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some carpark and night time shots.....

Gearbox is fine - Water pump isn't! VW site needed VIN to access manual but SEAT manual was much more explicit and had full instructions for towing an Auto. Basically ensure it's in neutral, no going more than 50Km and not exceeding 30 MPH. SO looks like I'm OK.

Simple answer, you can't. The electrons go where they want to not where any money tells them to! Any organisation that says they use only electricity from renewable sources is lying if they get their electricity from a connection to the National Grid. What they should claim is that they pay only for electricity from renewable sources to be placed onto the National Grid - but that's NOT the same as using only electricity from renewable sources!

"spin" is just a synonym for "bull****" 🤪

For f***s sakes man... (Nah I'm not cleaning that dash until the good weather is back...)

I know you do not like the Zoe seats, be interested to see what you think of the Scenic if you get a chance, but would not be having such issues in a Renault ie 22 Kw AC charging (hope my Scenic is getting 22 kWs like the Zoe) plus the 275 miles summer range of the Zoe/Scenic 60 kWh you would have halved your need to charge and time to charge, just saying. Renault very emboldened, cocky really, saying, quoting Autoexpress, better range and value than a Y. Of course new TESLA Juniper model Y is out next year and quite likely to take Car of the Year next year 2025, as the Scenic did this year (2024) ............

@OotohereSuck it up, you chose to go down the EV route 😉

Pay your share of the pollution and emissions. We have all been at it. And pay for roads and infrastructure because those that never travel far or even have as vehicle pay for motorways. But then they do buy stuff transported by road. But they pay for that. Then we all pay for trains even when we do not use them. It's just life and the economy. Someone needs to make people rich. We are all born naked and without pockets.

oh knowing the Government it will be some sort of high tech solution involving extanded range RFID tags(or other transponder type thing) that require a network of readers fitted to roadside furniture that will be outsourced to the likes of Capita or Fujitsu , will be late being delivered and massively over budget

As the DSG is actually an automated manual gearbox - not a TC automatic, I don't see any reason why it cannot be towed, provided neutral gear can be selected.

sounds like bull**** to me. If the national grid is only 40% renewable then 60% of what physically comes in to your property is non renewable regardless of what certificates your supplier has.

I've often wondered how you can tell exactly where the wiggly amps coming in to your home originated as everything goes into a great big mixing pot. I mean think about it, electricity from producers like wind farms, solar farms and coal plants all go into the central transmission network before being split out more locally by the DNOs. Sure, your supplier may say they only supply "green" electricity but unless they are running their own transmission network and have full control of all the cables going to your property there's no way they can really guarantee the source of the electric they are reselling.

Far from it. I have a company Fuel card for petrol but not for EV charging (there is a problem here with all EVs except TESLAs) but I use the EV where I can as that use renewable, or nuclear base load, electricity which will be UK or Danish or French or Norwegian generated probably rather than using the climate damaging petrol derived from oil that has probably come from the Middle East. Same as I do with my pension investments ie choosing ethical investments rather than no ethical ones. It's a life choice and made to give my children, grandchildren a better chance to live in a world where they are not paying for my choices whether that is EV or investments.

Apparently tonight's Moon is 97.5% full (Waxing) and is 367,816.3 kilometers from Earth 🌛 The colour may relate to atmospheric pollution - stunning colour nonetheless!

Went for a drive, saw a Stork, took a few pics.

Well, just got home in Staffordshire after 12 days holiday in France. I never saw another 280 in 1500 miles apart from as we arrived at the duty free car park in Calais we literally both pulled up to passport control at the same time. I simply had to pull up alongside. My wife got a little thumbs up while I was stocking up on duty free.

Sounds like the same issue I had Mechatronics Failure

Thereby hangs the problem, we often go out as a family and the wife as well, and I do have to put my seat all the way back as does the son who sits in front passenger seat. If it was just myself, then there are quite few cars that would allow me to sit comfortably behind the steering wheel until you come up my second problem, I also have extra, extra wide size 15 feet that do not fit into most cars footwell,, even with auto's there is often not enough space for my left foot to sit to the left of the brake pedal.

Poorly glued craft by my kid, set down on the dashboard!

You make it sound like there was a factory option to select active TPMS, which there wasn’t, at least where I live. Edit: Interesting, so it indeed was an option for you guys. Unexpected to differentiate in having this as an option or not by country. (HU here) Thanks anyways!

As far as I know, the only number that needs matching is the 6Q1937049D. I doubt any of the others tell much/anything about the soft coding.

Wow! That's a lot of €€€ ☹️ @Robert323 Welcome to Briskoda forums - but it's better to post in English as the majority of users here use that language - and it's in the rules...(https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines/)

Since it's clearly a service you can execute remotely - it must be cellurar. GSM is dying, so my best bet is LTE.

Ah I see what you mean, not sure tbh i’m sure having kali Linux on a laptop and an LTE receiver you’ll see something but not sure

Recently bought from dealer within the last month then throw it back at them, dont go gutting the DPF.

You have confirmed my hypothesis, it happens shortly after the warm up period, that is when the deployed sleeve should retract under the action of the return spring, if it doesn't it overheats before finally coming unstuck, pumping water as it should and the temperature returning to normal. Why would it stick, because they do, the more complicated things become the more potential failure modes, the price you pay to have warm feet quicker on a winter morning. Nothing unusual about a new part failing, aftermarket parts are at best only as good as new, most of the time lesser quality made to a price and they dont have to offer the same guarantee as the manufacturer or worry about their reputation, if you look at the distribution on a MTBF (mean time between failure) graph you will see a very prominent peak in the first few months. You can change the water pump or remove the wiring connector to the actuator, then it will never deploy and stick, downside is slightly longer warm up time. Remove the connector after having done a run where the engine did not overheat, do not remove it with the engine running during warm up. The above is on my assumption that your engine has the sliding sleeve water pump, you can check by looking for the connector.

