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He was definitely a tesla wassock! Calling anything that wasn't a tesla "duff" didn't show him in an impartial light. I get 'charging at home', especially if you can get sufficient charge at a lower rate, but charging prices compared to a diesel that could easily do 60mpg at similar motorway speeds to average EVs and with 2-3 times the range of most EVs means not having to stop and spend money on unnecessary coffees, pastries and food at exorbitant service station prices. If I was running a car purely for cost effectiveness, then I would be back in a 2.0 diesel in a heartbeat. To be frank, I'm also a bit fed up with more and more staff turning up late with the excuse of "I couldn't get on a charge point on my way to site". They are paid to be there at a certain and start their duties. Either set off earlier than their ICE powered colleagues, or get an overnight hotel!

I regularly drive to Germany with mine and certainly find it very comfortable, economical and (so far) reliable. It's done just over 32k miles in a little under 18 months. A spare wheel was an optional extra on these cars and many won't have them but it is possible to buy all the kit needed and you can fit it in the space where it would have gone if it had been factory supplied. If you do go down this route then make sure to get a larger tyre than the standard Skoda issue one as this has a significantly different diameter to the rest of the wheels on the car which will disable use of cruise control - very annoying if you are a reasonable distance from home which I have found out to my cost. There are a few threads on this if you want further details.

A few from Waddington today. Only managed to see two Red Arrows returning, but did spot a lovely TR6👍 YouCut_20240609_224901859~2.mp4

Finally got round to washing my Superb for a pose.

Glorious evening an a 4 day old Waxing Crescent Moon........

So with an EV @ 50 pence a kWh and 4 miles a kWh that is 81 kWh x 4 324 miles. Which is nice. For those getting that efficiency & price & a vehicle cheaply thanks to Tax Payers / HMRC BIK. ............ My young lad is with friends and in their EV and is rather impressed. I can see him going for a Kia rather than a Hyundai Ionic 5 N. He said 635bhp. Not sure on that, 577 bhp is what i can find.

@wyx087 Cheaper with TESLA Charging or 55 pence a kWh or less. Not once you are using PodPoint @ 62 or 65 pence, or 70 Pence Glasgow City chargers, or 63, 69 or 79 pence BP, or 75, 79 pence chargers from others or 85 pence InstaVolt. 50 kWh @ 62 pence is £31. 4 miles a kWh x 50 = 200 miles. 4.7 gallons @ £6.50 is £31. 42.5 mpg x 4.7 =200 miles. EDIT, Diesel prices up. £7 a gallon. 55 mpg, x 4.4 gallon 242 miles.

@Lee

A DQ381 DSG has a proper filter that should be replaced. It is a 80,000 mile Schedule that VW / Skoda give, there are rather far too many with MCU issues before that, likely not related to the service schedule as even pretty new ones have leaked or failed.

Should be no difference in reliability. I wouldn't worry about that IMO DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) is active shock damping that dynamically adjusts to the conditions. It also has different settings in the main menu to make it firmer of softer. The ride is widely considered superior to normal suspension but the part are more expensive. It does seem to be reliable and last longer than standard though. FYI it is certainly possible to retrofit but it's a very big job that requires a partial loom and a fair bit of coding. I wouldn't bother. DSG service is usually and oil change and filter (gauze) change. The gearboxes are reliable but if this is missed then it can be an issue. If the car needed it at 40 and it was not done until 55-60 I would question the rest of the care that had been taken with the car. The belt on the other hand is preventative maintenance. I certainly would not ignore a car of 5 years old and 55-60k miles that hadn't had it done. Might consider it as part of negotiation or getting it done in the next year or 2. See DSG above, that's more important for sticking to good time frames.

I believe we have both added to conversation with this in mind on many occasions. Quite a few people don't realise that a full dealer history or service plan often doesn't include anything beyond an oil change. Had our electric Hyundai "serviced" last week and had to double check before handing the key over what they were going to do (fluid check, software update and main battery check). The first 2 parts can be done at home. £75 for a main battery check every 3 years to maintain the 7 year warranty is worth it IMO. This I still find a little crazy. In the short 25 years I've been driving (and many before that) I always changed them annually. Now and then I might have opened the box and give it a hoover and the filter a clean (if using air make sure to blow from the engine side). Now I merely replace the filter every year. It's more hassle to clean it than spending £12 or whatever on a new part.

