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I'm not very experienced with the modern CR diesels but I have changed belts on old TDis. At least we have more confidence in what your mechanic is saying. If the belt is damaged but still intact as the car was still running hopefully it will be ok. But for it to be running badly it does sound like the timing had moved. So your mechanic needs to go through the diagnostic process. No body can really guess on here any better than you can. Rgds

I haven’t tried exFAT unfortunately and not sure why I decided to format to ntfs after fat32 didn’t work:) Well it sounds like both ntfs and exfat are supported and importantly the update didn’t brick anything

I can do you a good price on Tower Bridge...

As suspected, Skoda have found nothing wrong with the car 😐 I’m now going to have to try and work out exactly what causes it to try and avoid those same actions (so as to avoid a future accident). Oh and never buy a Skoda again!

Yes, I don't understand the logic of 'resetting' the TPMS once a year / 10k kms either. To me, TPMS seems like another unnecessary piece of 'tech'. As you rightly say, all 4 tyres could lose pressure over time and, if the tyres are all in similar condition, then I would expect any gradual pressure loss to be at a very similar rate. My guess is the real driver for TPMS is warning of a 'sudden' onset of a puncture. But in 50 years of motoring, I can 'feel' a sudden puncture long before it goes completely flat (ie ruins the tyre). My Sportline does not have smart tyre valve caps so obviously this type of TPMS does not measure pressure directly. The only way I believe it can do it therefore is by comparing the rolling diameters of each tyre and of course this will depend on tyre wear and (theoretically) on tyre loading. Anyway, I have dutifully done my type pressure checks again today and added a couple of PSI to each tyre according to my pressure gauge (Bourdon tube type). The need for a couple of PSI in each tyre is almost certainly due to the ambient temperature being a trifle chilly for early May! Have now reset the TPMS in accordance with the manual and on-screen instructions. Final message on screen showed "Tyre pressures saved". We'll see what happens.

It was on this forum. Not the octavia one. I've read it too. It was DIYer job with wood and carpet I give it to you, not that obvious to find it back with such a title... 😁

More wildlife at the local reservoir......

The longest awaited iPhone feature is here, native iOS notifications, and we couldn't wait to ensure it is enabled for BRISKODA! Briskoda.net is iPhone push notification ready (now). This means you'll finally get notifications on your phone, even when you do not have your browser open, to alert you of new content on followed items and more. A feature Android owners have enjoyed for a while... Guide Below (SAFARI ONLY) (Click Images to enlarge them) With notifications, you can have an authentic native app experience when members add our community to their phone's homepage. When you add our community to your home screen with the share button. Once it has been added, it looks and feels like a native app downloaded from the App Store. Open Safari and press the middle share icon at the bottom of the browser. And, click add to home screen. With Apple finally allowing native notifications and Briskoda.net mobile-ready UI, you can have a real app experience without needing a mobile app. Enabling Notifications Once this is added, if you wish to get push notifications, you will need to switch them on. Click on the item that has just been created to open your community (ensure you do it from the new application icon). Once there, go to the following location Menu->Bell Icon->Notification Settings At the bottom of the page, click to enable browser notifications under the "Push" section Make sure that you enabled your push notifications PER DEVICE!. Click ALLOW! Then go through what you'd like to be pushed to the phone. The one you want to set to PUSH will come up as notifications. iOS Settings Be sure to check your Notification Settings, you'll have a new app called 'BRISKODA'. And, that's it. To recap: To enable push notifications on iOS: Ensure you are using iOS 16.4 or newer Save the site to your iPhone's home screen via the share icon Enable push notifications via the option at the bottom of the notifications options page Ensure you have set some notifications to "+ Push" Make sure you haven't disabled notifications via iOS Settings globally or for the app icon if you scroll down the settings list in iOS.

"Never heard about it being acknowledged as a safety issue before. " Quite - this is because VAG/Skoda have a very good PR department and, as I said a couple of posts ago, the press and journalists don't want to rattle their bars. There was a brief early reference to trouble in this 2018 review from the Daily Telegraph ....... https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/skoda-karoq-smallest-czech-suv-long-term-test/ "........ And there's also an unpleasant emissions 'hole' in the engine fuel/ignition timing map just when you start off. Failure to rev it enough and the turbo gives up on you and the Karoq stumbles and staggers out of a junction in front of the oncoming Scania." Very little else was written about the issue, though there was a piece on Honest John's website in about 2020 ......... https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/advice/owning-advice/15-tsi-engine-issues/ I am just so surprised to learn that the problems are ongoing - that's 6 years now! It was said, a few years ago, that insufficient attention was being paid to the deficiencies of the 1.5tsi engine because VAG's engineering priority had shifted to EVs. The fact that so many punters are still buying the 1.5tsi is a great tribute to their PR folks' ability to keep a lid on the truth.

