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A few little finesses that made me happy... 2017 Greenline Combi (160k - 2nd keeper) Moonstone with black wheels and badges: ▪︎LED rear indicators ▪︎Dynamic LED mirror indicators (nasty job) ▪︎6k white reversing LEDs ▪︎LED white rear plate lights ▪︎LED white interior tail lights ▪︎set of official Superb mats

What discourages you from getting another Camry?

I'm not vouching for this information you understand. Just sharing what I was told. I challenged the change to 2 year guideance and the dealer acknoweldged this was different and showed me a web page that did indeed say every 2 years, but I don't know who's web page that was. Would a main dealer bare faced lie about it I wonder? ...and no, I'm sure they won't remove the pump or clean the screen.

We’ve had a 2015 Polo with the DQ200 for seven years now, and it’s been faultless. Gaz

Thankfully we have found them now. They were in my sister in-laws handbag she called the next day to let us know, God knows how they ended up in there!?. If the worst case had happened I would have had to DHL them over and hope they didn't go missing in the post.....but crisis adverted

As someone working in IT I'm genuinely upset about the amount of waste computer equipment and peripherals getting junked as they are 'no longer supported' after seemingly minimal updates. Pallets of IT get taken away at a cost to be recycled - and it's been exposed what an environmental disaster that is. I get the impression that they are mostly just piling up these days. Even my own PC (around 10 years old) is not being supported beyond Windows 10. 18650 cells in the packs noticeably lose capacity over time. So for me EV's have no appeal. It's like they took all the things I don't like and put them in one place. Add to that the issue of finding charge in deepest rural Devon where regularly visit and it pretty much leaves me with nothing. To top it off they are often to be seen at the front of a line of slow moving cars as they are likely trying to conserve power. While overtaking a Tesla in my Skoda Estelle I found it almost laughable.

New ARB collar bolts, the old ones were pretty crusty and although came out OK I wouldnt want to use them again. Most of the underside is pretty crusty and at some point Ill need to start thinking about various arms, bushes and the subframes itself. Until that day, on with the mods! Next on the list is an APR billet steel dogbone insert and when I have a good day to do it a full machine polish.

So, I finally got around to tackling the rear suspension. Fitted: -Second hand Club sport bar (bought from eBay for £120 with rubbers, collars and droplinks) -Bilstein B4 rear shocks I have access to a pit so I started by removing all the M10 torx bolts on the collars, then the droplink bolts and managed to get the old one out without jacking it up. Could I get the new one in? Nope! Pulled it out of the garage, jacked both sides quite high, dropped the wheels and shock absorbers off, then undid the mounts for the rear exhaust rubbers and the one behind the rear axle so the new ARB could be fitted. If anyone wants the Clubs sport ARB code its 5Q0 511 305 BA. Once the new ARB was on (new collar bolts were £17 for 4 from Skoda dealer) changed over dust covers, bumpstops and topmounts onto the new shocks and fitted.

Feel for you, mate…. The TW Hybrid Ceramic Wax products are excellent and after buffing, your shoulder will still feel OK too if your new DA runs outta battery!

that has to do with the gearbox. The DSG is rated to 2500.

It’s a difficult thing to suggest what to do next. The change of noise with engine temperature does suggest the chain/ tensioner shifting somehow or maybe the oil level is wrong or the oil flow is blocked. But that is unlikely to be affected by the direction the car is moving in. The turning right thing does suggest suspension/ drive train/ mounts/ wheel bearings etc. I’m afraid I can’t help any further but it will be interesting to know what the problem is. John

AFAIK the unlock with a key blade is a purely mechanical unlock with no electrical unlock signal being generated.

@michaelc - Well, FWIW Toyotas used to be common hereabouts, but have become rare over the last 30 years or so.

Welcome. The folding passenger seat was offered as an option on some models but as you have found, they are as rare as rocking horse poo. I considered one when I bought my Yeti (not sure if they were still available though) but realised a standard, fully reclined passenger seat was more suited to my needs. Regarding the swivel base: Even if it were possible to fit one, I very much doubt there would be sufficient clearance around the seat to allow it to turn. Try unbolting the seat sometime to check you can turn it through 180 degrees within the space available.