@Cyclone A FSH or FMDSH is great, but it should show that Servicing & Maintenance was done to the Manufacturers Guidelines, recommendations, advice or Specifications / schedule. Just because a Dealership did Oil & Inspection Services & Extended Scope does not mean the owners had Extras done which are not really extras bit Service items that there were not told needing doing, or that a Service Plan did not include. Paper receipts / invoices or a Certificate of Servicing showing what was done is better than a place saying FMDSH and it not being full of everything it should have had.

No I don't think Storm have that capability right now. I know the owner and he's bringing the company back up to full speed after a bit of change. Could be worth giving them a call. My personal view is as long as you have a record it doesn't matter if it's electronic or not. Having the right work done well is more important. Electronic records for warranty is another matter.

I can definitely recommend storm development in Aldermaston. A little way from reading and not the cheapest. But their work is excellent. There's also the phirm in Camberley. Not used them but the few chats I've had certainly put them on the list.

I recommended a Fabia 1.0 litre to my sister as a replacement for her faithful 18 year old 118,000 mile Toyota Corolla, a test drive was arranged last weekend, the model was the latest revised sel 114 bhp. Car size would be ok , although when we sat in the car I could not believe that this car was priced at over £22,000 , swathes of hard plastic and a very mediocre interior that were somehow cheaper looking than the interior in my old mk 1 Fabia vrs. Then the test drive, well it was so noisy, yes I know three cylinder engines can thrum a bit but they must have missed the sound proofing in this build, and it was very sluggish, pushing the throttle made it go of course but at the expense of more unwelcome cabin noise with the feeling it would not be very reasonable on fuel or relaxing to live with yes I know its available with the 1.5 engine but come on Skoda what went wrong from the days you built the mk1 Fabia which was an affordable good quality car to the very poor presentation that this new Fabia is never mind the low rent feeling of the interior. My Sister test drove a Kia Ceed hatch 1.5, and bought a 9 month old Ceed 2 1.5 petrol with 5,800 miles and the 7 year warranty re started for just under £18,000 cash. Streets ahead in quality, included standard kit, driving experience and finish and a proper sized car than the expensive Fabia, she looked at the Scala but did not like it. I still think My Superb is -well superb but what an eye opener looking at Skoda now they no longer are the value car they once were when we bought our new Octavia elegance 1.9 pd back in 2005. I do not in any way wish to offend any members, this is my opinion and am very shocked with the recent Skoda experience. Martin.

I know there was a a thread or threads on this a while back but I'm not sure what I need. I have a 2011 Skoda Fabia MK2 Elegance and want to do this retrofit. I can't see an OEM part number anywhere on my light unit but I've attached pics, nonetheless. Is anyone able to have a quick look on ebay or AliExpress and tell me what I need? I'd prefer this to be plug and play, without VCDS. Ebay says this won't fit, for example, so I'm a bit lost: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162770388031?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=747cIYBHQzm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7jHjgA_FRCK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Please ignore my rather dainty foot positioning. Thank you!

I actually havent yet but that could be a good shout, ill try it at the weekend and see if that makes a difference, and yeah you can hear the roof rails on motorways it spooked me at first haha

What rating are they though? My card is a SanDisk Extreme V30 (200 MB/s IIRC). It might be worth chucking £14 at the problem and buying something like this

At all speeds but the noise does change frequency i guess at higher speeds, also putting the clutch in or out doesn't change the sound and doesn't matter what gear you are in the sound is the same only really changes with speed

@Ootohere thanks. For this case I was only referring to the VW 5-speed manual gearbox, certainly the PED 02T fitted to my wife's 2015 Fabia, whilst it's quite small family saloon/hatch around town feel and operation it's fair enough for operation of particular vehicle and seems robust enough, unlike other bits that have fell apart or worn a lot quicker than on other manufacturers offerings. Always noticeable that the "cheaper" brands offer the longer warranties with the like of VW relying on British car snobbery and an out of date good reputation of their brand(s). Not to mention the UK belt rip-off and other stuff over the year. Heard something this morning about the Japanese manufacturers being further twisted to the UK and USA ways of the motor trade, I'll catch up with it later. ETA: I did note alep has the 2016 car mapped to 130ps hence the caution note.