I've done factory reset about 7 times now to get my voice control working again. Primary user setup is nice and easy from 1961 as long as you have both keys Not noticed long time stats sorry. I thought they still reset after 99hours of driving like it did in mk3

In currently running rainsport 5 on my superb. Done about 6000 on them at the moment and there wearing well.

The Factory Reset is found in one of the CAR menus, just have both keys with you when you do it so that when it all kicks back in you can do the account stuff and introduce the car to both keys.

Purge with what? The only way to remove most of the air is to pull a vacuum and they don't do that because the tyre would unseat from the bead after contorting so much that the plies would break.

Best get a diagnosis and stop throwing parts at it. What was the pre gapped plugs you put in set at? Did you check then?

They were supposed to remove all the air, so I hope they did - they wouldn't let me into the workshop to see what's going on. Actually, my experience was that afterwards the tyres didn't lose pressure anything like as quickly. Also the nitrogen doesn't expand as much when hot, I recall reading somewhere + all the moisture in ordinary air filled tyres is absent with nitrogen. Anyway they fit nice green caps to the valves, which makes me feel smug.

Those Avons split through the tread grooves after only a few years when part worn ( at least did on daughters fiesta and have observed a few others at random) Uniroyal rainsports on our impreza and theyre excellent generally / good in winter as well as wet and dry- only “but” is that car doesnt do many miles so cant comment on wear rates on a bigger car like a superb. Comfortable and quiet because sidewalls and rubber are quite soft, and seem to be lasting as well as michelin pilotsports that were previously on. cant comment on the others sorry.

A for Audi (qv) are/were in one of the industrial areas just across Dumbarton road from the Clyde Centre.

Thanks again Just off to Timpson for a quote. If you Hear some screaming in Clyde Bank, That will be me 😭

@steveo1Thanks for the tip. But my AME engine doesn't have exhaust gas recirculation.

Thanks for your patience and assistance. I will try to do the job myself and let's hope it will go well.

SWMBOs Fabia has it but my Octavia doesn't - I quite like it as you can just put the key back in your pocket after unlocking - without the security flaw the full KESSY has.

@J.R. That is not what I said. What I said was that the issue was whether or not the sensor could be replaced without replacing the cat. Please stop misrepresenting my statements before I am forced to report you for doing so. Thankfully @Adinko understood me.

Sounds like the Home Screen(s) have been reset, possibly due to an update of maybe a bit of a glitch in the user profile. Sometimes if the iPhone doesn't connect the CarPlay icon/app appears as SmartLink. Use that instead and reconnect the phone. If that's not the issue, the you should be able to edit the home screens, a long press should bring up the edit screens where you can add and remove elements, and create additional screens. CarPlay and/or SmartLink should be available in there. All that typed from memory, hopefully I got it close enough...

Then might be worth asking in the Octavia 3 forum as you're more likely to get an asnwer there.

Interesting it recognised NTFS. ExFat is will also work fine and generally has wider compatibility across platforms and OS - hence why USB sticks generally come pre-formatted ExFat.

Ah Ah might be why, when you remove your current ones if they’re standard ones you’ll see the crescent I’ll be changing my fronts at some point and going with ate ceramics, fed up with brake dust these days

So the thieves drove the vehicle away using the key that you had left in the vehicle then. You were very lucky that the insurers paid out, did they know about the key being left in the vehicle? If not they may well do when the court case is heard.

I had the same question about 0w, and the answer I got from people was that they use 5w30 spec. I personally went for 5w30 Millers EE performance C3

Not so, look at the EU certificate of conformity and you will see all the wheel and tyre size combinations thatare approved to be fitted to your vehicle. My vehicle can run 205/55/16" (my winter wheels) or 215/60/16" "if you did not change the the wheel size the car would not be doing the speed your Speedo was showing" I doubt that one in a million owners of newer vehicles fitted with the approved tyre sizes has a speedometer that shows the exact speed the vehicle is doing, it would be on the cusp of illegality, all speedos have to over-read within prescribed limits, the lower one being the actual speed The speedometer over-reads on both sets of tyres, by about 8% on the winter ones.