Defenetly not the head gasket. Even if it was It can't drip on the exhause haders. I can see the top of the headers are oily. These engines have the head in 3 parts. On the cylinder you have the head it self and on the head you have the camshaft module and on top of that you have the valve cover that includes the PCV valve. I tought that maybe there is a leak between the head and the camshaft module, but i glued an aluminium L profile to the module so if it leaks between the head and the module I would still smell the oil, but if it leaks between the module and valve cover it would stop and the oil would accumulate in the L profile. And I do have oil acummulating there, so it must be the valve cover wich is new

There are four cabin fuses shown as involved in your A/C system, Fuse number (Fuse rating) 8 (5) 9 (5) 22 (7.5) 39 (30) There's also the 50A strip fuse in battery fuseholder (2nd from right I think) that feeds the fan control module. If all of those are intact, I would be checking the wiring to the compressor control solenoid, and checking that the compressor shear plate hasn't lived up to its name and resulted in the pulley spinning but the compressor shaft not.

Sorry i'm not so familiar with miles and gallons, but in fact it drink way too much for my feeling and in MPG it looks also way more dramatic. I suspect this abolutely unneeded (and maybe wrong - in my opinion the 23DD was for 1.6 Tdi) MSG-"Update" (Raised Add-Blue-Consumption, AGR recircling, Higher Diesel-consumption from higher frequented DPF-Regeneration aso... 🤢

Yes, I realise that. https://www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/fuelconsumption.php

The numbers i told are litres of Diesel, not gallons, if it were so, i had to light it up instantly. 😉 But still way more than enough. In fact not when driving. 😁

Volvo was 2 years / 20,000 miles for years. They are worth doing to that schedule when the car is a keeper. It all adds up to high running costs for servicing with Main Dealers and even can be with Independents. As long as they are doing it properly then why not go with that intervals. But how much are we at now for a clean out and oil change £140? Or do they want more? PS. Cars with the front VAQ diffs are now @2 years / 20,000 miles, some places are not even telling owners the 3 years / 30,000 miles they were at. Some owners have cars with them never serviced.

Reg plate number or VIN to enable detailed spec to be accessed would be key to me helping here.

Good Lord! That's about 37.7 MPG, which would be disappointing for a petrol, IMO. I know Kodiaq's are big, but that's quite poor for a 150ps TDI. You're not driving around with the handbrake on, are you? 😋

Hi EnterName and thank you! At the moment we are standing and 7.5 and going up. The Octi took 5 to 5.3. (I am not the "racer" anymore.) More than 2 litres more for +400kg and +40hp is not really that what i expected for a 17 1/2 year "more modern" technic. And it not only consumes Diesel, but also AddBlue quite generous (But not have exact Values at the moment) I also noticed, that it got a "voluntary" MSG update (23DD) in 2021 🤢. Thank you and Sorry Ootohere, of course i am greeting all Gals, Ladies and the other 22 or 26 genders too... 😉 It seems it will be best to greet the whole community to keep it simple in the future.

Get a warranty, and then when the time comes & it expires an extended warranty that covers the DSG.

@Warrior193 the image below matches the engine in the car. cheeers

Welcome. Kangerooing should not be an issue 2020/21 with a 1.5TSI ACT DSG (Nor the DQ200 DSG an issue.) Cambelt change price neither for maybe another 8 years or more. No longer schedule, advice or guidance as being @ 5 years / 50,000 miles in the UK. You are only buy 1 car so how few there might be around does not matter if you can find 1 you want. There will be 3 year old lease cars arriving at auction and into the used car trade as we get through the summer, so more 2021 cars available.

Update: Issue was investigated by Medlicott Motors (CW12 1NJ, Congleton) and eventually found some evidence of copper oxidisation on contacts inside the engine compartment fuse box. Cleaned up and put back together. So far the error has not repeated so this may be the root cause. 👏😃

Riken. Are they made in Serbia? Total crap tire, good only for snow.

Thanks, I will leave well alone.

The DSG reset is a red herring. It doesn't change any driving characteristics and the DSG does not learn. What it does do is adapt to varying driving conditions over time regardless of if you reset it or not. The reset you get in OBDeleven/VCDS is clutch point adaptation that can have affect on how the gearbox shifts. However, it will return to how it responds during normal use. If you drive it with harder acceleration more often, then it might be more eager to change gear. If you drive more gently it will be a little more sedate. No amount of resets or adaptation will change that. If you are wanting faster shifts then it either needs a service or TCU remap.

