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Colourful end to the day (last night)......

Took a stroll round Cam Ideal (Snowdonia) this morning before driving to near Glasgow. This was the view at 8am...

...check your windscreen. I upgraded from a 110 S to an L&K back in January. I wanted lower mileage and a few extras. I knew in advance about potential leaking roof issues but was up for a challenge and the model I bought was absolutely mint condition with only 35k on the clock. Anyway my arrogance taught me a lesson pretty quickly, not long after buying it, when parked flat or facing downhill water would build in the footwells, it would come under the plastic by the door openings and on to the carpet, classic symptom of a leaking roof (as the drainage runs down the A-pillars). When parking facing up hill the light cluster above the rear view mirror would fill with water, I would then find the cubby under the radio in front of the gear stick full of water after it rained. I then spent the last few months trying everything. It went to my local garage to be checked, they couldn't find the source of the leak. It went to Skoda, they said the pano roof frame was probably warped (which seems to be something they say a lot) and wanted £1200 to try to repair it which I refused as couldn't afford it. I dropped the roof lining and cleaned the drainage tubes, I followed the popular YouTube guide which involved treating the seals and running small amounts of Captain Tolleys down the frame. I hired a smoke machine to try and find where it was coming from with no luck. No matter what I did, if water got on the roof it ended up coming in. If I washed it or it rained I'd end up with wet carpets that took forever to dry. I was feeling pretty fed up and then by total chance I noticed something. I was cleaning the inside of the windscreen and noticed that when putting pressure near the top there was flex...surely it couldn't be? So I spent £180 for a company to come and try and remove and reseal the windscreen, they confirmed straight away that the bonding had gone. Unfortunately upon removal the screen cracked and I had to cough up £450 for a replacement. When it was off (I wish I'd taken photos) I could see right away that this might be the issue. You can actually see straight into the roof lining and into the A-pillars when the screen is removed. They told me that it's a common problem on pano roof Skoda's Audi's and VW's because the glass fitted from the factory has the black surface around the edge embedded in the middle layer of the glass. Whereas on other makes it's on the outside layer. This means that there is no key for the adhesive to grab onto, because there's more flex in the frame of a pano car, the windscreen slowly unseals itself. So the windscreen they put in (which still had the heating elements) was an aftermarket with the black surface on the outside which they keyed before bonding. I'm pleased to say that my L&K is now totally watertight. I can throw buckets of water on it and I've had it in a jet wash and it's totally dry. What had been happening is that water had been accumulating along the top seal of the windscreen, building up behind and then running straight down the A-pillars. Or if the car was parked facing up hill then it just immediately went into the roof lining and through the light cluster. Anyway, that's my story and it's worth checking if you're having this issue. A leaking windscreen has the exact same symptoms as a leaking roof, it comes in the exact same places...so definitely check it. Might save you a lot of grief.

So using some rough and ready maths based on 53,000 applications for financial support and 90,000 non compliant vehicles removed per day and @wyx087's £50,000 cost to change the ULEZ expansion has cost Londoners anything from £2.65trillion to £4.5trillion... OUCH!

A few from last night - lovely to see the changing colours as the sun set....

Alas no photos 'cos I was driving, but was spoiled today... Firstly, was overtaken by an Alpine A110 in that gorgeous metallic blue; then a beauty from the past in the form of a V12 Jaguar XJS Convertible. But the best was a very well restored/preserved Mk1 Golf GTI