Hi, this is the one I have in my basket just now, my Superb is a 2014 FL so I'm thinking this should be correct? https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJUWAaf There's others on the site, all quite confusing, some seem much cheaper and others seem to have different shipping options. I guess I just have to bite the bullet and try, I've got a few other things in the basket and all well under the £135 value for customs for a single order... cheers

Thanks for the help. I will try to find it

Lots of cars even only 6 months old have discs looking like that. Location location location. How or if roads are gritted / salted. What grit is used. That grit can be tougher than thc crappy discs on Skoda / VW group vehicles. Or Stelantis, BMW / MINI and others. Common denominator, European car manufacturers. Cheap parts, sometimes poorer than aftermarket cheap parts that do not corrode for the fun of it.

I will send it in a private message

Getting the pi in and working was a way to try to get around that. I work from home in a room that faces the road. Noise defintey changes on road conditions, the car sound faster when the road is wet for instance. And yes some cars sound faster than they are going. But some cars are phenominally over the limit and that is obvious. Often it's the same cars. I now recognise a few of them. A beat-up old Focus ST, a new Fiesta ST, Blue 3 series etc, I see these cars every day and have thought they were always too fast. Pi is proving it to some extent. We are getting more police presence on the road and most visits result in 3-5 referrals to procurator (so court appearance not just 3 points).

Is the supply to the cam turning off, or the cam turning off due to lower voltage?

I use mine to keep the phone cable and 12V charger tidy when not in use.

That Image has made me think. If there are no parking restrictions on the road a pair of transits (other vans are available) strategically parked to form a chicane might slow the traffic down ;o)

A for Audi, Bedrock Vw Castle Garage in Dumbarton (further out maybe but about 30 minutes from city centre by train; 4 an hour plus expresses in rush hour).

Somewhere on this forum I remember seeing a home made vario floor that a guy did on his Superb or, was it an Octavia? Personally I don't see the point of paying extra to get a smaller boot & a flat floor. Just give me the biggest boot possible. I don't care if it has a lip to the tailgate or the back seats I just want the space to get my stuff in & space for a full size of skinny spare wheel.

So after said quick bite, decided to do some more random things: This has been on the back burner for a while. I noticed this while perusing random things Skoda, and was genuinely interested to see if this thing fits: It looks a bit daft in its location on the Superb, but I'm sure looks less so on other cars. It's genuinely something I'm impressed with, the way the cap also acts as a funnel which will make filling up much less of a messy affair. It was £9.95 on eBay. These will end up on all the VW group cars. I'll need to reinstall the front wiper arms, but still noticed: The right washer nozzle is still looking like it is dribbling. Any ideas would be appreciated. If TADTS then I'll leave it at that. So for want of other things to do, got the replacement driveshaft bolts and attempted to tighten them up: It meant resorting to stabbing a screwdriver into one of the vents on the brake disc to act as a counterhold against the brake pad carrier. It worked though, and was enough to tighten to 200Nm. According the workshop manual: The bolts with the A suffix just need tightening an extra 90 degrees, so probably could have given it a go with the screwdriver holding it. I think I'll leave it once the wheels are on and its on the ground, as that'll feel a little easier in regards counterholding. Speaking of wheels: Couldn't see a reason why the rear wheels couldn't go on, so on they go. Used a small dab of copper grease on the wheel bolts, as they're pretty clean after the use of the tap and die. Used loads on the wheels and mating surfaces just in case. As the handbrake appears to be in place, was able to tighten the bolts to 120Nm. So I'll need to jack up the rear further in order to slide some ramps under, hopefully then lowering the wheels onto those ramps will then give me enough clearance to get under and do the last of the bolt tightening for the dampers. I think also the anti roll bars as well as I've forgotten those. There's very little left to do at least from a mechanical perspective. I'll pretend those errors aren't there for now and do some swotting up around those. Maintenance: £2293.89 Upgrades: £1332.92 (+£9.95) Miscellaneous: £697.20

Not sure if anyone has experienced the following? My VRS alarm started going off early in the morning and nothing I did would turn it off (very embarrassing ) even started the car and alarm still going. Eventually went off after 5 ish minutes. Called dealer who have checked and told me there is a fault (recall) with the locks and new ones need to be fitted. Apparently they don’t know which locks were fitted to which car and only know when there is a fault. Letting you know in case you have ever had any issues with locks/alarms it maybe worth having it checked.

