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You just know this will become more commonplace

The consensus seems to the VAG DPF is usually spot on, once you have the correct endgine code. I'll drive on for now, I've a fairly clean run to work and back so never had DPF issues before. I'll just keep an eye on it. You've put my mind to rest about the regular regens though for now 😁

Wonder how a road sweeping lorry would deal with. Must be some vehicle which would treat the cable like a landing aircraft on an aircraft carrier with its arrestor hook 🪝 and the damage to the car etc never mind about a snapping cable which could cut or kill like we have on dockside when mooring ropes snap and twang.

I can't see that flex cable standing up to traffic, bet it's not fed off an RCCB either.

Thanks all for the replies. To update this thread, yesterday I decided I would take off the mechatronic unit to send away for testing/rebuild. As I jacked up the car I noticed a massive oil leak. Upon investigation found that it was leaking from the dsg oil filter housing. It was very loose and needed about four turns to tighten it. I have ordered a dsg service kit. Oil, filter and seal, and two drain plugs. The car is staying on the axle stands until I can do the oil and filter change, hopefully on Friday. The car is now five years old and done 34k miles. I mistakenly thought the dsg service was due at four years or 40k miles. This was done by my indy garage last year (April 2023). It had its annual service this year (April 2024) and having spoken to the indy garage he assured me they would have spotted any oil leaks this time round. I can only assume the filter housing wasn't tightened up properly fourteen months but how has it taken this long to show problems. Here's hoping the dsg service by me fixes all the problems.

If you've changed the anti roll links and the suspension arm ball joints are ok it has to be the shocker. Sometimes the upper nut can come loose on the top which clamps the upper shocker bearing.

The very valid point that unless the LED replacement has been fully tested and certified as being compliant, there is a distinct possibility of dazzling other road users. Certification is critical, I can't imagine anyone would countenance purchasing, say, a child's toy that may have been coated with leaded paint - or an item that contained asbestos.

That would be almost impossible to quantify IMO, but I'd think that the interval difference would be minimal compared to the belt running all the time. I can't see the inertial strain of the cam drive on start-up being significant.

You just use the latest map that is released which unzip correctly whether on one of MartiniBs found web link or website wrapped by one of the Vag brands. They are all the same files. It's like a library. New books come in but are put at the back waiting for a cover and card folder put in - old talk. In terms of release, the Vag website puts these out in June / November of each year. You can always wait for the brands release or just get it out from the backroom, the file server. MartininB lists are the direct fileserver links, you don't have to wait for the librarian, in this case the web site author to wrap the page around it. It's just map production from the cartography companies via an intermediate to get it in a form to upload into the car. Skoda seems more prone to zip errors where there programs fail. VW tend to be the gold standard, so first call of choice of map file. Better resourced. 7zip is the recommended unzip free program. Vag recommends it although Windows 10 / 11 now have unzipping programmes built into the file managers which will unzip the file without the user knowing its been unzipped. They tend to work well. Zip and 7zip are the two file type extensions you see on map files. Windows file managers have been extended to seamlessly see 7zip files of recent. As for timeliness, Skoda lost a 6 month period about three years ago so they always lagged behind VW. You were better off using VW files rather than Skoda. Production delays in VW files for release in November 2023 on mib2 standard have led to a time slip on VW files. The November 2023 VW release came out on the file servers in March 2024. Wrapped in a webpage now. That probably means they have scrapped what would have been the March release so the next release will be November 2024. Us people in the know took the March 2024 release off the filestore. We wait to see the November release later in the year. German Skoda websites also carry these links but are slower to find them and put them up. More time squabbling with each other 🤣. They are a useful read to cross check what they have. The Russian sites find the raw files not linked to file servers not in their links. They are Audi files, part of the Vag brand, but these get published as the files dumped in other areas not linked to Vag file servers except they have been copied from them. Mibsolution.one carry some of these files or links. It varies, a hobbyist operation.

Yeah for headlamps but led on any other lighting is ok.

Welcome. The 'Parking Lights' are ignition off, indicator stalk down and one front and rear side light (position light is on) and one registration light. Car parked. engine off, maybe nobody in car. Is it the Side / Position lights. 2 lights to the front that are too bright?

Yes, it's supposed to do that. If you turn the ignition on it'll stop. Does it unlock the drivers door when the console button is pressed?