All right. I just tested and it works. -First I deleted all files on the 8GB SD-card. -Then copied everything exept all of the "Russia" files onto the empty SD-card. -This was the situation I had this morning, when it failes to start the navigation. -Then I edited the DBInfo.txt and saved it on the card. -> DBInfo.txt delivered with P106_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT (8V0060866S) PartNumber1="V03959803RQ" PartNumber="V03959803RQ" ApplicationSoftwareVersionNumber="0106" SystemName=" ECE 2023 " to -> DBInfo.txt edited by myself to fit my Skoda PartNumber1="8V0060866M " PartNumber2="5G0919866BD" PartNumber3="V03959807NT" PartNumber4="5F0060884CJ" PartNumber="8V0060866M " ApplicationSoftwareVersionNumber="0106" SystemName=" ECE 2023 " -Saved the new DBInfo.txt put it in the car and it was perfect. This is the solution which works well for my Skoda with Amundsen MIB1 Firmware 0490 and VW Navigation AT card. It is obvious that the part number mentioned in the file name (8V0060866S) should be the part number edited in the DBInfo.txt....perhaps I try to change the "M" on my DBInfo.txt to a "S"..... @Tell Many thanks for your help in general and especially with the Seat forum links and the link to the mibsolution.one map-data !!!!☺️ @ords Thank you for your answers too ! 😉

It was more important SWMBO was happy!! 🤣

The above isn't surprising really as we all know people have been changing their vehicles or avoiding the areas - which is what the ULEZ was designed to for. However, the question on many people's minds, especially those who have had to scrap or change a perfectly good older vehicle will be at what personal cost to them. I note no mention of that impact in any of the statements or links provided...

pACC radar and FL BCM 5Q0937084EC installed finally

New diode fitted, light working normally. Hurrah!

Just flown over - the paraglider appeared to be pretty close 🤔

Hi! Before cleaning the intake valves, I was getting misfire in multiple cylinders. After the cleaning, it's only showing misfire in cylinder number 3. Code: P0303 I registered on this forum because it's the only one where I found cases with the same issue as mine. This problem started in February and to this day I haven't found a solution. I will keep you informed of any updates. Thank you all very much.

@Gaz Different software for the DQ200 DSG with your 1.8 TSI 192 ps GTI with supposedly 250 Nm but the Manual has 320 Nm. VW Kidology. Your car seemingly heavier but actually quicker than the lighter more powerful manual. The 1.6TDI has the same sort of issue as the 1.4 TSI Twincharger 180 ps had with the DQ200 DSG.

I remember it was a few eastern Europe countries. I don't know what you mean by files on the card or just the map part

Did the car ever get the Software Update which was the Recall Action on some / many from 2013-2015 DQ200,s which started in 2017. Service Campaign / Recall Action '34H5' there should be a sticker in the spare tyre well. The repair work might not have been required if the issue was the MCU / Accumulator / pressure/ leak. P283C Shift Fork 'C' position

If you look at the Seat post I linked to you can see what they did. There are a number of posts where it's discussed. The cleanest approach is to just buy the 16gb MIB2 map card. The CID is recognized. Also when swapping cards you have to force a reboot into it. The long hold on on/off else it won't re read the data on the card. If you sit outside with your laptop and the unit doesn't power down. Needs 20 minutes, it won't re-read the card. So yes keep the existing card with the old maps on and copy the 106 image to a mib2 card. Any old cheap one will do off ebay. You just need the space of 16gb and the VAG CID on it.

Okey thanks mate, Yea i am working on her, slowley, i dont have a lot of tools where i live now so i need to go back home to dig deeper.

Ill check thanks, Yea it is an aftermarket stereo actually, really wanted BT so had to change. I will look into it thanks!

Could be 490 that is being talked about here.... you really need somebody who has done that map update on a Skoda unless it's only been done on Seats. @varooom just in case.

I fitted front and rear dashcams to my Karoq recently. Didn't need to remove the trim as I just pushed the cable into the roof lining at the rear. You probably need to pull the liner out of the rear door seal a little to get access. Should be simple enough though.

Yes of course, I am from Serbia, all of us had Tigar when it was 15-20% of price of Continental or Michelin in same dimension, but now this is not the case anymore at all.

