily removed, even if that still entails things like pry bars. So some of the coolant is now out, but I'll need to tackle the main hose. Once I get a spare moment, I'll probably remove the hose which I guess is for the intercooler, to see if that gives my more room to tackle that troublesome hose clamp. I'm super loathed to buy a remote hose clamp tool for this one hose, as I won't be using the tool again (or will I?). I'll probably source some JCS hi grip hoses to replace these, as these will be the ones I'll be using for future coolant drains. I tried to free the right suspension strut: But like an idiot, tried to do this with the hope that'll just come out. Alas, it's one of those cars where it'll need compressing or things disconnected and out of the way. So I'll have to source some driveshaft bolts by the looks of it to disconnect it from the hub. I also rather cackhandedly: I suspect my attempts to lower the hub to try and get the strut out have damaged the level sensor. Completely my fault as these should be undone in the first place. So another thing I may need to source. This arrived today: A rear anti roll bar. According to eBay and the label: From a 2019 Audi RS3? Why not? Hopefully it fits. Normally, what I would have done is taken out the old one and at least visually sized it up, but couldn't really do that. Decided to take a punt on this because: If it's from an Audi RS3 maybe it'll be a bit stiffer, so maybe some handling benefits? Looks in really decent nick, only a few scuffs that could probably just be fine with some Hammerite or whatever. Bushes, clamps and links are attached, so pretty much a straight swap if it fits. It was £35 So as long as it goes in, I think it'll be worthwhile. Maintenance: £1841.50 (+£35.00) Upgrades: £1020.69 Miscellaneous: £631.67

Fuel Flap Door Release

None Stage 3 I had is allegedly 184hp from 108 standard, they have a rolling road video on their website, me I am sceptical of all BHP claims and rolling road readouts, I doubt the maximum power is that, I never thrash it anyway but the overtaking torque and rev range are night and day different compared to standard and fuel economy is excellent because I dont drive it for the thrill. The far wider rev range and torque means you only need one gear for overtakes, with a 6 speed box its not easy to know the optimum gear when you no longer drive like the road is a racetrack, if its one gear too high (in retrospect) the huge torque will cover it, if one gear too low then the extended rev range means you dont need to upshift.

It's a lot of words because other people coming here to read these things get it wrong. And the reason they get it wrong is because people do not explain things. Regardless, you should have 14 days to withdraw from any credit agreement (legal cooling off period), but you may lose any credit incentives like free services / warranty etc. that comes with the finance. The T&Cs could be completely different to those that VWFS have for their agreements. The OP is clearly asking about settlement. You've replied with an answer about cancellation. That's confusing as hell for anyone wishing to know about settlement.

Check out the clear instructions on p26

@aubrey Very many thanks for the clarity of your reply. Much appreciated.

Sveiks! as i have read, assistant cameras were changed in Mk3.FL version and coding were possible for Mk3 also they work differently -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/?do=findComment&comment=5746167 by first connect by some OBD device and read what hw version does your car got, then google with that part code. before 2022.02.24 i used to Drive2.ru for huge amount of info about different improvements, now i'm avoiding it as possible in theory, coding can void warranty for touched parts, but several warranty cases were rejected for other reasons, dropped, ~30mm, suspension because car has got sound deadening rear air vent because it were touched . . . click on links in my signature

When checking using my Superbs details

I have DCC on my octavia rs. it really makes a difference when I selected comfort mode - the ride quality on highways and over street bumps are more comfortable. I strongly recommend that you keep this option. If you don't take the leather/suedia seat, I think you can find an upholstery shop in your area that can install leather replacement at a lower cost although I think the quality won't be the same. Not sure if fabric seat comes with power & memory function - it does offer the benefit of mirror dip during reversing. But it's not a deal breaker function IMO

More likely dealers doing a half-arsed PDI in UK......in France I've hardly ever been dazzled as over here

Is the digital dash the narrower one - basically I think it just has one "dial" in the middle? I didn't like that at all when given an SE courtesy car. The old twin dial non-digital dash in ours is lovely and clear. the Karoq spec is a bit weird in this respect - even the facelift SE-L only gets the 8" display. Yet the bigger one was standard on daughter's SEL Kamiq. Does the newer one have lane keeping assist? Drives some people bonkers - my neighbour hated it so much he sold his car back to the local Skoda dealer and bought an older one. It can be turned off with a couple of button presses, but has to be done every trip. I assume the older car doesn't have it but check that - our 22 reg SEL doesn't but the specs did change a bit during Covid.

Are the headlights are higher up on SUV's? Thanks. AG Falco

i since had a mini brainwave and it cost nothing, i figured in my situation the cups seemed to sit too deep so i just raised the platform by putting something under it and it seems to have made a difference

Simples really. If you can only Public Charge and only at expensive public charging then really a BEV is not for you. 'Just say no.' Or just say no to ridiculous charging providers prices. If a business users and maybe charging between cheap off peak and you have the Tax Breaks from the HMRC & the employer pays for charging for business use then maybe fill your boots. If the bosses get Teslas and can use Super Chargers and go no place and you have to do loads of miles in a Non Tesla an have rubbish charging speeds ask them WTF they are on.

I have the same issue, Can't get a manual in Aus any more, don't like all the mandatory safety assists, don't like or need big screens and only Chinese (mostly crappy) built cars are affordable. Apart from shopping mall scars our 2014 low mileage Octavia drives as new so we are sticking with it.