Do they have the half moon on them? Or at least an arrow?

It definitely doesn't crash. It pauses and continues when the car is next switched on. I had a similar thing with an update last year. If you press "more info" it tells you there that power cycling the car, and moving away from the update screen won't affect the update and it will continue. I've not been offered 1969 OTA yet. In the last week I've had a couple of app updates, but nothing else.

Hello everyone, let me introduce James The Superb, our Superb Estate L&K 206/280, colour Raspberry Red. Ordered 08/2023 and delivered 12/2023. Immediately after the delivery I got it wrapped in Xpel PPF to protect the paint as well as underbody rust protected with Dinitrol. It also has a clear protective film applied on the windshield. I'd like to keep it long term so I decided to spend this additional money for the protection (already got a few nasty rocks hit the windshield on the motorway and so far it's holding). After the warranty expires I am looking into a few upgrades like ECU & TCU tune and Bilstein shocks.

So a few further updates: Areaview fully coded and 'working The coding for areaview is actually really straight forward, the hard part is the hardware and wiring. Gateway - Install list - Add 6C (same as reverse camera) Parking Sensor - Coding - Change to areaview camera type '20' 5F Infotainment - Adaptation - VPS_0x0B to activated Then all the relevent coding in 6C areaview (manual/auto, bodytype, make, model and such, same as reverse camera again) Dataset needs uploading to 6C - only datasets I have are tiguan, passat pre-FL, passat FL Calibrate the camera using vas721001 calibration mats and a diagnostic tool Now I was unable to calibrate the areaview as it keeps picking up errors on the front camera, both sides and rear are perfectly fine. The red lines means its detecting part, but not all it needs (turns blue when it finds all it needs) the yellow dots in the sky are things it thinks its looking for, so that gives us the next issue to work out why and ive narrowed it down to many things: The mats need to be wrinkle free Needs to be done indoors with uniform lighting to prevent sky issues The calibration mat isnt perfect as the forward white lines SHOULD go directly to the end. not stop short. The dataset currently on there is for a tiguan which has a different camera placement, i may try a passat pre-FL which is much more similar to my setup. The camera I have fitted is too low and not in a suitable location, could try lifting the car up level on bricks 2/3 inches or may end up having to change camera mounting location, yikes. All of these need to be worked out so i can fully calibrate the system and have a seamless image. Next up, the heated washer jets were coded, real straight forward: BCM 09 - adaptation - Window heater-Waschduesenheizung to active The heated steering wheel again was real straight forward and all done through HVAC 08 - coding: Byte 11 bit 2 - 1 (Enable heated SW) Byte 11 bit 3 - 1 (Enable multi-stage heated SW) Byte 13 bit 2-3 (Decide if you want it to auto come on with the heated seat or outside temp) The phone charger with antenna base again, very straight forward on coding, all in 5F infotainment - coding: Byte 15 bit 0 - 1 (Enable baseplate) Byte 15 bit 1 - 1 (Enable antenna amplifier in baseplate) Byte 15 bit 2 - 1 (Enable wireless charger) This came with a fault code - B156401 - Antenna for telephone mount, electrical error and working out exactly what this fault code relates to will be fun, the below are the options that need further diagnosis: My coding has a possible problem and im either missing something or wasnt meant to enable bit 1 My fakra cable from charger to amplifier is faulty My amplifier is faulty Amplifier not receiving power, ground or switch on signal Faulty charger or roof antenna (but both brand new so id hope not) Faulty fakra cable between amplifier and roof antenna The USB hub was next, this added a second USB port in the centre console that is fully supportive of carplay/android auto and everything else and coding was very simple again, all in 5F infotainment: Byte 19 bit 6 - 1 Byte 19 bit 7 - 1 (Both of these will already be on if you have a carplay/android auto USB port) 5F Adaptation - Interface for external media activation - connection 1 → activated Interface for external media activation - connection 2 → activated Straight forward and no faults with this, fully working and no issues! The TV tuner was next, now this im only half way through sorting and have yet to disable component protection which means i cant currently see anything and my TV list only shows liverpool tv, so something is very very wrong here but im yet to work it out. There are no faults for any open antennas or such, which is a very good start! The coding so far is as follows: 5F infotainment - adaptation: Gateway component list: TV Tuner - enable TV_tuner_0x2C - enable