The latest update: a display replacement was arranged at the service a few days ago, and in the meantime, the car infotainment was working great, without any problems, until today when it started to screech again while the car was turned off and parked. I recommend, as a first aid measure, to adjust the climate control to your liking and remove fuse number 30 from the fuse box under the steering wheel. And yes, the car was parked at sunny side of the parking, and temperature outside is about 30C.

I bought an Octavia Estate new in the summer of 2016. 1.4 TSI, automatic DSG. We put 4-5k miles per year on it, so just around 36k currently. I've always done annual service in line with my MOT and never had an issue. Potentially overkill, but I grew up with the mindset of 10k or 1 year whatever comes first. All fine (if maybe more costly than needed). And the service center is far enough away that splitting the MOT and service timing would create a bit of a headache. Last year they sold me on a Skoda Service plan with language "Your next 2 scheduled services are covered within this agreement." I booked in my annual MOT + service as normal this year. No issues. Then I drop the car off and get a call a few hours later from the (Skoda) service center saying that the tried to process the service plan and that It's saying my attempted service is 3 months early and I should check back in November. I bought the plan in early August of last year. My mileage has been sub 5k. I'm confused about where November would come from and the guy on the phone was useless. So, smart minds that are here, any ideas? Either it could be it's on variable and it should be 2 years 20k and they won't cover it until at least month 15 if the milage ins't there - but really, I'm okay until next summer? Or something else could be going on? Help much appreciated!

Thanks - it's currently with them for MOT, since they wouldn't do the service, so all the maintenance records are there. I'll get a copy of those and compare against the above helpful list. Thanks so much!

If it's space you can buy a 16GB Mib2 VAG card and it will work if that's the problem. In Seat they have done both hacked the map down and some bought a replacement mib2 map card as I'd suggested since we knew they were compatible. However on Seat it seems you do need the Seat firmware update 0480. Also because of mapcare on Seats you do need to do a bit of editing to carry across your old map identity to frig it to work. It goes like this: >> I downloaded the P106_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT (8V0060866S).7z from https://mibsolution.one/#/1. Extracted it to my HDD. I then removed a few files in the markets/eu/map/MapRegions folder. Ukraine and turkey stuff if I remember correctly, this made the files fit on the original card. Modified the DbInfo.txt by copying the original one from my map car and changing the last 2 lines to ApplicationSoftwareVersionNumber="0106" SystemName=" ECE 2023 " from the new map file. I then copied the contents of the original card to my HDD. << Resource of Seat and Mib1 and Mib2 https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/resources/updating-the-inbuilt-mib2-satnav-mib2-tricks-and-mib1.60/ It could be for Skoda mib1 there is some similar Skoda 0480 firmware that makes it work. Retrofitters have described the Seat one as "European" which might be code for it's been modded. Seat European boards were using P106_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT with the text edit and 480 Seat firmware. Those that didn't want to buy a new Mib2 card for mib1 use just did the contents hack + edit 480. Do't reckon it works without the 480. Haven't come across any that have it working without the firmware update. It's a bit like witchcraft since few people back in 2016 or so with mib1 standard managed to do Seat map card updates as DIY. They ended up out of pocket. All had gone quite till that 106 release came along and across Seat boards it was found it was possible. It could be that Skoda just needs that text edit and not a firmware change. It is an Audi map update so that firmware plus the edits could be the special sauce. The mib enthusiasts may know. This post brought the Seat Mib1 updates back to life in the UK although earlier in the year a retrofitter for offering to it for a cost https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/updating-the-inbuilt-mib2-satnav-mib2-tricks-and-mib1.388586/page-138#post-5050968 The board link to European Seat success is given in that. It's been replicated.

Are you sure you can't display this on the MAXI DOT display (between the two large dials, speedo and rev counter)? Have a look in your Owner's Manual of how to do this if it's available.

