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Hi Head gaskets rarely fail for no reason. After 97K you can rule out misassembly. Gross overheating that warps the cylinder head is about the only possibility, but you would have been aware of that happening. As suggested above, the EGR cooler is a potential route for exhaust gases to enter the cooling system (e.g. corrosion pinhole from inside pipe into water jacket) and show up on a sniff test. Any sign of water in oil or oil in water ? Any sign of low compression ? A garage should be able to remove injectors and do a leakdown test on each cylinder. Given the costs involved, I would want to be pretty certain of a firm diagnosis.

Gandalf had it's 105k km Service yesterday. I just went over the 90k km mark about 2 wks ago...7 yrs later. Everything is behaving. Front brakes r down to 3mm, hence will need replacing soon. They did well lasting 7 yrs, over 90k kms. Will b replacing them with dba T2 rotors and pads. Rear brakes r still good with 5.5mm left. Tyres (Continental MaxContact 6) r down to 3mm too, front and rear. This is my second set of tyres in the 7 yrs. They've done about 45k kms so far. Will likely replace them with Continental MaxContact 7s next, towards the end of the yr.

Bought insurance for it. Wow. I read that OAPs were seeing a serious hike in premiums (I'm 77) but after several years of claim-free, penalty-free motoring, I was surprised to get dumped by my broker. I wrote to ask if it was my age. They said no. They said they couldn't find anyone to cover me for parking on the street in SE22. I got the bum's rush. Last year's premium was £404. I got Admiral to insure me (£600 excess, mind) for £738, paying monthly. We use the car so little, I seriously thought about giving it up. It's a luxury, but (as of now) I can afford it, so I bit the bullet.

@SkOmk4 Response to question on Facebook Skoda Ad.

I'd be trying to bypass the EGR cooler to rule that out before anything else.

changed the battery and all is well so far 😊

I've got a direct link to the Roomster workshop manual , a PDF zip file to download and a link to it unzipped https://drive.google.com/u/0/uc?id=1af6lijSW9wMtIk78Ae4MEl9KtwEWyKkL&export=download for zipfile https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CZMS4GkOTdvjJcd52m3oa6Vp8ujO7tXF?usp=sharing for unzipped I hope it is useful.

https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/trimline-scenic?activePage=trimlines&color=K4K4&configurationId=&extraEquipments=&id=GBR%3Bskoda%3B2025%3B5AZJK2%3B0%3BMSNRS18\GWAFWAF\GYONYON%3Bmda20240703083333%3Ben-GB%3B%3B64009%3B64079&interior=EO&modifiedPages=&snapshotVersion=2325cafb-18c1-4ab2-a97b-d21a089fe8af&trimline=5AJ|85 Edition6407964009&visitedPages=colors Seems Skoda just want people to buy the 85 Edition as the website keeps defaulting to it. https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/enyaq/85-edition

I've had it twice recently, occurring about 4 weeks apart. Same result, no actual faults, message disappears on restarting. I'm putting it down to a glitch. BTW, that warning is intended to indicate a fault with any of the lighting not just headlights, check all the lighting to be certain. I've had a similar 'false' message concerning lighting on another car in the past (not a Skoda).

The MK IV (4) Besides the enhanced petrol engines, which can be equipped with mild hybrid technology (mHEV) and new-generation Evo diesel engines, there is also a compressed natural gas (CNG) drive. The all-new OCTAVIA is even available as a plug-in hybrid. And yes, don’t worry, RS and SCOUT derivatives will be launched, too. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/octavia/the-all-new-skoda-octavia-has-arrived/ There is no dedicated section for the Octavia IV (phev/mhev) Cars was what i meant.

So in case anyone is interested and has the same kind of trim panel as mine, it isn't a problem - a full size spare will still fit. This style panel doesn't have a torx bolt, just a series of metal clips under the metal plate and it came out easily enough with an upward yank just as @JR RS described above. The second pic is a bit fuzzy but shows where I trimmed it. The only issue is the warning triangle is a little more difficult to remove from its recess. I used 25mm thick insulation foam under the carpet, which is quite dense but a little squishy. I have the variable loading floor and it still works, although it takes a bit of extra effort as it is working against the foam to reach the lowered position. I also found the boot partitioning feature no longer works as the catches are now flush with the under-floor instead of being raised - last pic. Small price to pay but I will see if I can 3D print some extended hooks to solve this. Overall I'm really happy with the result so thanks everyone for the advice

Bought a 2020 Superb iV. Enjoying the car but not the dealer who sold it. Arnold Clark. Shocker... Awaiting their attempt at software update. Should have been done at purchase. They have had it for 3 days. No offer of courtesy car either. Anyway maybe should have joined in less of a grumpy mood but lots of nice folk in the forum to share the highs and lows.

