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I had my front left tyre blow out on a pothole recently along a wet motorway at 70mph (~112kph). The car continued in a straight line and I was able to pullover in a controlled manner without issue. Based on that, it feels there is more to your sons incident than your post suggests... Regardless, I would suggest contacting a legal representative who's familiar with Indian laws to see what your options are. I doubt many on this forum have many skills in that area

Don't bother with the timing belt and water pump change. You're at the point where the risk/benefit/cost equation makes it not worthwhile. Shop around for brake pipe replacement, after getting independent confirmation that it's even necessary. Plod on.

Usual 3 button fob locks and unlocks the doors as it should, but the tailgate only opens on the middle button, regardless of the others. So I peeled back the gaiter and lo and behold... looks like I need to do a bit of work here... and while I was playing electro, I had a look at the passenger door wiring because the mirror isn't working...two broken wires. I wouldn't have checked that if not for this brilliant forum!

first off, glad noone was hurt right that aside ,a tyre blowout can happen to any car at any time. Why the hell would anyone even think of blaming a car manufacturer??

Same thing, yes.

Original is definitely 7mm.

Multiple threads on this one, but it appears that Bosch have now released the revised Skoda Kodiaq rear wiper blade to fit the facelift MkI Kodiaq… Bosch A284H.

If you remove the oil filler cap. what does that look like?

@Natalie1982 As these guys say, you need a 7mm spanner for OEM bleed nipples. I would recommend trying to find a single hexagon (6 points only) ring spanner for this job because it's unlikely to slip and round off the head.

Agreed, it's a good move. On one of my previous Golfs, if the wipers were left set to intermittent and it was frosty or snowy overnight the motor would strain to move the stuck wiper blades. Chris

Hi @Deepa, I'm glad your son was unhurt by the accident. Am I right in thinking your main problem is that you do not have insurance cover for the accident, as that seems to be what you are saying in your post?

It did the clutch thing again yesterday but sorted it no problem... Also as promised photos of it in all its glory...

Let,s hope Politicians, Government and Government Agencies and Local Authorities, regulators and the likes are learning from these incidents.

Thanks nta16. The car is still available apparently after a no show yesterday, so going to grab a bit more information today before going to have a look.

A battery recycling plant ablaze. http://fenixbatteryrecycling.com

Welcome under these sad circumstances. The car was not at fault was it, your son was steering, the cruise control was only holding the cars speed. Did he maybe hit a kerb? Is there any indication at what speed the car was. That information will be available to the Police or Skoda / VW from the ECU. The only repair could be a rebody and that is unlikely with the damage of the components, engine, gearbox, suspensions, grill, lights, wheels etc. So the car is in your name if registered to you and yet you had not bought your own insurance cover for the car and you or your son to drive. Why were you allowing it to be driven on VW,s insurance?

If you get it solved, don’t be like him and post the fix/solution 😁

Have always reset mine while standing still after inflating and never had an issue in over 5 years .

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

In your phone Bluetooth settings disable SIM Access and see if it still works in hands free only mode.

If you open the tailgate you'll see how the shelf locates (I'm sure you've done this) and it's a matter of giving it thump with the flat of the hand each side and the shelf will detach (not forgetting the strings). Refitting, you put the rearmost cutouts onto the location lugs first, then the forward cutouts otherwise it's very difficult to fit. Hope that makes sense.

No depreciation so you are saving money in real terms. Risk the cambelt as it will cost more than the car maybe worth or just as much. When the time comes and it’s beyond economical repair a scrap type agent will come and collect it and put money in your account.

As you know with any old car you will have good and bad years in terms of how much you spend on them. As said if the timing belt is on time but not mileage if it was me i wouldn't get it done next year or probably even the year after that. Every year i keep thinking that my clutch might need replacing but it's still ok and mines on the original at 191k so i wouldn't worry about that.

If you are using the sat nav now, it means you have an original Skoda card. Only Skoda cards will work. You can download the new map update from the Skoda website, delete the old files from the card (back them up 1st) and install the new files.

Well, my Fabia has gone to the great scrappy in the sky. I now have a cheap Clio to keep me mobile until I find a good Fabia. Many thanks to all of you who offered such good advice over the last few years, I hope I can find a Clio forum half as good..

I’d go with langers on the more to that story than meets the eye theory. I honestly don’t know if cruise control would react to a tyre blowing out, but it could only do 2 things, either disengage or stay activated. Either way it isn’t driving the car your son was. From the pictures the right front tyre looks flat but otherwise intact so it didn’t blow out and doesn’t look like it ran flat for very long if it all.

