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I think the 1.5 TSI Karoq DSG is great for relaxed economic motoring. My current avg is 51 Mpg on my 10 mile commute and around 55-60 Mpg on A road and motorway journey keeping up with free-flowing traffic. Generally it's a very smooth and quiet motor but a bit raucous when kicking-down under full acceleration. I find it's much safer and smoother to use the steering wheel paddles to drop a gear to overtake as kickdown is slow and can drop down 2 gears. It has sufficient torque in 6th or 7th year to build speed quickly from around 50 Mph.

Refill refrigerant, then troubleshoot if necessary. May not be any remaining problem to solve after that. Oh, just one other thing, does your engine coolant expansion tank say "Mit silikat" on the outside? I'm sure I've read about asymmetric heating/cooling when heater matrix gets clogged up. (Maybe only heating, now I think on it).

If you get rubbing, it's not the rim that rubs but the outside of the tyre. Fitting a 225/50R17 to a 7.5J rim instead of a 7J rim will increase the inflated tyre's width by about 6mm, ie. 3mm each side. Fitting a 225/50R17 to a 7.5J rim width instead of a 7J rim width will make the ride slightly harder, and provide a little less protection from kerbing damage. Outside width of inflated tyre (measured from the outside of one sidewall to the outside of the other sidewall, at the widest point) 225/50R17 fitted to 7J rim 233mm 225/50R17 fitted to 7.5J rim 239mm How much the sidewalls bulge out each side from the rim 225/50R17 fitted to a 7J rim 15.6mm 225/50R17 fitted to a 7.5J rim 12.25mm

@SkodaManiaq I visited the dealership again today while the problem was happening and the technicians have replaced the oil level & temperature sensor. The problem should be fixed now, but I will let you know if it still happens.

The key thing is the after evaporator temperature, 5.7°c with an outside air temp of 40°c is excellent, putting the fan on high increased it to 25°c confirming your thoughts that the system does not have enough power to cope with the refrigeration demand on full blower setting. That could indicate a low refrigerant charge but I think that your pressure is correct, the stupid VAG/VCDS set up reports absolute pressure and not gauge pressure so you can deduct 1 bar/15psi from your figures, the figures that you have read on Youtube are almost certainly for an ambient temperature of 20°c. R134a static system pressure (guage pressure not absolute pressure) will rise from 70psi at 20°c to 130psi at 40°c, the high side pressure when system running with an ambient temperature of 40°c will be between 180 and 225psi, that is a figure to cover all vehicles and the variable output VAG type with the modulating valve will be lower than this unless under maximum load, my gauge measurements at 20°c vehicle idling at standstill show the high side pressure rising to 150psi at which point the fans cut in and it drops to 100psi, this falls within the range given on the R134a tables of 100-150psi at 20°c. Are the fans running correctly on your vehicle? Your system will never have enough power to cool your car right down when idling with 40°c ambient temperature, if you look at the figures the air coming out of the vents has dropped by over 25°c at the lower fan setting, aside from the sticking flap mixing hot air to the left vents I say your system is working perfectly, it was designed for average European temperatures probably biased towards the cooler countries. If you want maximum cooling on maximum fan speed you need to drive the car at speed. Most of us have gradually worked these things out, we know high fan speeds at standstill create less cooling, when my car has stood in the sun I leave the windows open initially, use the AC on min temp and fan speed 1, once moving I will switch up to fan speed 2 and close the windows, when the interior temp has dropped enough I will switch to recirculation mode and put the fan on the highest setting. I think you are expecting too much of your system and have a problem with the blending flap for the left hand side.

If it did all diesel owners would be in trouble. It actually freezes at minus 11 degrees, a temperature which we are unlikely to see frequently in most of the UK. #https://filowholesaleltd.com/blogs/news/can-adblue-freeze

And update: Replaced front sensor, and everything is OK and no fault codes. Lights work like they're supposed to as far as I can tell.