I remember only too well spending hours on maintenance of my first cars in the 60's. Decarbonising, changing oil every 3,000 miles, greasing regularly, etc. etc. Thank heavens we have advanced from all that, cars are infinitely better now and continue to improve year by year.

About standard set up, maybe a new navigation database upgrade is required. If it's working well then leave it alone. I've had a couple of updates on mine and since then had some issues, so it goes in for a service in Mid August, so I've requested the dealer does the 1969 update and fixes the boot pedal issue.

Provided there is ample tread and the rubber is not displaying signs of significant degradation, there is no need to replace tyres, based on age, below around 10 years.

Many thanks for the response Ootohere. It is a late 2013 plate. I have owned it from new, and nothing has been done on the transmission at all, including the 2017 onwards software update. It was originally serviced for the first 3 years by the local Skoda dealership where it was purchased, but has had no recall. There was no warning before the failure, and none of the symptoms mentioned in some of the threads. Cheers, John

Welcome. That is not a wider tyre though, it is a narrower tyre with more Profile (taller sidewall.)

Not the engine temperature, the oil temperature from the MFD, should be the third item as you scroll through. If it's not shown you'll need to go into MFD settings to enable it. The coolant temperature gauge is designed to read 90 over a large range of temperatures which is why oil temperature is a much better guide. On a recent trip with the caravan I had oil temperatures up to nearly 120 °C and the coolant gauge stayed resolutely at 90.

The Kwik-Fit website fails to recognise my 2024-registered Fabi Mk 4, but I experimented by providing the registration numbers of my 2009 Skoda Roomster and of my (now departed) 2021 Hyundai i20. In both cases the car's were accurately identified, but the Kwik-Fit inflation-pressure recommendations for the tyres fitted to those vehicles failed to match the Skoda or Hyundai advice on the cars' tyre 'stickers'. For 'normal' loading Skoda advises for my 2009 Roomster 32psi (front) and 30psi (rear) while Kwik-Fit recommends 32psi (front and rear). For 'normal' loading Hyundai advises for a 2021 i20 34psi (front) and 31psi (rear) whereas Kwik-Fit again recommends 32psi (front and rear). I don't know where Kwik-Fit gets its information from, but the Hyundai i20 Owner Manual includes a LOT of tyre/wheel data (as shown below) It's improbable that someone at Kwik-Fit is tasked to delve deeply into car Owner Manuals or check what is on inflation-pressure 'stickers' affixed to cars - it's much more likely that the inflation-pressure values quoted on the Kwik-Fit website are generic for a particular tyre-size and that the same value is then given for both axles. (i hesitate to say this, but why would a car owner bother with Kwik-Fit's recommendations, or take note of a Kwit-Fit fitter's opinion, when the manufacturer of their car provides a visible 'sticker' carrying inflation-pressure advice?)

He's asking about updating a "Swing" radio on a 2017 Skoda Octavia and providing the version numbers.

Hi W, Not sure but i think it's not the 110 ps as I thought the 110ps was for 7 speed auto?

Unfortunately I think that is an old response, referring to the launch of the original (non-FL) Octavia iV on 3 November 2020. For one thing, 3 November isn't a Tuesday in 2024... See this article from October 2020 which confirms that date in 2020. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/octavia/104231/plug-hybrid-skoda-octavia-iv-set-uk-launch-next-month

Yes, we live on a new estate where the roads haven't been finished yet (will they ever!). I slow down almost to a stop in the Yeti for a couple of ridges in the surface, out of sympathy for the car. Whereas some of the latest SUVs just carry on regardless. The 4x4 Yeti does handle ridiculously well though !

You need a good OBD scanner that can scan all VAG systems. I use VCDS and I've heard good about Carista. Your fault is very unlikely to be engine related which is the basic open standard of OBD 2, you need to scan other control modules and especially the abs module. You need the correct tools for the task, which I doubt something costing £12 is.