And the charging game changes..... 30 chargers now at Frankley Southbound, let have same at Noth bound please. Half are TESLA version 4 chargers that can be used my non TESLA, price was 59 p per kWh too... (I still like the 22 kW AC should say Zoes only perhaps).

Sorry, might be too late for this to have any affect if OP was going to the garage on Friday, but just for the record.... 😲 After everything that's been written, why are people still getting this sooooo wrong? If there's a Briskoda Admin person reading this, perhaps it would be a good idea to have a post re: early PCP settlement that people can refer to rather than folk like me having to correct misleading information. Everyone: If you CANCEL a PCP arrangement then as with any finance agreement, under UK law, the Consumer Credit Act allows 14 days to withdraw without penalty ( commonly known as the cooling off period ). But the OP does not want to cancel the agreement ( few people do ), he want's to SETTLE the agreement, that's to say he want's to fulfill it. Under a PCP arrangement, you can settle the agreement at anytime - forget all about the 14 days cooling off, it does not apply to settlement, only to cancellation. If you cancel an agreement then any incentives would have to be paid back. If however you settle an agreement, you keep the incentives, regardless of when you settle. OP - check with the dealer who the finance is with, but if it's a VW Group dealership then there's a good chance it's VWFS. And yes, VWFS provide PCP finance on used cars... https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/car-finance-options/helping-you-choose/financing-used-vehicles.html I haven't used VWFS to settle an agreement since 2020 and I believe they still work in exactly the same way: 1. Take out a PCP agreement, 2. Give it a couple of days, couple of weeks, couple of months, couple of years - whatever you want then log in to your online account with VWFS and request a settlement figure. 3. If it's after a few days, the only additional payment should be an administration fee of around £20-£30. Now I say should be, but I'm not up to speed with current T&C. The reason I'm hesitant is I bought a Toyota back in August and did exactly the same as I've always done with VWFS however they hid behind some ambiguous statement in their T&C that said a charge may be applied according to government rules. Well a charge was applied - about £600, but nobody could tell me those government rules or how the figure was calculated. ( I'm still waiting to hear back from the financial ombusman on a ruling). Basically Toyota are saying we may charge whatever we like and don't have to show you how the sum was arrived at. They kept referring to the government website buy never divulged where on that website it mentioned anything about max. charges that can be applied. 7 months on and I've still never found them! Toyota Finance are the only company that I've come across who charge this fee for setttling a PCP agreement but I've a hunch if they get away with it, others may also apply a charge, so whatever finance agreement you're asked to sign, pay particular attention to the section on early settlement. Hope that helps.

Below 1.5 *oC and 55 miles using 50% of the battery, shows 51 miles range. It showed 3.3 miles a kWh up to the hills and 3.6 coming back. Plugged in to 3 pin at 13.08 says 100% will be at 21.33.

Hi, Norway here. Thank you for a very nice writeup! Detailed and elaborate. Didn't see this thread until now, but there is one little "fault" in your write up. As someone else commented in the thread, the engine must be running when you check the level, if you stop the engine and then tighten the sump plug, your box will be underfilled. Unless you are very fast when replacing fill device with sump plug. This method also leaves a lot of spill. The recommended method is to leave the engine running after it reaches temp between 35-45 degrees celcius, disconnect filling hose, let excess fluid drain until dripping, and then tighten the sump plug (hex14). That way the DQ250 will be correctly levelled with oil. Also one commentedm how do you disconnect battery and connect VCDS/OBD11. Simple answer is, you don't. Do all the job in the engine bay first (battery, tray, filter etc) and reconnect everything before you even start under the car. Some fault codes will be detected, but just erase all and ignore. They will disappear once you start driving (steering angle and esp will come up as fault). Followed the VAG procedures from Elsawin. I use a special filling pump and a adapter filling from bottom as specified from VW/Skoda/Audi. I paid 39GBP for it at Aliexpress. Removed air filter housing, battery and tray. All done within 1 hour using a carlift. Paid 65 GBP for a Febi complete set with 6ltr oil (891,- NOK) equals 65GBP), filter and sump plug from autodoc. Car has now 134'miles on the clock. I used OBD 11 to monitor dsg temp. Easier to use since it is bluetooth connected. Do have VCDS as well, but that cable is a pain when you have the car liftet above head height 🙂 Total price incl all parts and pump: 104GBP Last time this was done on my car in March 2022 at 116'miles the owner paid 280 GBP at a shop (Norwegian prices are pretty high) all included (oil, filter, plug and labor) So, prices for doing this has risen couple of last years. Now in 2024 it is over 300 GBP for the same job as in 2022. I replace DSG oil/filter on my DQ250 every 18'miles (30'km) approx. every 2nd year with my mileage estimates/use.

Main dealers will charge an arm and a leg to activate it. Do a search for a vw or vag retrofit they will do it for a fraction of the cost usually whole you wait. Had my Bolero done and it's brilliant having Google maps.

Skoda scala 1.0 tsi Stage 2 Custom exhaust Maxton design bodykit Lowered with st suspension Gold tec rims

the diffuser look amazing I was also not impressed by the diffuser as it was not aggressive enough. Top job DIY'ing it your self. also boot install looks clean