Indeed - those 2 were transit (RAF Shawberry - > RAF Waddington). The others returned to base much earlier 👍

Hello! So I am aware that this is a 12 year old thread that I've stumbled across however, the Skoda in question is now mine! If any of you here are still active, I don't suppose you know anything of the history of the car or who owned it? The fella I bought it off was a bit of a wheeler dealer type and didn't know all that much about it unfortunately... although you'll be glad to hear its still on the road, and just needs a little TLC, as I plan to drive it for a visit back to its home in Czechia some day

So another set of clock springs and indicators arrived today, ordered last Monday, so took a week to arrive from Lithuania, bought for £180.79 from eBay. The part number on this particular stalk is 5Q0 953 521 LA: Costly yes, but to be honest I don't see it second hand for any cheaper and its a bit more brand new from most other sources. The item also appears to be from a 2017 Skoda Superb and also has the speed limiter button on the stalks: Alas, like the original stalks, the cruise control is a bit worn. So decided to swap this clock spring onto the nicer looking stalks and did the entire rigmarole again. Battery disconnected, wait about 15 minutes, airbag disconnected and out, bottom steering cowl disconnected, unbolt steering wheel, steering wheel out, indicators and clockspring removed, then reverse of all the previous. Once the power was back on can immediately see the cruise control icon appear with the stalks, and plugging in the VCDS and checking the buttons, everything is absolutely fine! So the VCDS scan for the Steering Module: Address 16: Steering wheel (J524) Labels:| 5Q0-953-549.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 953 521 LA HW: 5Q0 953 569 B Component: Lenks.Modul 100 0245 Revision: FF036036 Serial number: 20170427500937 Dataset Number: V03935250QX 0001 Coding: 6414 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00141 ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSVALEOMQBLRH 001007 ROD: EV_SMLSVALEOMQBLRH.rod VCID: 7CAA98F75669845A0BB-8028 No fault code found. So compared to the one that didn't work: Address 16: Steering wheel (J524) Labels:| 5Q0-953-549.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 953 521 ET HW: 5Q0 953 569 B Component: Lenks.Modul 100 0245 Revision: FF035035 Serial number: 20220218501004 Coding: 6410 Shop #: WSC 66564 385 16448 ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSVALEOMQBLRH 001007 ROD: EV_SMLSVALEOMQBLRH.rod VCID: 8842742792B158FA9F3-80DC Part number differences of ET vs LA suffix, with the working one also having a dataset number field with the non-working one being blank. Is that the main difference? So yeah: Two wornish indicator stalks, two steering wheels, and two clock springs, with one either broken or just not compatible with the Skoda Superb: Not sure what to do with the spoils. The flat bottom wheel could be used for a change of look. Not my cup of tea, the Superb is hardly an F1 car with restricted leg room or 270 degrees of steering lock to lock. I guess I could sell the clock springs on as spares or repairs or something I suppose. I'll need to check things over with a quick drive some time. For now, the heated wheel button doesn't work, and still only kicks in via the touch screen panel. Can only guess some coding somewhere is missing. For now, I'll leave it and take the very expensive victory. Next thing I think I will swot up on is this: Address 57: TV Tuner (R78) Labels:| 8V0-919-DTV-V1.clb Part No SW: 8V0 919 191 G HW: 8V0 919 191 B Component: DVB-DTV H09 2660 Coding: 0304030000000101000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_TVMELC 001039 ROD: EV_TVMELC_VW37.rod VCID: 43D8230B6B173BA20A1-8016 1 Fault Found: 8211 - Antenna 1 for TV; Tuner Antenna Module; Antenna B124F 13 [00001001] - Open Circuit Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 39 Mileage: 165771 km Date: 2024.06.10 Time: 15:38:12 Voltage terminal 30: 11.5 V Connection status antenna 1-Antenna current: 0 mA Connection status antenna 1-TV tuner to impedance converter: electrically OK Connection status antenna 1-Impedance converter to antenna: Open circuit Connection status antenna 1-Phantom voltage: 5.1 V Connection status antenna 1-level: 19 This has only popped up with the full scan today, no idea what it's about. Guess is one of the antennas needs replacing or a look, so I'll need to figure out which one is "Antenna 1". I did have some drama with the tailgate trim, and I can't help but feel some of the antennas are tucked behind said trim. Maintenance: £2340.22 Upgrades: £1595.25 (+£180.79) Miscellaneous: £820.07