I mentioned in an earlier post how the Kwik-Fit online tyre pressure website was offline. Well, they seem to have given the web server a digital nudge, and it's back online now: https://www.kwik-fit.com/tyres/information/tyre-pressure-search It recommended 30 psi front and back when I put my registration in, and I was running like that for a handful of weeks. I've put them up to 32 now and I might be imagining it, but it feels about right now. I haven't noticed much difference in fuel economy running around town since I bumped the pressures up, but I'm going for an hour's drive down the M1 and back today. So I should see very soon. I get great mpg on my 110 tsi DSG anyway, so I'm sure the numbers will be about 65 mpg if I'm going steady. 🙂

I paid 140 total for 6L of the VW original fluid, came out to around 23 euros/L. Did not buy the Meyle fluid/kit.

It looks like the 3.4 Bar value shown on the Fabia Mk 4's inflation-pressure 'sticker' for R15, R16, R17 and R18 wheels is probably OK for all four wheel-sizes. My 2009 Skoda Roomster currently has Falken ZIEX ZE310 ECORUN 195/55 R15 85V tyres (sample advert here) https://www.tyres-outlet.co.uk/product/falken/ziex-ze310-ecorun/195-55-r15/r-364735 The 85V indicates (85) a maximum load of 515kg and (V) a maximum speed of 149mph. The Falken tyres' sidewall shows the maximum load as 515kg (matching the 85 Load Index) and a maximum inflation-pressure of 51 psi (3.5 Bar). So these tyres are designed to be easily capable of being run at the 3.2 Bar pressure shown on my Roomster's inflation-pressure sticker despite their Load Index being 'only' 85. My Roomster has now had three sets of tyres, initially Continental, then Hankook, now Falken and I believe the Continental and Hankook tyres would have had a 85H specification (H=130mph maximum speed). I didn't deliberately choose V-rated Falken tyres (my Roomster is hardly a rocket ship!) it's just that the Falken tyre I wanted happened to be V-rated. I may be able to confirm whether the Continental or Hankook tyres' sidewall also showed a maximum inflation-pressure around 50psi, but I'd expect that to be the case. It's worth observing, perhaps, that - while Skoda advising 2.5/2.5 Bar pressures for the front and rear tyres of a 'partially-loaded' Fabia Mk 4 and 2.7/3.4 Bar for 'fully-loaded' might seem perverse for all four wheel diameters - it would very questionable to think Skoda might advise 'unsafe' inflation-pressures too high for the car's tyres to cope with.

N suffix, with original central instrument pod. Anyway, the serious point was, at that time I hung out with mechanics, and the usual conversation regarding BLMC cars (and light vans up to Sherpa) was, "Has it warmed up yet?" "Dave, do you know where 'engine hot' on this car is?" <Dave replies> "Cheers mate; better take it for a run up the bypass then." (this meaning about 2 miles in town and 10 at NSL).

@fila_superb - thanks for the encouragement. I'm a nutcase when it comes to Gandalf, but I've tried to b as sane as possible without going over the top. 7 yrs and still enjoying every bit of it 😁

In my experience worn suspension arm rear bushes cause inner tyre wear. Get them replaced and then check wheel alignment.

This was the response from Skoda on FB re the petrol VRS....14th Aug

Although I spec’d my Yeti with 16” wheels, and that certainly improved the ride, it is still ‘hard’ and bobs passengers around on all but the smoothest roads. I really didn’t appreciate just how unrefined the ride was until I started testing more modern designs. The Yeti was, and still is, a great car for its design age (2008/09) but technology and design have moved on in the last 10+ years. Driving the Countryman you can still feel the potholes etc. but it is all so much smoother, quieter and more comfortable. I am sure the Karoq and other more modern cars are the same.

