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Usually another symptom of a failing battery which is why I asked

Who'd have thought it? (Well, we all would, I guess). The cars that are cults (msn.com)

Update: Worked fine and now EU version 2024/2025 in my Columbus of 2020 Kodiaq.

When you consider that micro processors control practically every single item in a modern vehicle, it's not surprising that spurious faults can get displayed when supply voltages start to drift.

Took the car to the Skoda Owners Club event today. Still work in progress, but getting there.

So got some parts of a wrecker mk2 and finally am bastardising a mk2 subframe into this. Few odds and ends, full subframe a mid body brace and some decent condition cladding for the middle, SDI didn't have them, vrs were broken and had a hole for a fuel cooler. These ones should be just right. Stripped and cleaned all up, wishbones looked ok but didn't use them. Used the spare wishbones with SuperPros castor Increase bushes, gave them a cleanup with the rest of the stuff. So like the monte the subframe and arms went Scania Chassis Grey. The brace went stone chip black. And the 20mm anti roll bar (size up from a vrs) I did something special with. Had some cayenne metallic in a can so sprayed it that. The results are fairly impressive for an evenings work. Did end up reusing most of the old hardware, Arb bushes were new and brackets were in decent shape so kept them for now. Will be getting new ball joints these are temporary. Good evening in all. Also put the vrs shell on a pallet to move it around. Works very well

TV tuner now fully working Lots of coding options for rear displays - Wonder if I could mount some displays in the sportline headrests.... hmmm - just something ill consider in the future. Got a few other issues that ive got to diagnose - A gateway fault with no details that wont clear! Its looking for something that doesnt exist so will need some more digging. Antenna fault for phone charger base - I assume ive wired something incorrectly on the amplifier for the antenna but need to look into it more Then the next part of the plan is the suspension, wheel alignment, a tyre, dcc coding and webasto pipe work.

The fault I had with my twindoor was that neither of the boot lid buttons would work and the only access I had was boot not hatch and only via the remote, after much fumbling and stripping down I discovered that the fault was broken wiring which runs through the left-hand side of the boot/hatch via the hinge to the roof of the car, there were no fault codes showing on VCDS. Once you understand it the twindoor system is not complicated, the main components are the usual centre mounted centrally locking boot lock, two electrically operated latches, one mounted each side of the luggage compartment, a bolt and hook assembly each side of the tailgate and the two boot lid switches. Boot or Hatch mode is determined by the position that the side latches push the tailgate mounted bolt/hook assembly into, activated by pressing the relevant button(s) on the boot lid. Pic below shows bolt/hook assembly exposed in hatch mode. The following is a rough guide with some pictures to assist anyone attempting this repair, I’m not an expert and someone with more knowledge may have hints on refining this guide. As only the boot lid will open the 1st task is to release the top glass part of the hatch from the car, this is done by removing the long torx headed pin from the side bolts on each side of the car, looking into the plastic covered hinge casing this is the bright metal pin pictured below. To do this 1, Remove the plastic trim button on each hinge cover (pic below) 2, unscrew and remove the side bolt retaining screw (pics show exposed head (tailgate open in this shot) and in situ (hatch closed) but without covers for clarity) Now using a large flat bladed screwdriver or trim removal tool lever the side bolt/hook away from the upper tailgate mounted bracket, this is fiddly and required some jiggling from side to side however once free on both sides the upper tailgate can be raised, the amount of clearance required is only a little more than the thickness of the body coloured tailgate bracket. Now recover the side bolt/hook components from wherever they may have fallen at each side of the car. NOTE MY PIC SHOWS THE PIN YOU HAVE JUST REMOVED STILL IN PLACE. Next remove the inner trim from the boot lid and the plastic covers from the upper part of the tailgate, on the upper part start with the horizontal trims then the side trims 1st removing the outer hinge covers (pic below), these panels just pull away from the tailgate except for a small screw on each inner hinge cover Working inside the boot lid release the wiring from its plugs, note the route and feed the wiring loom out of the lid through the hinge and free of the car to just past the damaged area, below are 2 pics of the wiring condition that greeted me! Plus stripped tailgate open. I repaired my loom but believe that a repair section is available from Skoda, the repair can just about be made without shortening the loom so much that it is strained at the boot lid connectors, when repairing the loom mark the wires carefully as some are the same colour! Refit and connect the wiring. Next you will need to close and lock the tailgate without refitting the side bolt/hook parts, this should lock the boot lid normally, now if all is well you should be able to unlock the boot IN HATCH MODE and the high level brake light will give its confirmation flash, this will position the side latches to accept the hatchback in its complete state when you have finished. See below 1, latch in boot lid mode, you won’t be able to close the complete tailgate in this position! 2, latch in Hatch mode Working with the hatch open refit the earlier removed screws and assemble the bolt/hook parts as shown below, note how the hook locks around the body coloured pin on the hinge, this locks the boot lid and upper glass into the complete hatchback. Now open and close via the boot lid buttons to confirm that all is working correctly, if it is the upper brakelight will give its confirmation flash and when closing the hatch you will hear its usual extra clunk as it is locked down by the side latches. Reassemble any removed trim, job done! Good Luck.