(the garage did end up replacing some pipes on my adblue system on the Superb and it was a *pain* with something like 5 hours of work and very expensive parts. Motortalk has this pic from a Q5. but this ebay auction is the tank from a Tiguan and shows it from all sides. https://www.ebay.de/itm/156083404019 This has better pics: https://www.ebay.de/itm/135045217385 Can't see a drain plug, though.

erWin should be able to help on this - log in and go get the service manuals after you have identified your car. 1h for €8 or so and you should be able to download everything in minutes. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Astonishing opinion. Octavia does not have multilink suspension in the rear, which makes it very harsh and noisy. That seems like a serious downgrade, also including how the whole interior is built (including materials). But good luck with it! 😅

Problem 1 - The fan switch sits in the radiator, if there's no flow to the radiator, it won't turn on. Check if the tube going to the radiator warms up when it sits on idle. But ito Sunds like the thermostat is not working properly (it can happen even with new thermostat). To rule this out, you can remove the thermostat valve. Do you mean high/low beam switch? That might be faulty switch in the lever itself. Yes, it might be a symptom of misaligned geometry, get it checked. There's a circuit that simulates function of a newer car - the radio stays on as long as the key is in the ignition. https://www.sp-el.cz/Felicia-S-kontakt-d1149.htm#detail-anchor-description Reverse is meshing a gear between other two gears - if they are rotated in "right" position, it won't fit, especially if the gear is a bit worn from skipping teeth by shifting reverse in movement. What helps is to briefly release the clutch in neutral to spin the gearbox. It's an old car with cable operated throttle, so sudden release rapidly reverses torque going from the engine (newer cars have electronic throttle valve, which is slower in those situations exactly for this reason). The engine is mounted in rubber bushings, which shift from one end position to other and then flex a bit, which is the jumping you describe. Worn out mounts can make this effect worse.

You might be getting a front/rear and the top/bottom buttons operating at the same time, so pushing the switch at 2, 4, 8 or 10 o’clock; that would cause the effect you describe.

@cwt Which engine has your Scala. You have full control of the DSG when Coasting is functioning if you are awake, sober and doing the driving. Touch the accelerator or brake pedal or drop a gear manually and drive is engaged, or just do not enable Coasting if you do not trust the engineers that designed the system and had vehicles type approved. . It is a Manual put into neutral that was frowned upon in advanced circles, or an Automatic going to neutral and needing put back to drive. Are we to assume that no Advanced Drivers, or Police Advanced Drivers or other Emergency vehicle drivers just 'Inhibit' Coasting?

@Ordish Welcome. It was not a DVLA Safety Recall on vehicles as in the Pinned Thread. It was a Recall Action, a Service Campaign, what i call a Skoda Secret Service Campaign. Need to know and the last person to know is car owners, ones who are not getting dealer services might never hear. Even the VIN checker as it was did not show the Service Campaign action due. The joke was VW / Skoda saying it was the wrong coolant. That was the wrong coolant as they factory filled. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

You have an amzing talent for taking threads "off piste" (in this case taking a discussion about electric aircraft and posting about electric buses) and then when people respond to your "off piste" post (as I did in the quoted post) making it seem like the other person was the one who took it "off piste"? In the last few days ALL my posts in this thread have been related to electric aircraft despite your attempty to confuse the discussion with electric buses and HGVs.

Do you have to hold the key near the start button for the car to start? If yes, then you haven't paired the key - it will always start if the key is held in the correct place, even without a battery in the key. I suspect the pairing hasn't worked properly - I don't know the procedure because I've never had to do it but it is often the case that this type of thing takes several attempts. Normally, you just change the battery and the key works.

All I'll say is that 38k is too few miles, DO NOT pay a premium for low mileage, history and condition are FAR more important!

I know the guy who's bought this, so i've directed him to the forum.

Don’t understand; you can’t feel where the lumbar support moves to, when pressing the quad button? The front and rear buttons change the amount of support the lumbar provides. The top and bottom buttons moves the position of the lumbar support up and down the back of the seat.