That's the only one, it also contains a temperature sensor as well which may explain the other codes.

British Leyland? Really..?

You can do as you like. Employees are the responsibility of Employers, and it is other peoples cars they are working on. They surely know who has been trained and is qualified and knows what they are allowed to do. Them are the rules that most go by. Run a diagnosis and when working on them isolate the HV battery. There are levels of work. Lubricating doors, cleaning the interior....

Hi I agree with the suggestion above to change the fuel filter (a quick job) even if it has already been changed. The paper element may have mopped up water and be restricting fuel flow. If you have had water contamination in the fuel, the water will tend to sink to the bottom of the tank, whereas the pickup pipe will be a little bit above this level. The water is therefore likely to hang around. So best if possible to get the tank fully pumped or siphoned out, which will also give an opportunity to inspect the colour of what comes out. You can buy a length of clear hose with a squeeze bulb type pump for about £10. I doubt if a dose of (petroleum based) oil cleaner in a tankful of petrol would affect running too much, though it will lower the octane. Your lack of power accompanied by the Check Engine light is likely to be deliberate power restricion by the ECU (" limp home mode") to prevent engine damage due to a detected fault. Anything that restricts the flow of fuel (e.g. blocked fuel pipes or filter) could also reduce the amount of sustained power that can be developed, even without the light showing. I don't know why you have overheating, though driving around in 3rd gear will be rather inefficient and won't help. What does the temperaure gauge show ? Presumably you have checked the coolant and the rest of the cooling system. The chain rattle at idle may be a sign of chain and/or tensioner wear, especially in view of the high mileage.

So finally took the plunge and got a stage 1 tune (from Morendi Tuning) on a completely stock car (except for a dv+), could feel the difference straightaway. Been driving for 2 weeks now and love the way it responds, feels a little more eager now (not that it wasn't earlier😜). The tech who worked only car was really helpful, and performed prechecks (DSG, clutch, spark plugs, timing chain, etc.) to ensure there are no issues currently. Yet to do a dyno run, will have that booked in during the coming weeks. Overall, glad i got the tune. Thanks for all the help guys.

There are videos of DQ381,s servicing in various threads on here, or just look on Youtube. The DQ400-e DSG is not always going to be getting serviced as it should like a new member found when looking at a 1.4 TSI PHEV. The Dealership staff said a Hybrid so they did not service the DSG. That is because it needs a trained and qualified EV Technician, not because not due doing. @MarkyG82 Was yours serviced and at a main dealers? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/523791-buying-a-35-45k-miles-superb-iv

thank @Ootohere good to know. As a side note for those reading and considering the hybrid variant, the dq400e is a variant of the dq250 and follows the same maintenance. However, the filter is hard to get to so make sure whoever does the work knows their salt.

One of the hardest job was the steering bearings. My first car of this generation of vag cars, so I didn't know about the nice structure of nuts, where they are somehow molded in that rubber ring and welded on an extremely thin plate inside the molding. While the are exposed to the conditions inside the fender, of course they will be stripped away from that plate while a innocent diy-guy tries to take them apart. I should have noticed that something is wrong as I saw this: But I didn't. So a bit too much force and not enough patience and I too sawed those bolts off. Don't recommend that to anybody, it sucked. Construction is like that: There you can see bolts that are cut. Nuts spinned freely in that rubber thing. After the foxtail saw and a bit frustraited owner the area around those bolts looked quite rough, so I did a bit of make up with steel wool, and rattle cans, first zink primer then black: I like it, but now everything around needs some attention too, to match, maybe.