Sounds like a good change made by Skoda as far as i am concerned. If i park when rainy, snowy etc and then get back to the car missing seeing the Parking Ticket or note giving me abuse for taking their parking spot i do not want the wipers starting. Or if there is maybe sand blown on the glass.

At least the ambulance station was just across the other side of the roundabout, that was handy, eh?

Any future planning applications for Battery Recycling Premises might only be approved for locations a bit isolated from other building and not near residential properties.

Thankyou I will try over the next few days. I was thinking maybe having them all replaced if I get the car back up and running will make life easier in the long run. Thanks again.

50mpg? lol

That is quite and accident to happen from a blow out at just 50 mph. EDIT. @Deepa is 80 km/h the max speed limit there? Looks a wonderful stretch of road. The type of road i might try to max out a car to see just what it can do. But that is just me, stupid and no longer young.

@J.R. The OP is posting about a Superb. I have reset the TPMS on Yeti and done it when the vehicle was stationary. It can take several miles to register and might even need another attempt. I read owners manuals and remember what they actually say.

Yeah, you're right, I am using paddle shifters only when I am in individual, but M means Manual for sure.

Doesn't look like that is going to happen 😁

I know I'll regret it. I already am! As for the rear bumper, it comes with a free car! 😁

With Indirect TPMS, also known as Tire Pressure Loss Indicator, it uses the ABS sensors to determine each wheel's rotational speed. If one of them is off in comparison to the others, it will set of the TPMS alarm. Usually this equates to 4 psi or more. It can only do this comparison when the car is moving. If the pressures r the same, but the tires r worn out differently, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. If the brakes r binding, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. If one of the wheel bearings is worn, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. Hence there r multiple reasons for the TPMS to b upset. With direct TPMS, which is not available on the Superb, it doesn't rely on the ABS wheel sensors. Instead it has 4x sensors, one in each wheel, and a TPMS module (receiver). It measures the actual tire pressure, which gets displayed on screen. As @MartiniB indicated, there is the option to fit an aftermarket TPMS system, to monitor ur tire pressure live. in my case - I retrofitted the VW/Skoda TPMS system.

It has to be set when stationary. that is at a standstill. Ignition on. As was pointed out to @J.R. last time he gave the duff gen.

Agree with Danoid’s experience: Mine will only reset at standstill. Message something like “ function not currently available” if I try to reset while moving.

When was the brake fluid last changed and the system bled? Get a different manual; I've never owned a car with disc brakes that didn't have a servo.

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience.. I think it's the very thin metal, plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

A little spoiler....

Back to being my daily driver now, since the Vectra disgraced itself and left me stranded... yet again. Thin ice, it might see the summer out with me before it goes up for sale. Fabia is on nearly 90,000 miles now, and lapping it up well. Took it (and the mrs) to Stirling last week as well. It's running really smoothly at the moment, not perfect, but it'll get there. I've got a proper THUMP coming from the front driver's side suspension, only if it takes a bump really hard or by surprise, it'll crash over it. No idea what yet, but suspect shock absorber. I've got more I want to do with it, just waiting for better weather and all that.

Deposit taken. And it's staying in the Brisky "family" 🙂 Cheers, Steve

One of the things that I use mine for is keeping an eye on its movements when it's being serviced. When its moved out of the service building, I know that it's probably time to go and collect it rather than waiting another three hours for the service receptionist to phone me and tell me that its ready. Remote locking/unlocking is a really handy feature too.

After 6.5 years, decided to change Gandalf's personality. Really pleased with how these turned out, and the fitment is spot on. Rotiform LAS-R 19x8.5 ET35 Matte Black finish.

The ultimate hoon machine.

If you have matrix headlights push stalk away from you to turn on auto high beam basically the car decides if lights should be dipped or high as camera can turn sections of the lights off so you dont dazzle oncoming traffic or cars you are following. When I have to go into office my commute involves a couple of unlit country lanes you have to have faith but never been flashed and you can actually see sections dip either side of the car, other morning followed a golf down lane and could see the cut out around their car where it had auto adjusted the light sections down - work of the devil but amazing tech😄 RCC49 means that you can code car so is always on and you dont have to push stalk every start up to activate it for that journey

Perhaps if you read the whole original post you'll find out.

Haynes has this to say about the cylinder head bolts and nuts: Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 .............................................................................................. 20Nm Stage 2 .............................................................................................. Angle-tighten a further 90° Stage 3 ............................................................................................... Angle-tighten a further 90° Cylinder head nuts................................................................................ 20Nm So the bolts get two sequential quarter-turns after the 20Nm stage. The nuts just get the single torque to 20Nm. I seem to remember there are different length bolts in some positions too, so be careful not to muddle them up.