Waterless products were developed in places like California where there are hosepipe bans often. It’s a solution looking for a problem and also a bit of a compromise. They work by having increased levels of surfactants and lubricants to lift dirt away from the paint so you can wipe it away but essentially you are still risking rubbing dirt against the clear coat and scratching it. Save your money on that in this country. There are specific products which help dissolve but generally getting it wet is a good start. But tbh it’s a biological matter, most things involving an alcohol (panel wipe), organic carbon solvent (tar remover) will do the job as will wheel cleaners which are safe for clear coated wheels [and therefore clear coated paint). Spray on, let dwell, rinse off. As always with paint, avoid as much mechanical removal as possible. No “some say” about it, the acids in the poo can eat into clear coat over time but what is a more common issue is when there is direct sunlight and the paint gets hot, the bonds of the outer molecules of the clear coat break and the poo is allowed to be absorbed.

We were lucky enough to spot what we think were a couple of Eurasian Jays earlier (along with a Woodpecker) earlier...............

Mine will be 7 years old by the end of 2024 and I´m thinking about to replace it. But prices for brand new car have become crazy (in France)… I’ve specced Superb Estate Mk4 L&K, Arteon Estate, VW Passat Estate, ID7 Tourer (just to have an idea) but all come between €64000 to &71000 😳 OMG ! It’s getting crazy! I think I may look a 2021-2022 second hand car…

Hi folks, Here’s our new family fun bus. It’s a 2019 L&K 272 TSi. I haven’t really had a chance to tinker with it yet but initial impressions are all good. It needs to go into the bodyshop for a spot if rust under the tailgate glass, I don’t know if that’s a common issue? But we have a holiday in France to contend with first so I’m looking forward to doing some miles and getting to know the car.

I have a PHEV which I run on electric locally. I get around 33 miles per charge. If I go a longer distance it switches to petrol automatically. For France I would use petrol to get to your house. It will probably be easiest to use petrol for local French runs as you cannot charge at the house and you may not want to wait at a charging station. I understand that the charging plugs are standard (except Tesla) so you should have no problem plugging in in France.

My issue occurred on 15th...still waiting to hear re a timeframe on the replacement part...I did contact Skoda Ireland directly to complain etc...they have actually been quite helpful actually...I feel thus might hurry things on a bit

I just had to do mine and it worked all fine thank you ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️

That to me indicates either a damaged wire or unplugged connector. or the camera has completely failed. first thing I’d be doing is checking the connectors are all in: back of the camera in front grill left side chassis leg connector left side lower a pillar in car control unit under right seat if all of these are okay then next would be continuity tests for the wiring, which need very small pins and go as follows pin 1 to pin 4 pin 4 to pin 1 pin 2 to pin 3 pin 3 to pin 2 and these are pin outs at the camera connector and at the control unit connector.

Bought the part in the link you sent mate, fitted in 10 mins, 20 mins to feed the pull cord through - works a treat! Cheers for the help! 👍 Part on the right - OEM £48 Part on the left - after market - £12 Identical parts! 🤷‍♂️

There is a 2023 mib1 map on mibsolution.one which Seat drivers have been able to use with a part number shuffle. Seat never got mapcare or rather had to fork out for map updates unless you use workarounds. Not sure of the Skoda position on mapcare in mib1, it got dropped in mib2. Lucky souls whilst Audi users are in the same boat. The workaround in mib1 appears to be edit DBInfo file with notepad. PartNumber1="your old part number" PartNumber="your old part number" Edit the the new map file two parameters too: PartNumber1="your old part number" PartNumber="your old part number" Obviously your your old part number is your old part number. Use the notepad editor if Windows. You might not need the part number on Skoda... pass on that, but if you do it appears to be just carrying forward you old PartNumber1="your old part number" PartNumber="your old part number" The unit being tethered on what was originally in place. The file is P106_N60S3MIBS2_EU_NT (8V0060866S): https://mibsolution.one/#/1/15/MSTD guest, guest Always take a copy of the map file before deleting the contents !.