Our O4 controls road noise pretty well, but it depends on the road surface. Before, all our roads were really noisy and you couldn't help it, but nowadays it is much better. It also depends on expectations, but comparing to similar pricing cars, it is quieter. Comparing to BMW 5 it is not. Wind noise is nearly non existing, road noise on our 205/55R17 wheels highly depending on the road surface.

I am a 3.5 miles to the kWh type of driver on whatever bev I drive other than when trying to better that. Any electric car I get in I just work it out as doing 3 miles a kWh and anything better is a bonus. Reviewers pee me off quoting WLTP and range when they are driving like anyone else might and are not getting 5:miles a kWh. Pi$$ing down today. Good for my efficiency. Crap for going to enjoy a golf tournament. Going for a scoot round the South west 300 instead. So sitting at 100% and need at least 3 planned chargers to be working. Last 100 mikes worths of charging away from home had been £12, £12, and £9.50. that is pretty much the cost of an ICE vehicles fueling. I had to use a 11 kW AC charger for 30 kWh of charge and that took 2 hours 40 minutes. 13% to 100%, 12 miles to 107 miles showing.

What sort of cable is it? Does it have a self adhuster/ ratchet mechanism? You should have some fee play on the pedal. If over adjusted then the clutch may slip.

What hasn't broken yet in your car? My mechatronics unit is still original at 309k miles. Anyone have a unit that lasted longer? The flywheel springs snapped at 280k and also took out the shaft. Both flywheel and clutch pack were replaced. I've just been told I need a gearbox bush mount for engine stabilisation. That's lasted from the factory 309k miles . 4 hour labour to get subframe off and everything. The turbo has never had issues. Examined at 270k Neither the engine (CFGB diesel) Compression test 40k miles ago at 270k miles showed 26 psi across all cylinders. DPF is still from factory. Had 1 "clean" service from injector gun. But it takes more effort to complete a regen cycle now and much more smoke + smell. Having to use a Carista obd to manually trigger regen at time of my choosing and using vag pdf app to monitor all the data plus only regen on the motorway as it can no longer complete a cycle in the town without the cabin being choked with fumes EGR died at approx 190k, no emissions fix Throttle valve at 150k, had egr nozzle rotated per skoda recall instructions Door looms lasted 250k before both front doors started breaking, requiring intermittent fixing since. Surprisingly my 2 rear shock absorbers from factory are still fine at 309. Front shocks and springs died at 298 and 300 Back Springs / all 4 arms (every 150k it seems to last, so will be on 3rd set of arms soon) / bushes / droplinks / bearings etc obviously dies as you drive. Current ABS module has lasted 250k miles and still working Starter motor still from factory. Alternator from factory died at 200k All door locks / boot hinges still factory All power steering still factory My columbus still works. Just always had annoying problem where if my phone is connected to Bluetooth and I make a call when the columbus is either off or I'm not playing music through Bluetooth, no sound at all unless engine is fully shut for 5+ mins to reset connection. So I always make sure I play music on Bluetooth until u hear sound before I make a phone call Aircon compressor died at about 150k or 7 years of age of car. Serviced (minor interim minor major) never oil light before service every 9400 miles or less at dealership initially then at VW specialist garage. DSG oil service every 37.6k miles /every 4th service or less. Car has about 3 MOT equivalent checks and 4 services a year. So it's checked about as comprehensively as you can get.

Best MPG I’ve had in the 280. Surbiton to the Stena line port at Birkenhead plus one stop on the M6 Toll.

If you know where the leak is you can fix it without removing the pipe using epoxy and a pipe clip, epoxy will handle the pressure and temperature easily and the clip will prevent it ever coming off.

Back in a Škoda after a two year break with a petrol MG ZS (was a nice car, my one worked, but was increasingly feeling mine was the exception rather than the rule so moved it on while still worth something). Had one of the first Rapid Spacebacks in the UK and kept it for over 8 years before trading it in against the MG. Lured back to both Škoda and regular height cars by a 2023 Superb 1.5 TSI SE Technology. A Škoda UK management car and one of the last made before the new model took over the production line. Was 11 months old when I got it at the beginning of June. It’s a hell of a car.

If it was clogged unevenly so that one side was hotter than the other you might. But I agree, it's probably not relevant if you have no silikat 'pollution'.