So I could have sworn the SportLine I had in a few weeks ago had a radio splash screen that said SportLine. That car was a 2017 with MIB2 Columbus. Not sure if this only affects the cars with Amundsen but apparently there are people out there who have SportLine Superb’s and the radio splash screen just has the normal ‘Welcome to Skoda’ screen like the late 2018 (MY19) car I had in yesterday. So if this affects you, coding is 5F Byte 18 and you change the value from 8 to 13 in text mode, reset the radio and boom! SportLine splash screen. You’re welcome 😁 Also coded other goodies like the seat comfort access with working radio toggle And 30 colour lighting with pre coding for RGB footwell lighting which is a retrofit that is coming soon!!

Make & Model: Skoda Superb Colour: Emerald Green Mileage: 36500 Price: £23999 Description: Comes with a Skoda extended warranty until 24th July 2025 and a free major service at a Skoda garage (included as part of the deal I received when buying the car). Reluctantly selling my Skoda Superb due to a new job where I need to have an electric car or lose my car allowance, so I cannot afford to have this sitting unused. It is a fantastic car; I spent a very long time looking for the perfect Superb, which I believe this is. It is in the uncommon Emerald Green, top spec L&K with optional extras of a reversing camera, retractable tow bar, and ventilated seats. It has a full service history and was MOTed on 28/05/24 so has a full year. It is booked in for a new MOT this week, so will come with a full MOT. If you would like to test drive the car, please come with your driving licence and FULLY COMPREHENSIVE insurance. I will not allow you to test drive unless you can show me both. I am happy to take you for a test drive. Also has hard-wired front and rear-facing dashcams. Condition: Very Good Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Full service history Extras: Reversing camera, retractable tow bar and ventilated seats Mods: None Shipping: Pick up from Kidlington, Oxford. Collection: Pick up from Kidlington, Oxford Pictures: <attach as many or as few as you want within the limits>

This is a fuel saving measure, nothing more, it's a similar system to that of the TDI. 1.8-2 Bar up to 3000rpm, 3.8-4.2 thereafter. There are suggestions that oil temperature and engine load also influence the changeover point.

I got an EV a few months ago, a Jaguar I-Pace. Prior to signing on the dotted line though I looked at a number of other options including the MGs and even briefly considered a BYD, all of which are significantly cheaper than the Jag and not much more than a decent spec ICE car. The estate I live on is largely a council estate, which is how I was able to afford to buy my house, and it does come with a drive. The estate I grew up on though was not a council estate but because of when it was built none of the houses have a drive. The issue around the drive is, IMHO less to do with how affluent a person is and more around the age of much of the UK's housing stock. There are parts of central London where house prices are lottery win money where there isn't a drive to park your car.

If it's a daily I definitely wouldn't, but as ever it's your money and your risk, for some reason @Ootohere is always trying to persuade people to do whatever he wants them to do, he has some kind of guru complex with twinchargers and craves the attention whereas I come from a more general tuning background and these engines and gearboxes have a deserved reputation for fragility. Your call.

I only maintenance wash myself by hand, fly by night handwashers are appalling never use one in over 10 years possibly as bad now are dealer m/c washes when in for service etc, I ask for the golf and fabia "not" be washed and they are good at complying

My Yeti was 7 years old and the value was still strong. I knew that at 8 years main dealers would just move it on as it could no longer be "Approved Used" so decided to trade it. My Yeti actually sold in 4 days at £18295.

His has lasted, and so has his DSG. Many have and benefited from a Remap and different consumables. Many are still running 14 years on, or 12 years on with a CTHE original engines and DSG,s and a remap.

http://rtmgperformance.com

AdBlue is AdBlue and there is no difference in brands. Who it comes from and what numbers VW give it matters not a bit. (The German Automotive Industry Association owns and licences the AdBlue brand.)