All the Superb MK3 cars, except for the 2.0TSI 272HP/280HP 4x4 use 312x25mm front brake discs. The 2.0TSI 272HP/280HP 4x4 uses 340x30mm front brake discs. You could fit the 314x30mm front brakes from the Kodiaq, which are far more beefy than the 312x25mm front brakes. These use the same front brake calipers and front brake pads as the 340x30mm front brakes. The diameter of the caliper pistons on the 314x30mm brake calipers is 60mm, whereas the diameter of the caliper pistons on the 312x25mm brake calipers is 57mm. 60mm pistons apply 10.8% more pressure to the front brake pads, compared to the smaller 57mm pistons. The area of the friction material on the brake pads that the 314x30mm brake calipers use is also bigger than the area of the friction material on the brake pads that the 312x25mm brake calipers use. You can see below in the diagrams of both designs of front brake discs, that the 314x30mm front brake discs have much better cooling than the 312x25mm design. The 314x30mm front brake discs have a 10.5mm gap in the centre of the disc for ventilation, whereas the 312x25mm front brake discs only have a 8.5mm gap. Additionally, the 314x30mm front brake discs have 128 pillars, whereas the 312x25mm have 40 fins. Also, the weight of the 314x30mm front brake discs are almost 10% heavier...so would take longer for them to overheat. The combined result of all this is a significant upgrade in the effectiveness of the front brakes. The Kodiaq matches these 314x30mm front brakes with 300x12mm rear brakes...which you already have. So there would be no mismatch in front and rear brakes with this front brake upgrade. Left front brake caliper for 314x30mm front brake discs TRW BHS1230E (matches 3C0615123) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2184642#brake-caliper Right front brake caliper for 314x30mm front brake discs TRW BHS1231E (matches 3C0615124) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2184643#brake-caliper Left front brake caliper carrier for 314x30mm front brake discs TRW BDA1019 (matches 7N0615125) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2183223#carrier-brake-caliper Right front brake caliper carrier for 314x30mm front brake discs BDA1020 (matches 7N0615126) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2183224#carrier-brake-caliper Front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake discs Front brake pads for 314x30mm front brake discs 312x25mm front brake disc 8.6kg 314x30mm front brake disc 9.4kg 340x30mm front brake disc 10.8kg

Just a silly plonker with an EV then.

I’ve got display H44/2088 running on 1969. Mines a 2021 and faultless despite the Australian heat. I recall it got up to at least 42 degrees Celsius over Summer. Now we’re close to the minus's. I might even get to take the RS to the snow fields. Well, if I can find some snow chains that fit. last car I took to the snow was my 9-3 Aero back in 2016.

Because if people can they will

KW DDC has its own central unit, so should behave more-less same as OEM DCC, probably even better.

That’s encouraging then as since vsn 1941 my system has been rock solid. I updated to 1969 myself and system remains solid. At the same time I got the dealership to update to version 1941 I did have to get the Telematics module firmware updated, related to the SOS error, at the dealer which used to drag the system down when it crashed and that is now stable. i think this is the issue with these cars, all the modules firmwares can have an impact and you have to be “pro-active” on these forums to get a sense what might need updating. It seems a module can crash the system unexpectedly. Whilst Skoda seem to have updated the firmware versions for various modules they don’t seem to have devised a clear route for dealers to apply them hence why issues for many persist.

If revs are not increasing no matter how hard you press the peddle it suggests and engine issue rather than gearbox. Any lights on the dash? Do you have a code reader? Is it in Limp mode?

The drop links are so common an issue with Corsa's as is Main Dealerships getting in the wrong ones to do a repair.(Do they really not have any ever left in stock or do they just go through some many.) Replaced twice on the Corsa electric i had before it even had a MOT carried out, and they thought they were getting away with doing just one side under warranty.

https://be-ev.co.uk/driver-charging/pricing/price-drop/ Be-EV price charging price drop. Hopefully more will follow.

hey, send me a gmail email address and i can share on googledrive 👍 what year is it?