This is one test but not necessarily conclusive. Another test is to get up to a cruising speed (anything above 20mph) go into a highish gear for the speed and plant the throttle. The rev should change in line with the speedo. If it increases out of line with the speedo then it's slipping.

winter tires are a whole different thing, they are like snow chains and have a great grip

I think the low speed resistor within your radiator fan has burnt out. Test by unplugging the fan from car and measuring between the connector pins with red wires. You should be able to measure a small resistance between these pins, I think you will see no connection. Replace fan, or repair with an external resistor, but at your odometer reading, it may be best to replace. I think there may be more wrong than just this, but it should help both temperature and voltage stability if you fix this.

I experienced two false tyre warning light episodes in the 5 years I owned my Yeti and I have had two on my present car a now 5 year old Audi A3. These things just happen. As regards warning warning lights in general, these frequently occur when battery voltage is low or the battery has been replaced. Once a new/fully charged battery is in place then the dash and warning lights usually sort themselves out after a mile or so of driving. Colin

@StEdmund My knowledge is from training as a mechanic then as a car sprayer and buying and selling cars and working in VW Group Dealerships doing Warranty assessments on bodies and paint. Knowing the fitters, techs and master techs that know their jobs and those that should be punted long ago. The issue is VW Group and Skoda UK in the UK. BS to customers, always driver error. They will deny faults until they can deny them no more.Then the next person goes through the same crap. I meet the Motoring Journalists, and there are only a few that tell it as it is. For Skoda & VW,s that is mainly Tim Rodie who gets long termers, or Bob Flavin and a few others. As for What Car / Autocar, Autoexpress, they are deaf dumb and blind selectively with VW Group. An issue 4 years back. As far as Skoda was concerned, just a characteristic. When things are good these guys tell you. and when wrong they will.

Corn bunting

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305688981655

At this moment, my car is at the official workshop. They are trying to solve the problem 🤦🏻‍♂️

Winter tyres are softer rubber and also the blocks move more. They'll wear out fast in summer and handling won't be a precise due to block movement.

They never install unused wiring, they must have done the maths and found it to be more cost effective to have X amount of different harnesses with varying options 🙂

it does reduce the noise a bit i think winter tyres r noisy because the traction more traction more noise i think we got alot of people in scotland here

That sounds like a Tdi but I'm guessing it isn't.

Errrrr, c’mon. Do you really think you’d need to have two tools to do the same job? Try again; it definitely works on the locking wheel nut cover.

From the owners manual, non-Kessy Kessy

This is the part number I have 1S0075101 . It is for 2012-2016 VW Up! models. https://www.deutsche-parts.co.uk/mud-flap-1s0075101-new-genuine-part.html For VW Up! 2016+ models have bumper part 1S6807421AB and mud flaps 1S0075101A 2012-2016 models have bumper part number 1S6807421P and mud flaps 1S0075101 The 2012-2016 model bumpers do not have any attachment points for the mudflaps. That's why there are some plastic parts which should be clipped first. It is perhaps easy to install other than those plastic clips being so flimsy with so hard metal clips. Not a good combination. So VW fixed a bunch of problems after 2016 I should make a mental note to not buy a new VW vehicle before they make at least one facelift update to that model

Yes I agree. I noticed something else tonight. While I was set the air vents to the footwell air flaps I was getting air also from the left and right side vents although on the infotainment screen menu the graphic representation of the airflow showed that the air is going only to footwell vents!! So it must be the air flap mixing problem here for sure.

All good points - however, I just moved from a 12 year old diesel VW to a three year old petrol Scala and the decibel drop is such that it feels like I am driving an empty church building!!! 🤣

Decades before the current popularity of non-alcoholic beverages (beer, wine) there was an Australian non-alcoholic wine called Claytons with the advertising line "The drink you have when you are not having a drink". It meant the name became an Australian reference to something that is not quite what it appears, or an inferior product. I have often set myself what I would call my 'Clayton' (none binding) sporting objectives. I'd do the training preparation but was not really worried if I didn't compete in the 'target' event (bike, run, or triathlon). However late last year I set myself a realistic 'Clayton' objective of running 10 km on or close to my 70th birthday in January this year. It seemed a fairly achievable target until real life (and medical issues) got in the way of any running, much less regular training. In the past, not competing in an event did not bother me, but at least I was capable if I had really wanted to, this time, however, it actually looked like this was one target I would not be capable of doing and it might slip away. Well today, a bit later than anticipated and a quite a bit slower, I eventually achieved my target distance. Feeling pretty chuffed about it really.

Same type, G11. I change it every 2 years.

In country yes, as i said i have done it in the past but in City it's very difficult. All the videos from this work are in a garage-country home-repair shop. Nah, i am going to the G14 that will show up in the future, always one step ahead.