Yes, but if the various control flaps are mis-directing the air leaving the evaporator, it could be involved in causing asymmetric temperatures, if temperature is uneven across its width, and cooled air is wrongly being sent through.

You are right it is only for the engine cooling and heating the interior of the car. Different system different circuit. But to answer you question about mit silikat, no it doesn’t have this bag. I think on late 2013 and up they removed this expansion tank bag.

Eliminating hesitation begins by switching off the Stop/Start (nonsense) button. ECO mode is also banned. Another killer option. Next, make use of Sport mode to get that extra sharpness from standstill. And also improves response on the move. A simple click of the gear selector lever. Flicking the gear selector sideways to hold a gear longer also helps responsiveness at times. I flip / flop all the time to suit the road conditions. And my mood. Auto this and auto that does not mean that the driver should abandon all responsibility for making best use of the vehicle. Various other 21st century “safety features” might also be switched off. Such as lane control, speed limit sign control, collision protection. ACC also carries some nonsense behaviour. Our Polo has ACC while I prefer my standard cruise control. It stays on till I tell it otherwise. My wife and I have enjoyed DSG on 8 VAG vehicles since 2008 and I reckon we’ve got to grips with them. I love DSG.

No disrespect meant to you but I wondered if you knew about tyres when you put comfort is king yet you have 19" wheels with 40 profile tyres. For decades now the fashion has been to have bigger wheels and wider width shorter height sidewalls tyres. This is the equivalent of wearing a party frock and high heels when you really need to be in sensible clothes (nearer suiting race tracks than our 3rd-world roads). The size of the wheels is primarily to get over the brakes and take fully loaded weight of the car, the tyre size is also about taking the weight of the fully loaded car. The tyres are a very undervalued very complex very important component on the car, they have great effect on the braking, steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noise. The size of the tyres in themselves in road holding and grip are not that greatly influenced within a the range of sizes the manufacturer offers but more abut the design, build and composition of the actual tyre chosen or compared. So say a 215/55ZR15 tyre of one make and model could be superior to, and outperform, a 235/40/ZR19 of another make and model. Just for your info some of the sizes given for tyres are nominal, good enough for size comparisons but not strictly accurate, if you look in a tyre manufacturer's catalogue you will see the tyres can vary in size very slightly and things like new tread depth can vary, e.g. one tyre may start with 7-8 mm tread depth against another that starts with 6.5 mm. That doesn't mean you've been diddled out of 0.5-1.5 mm of tread depth, different tyres wear the tread depths at different rates (though much will be about the car, how and where it's driven). Have a look at the links below to help see the differences in different tyre sizes to your car. It may help you to know that 80% profile tyres were a standard decades back (and well before that 100%) and 70% was low-profile, and 13" and 14" wheels were standard, 15" for sportier and/or heavier cars (the cars then weren't as bloated and lardy as they are now though, they were much lighter). Have a look at the 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on this site (link below) for all those swapping from larger wheels and tyres to smaller wheels and tyres for comfort (you do not lose much, if any, handling but it depends on the tyres you choose), you can no doubt also find such threads on this forum. You can also sometimes see these changes in the 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' and 'Swap Zone' in the 'Marketplace' section of this site. HTH. 'WhatTyre' - 'How to read your tyre size' - https://whattyre.com/how-to-read-your-tyre-size/ Tyre size calculator - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ 'Tyres & Wheels' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-wheels/ 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/ 'Swap Zone' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/272-swap-zone/

First impression …. The bronze colour that looks so vibrant in the media release looks more like a muddy English mustard. Very disappointing. the interior seems more spacious and the seats seem more supportive. we’ll find out on Sunday during our test drive.

Have you tried putting a jump lead from the body to engine/gearbox? This could help tell you if you have a bad earth/ground issue somewhere.

On the Yeti it was controlled by a setting in the 'Convenience' section of the Maxi-Dot display.