Finally off to JLR today, with a huge thanks to everyone for all the advice I’ve been given or have gleaned off this forum in the short time I’ve been a member 👍

Right then... over two years have passed since I added to this thread, during which I've dealt with a serious medical problem, almost all of which I'm relieved to say is behind me now! Back to the Skoda Octavia..... I didn't have the opportunity to explain how I removed the starter before, for the reasons above, but I can now do so, if this helps any other owners. 1/ In the engine bay, remove the split pin from the gear linkage on the steering column & detach the linking rod, tucking the rod safely out of the way. 2/ Unscrew the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor at the carburettor & tuck this away too. 3/ Remove the metal heater pipe running from the lower radiator hose to the rubber connection to the heater matrix at the bulkhead (2 Jubilee clips) 4/ Unscrew the nuts and bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the down pipe, allowing the down pipe to be pushed lower, to assist in the starter's removal. The two 17 mm nuts are now more accessible, at 1 & 7 pm positions. The lower one's just about accessible from under the car using a short reach spanner and the higher one's best removed by an open spanner, lowered between the bulkhead and the engine block. I eventually managed to loosen it a little and then used a 17mm (with two extensions!) to allow me to slowly unscrew the nut. Once the nuts are off I tapped the starter motor with. rubber mallet & it detached from the block. I was the able to wiggle it out. In a day or so I'll continue the saga of obtaining a new starter & fitting it. It's all good news!

Will be EA111 if you have CTHE/ 1.4 twincharger. EA211 refers to 1.4 turbo only with no supercharger. Wasn’t applied to the VRS, would be in the Mk3.

The major difference was / is the 1.6 TDI CR and that belt snapping / chain tensioner failing. As far as we are with Euro 6 on 1.5 TSI ACT,s there is no common failures. Some are from people without a clue doing a cam belt change at what seems like a cheap price. Same with 1.0 TSI,s to a lesser extent.

Unfortunately, I don't think so. It seems that it's quite a gnarly and complicated issue. I found this article online about it, which seems very informative and includes further links on the subject: Are LED headlights legal in the UK?

Actually, while it certainly was the case that the majority of LED bulbs claiming to be replacements for H7, H4 etc. used to have different form factors such that the light-emitting part of the bulb was positioned differently compared to the position of the filament in an incandescent bulb, therefore giving off a sometimes wildly different throw of light from the same headlight reflector - it is now possible to find LED bulbs which are true plug-and-play replacements, which have neither the bulky voltage adaptors at the back which would make it impossible to screw the dust cover cap over the back of the headlight unit, nor have the light-emitting part of the LED bulb in a different position so they DO actually have the same throw pattern of light as the OEM halogen equivalent. I found some on Amazon which lived up to this claim, and they were brilliant... but still an MOT failure because they are not E-marked. If anyone is interested, these are what I bought for my last car. Tested myself in the dark with one LED bulb in one side and the original halogen in the other headlight shining on my garage door. The throw pattern was the same, but a slightly sharper edge to the throw pattern on the LED rather than the more gradual fade off of the halogen. The LED was of course much brighter and whiter. For my last car I bought the H4 LED bulbs, but obviously for the Octavia, it's H7's and H15's which I can't vouch for personally, although the manufacturer makes the same claims for all their bulbs - I can only personally vouch for the H4's. SinoParcel direct LED replacement bulbs

@wyx087 I messaged you so as not to derail.

Certainly doable but not easy or cheap To give you an idea, someone did it to a similar golf here: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/dcc-retrofit.378431/ Bllstein also have their B16 ridecontrol kits which is an aftermarket DCC system. Not sure if they have one for the Octavia though.

Sadly the reports of premature failures with DQ381,s MCU,s is becoming common and not just on this forum. An oil & filter change is unlikely to resolve anything. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/505078-mechatronic-control-unit-failure Those without issues with DQ381,s might be best to consider getting it serviced correctly well before the 80,000 mile recommendation, guidelines, advice or schedule given by VW / Skoda. Anyone getting quoted around £200 for the Oil & Filter change of a DQ381 DSG needs to ask themselves and the people quoting that if they know what they are doing and have not only the gear but more than just an idea. (on what they are doing.)

it rains in between the glass and door. some glue and a strip behind the speaker on the top side to water proof it f95becfa-92f3-482b-b0ac-8dbb6f9b5d9d.mp4

Possibly doable but won't be cheap and not simple. Will possibly need shocks and all associated parts, plus changing your gateway module I would think plus some coding done at the very least. That's just a guess off the top of my head though. But as with most things with enough money and knowledge and the right software it could be done. But the question is whether it is really worth the cost and effort if it can be done.

That is correct, and to be fair, going straight to the fuse box looks tidier anyway as the cable goes straight up and under the headliner.

I believe the issue is that reflectors and lenses designed for incandescent bulbs are not correctly focused for LEDs - which will often cause unacceptable light scatter/glare.