I used Autologics from Manchester, I'm in Ebbw Vale, and they came to me (on a Sunday!) at no extra cost. They're a bit cagey about fitting the camera with the washer jet, and i think they actually installed the right camera, but with the wrong water pipe., the one i've got is this one: The straight pipe in pics but the pipe that comes with the one from carsytems is a different one : the coiled one The straight pipe is too short to reach the junction at the wiper motor, but the coiled one looks too long !🤷‍♂️

The REVO Stage 1 was rubbish with a CAVE engine and REVO were not advising to have it after a while. I tried it just to see on my own car to compare with APR because a friend was thinking on being a REVO Authorised Dealer. It was crap compared to the switchable APR map i had before and went back to. I have no idea what they wrote for CTHE engines once they were able to unlock the ECU and not open up the ECU. Maybe someone here had a REVO remap on a CTHE. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/442311-the-joys-of-remapping-stage-1 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/302195-fabia-mk2-vrs-late-2012-on-cthe-14-tsi-engine-remaps

Due to high temperatures here i don't use the car often (i take my small motorcycle) but for the test purposes i will do at least 50-60 km distance to see the affect in Fuel Consumption at City Traffic. As always i will post photos no matter the result.

I graze charged at this exact location where silver car is parked. https://maps.app.goo.gl/LdHoB8Y1LBDgs8Tu5 There was a 3-phase AC post and a rapid charger. I used AC to keep car topped up to 95%. Tapped my CPS card. But I can’t find this on CPS map nor Zapmap. The charging isn’t showing up on my account charging session page. Any ideas? 2nd time using CPS, first time at Portree DC rapid, only got 30 kw and had to vacate after 45min to avoid overstay penalty.

I get more people waving at me in the Impreza than the Yeti. Well, I think they are waving.

Haven't tried it yet but looking at the differences between the Audi version and the VW one in the files. Seemed that the cartography of the roads would be the same but the POIs may be different, like improved. There are entities of the files. I've never got down to the bottom of 'Eggnog'. Voice files are the same. Each of the entities has a version release so you can see via SWDL what you have against what's in the update. Each can be updated separately so it will be interesting to see whether the entities have the same release code, thats if they are faithfully retained. If so that would mean on paper the Audi 370 mib2 high only release was identical to the VW one. That will be a clue as to what has been changed. So I get the feeling the roads will be identical between releases the overlap GIS information may not be.

@farazvRS It is a timing chain. Was it the 2 belts you had changed that are usually done when the water pump is replaced? I would not let them near it. Your issue was the REVO Stage 1 remap as they had for the CAVE engine and opening the ECU was rubbish and too aggressive. Compared to the APR. So are you running 98 ron or more unleaded. Have you ab upgraded Air Filter / air intake as was used in the Polo GTI were you are. Battery moved to boot. Already in boot with the GTI. ? What spark plugs did you fit. And did the DQ200 DSG get if needed the software update 34H5. Done from 2017 on some 2013-2015 . PS. Was it both oils changed in the DSG.

I completely forgot I had already asked and you replied! My memory ain't what it used to be. It's going to Victoria garage in Maud for its service on Thursday. I bought my previous Yeti there and got it serviced and mot there. I wasn't very happy about the mot, OK if had a broken spring which needed replacing, but they listed a heap of rust advisories, which in my opinion and the opinion of my usual mot tester weren't necessary. The karoq is due its mot shortly, but I'm going to my usual tester for that. Thanks for the response, again lol

Perhaps it's just terminology I don't know of but your thread title (here and elsewhere) I thought was about the tailgate door not locking or unlocking I wonder if others might also think that, unless it's a recognised term in tuning nowadays, if it's not you might change the thread title.

They say it's not a standard color, but it is. And yeah they have the front.

Stop paying for this info, most of it is freely available on the internet. A good site to decode the option sticker in the book / handbook is: https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

If there was something negative i would post it, i have a spare air filter box so if things could turn otherwise i would install it and everything would be as ''stock" but now i see improvement even in Fuel Consumption in hard City Traffic. As for the cutting on that cover, i don't regret it, i didn't like it from the beginning and when @Papez show me the pictures i took my decision.

I put an offer on one of the Octavia panels, looks to be same but minus the heated seats option. The offer has been accepted so now I have to wait for it to arrive👍

Thank MickA. As I have no under cover work area I need a dry day to carry out my install (hope I haven't missed summer lol). Thanks for the info and good luck with your install.