Depends which age of Mini and the gauge, I, IIRC, on my last Spridget had four different dual gauges (oil pressure/water temp) one returned as it didn't register the same as the two before and one after and I contacted the "Smiths" manufacturer (carbolt-ish sort of name) in Wales and learnt about their calibration for the water, this was closed ether tube with end bulb type of system not electric sender and gauge type. My coolant needle was well before the 'N' on the gauge for normal running, others owners worried about the needle being on the 'N' and the 'N' 80-somthing C, I always said to look at the combined gauge and if it showed about 5 to 10 passed 7 as a clock that was fine, if mine got to 'N' it meant it was a bit warmer than normal so I set the variable control for the electric fan to keep the needle before 'N'. D.FYLAKTOS would have a heart attack if he had B V8 with numbers on the dual gauge, oil pressure at idle being so low and water temp when it gets really hot and the needle pushing into the bigger numbers on the oil pressure part of the gauge. A mate had a Rover P5B and at tickover the oil pressure needle barely rose and even clogging along the needle didn't raise itself too much, I can't remember if it changed with the TVR 4l engine, such a heavy car (not compared to todays lardy cars) I can't remember that much difference in performance to the original 3.5 but I only drove it a few times with each engine. I did notice on following him back from the NEC the very small rear tail lights on a grey car out in the dark countryside a reflective rear numberplate would have sorted that but of course black goes with grey (to, too, many).

When did it have the cambelt/waterpump change done or as it not been done. If it's on the original pump and 6 years old I'd put money on it being the pump.

I didn’t at the time. I have since but will not be attempting to refuel until we get to Winchester tomorrow evening. Mind you, I’d driven about 200 miles through France and the first and last. 10 miles or so we bounced over dozens of the speed bumps the French have fallen in love with so you’d think it had had more than enough rocking about to clear the filler tube

My 2023 Fabia Mk 4 SE L has Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 195/55 R16 91V XL tyres (sample advert here) https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/goodyear/efficientgrip-performance/195-55-r16-91v-1123230 USA regulations demand that tyres marketed there carry maximum-load/maximum inflation-pressure information and, as a result, tyres available in other countries also display those data. The sidewall of my car's Goodyear tyres carries the data 'block' shown below The 615kg MAX. LOAD matches the tyre's 91 Load Index and the 340 kPa/50 psi MAX. PRESS equates to a 3.4 Bar maximum inflation-pressure. So Skoda's advice that an inflation-pressure of 3.4 Bar be used for a Fabia Mk 4's rear tyres when the car is has onboard 5 people (of an unknown weight) and 5 suitcases (of an unknown weight) represents a worst case scenario when each of the rear tyres will be carrying 615kg. That the car's rear axle's maximum permissible load of 800kg would now be exceeded by 430kg is quite another matter (!!) but at least, if the tyres were inflated to 3.4 Bar, they might survive that level of ill treatment. Tyres having the 195/55 R16 91V XL specification should have the same maximum load-carrying and inflation-pressure values, so Skoda can provide the same pressure guidance irrespective of whether the tyres are made by Goodyear, Continental, Bridgestone etc. It looks like the tyres fitted to 17" wheels also have a 91 Load Index, so I'd expect them to carry on their sidewall a 50 psi maximum-pressure value. I'm unsure about the tyres that are apparently fitted to a Fabia Mk 4's 15" or 18" wheels as the information on Skoda's website indicates that these have a lower Load index, which might, in turn, mean that they are not designed to be inflated as high as 3.4 Bar. Owners of Fabia Mk 4 cars with 15" or 18" wheels are invited to check what's on the tyres' sidewall. If the maximum-pressure datum proves to be below 340 kPa/50 psi (3.4 Bar) they may then wish to interrogate Skoda about whether there's a conflict with the 3.4 Bar recommendation on their car's 'sticker'.

if you’ve the Canton sound system, you’ll have an amp/audio module under the passenger side seat. This will require an update of it own to have any affect. I had my system updated to fix audio dropouts. It’s also worth mentioning that some menus are produced by the multimedia unit and some by individual modules. Radio, Navigation, Smartlink, Voice Control, Settings = Multimedia Unit 5F Driver Assist settings, vehicle settings, ambient lighting = Central Electronics 09 (but also relies on modules like Driver Assistance A5 to be coded correctly to display certain menu items) Climate Control = Climatetronic Module 08 The climate menu is probably the best example of how updates to the multimedia module have no effect. Despite Skoda upgrading me from 1896 to 1941, then 1949 to 1969 myself. It had no affect on the climate menu and I continued to have sync memory issues etc… However, once they upgraded my climatronic module (there is a whole thread on this) it was fixed. The car would remember the Sync state and the menu responded a lot quicker - similar to the sped increase going from 1896 to 1941. if you look at videos for the Octavia facelift, you’ll see many of the menus are identical despite the new MIB4 infotainment (really a reskin of MIB3 or MIB3.5). That’s because the underlying modules would have similar if not the same software versions as our pre-facelift vehicles despite a whole new multimedia unit.