I previously had a 2013 2.0 TDI Touran (from new) with 6 spd DSG wet clutch (DQ250) , had the DSG oil and filter changed every 35,000 miles, at 108,000 miles still operated perfectly, and I towed a 1.5 ton trailer quite a bit. I've not had my Karoq, which replaced the Touran, long enough to need a DQ381 oil change. However some faults with the DQ250 DSG boxes could be resolved with the oil and filter change. I realise that the DQ381 is a different box, but one of the reasons for the DQ250 oil change is because the oil collects the dust off the clutch plates. I've seen oil change intervals of 40k and 80k miles for the DQ381. At 34k miles your Karoq is approaching the 40K mark, an oil change is around £200 considerably less that the cost to have the Mechatroinic unit replaced. Worth considering?

Can't say I can find anything relating to making it louder, changing the firmware for different sounds was the best I could find. Tbh it's a gimmick anyway, it doesn't do anything other than make some fake engine sound inside the car. Each to their own I guess but it's like people who have nosiy exhausts and make the car sound horrendous inside for effect. Waste of time in my opinion.

Au contraire, the seals reduce the amount of water entering the door but cannot keep it all out so it runs down the the sloping side impact beam and out of the drain hole onto the sill.

As you can read this tread, 308 and 330

Sounds like condensate from AC.

Picked the car up yesterday, pleased with the colour!

They use the same radar unit so that is a little peculiar. A full scan may help guide.

If anyone finds thos topic still actual, I had the same problem. Thing is, you need to match sw version (or higher) of clockspring. As I tried to replace my spring on kodiaq Which had the sw code 235. I tryed genuine valeo spring with sw code 195 and it didin’t worked. I had coding problem same as mentioned at this thread before where first coding number which was responsible for cruise control fuctions gave me an headache. Lucky me, at workshop we found one spare from 2021 octavia, which had same sw235 code and it took 6414 code I needed. Older sw versions just doesn’t support coding of cruise control by separate handle behind the wheel. They support vags who have autopilot controls on steering wheel. As on newer sw versions, vag included both steering wheel and separate handle autopilot coding.

With 34k miles and faults being thrown up from both clutch packs I'd side with a mechatronic issue. But nothing's every 100% until investigated.

The plot thickens!, I discussed this with the tech that installed it, and he said that he could leave the pipe so i've got it, but they would install it as a 'no washer' install, so why do i have the washer button?? I do have the button on the screen (which obviously doesn't work) and will admit that on seeing the funky connector with the odd red bit on the end of the pipe, I thought that it might be some way of doing the camera washer independently of the rear window. the second pipe i posted a picture of is the one which comes from carsystems.eu, there are a few different options on their site, but all come with the pipe with oem 565955633J which does not have the funky connector, and seems to be very long from the photos!. I've found a part number for the pipe I've got, its apparently the one in the Audi q5, part number 80A955961A. It's about 2 inches too short! I'd be grateful for any advice as to which is the correct pipe i need! (My car is a MY23 hatch with rear wash/wipe)

Installation: Some plastic parts need to be removed. The right side panel of the central console. The rear plastic (along with the air ducts) of the central console. Looking from below you can see the plug of the front USB ports. It's the red one with the 4 wires. It must be removed to make the new wiring. It's a bit difficult because of the limited space. A small tool with a turned nose that I had helped me a lot. If someone doesn't have it, he can make something similar with a thick wire. With this tool one can press the plug button to unclip and come out. Time to wire. We need to run the new wiring through the center console and bring it to the back. A plastic fish tape wire puller helped me with this. Then we connect our new wiring to the red plug, arrange the connection (I also put some soft material) so that it does not knock and make noise. The side panel can go into place, we're done with that.

Yes only the power connector. I made a wiring myself buying some connectors. I have come this far

I am willing doing this retrofit. I currently have the plastic trim with the 2 holes for the USB ports to fit through. The code is 5E3863618 (9B9) The hard part is the wiring. There is no wiring in the car so if someone wants to add these ports they have to build it themselves. I'm thinking of getting power from the wiring of the front USB ports. This is the existing connector for the front USB Ports

I have more if anyone needs Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part1.pdf Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part2.pdf

Hello, I have a 1.2tsi spaceback to which I put a 1.4tsi 150hp turbo, apr coils, downpipe, revo stage 1 reprogramming, intake forge motorsport and I have another car compared to the same stock.