Thanks Pete super star as always 👍

As you allude to I would be taking it off to clean it. However, unless the car was high mileage (120k+) I would be considering my need for a DPF equipped car. If your regens are too often then you either have a high mileage hero and it's simply coming to the life of the DPF or you are not doing enough of the correct type of driving. I'm an advocate of using good fuel to prolong the life of the engine and associated parts but there comes a limit to where you need to switch to a better solution.

By all means, if you can live with the high bite then just leave it alone. It's not adjustable by the way, hydraulic systems never are.

Well, I recommend talking to local taxi drivers about who might do a DPFectomy...

4 tyres or pairs of 2 do not need to be set at the same pressure so the tyres having the same circumference. You can set at what you want and the car registers. You can put on an odd 1 out SPARE of a slightly different size / circumference, reset the TPMS and in many VW group cars just carry on with no warnings. Some will have some functions disabled. But then using CC or ACC with an emergency spare on of a different size, weight, tyres compound / type is not Simply Clever.

Also @lol-lol - Or the scenario reverses; Lead gets t-boned, and the car is now out of action. Chase is a primary witness and going nowhere either until the Police allow them to.

PM'd on the off chance this might still be up for sale.

If the readings are correct, it is blowing cool air, but it always depends on the outer air temperature and fan speed as you noticed. It is able to reduce from 40 to 15C, this looks like thing is working great. If fan speed is higher, there is less contact of this particular volume of air you measure and you get blowing out warmer - but in general complete volume of air in cabin will be exchanged faster. What I do when it is very hot outside, in the beginning I switch on air recirculation. Later on I switch it back to full auto. These days heat is extreme in our region, I suppose all A/Cs struggle.

Being a thermodynamics nut I a constantly scour the road conditions and other vehicles, it becomes a in journey game to maximise the mileage, looking for the aero tow for that transit van that is doing the sweet spot of about 65 mph, looking for the stickers that say 70 mph, or 68 mph or similar on the back of the vehicle. Bit sad I kn ow but it keeps me amused and sharp during the journey. Some disappointment is that I rarely get to public charge ie 4 times in nearly 20k miles despite doing 200 mile round trips. Zoe is the queen of long distance EV trips, not the quickest to charge via DC, one of the best by AC if you can find 11, 16 or 22 kW AC. I will miss the Zoe when I trade it in within a few months for the Scenic, still split on whether to get the 60 kWh or the 87 kWh version, the latter being an easy well over 300 mile range EV, heat pumps as standard, predictive preheating of battery to get maximum charge rate, it will deprive me of one of my favourite games. I see TESLA owners are being offered 30 to 50 mile range extension by having a BMS update, $1000 in the US. worth a thought for most I suppose. TESLA just raised prices in EU to counterbalance new import tariffs, UK model 3 SR+ still just under £40K RRP.

I had a Megane 2 for 15 years, indeed - the build quality was far better then compared to nowadays. I wouldn't say it was the quietest car I had, but it was a diesel - that might explain why. Had also an mk4 Megane for 2 years, also diesel - it was better soundproofed compared to the mk2, also slightly better materials inside here and there, but it was not as reliable as the mk2. Now back on topic, the mk4 Octavia, even with it's bigger diesel engine was quieter than the above-mentioned Megane(s) - which for me it meant that Skoda took greater care in isolating the engine-bay noise. (there's also some technical and soundproofing material evolution to be taken into account, since the Megane 2 was lauched in 2001 IIRC, and the M4 in 2016). Most of the noise I had in the cabin of Octavia was coming from the lower side, especially from the front - that's why I mentioned in my previous post the tires were noisy. And to support this idea, the noise (intensity and frequency) was changing with the tarmac texture. On the other hand, I added the optional soundproofing side windows, so most of the aerodynamic noise at high speed was kept outside.

No, I have 45 now. I think keeping 45 on a 7.5 shouldn't be an issue: Anything 40 to 45 would also fit easily I think, and make it appear slightly larger:

Indirect TPMS will only alert u if there is a rotational difference (equating to 4 psi or more) between all 4 tyres. Indirect does not have a target tyre pressure like Direct TPMS. Hence even if all 4 tyres r at 20 psi, no warnings or alerts. If all 4 tyres r at 50 psi, no warnings. If all 4 r at 30 psi, no warnings. But if one of them is 20 psi, and the other 3 r at 30 psi, then u'll get warnings. Direct TPMS on the other hand has a target pressure, and a sensor inside each tyre to measure the actual pressure.