I found mention in Andrt's book, it says special/optional equipment but nothing about origin.. and no mention of thermostat. Trying to find some more info, I only found some old listings, showing that it was made by Autopal (manufacturer of the factory coolant radiators) And photos of installed cooler

Very different propositions. We've had several Octavia's and still have a hatchback, we've had four Yeti's that your coming from and we have a Karoq. We also have the 1.0TSi but in a Fabia. The Octavia has far more boot space, the seating position is lower which you know and the Octavia feels quite a bit longer when parking. The Karoq has a lower roof line than the Yeti and it's easier to stand on the door sills to load the roof. The Karoq has lighter steering and more supple suspension over poor roads than the Octavia. It depends which age of Octavia you are going for but I find the Karoq interior and infotainment superior to the current Octavia. For both Karoq and Octavia estate I'd recommend the 1.5 though. Economy is virtually the same and it's a lot smoother unit especially when combined with DSG. You also have a lot more power in reserve which can be really felt when loaded.

The car had always had a wierd dead spot when initially turning the wheel, that didn’t inspire a lot of confidence. I had a good lever around the other week and found the rear wishbone bush on the drivers side was knackered and could be moved up and down and it’ll stay there, so ordered a pair of wishbones and changed them both. safe to say the drivers one was knackered as it nearly fell out when removed 😲. Hopefully all good for the foreseeable now except maybe a wheel alignment as I had to drop subframe to do them. I shall see how it drives . some pics

Took me a while but have now found how to control rear temp, seat heat and vent. On the main screen go to the heating display and select rear seats, top left is a control to lock or not lock the rear seat controls, unlock and you can change everything from the back seats, you can also sync with the fronts, seems they are locked as standard.

Ok here are a couple: Another observation when comparing with the mk3 Rear passenger heating controls: No air flow control wheel anymore. Only directional control. Seems a bit of an oversight. Maybe there’s a control that the driver has instead eg heat or not heat the rear. Haven’t looked at that yet. Heated rear seats still there though. No more front fog lights. I think the led headlights do it all now. The little offside under dash cubbyhole is now gone. Always the way when you’re comparing against what went before. Otherwise one would be none the wiser. No getting away from it being a lovely car though 😊

Midsummer city skyline

just wait for climate changes before we started i checked two weeks forecast for Bergen, which were cloudy rainy 14-18c in reality just two days i didn't wear a shorts, temperatures in the cities were 18-30c, just in mountains lowest were seen 7c as alternative for Norway i can suggest Slovenia

MY2017 Sportline 280 4x4

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Yesterday i finished fantastic 3615 km round trip across Sweden and Norway Thanks to the default speed limit 80 km/h, got numbers which i haven't ever seen before - top score on the display were 6.5 l/100km. Calculation for whole trip is 7.8 (36mpg) by filled 98/95 vs kms Keeping to the speed limit didn't save me from being stopped by an unmarked traffic police car, Škoda Superb wagon followed me about 15 kms - they didn't like the maneuver of overtaking a nearly stationary car as driving in the opposite direction Enyaq was still ~500 meters away, i overtook without using the accelerator pedal and returned to my line No fine just papers/trunk check and talking about driving safety (first hour in Norway) . . . . . .

Hi all, Been lurking for a few years now. I'm on my 2nd Skoda, I have a MY2017 Superb Sportline 280 4x4 DSG Few mods:- R600 pikey airbox mod K&N panel filter MST turbo bend APR coil packs VW Touran gear shifter Connect Motorsport coilpack grounding kit Additional engine cover DTE PedalBox Progressive wing mirror indicators Skoda logo puddle light Lots of sound deadening!

So, inspired by the Superb insulation topic and this one I gave a try on my Octavia 1.5. Did the wheel arches on the outside, the doors, the B-pillars and the floor under backseat. Maybe in the future I will give a try also on the boot floor + sides ( C pillars + arches on the inside ) Made measures with an mobile phone app before and after. Same road, 85km/h on cruise test for 5min with ventilation + radio off. 73db before and 69db after. Happy with the results. In my opinion wheel arches are a must against the road noise( personally I run on 18" with Potenza T005). Used only few butyl mats but a lot of 6mm armaflex( maybe 9mm is better but this is what I got).