First week of summer vacation, giving some attention to the car. Quite everything of front suspension was more or less in the end of lifespin, so lot of stuff to take apart. For example right side absorber had decided to let all of the oil go: And as you know, in over 15 years in northern conditions, there is no place that's free of corrosion: Beside the ordinary hand tools there vere a lot of hammering, grinding and little bit of foxtail saw here and there to take everything out, it took the most of the time.

I could not make the test that i thought because there needed 2 drivers and 2 cars and i could not find second driver to make the test. But, yesterday without causing a danger for anybody i found an opportunity. My speed was araund 30 km, acc was engaged, traffic lights were approximately 80-100 meters away, a car was stationary, car detected the other car, and acc started to make car speed decrease by means of auto braking. It was not a sudden and disturbing stop; and I have to say that everything in this case did not cause any danger or problem. Of course the speed was very low and i always took the precauitions and i was in a position that when needed i could take the control quickly. Briefly, everything was as i supposed and the system operates perfectly. P.S.: These are my experiences, so if you try this and there happens problem i do not take responsibility.

A cursory search showed that the wiper-blades in the A 864 S set are suitable for the following cars (I'm sure there are others): Skoda Fabia Mk4, Kamiq (from 2019), Karoq (from 2017), Scala (from 2019), Volkswagen Golf 8 (from 2019) and Polo (from 2017). From that data, It seems that VW Group cars began to be fitted as original equipment (OE) with front wiper-blades with the narrower plastic mounting-point from 2017 onwards, presumably when revised models were introduced during that period. I've inspected the OE front blades of my Fabia Mk4 and their plastic mounting-points do not look any more robust than those on the Bosch Aerotwin A 864 S blades. As I said above, the mounting-points of the Fabia Mk4 blades are narrower and less 'bulky' than those of my 2009 Roomster, but, due to their modified design, also a helluva easier to remove and replace than the Roomster's blades - which may or may not be considered a plus! I can't find anything on-line about wiper-blade mounting-point failure relating to OE or Aerotwin blades of the cars I listed above (gripes about OE blade poor performance, but that's another matter) so I don't think you need be concerned about your Fabia's blades being unfit for purpose because their mounting-points might be potentially weak because they are narrower than those of your other cars.

As it is the VW Group / Skoda buy in the consumables, they do not manufacture / produce them. DQ250 servicing is not quite as involved as doing the DQ381.

Wow, didn’t know this existed, will take a look. Thanks @Breezy_Pete

@tfsparkthat looks promising, fingers crossed it’s the solution. Roughly how much was the service kit? I know I mentioned circa £200 previously which @Ootoherequeried, it was based on what I had paid the local VW dealer (parts and labour) for each of the three services on the DQ250 in my Touran. I’m thinking that I will have the DQ381 in Karoq serviced around the 30k miles.

(Disclaimer: no intention to throw this into politics, which I think are a no-no in this forum, so take this lightly and laugh it over*) Oh no "mate", that is not how it works! You DID get it wrong! 😄 Once you bought a ticket into this sinking ship (or derailing train, which you prefer), there is no "getting out easily". Yeah sure, you guys got yourselves "free" from the ballroom, where we all "continentals" keep dancing and singing while the orchestra plays (like in the Titanic), so actually you are now "free" to roam the outer realms of the sinking ship, but .... but ... out there the icy waters and the sharks (yeah, even at these latitudes) wait happily your demise 😬 Would continue this allegory, but I think this sufficient 😟 "You can check out anytime you like But you can never leave" * there is nothing to laugh about, but this is all we got left with ... 🙄

For cars this age road tax is all the same (currently £190) unless over £40k original list price which adds the luxury car tax (currently £410 per year extra).

If a 7 Speed wet clutch DSG / DQ381 the service interval is not every 40,000 miles.