You are best off creating a new thread for this and I’ll be able to help you more from there

Thanks for that mate! This is what i was looking for! And yes it is allowed in Denmark as much as I know. Cheers!

Make the jump to 1941, it solves quite a few problems.

Sometimes it's not the resting voltage of the battery but what happens under electrical load - especially if a failing cell with internal resistance. I changed the original battery on my Superb when strange things started happening during lockdown(always started ok though), probably due to lack of use or the fact it was a Moll, it was 6ish years old at the time - all good since. Out of interest does stop / start still work? PS it's not just Skoda that has strange errors re battery - Mrs BJ's Fiat 2006 Panda starts flashing up "Power Steering Fault" every now and again when the battery is failing, new battery fixes it for another 6 years or so. Car always starts just fine. Family owned from new.

After inspecting the guts of the valve I must point out that there is little to nothing you can do to repair it once it’s malfunctioning. I saw some people trying to use some lubricants or WD40 or Brake cleaner, none of these will work. It’s a simple electromagnetic valve with sealed coils, a spring and the actual valve that comes up and down. When you got the error you replace it and that’s all. PS I did this so you don’t have to.

Well done. Sounds like you have improvements from some sort of ducted air, cold air intake kits sort of thing. It doesn't matter in the least about any whiteboard, blackboard, technical books, bench or lab testing, technical training, education, learning, theory, or intuition, if something works in real world application and use. What works well or badly or in-between on one vehicle may vary on another, if it works on yours it works.

They would fit but blank the airflow to the intercooler.

Presented with this I would certainly go for the crank speed sensor 04L 906 433 B first with a good conviction it would solve the problem

There is a good reason why it looks like your hand..because it is, I did a cheeky crop of your photo to save me having to take one of my car 😉. There is a Octavia panel going pretty cheaply on eBay that looks like its the same panel but without the heated seats option. I may make an offer on it and see if they are the same size rings. There is a good chance on them being identical, as that's what VW group do, raid the parts bin as much as possible.

No OBD11 then, so don't know. Within a few days of starting to throw up error messages, it began to turnover a little slowly when starting. and died a few days later. Battery transplant worked wonders!

don't use the horn while you need to accelerate !!!

Other peoples experience and ideas are certainly worth considering. In truth my Yeti just drives better with 97+ octane petrol so I would still use it even if the savings were not so clear. The major item which affects fuel consumption is the driver, tyres etc all have an effect but in my experience it is how smoothly and sympathetically you drive that is the biggest influence on MPG.

Not being funny but might a pair of polarised sunglasses help? They remove reflected sunglare from surfaces.

Ditto. Picked ours up on Friday and absolutely love it. Looking forward to getting out and about and taking a few trips.

Well my 16th Skoda is a Karoq. Picked it up a couple of weeks ago in the rain and today the first chance to give it a proper clean. 1.5TSi DSG SEL.

A small child running behind the car and not being hit means every false stop is worth it. Common is a child or big stupid child puts a bike or scooter down behind you. Again thank goodness for technology.

So I have been away from having a Skoda for 3.5 years, having had a KIA E Niro 4+, so I picked up my Enyaq Coup'e last Saturday 18th May, I have to say it is so good to be back in a Skoda. I did not want to post on this issue until I had actually received my new Enyaq Coup'e 85 Edition. So, the time line for my car is as follows, 1) 16-01-2024, configured my Enyaq 85 Edition on the Skoda configurator , added extras were, Moon White, Advanced Pack, Suit Interior, 20" Vega Silver metallic alloy wheels, Rubber Matts and Mud Flaps (Front & Rear). 2) 19-01-2024, sent Enyaq configuration to my Main Dealer. 3) 24-01-2024 Confirmation from the dealer that the car was ordered. 4) 13-02-2024 Dealer confirmed a build for week 12. 5) 06-04-2024 Dealer confirmed that car had been built. 6) 02-05-2024 Dealer confirmed the car had arrived in the UK. 7) 07-05-2024 Dealer confirmed the car had arrived at dealership. 8) 10-05-2024 View car in it's transport packaging at Dealers and arranged pick up date. 9) 18-05-2024 Took delivery of my new Enyaq Coup'e. I have to say, there was no way I had expected to get the car before July - August, I hope this may help, I do not know if others have had such a quick delivery, my Dealer was amazing, communication was over and above anything i have had before. So after being able to actually look at the car in detail, I have to say it is amazing, inside and out, but boy , it is a big car, love it.