Yes, an 'imbalance' detector. Prior to changing them, the old tyres they were pumped up for a full load, with TPMS set accordingly. The new tyres are inflated to 'normal' load so the rears were 10psi less. Whilst I was initially frustrated that I couldn't reset the TPMS system/alert on the way home from the tyre depot, it does make a lot of sense for the system to be such that you have to stop and switch off - at least it creates the opportunity/impression that the driver has checked the tyres before resetting it.

That link is for an Octavia MK3. The OP has an Octavia MK4. The below foam and jack kit with OEM part number 5E3093860B includes everything except for the actual space saver spare wheel, which can be purchased separately using OEM part number 5E3601011B. The specification of the space saver spare wheel is 125/70R18 fitted to a 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim. The 18" space saver can be purchased from ebay. Sometimes you can get old but unused ones for about £40 which is much less than a new one. Foam and jack kit for Octavia MK4 5E3093860B (1609CZK is about £53.54) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-18/p/5E3093860B Space saver spare wheel 125/70R18 fitted to 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim 5E3601011B (3979CZK is about £132.39) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/rezervni-kolo-18-dojezdove/p/5E3601011B Notice in the chart below, that 135/70R18 and 145/70R18 are closer to the outside diameters of the standard Octavia MK4 tyre sizes than the rather small 125/70R18. The 135/70R18 and 145/70R18 could be fitted to the same 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim. However, 145/70R18 is quite an expensive tyre size and its outside diameter is bigger than all but one of the standard Octavia MK4 tyre sizes. For these reasons, 135/70R18 could be a good choice. Outside diameter of tyre 205/60R16 652.4mm 205/55R17 657.3mm 225/45R18 659.7mm 225/40R19 662.6mm 125/70R18 632.2mm (4.6% smaller than 225/40R19) 135/70R18 646.2mm (2.5% smaller than 225/40R19) 145/70R18 660.2mm (0.4% smaller than 225/40R19) Yokohama 135/70R18 space saver tyre https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Yokohama/Y870CN/T135-70-D18-103M/R-454785 Yokohama 145/70R18 space saver tyre https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Yokohama/Y870C/T145-70-D18-107M/R-289739 Notice in the ETRTO chart below, that both 135/70R18 and 145/70R18 can be fitted to a 3.5" rim width. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 135/70R18 3.5-4.0-4.5 145/70R18 3.5-4.5-5.0 I don't know how much space there is for a spare tyre, but if a punctured (ie. so that the tyre is fully deflated) 225/45R18 or 225/40R19 fits, it should be possible to fit a 205/60R16 fitted to a 6.5Jx16 ET46 rim or a 205/55R17 fitted to a 6.5Jx17 ET46 rim. If these wheels fit, then it's likely that a 205/55R17 fitted to a 6.5Jx17 ET49 5/112 57.1 steel rim would also fit. The 6.5Jx17 ET49 5/112 57.1 steel rim is from a 2020 onwards VW Caddy, and the ET49 offset will move the centre of the tyre 3mm inwards in the wheelarch compared to the standard ET46 offset that both the 16" and 17" rims use. The reason that I mention the 6.5Jx17 ET49 steel rims from the 2020 onwards VW Caddy is because steel rims don't appear to be available in the standard 6.5Jx17 ET46 specification, only alloy rims...ie. new steel rims tend to be quite a bit cheaper than new alloy rims. The OP doesn't mention whether his Octavia MK4 VRS is petrol or diesel. The petrol VRS will need at least 17" rims to clear the brake calipers due to its 340x30mm front brake discs and 310x22mm rear brake discs, whereas the diesel VRS can use 16" rims due to its smaller 312x25mm front brake discs and 272x10mm rear brake discs. However, always check the car's build codes to be sure what brakes are fitted to any particular car.