Hello and welcome. There are 2 good comments and suggestions above mine.. From the choice of cars which you've listed I'd personally go for the L&K if your budget can stretch. The level of extra toys is just fantastic, not least the DCC suspension which is really good, especially on the 19" wheels. (If fitted). You didn't specify whether you prefer the 150bhp, or 190bhp diesel so it might be an idea to drive both if available. The 150 is more linear (imo), whereas the 190 really flies once that bigger turbo spools up. Also, slightly different road tax brackets.... NOPE. THEY'RE THE SAME! As far as I know the 190s also come with 19" wheels standard. Not everyone likes the ride of these wheels, so this is where the DCC help a lot. Do you prefer manual or DSG? If DSG check for the vital services every 40k for the 6 speed. This is Not the case for the 7 speed. Timing belt? A car of the age range, and mileage which you've specified I'd say shouldn't have needed one. Skoda recently changed their policy. If it has been changed already then all good . Silica bag in coolant tank: if the silica bag is still present have it removed..Mine has burst in the past and clogged my heater matrix. One telltale sign is coolant which looks like Tea 😕. Spare Wheel: Does the car come with an inflation kit or a 'proper' spare wheel? I'm sure others will mention some additional items, but check the above, pour over the (most likely electronic) service history in detail. Test drive and check the car over thoroughly, panel by panel. Maybe have someone scan the faults for you. Car should have 2, preferably 3 keys and handbooks. Hope this war and peace helps.

I had a mk 3 Fabia as a courtesy car a while back and thought the same... Ok it was probably a low spec model but it seemed quite low rent and 'tinny' and not a patch on the old Mk 1 Fabia we had.

This is better. The function is a paid for function. I've paid I've got 18 months to run. To top off the stupidity.. the new app offers the options to pay for the same function they now say they will not support. They are continuing to offer for sale what they intend to withdraw without saying it, breach of advertising law probably, breach of contract. I got a "holding" response from the Exec team within 30 mins. Now just got to wait for that response, given themselves about 2 weeks to respond. My impression was they were not happy as they did not know. The area notification is a lot cheaper than a tracker, it's not a perfect alert to theft but it's very useful, it has a value I can calculate. It makes for a far more interesting discussion that most of the connect stuff, which is nice to have but with no obvious commercial alternative.

Welcome. Yep, this is the correct forum. Full service history, including the DSG/Haldex. No idea on the indies in your area, but I’m sure a member local to you will be able to help.

As BRISKODA forum participants may own/drive right-hand-drive (RHD) or left-hand-drive (LHD) Skoda cars, it might be worth highlighting that Bosch Aerotwin 'front' wiper blades come in two different flavours. This link is to the Bosch website's wiper-blades entry for Aerotwin blades suitable for a Skoda Fabia Mk4 marketed in the United Kingdom https://www.boschwiperblades.com/xc/en-gb/basic-page.html/-/en-gb/478dafb54dab9771f6adabf9705fe54dd0d454ee/period_5046_2949_06_2021_12_9999/SKODA_Fabia_2021 Two types of 'front' blade are shown - Aerotwin Original and Aerotwin Modular. The Original type is marketed as a set of two blades with lengths of 650mm (driver side) and 450mm (passenger side), while the Modular-type is marketed as individual blades (650mm or 450mm). Original blades are an immediate fit to the car, whereas a Modular blade requires an adapter to be attached to it beforehand. A critical difference between Modular and Original Aerotwin blades is that the AP 26 U and AP 18 U Modular blades are suitable for a Skoda Fabia Mk4 irrespective of whether the car is RHD or LHD, whereas the Original A 864 S set of blades is only suitable for a Fabia Mk4 with RHD. The reason for this is that the cross-section of the aerodynamic upper surface of Modular blades is symmetrical but the cross-section of the aerodynamic upper surface of Original blades is asymmetrical. This means that, if the A 864 S blades were fitted to a LHD Fabia Mk4, the blades would be upside-down and aerodynamically inefficient. Consequently - for Aerotwin Original front wiper-blades for a LHD Fabia Mk4 car - the A 863 S set would be required, not the A 864 S set. UK prices for Aerotwin blades vary significantly. I paid £17.15 for an A 864 S set bought from an on-line vendor in Northern Ireland. (The A 303 H rear wiper blade for a Fabia Mk4 is bisexual and fits RHD or LHD models.)