TV_tuner_0x2C_msg_bus - currently not sure, possibly Terminal 15? menu_display_tv_tuner - enable Gateway - installation list - 57 TV tuner Now with this coding I have no fault codes anywhere except component protection, which is a good start! Im yet to fiddle around and see if anything works on this side so when i find time ill do this In preparation for the DCC retrofit, A custom gateway FPA dataset is required, this now gets a small bit complicated. So a lovely gent managed to decode the entire gateway dataset to allow reverse engineering. The only issue, you need to have a gateway with at least version Q, mine was C. I thought id give it a go, so first I intercepted my own dataset from ODIS for version C of gateway, when looking at it under a HEX editor you could see the differences already between a version C and Q dataset. Namely the section that holds the FPA data starts at address 0B80 on a Q dataset and is exactly 4352 bytes. On my C dataset the address with 4352 bytes started at 0320 which is NOT 0B80, this is an issue. I tried picking out the individual bits I needed but this was no good. Annoying as I would of prefered to make small changes to my current dataset instead of creating one from scratch. Next I scrapped the idea and started from scratch and began using the FPA editor to create a dataset - http://www.mqbtools.nl/fpa/ Once this dataset was done, I couldnt upload it as its only suitable for Q and onwards software. So the gateway module now needs an update! There are two paths for 19 gateway modules that are 3Q0907530 - Lear and Continental. Both have the same suffixes for hardware and software but are NOT interchangable. If you do that, youll brick the module. So as I have continental (can read through diagnostic or physical checking label) I know that my software numbers start with 5, whereas lear start with 4. So my continental software was C - 5287 (Lear C - 4287) and I needed to get to at least Q - 5344 (Lear Q - 4344) (With gateway, as long as its a valid software, you can flash forward, backward, skip some, do whatever. No risk of bricking) So I made the choice to jump to the newest version which is AC, or in full 3Q0907530AC - 5388 (Lear 4388) after this, everything worked perfectly except for loosing coding, adaptations and many fault codes..... I then used ODIS-E to reconfigure the coding and adaptations to what they were before, no issues here and now almost all the fault codes are gone and no more dash errors. The custom made dataset was then uploaded to the module (ODIS-E did not like this but still accepted it) as the checksum was incorrect, but still a valid dataset. The only additional coding to enable the DCC options to appear in profile selection was 19 - coding - FPA_Funktion_DR (DR for damper regulation) Everything is now working, but im left with a single fault code that there is no documentation on "00301 - 769 - C115531 - Analog measurement input, No signal" and although it causes no issues, This will be a seamless build with no faults left so i done some digging. I found a single other person who had the same issue and they advised I roll the software from AC to AA - 5366, I am yet to try this but I have acquired the software, so that will be my next test to see if it fixes it. The only saving grace, all datasets for anything from Q to AC are the same and can be uploaded with no issues. We currently have a working DCC slider and options displaying (but of course not doing anything until the coding for DCC and damper fitting)

OK so I know everyone is talking modifications, remaps and the ultimate performance, but today for the first time I 'launched' my standard, stock Superb 280 and was pleasantly surprised. Absolutely no drama, no wheelspin and a recorded time of 4.96 for a 0-60 mph

Oh 100%, When I started driving in 2001, the fuel price was so reasonable I never needed to keep an eye on mpg. That was until I got a Golf VR6. Mid 20's mpg was frightening, even hit 8mpg at one point! How manufacturers are able to do what they do nowadays is pretty fantastic

Helpful and hilarious. Keep it up, numpty!

Everything works as it should according to your description, except the lack of ignition pulses. Yet I would be careful with the method of testing for pulses. I would not use a test lamp but an oscilloscope. Then I would disconnect the ignition transformer and test again on the connector (in case the ignition transformer is shorted). Read my signature.

Thanks RickardoM. The engine is currently in the car and attached to the chassis. But I think I will take out the engine loom and fuse box so I can work on it in the evenings at home. I tryed to find a pic of the flywheel but I don't have any from a good angle so you can see the cut outs properly. But I have seen on another post a picture of the correct mpi flywheel and it looks the same as mine... It has the extra little slot in it. (ill get a picture soon) Thanks