@lol-lol 165 miles range showing with 71%. That was the driver previously driving economically that had the 165 miles showing. 52 kWh usable. X 4 miles a kWh is 208 miles. Lets say 36 kWh x 4 = 144 miles. If the 36 kWh was usable to get 165 miles would be over 4.5 miles a kWh required.

Re a quote from 'Rooster' I believe. Thanks. AG Falco

Take a look at OBDeleven. Far more affordable than VCDS and 80% of the functions. Make sure to go for pro version and ignore the inbuilt apps. There are stories of the apps breaking things and they don't keep a record of changes. Coding changes via pro yourself keeps a record, at least it did last time I made significant changes.

Attach vacuum cleaner to oil filler. Remove sensor and fit new one 😁

Thanks, I would have been heartened if they had taken as long as that to do the jobs really well and check out everything they could.

That is very good for a 6 speed 280. I think the best I got was around 34. My new 7 speed 280 is better on the motorway, I get around 40 on a long run at 75.

What J.R is getting at is if there is a sensor reading 10 degrees lower than it should be, the control module won’t know this is a bad reading and may output air significantly hotter than it needs to, to compensate for this. To self diagnose these issues you need a complete set of data for the car, all the temperature sensors, flap positions etc. maybe some cheap thermometers for comparison.

It is good when you get AC systems like in your Stillo. But this is VW Group and not Audi or Porsche. If the temp is 31*oC or 39*oC outside then the inside is higher and you are trying to cool to over 25*oC less. It does make a difference. A Digital Fridge Thermostat is about 3 euro. Then you will know how low a temperature the AC can get the cabin too. (and tyre temps can get checked as well when doing pressures, maybe when there is a TPMS warning and it is a sticky brake caliper, or a bearing going and a wheel getting hot.)

I fully agree if you are planning on keeping the car past year 3. I have taken the manufacturer extended warranty previously, and on my current Kodiaq, which is just over 2 years old, but change in circumstances means I no longer need 7 seater big car so downsizing to a Kamiq, so I believe next owner will benefit from extended warranty at my expense.

Yesterday i finished fantastic 3615 km round trip across Sweden and Norway Thanks to the default speed limit 80 km/h, got numbers which i haven't ever seen before - top score on the display were 6.5 l/100km. Calculation for whole trip is 7.8 (36mpg) by filled 98/95 vs kms Keeping to the speed limit didn't save me from being stopped by an unmarked traffic police car, Škoda Superb wagon followed me about 15 kms - they didn't like the maneuver of overtaking a nearly stationary car as driving in the opposite direction Enyaq was still ~500 meters away, i overtook without using the accelerator pedal and returned to my line No fine just papers/trunk check and talking about driving safety (first hour in Norway) . . . . . .

To bring things back on track, I'm pleased to announce that the Skoda was NOT sold, and is still in the process of being restored, albeit slowly! During 2023 I was diagnosed with a serious medical problem which I'm glad to say that I've almost fully recovered. It was this medical scare that prompted my initial decision to sell the car, although I'm now glad I didn't do so. I had fitted a new starter motor to the engine block a year or so ago and I've now reconnected the wiring. The starter motor now spins the block over with no problems, so I'm moving on to reconnecting the rest of the car. The gear linkage is back in place and I've taken the opportunity to remove the engine block water pipe & the rubber hose connecting it to the pump. I've cleaned these areas and replaced the 2 Jubilee clips as well. I had had to unscrew the bolts between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe, in order to drop the down pipe to exchange the starter motors, but in doing so I'd damaged the threads. To sort this I've now removed the exhaust and inlet manifolds, together with the Jikov carburettor, which in turn involved disconnecting the choke, distributor vacuum and accelerator linkages. Not too difficult, but the damaged bolts on the exhaust manifold are stuck fast. I think I'll have to ask a local garage to re-thread the existing bolts, so I can fit new nuts. On a happier note I've fitted the new ignition key switch and have moved the driver's door skin, prior to fitting the new lock. More news anon......

I'm afraid so - It is a well known issue, try a search on the forum for sticking clutch pedal.

yum yum https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266797257983