In the next 3 years there should be OK Hydrogen fueling stations for commercials on trunk routes in Scotland at least from just north of Inverness going south, and Aberdeen south with Aberdeen, Inverness, Dundee, Perth, Kircaldy / Glenrothes, Edinburgh & Glasgow having places and then likely others. Perth might be the biggest or maybe near Harthill or Eurocentral.

You have to think how it works. If you are approaching a bend, the radar is reflected off houses, street signs etc. there are lots of things straight ahead of the car, the radar doesn’t know that the road bends before you get to those houses etc. You don’t want it to jam on the brakes every time there is a bend! The system use Doppler, ie the change in frequency of reflected radar signals when there is a speed difference between your car and whatever the radar reflects off. Same concept as speed cameras. So if the radar sees an object that is 50kph speed difference from your car, and you car is doing 50kph, it knows that the reflective object is stationary and probably some road infrastructure, houses etc. It therefore ignores it. Any reflections that have a Doppler/speed difference that is not the same as the speed of your car, are moving. And therefore probably other cars. The system will react appropriately to them. In the case of a reflection which is moving, but then slows down to become stationary, the car realises that this is a vehicle that has come to a stop. So in summary, if vehicles that are travelling ahead and in range of your radar, come to a stop, the ACC will react appropriately and bring your car to a stop. But if you come round a corner and encounter stationary traffic, or come up behind cars that are already stopped, the system will assume that they are fixed objects like houses etc and presume that the road curves before you get to them. So you have to brake yourself. Obviously it is important to understand how the system works! The other thing to bear in mind is that there is a deliberate limit on how hard the system can apply the brakes. This is to avoid a system glitch causing maximum braking which might create a rear end shunt. So sometimes, even when the system is correctly applying the brakes to avoid hitting the slowing vehicle in front, it might be necessary for you to push hard on the brake pedal. There is a ping and a big red symbol to tell you when to do this!

Looks like it might be new battery time. I was told the V70 had a new battery. It did, in February 2020 🙄 I took the seller at his word about it being 'new'. On the Norfolk trip the low battery warnings stopped, so I presumed it'd been revitalised. Turned out to not be the case as they started again three days after we got back. It still starts fine. My battery charger (old school - probably 40 years old) is at my Daughter's, who is in Thailand at present. So I got myself a NOCO Genius5 charger/maintainer, and left the battery on charge overnight. It was at two bars: But by this morning was charged: So I went for a c.30 mile drive. Got home and the low battery warning came straight on again 🙄 And it's back down to the two bars. I've set the NOCO to 'repair' mode now, so we'll see how we go. I suspect I know where we're going. The car's only done 2,000 miles between Feb 2020 and me picking it up, so I think the battery's probably slowly died of boredom/neglect. No reason to think the car's not charging, although I've not yet checked to be certain. I would think that it is, given it improved on the 580 Norfolk round trip, and was okay for a short while. A quick look suggests a Varta or Bosch battery is around the £130 mark (direct from Tayna), so not too bad in the grand scheme of things. I'm glad it hasn't got stop/start. Gaz

I'd be a bit concerned about the comment about torque limits of 1000 Nm being quoted. Even the DQ500 which we have in our 190 TDI Karoq, is rated to only 600 Nm. Which tuning company did you speak to to? I've used Angel Tuning Scotland to map two TDI's to date. That includes the 150 TDI in my Yeti. I'd be inclined to talk to Paul Winston at Angel. He's a hell of a nice guy and knows his stuff.

Thanks nta16, your efforts are not unappreciated. I’m not exactly young myself, and I thought a fender was a bumper (to fend off other cars 😁) so I had to Wikipedia it. My reference vehicle for such Americanisms, is Chitty Chitty Bang Bang! which IIRC had four fenders, so … just can’t rely on anything these days. Don't worry; very chilled here. Just can’t help being a pedant 🙁