Hi Windybum, I'm using a honing stone (for sharpening wood chisels). It goes across both ports making sure I don't start rounding off corners and it is slow and gentle so I can keep checking and not go too far. Ebay has some claimed OEM ones for about £50 more but I'm not too sure how 'fresh' the stock is ?

Sorry, yes, it's actually the seal between the thermostat housing and the block of a pump which is belt driven of the end of a camshaft.

A lowline camera at address 20 cannot support TSR or lane assist. I would suggest checking your coding log to ensure you've reverted all the changes correctly. If you still have issues, update your VCDS to the latest edition: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Then post a full autoscan, the coding log and adaption maps from 09, 20 and 5F

Well clearly they have to do something and do it pretty quickly, especially if they intend to revert the deadline to 2030 for all new cars, which will leave a massive black hole in the coffers. The perks that EV drivers currently enjoy cannot be continued much longer because of the massive inequality between EV and ICE drivers, both types of car still use the same roads and we all every single one of us still expect the same level of public services so it is grossly unfair to ICE drivers to keep on stumping up the ante to pay for it all, as we already pay the lions share of the costs and it is creating a 2 tier system, of have and have-nots.

Amended it for you

Who pays £500 RFL? Currently after the first year it's £190 (or £600 for years 2 to 6 if the list price is over £40,000) for cars registered after 1 April 2017.

I'm wondering if anybody's fitted one of these https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body-kits/skoda/Skoda Superb/skoda-superb-mk3/spoiler-cap-skoda-superb-iii-estate Or know of any other similar spoiler extensions that fit the sportline

The £600 RFL will cover 1,132litres

Thank you Warrior193. The seal looks pretty bad where it's been in contact with the corrosion on the block. I will definitely have to clean up the corrosion and replace the seals as a minimum.

Thanks for your swift reply Warrior. That was my thinking, it's just that the manual states "Vehicles with manual transmission can be towed in with a tow bar or a tow rope or with the front or rear wheels raised" but makes zero mention of auto versions. Ootohere - I can find even less info about towing an ASG vehicle but as I need to get car to location just 5 miles distant I'll probably get away with it. It will be towed flat using tow rope in neutral and fairly slowly.

I used (copied) the same adaption values from my existing DRL lighting channels - Leuchte2SL VLB10 - LED daytime running light module signal (left). So it dims and brightness with the headlight DRLs. i can also control the dimming and brightness values through the coding. in theory its feasible on any Skoda models - the trick is to find a "not active" lightning channel which also has a corresponding physical pin on the BCM module, that is not occupied. u can read about the discussion/discovery process i had on that here. then its just a matter of running the wiring from the BCM module through the firewall and into the engine bay, down to the front bumper.

all in (with part imported from PL) £1700. Still a lot, but roughly half the price with the UK sourced part...

https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/crkm2vpy7g6o

Thanks for explaining, now I can see what your options are in the UK. My apologies if I've digressed on the topic, it just interests me to learn of the variations in different markets. I've had third party extended warranties on other cars in the past, as you say, they're more like insurance polices. Certainly not comparable with manufacturer's warranties. In AU Skoda's current factory warranty is 7 years / unlimited km, which is extremely competitive and obviously designed to help accelerate their brand penetration here. They're also up against a few other 7 year warranties, such as Kia. VW is far more established, still with 5 years / unlimited, it's one of the reasons I bought an Octavia instead of a Golf.

^^^^ What Ootohere says ^^^^ Unless you have a special light, it's not a 'check oil level' warning. It's a 'Your oil pressure is dangerously low' warning! And driving with dangerously low oil pressure can have catastrophic and expensive consequences - like new engine time consequences. Waiting for the light to come on is a bad idea. Gaz

Hit the first notable milestone in my (new-ish) to me Octy the other day.

I finally got around to getting some pics of the car with the camera rather than the phone whilst on holiday last week.....

Hi all, so last weekend got the car back, here's some random pics: I think they technically missed a spot on the B-Pillar, where there's a bit of primer that wasn't covered with white, but it's nice and lacquered, so not going to worry. The rest is not too bad, and the use of the stone chip for the sill underside hopefully helps. The benefit of having relatives in this industry is that from their overall quote of £2800, I was asked for less, and paid £1200 for the job. Given the amount of effort, I'm very happy with the result. Most of the rust they encountered and ground down appears to have been surface rust somehow rather than my fear of coming from the inside out. I'll give the car 3-4 years before I go further with it, and hopefully by then there'll be more power and whatnot assuming all's well. Assuming none of this comes back again... Only niggles were that the doors were off which triggered the airbag light, but nothing the VCDS couldn't clear (missing sensors, which makes sense as the doors were missing). The other niggle was that the car was left standing for long periods of time, which took its final toll on the battery. Despite leaving it overnight on a trickle charger, a trip to the petrol station to fill up left me stranded and standing like a lemon when my backup jump starter couldn't give it enough juice to tick over. I was at the mercy of a kind white van man who drove over and lobbed over his jump leads. Was super lucky he was around and it was early enough in the morning to have not caused a massive queue at the forecourt. That poor original Moll battery was ditched, and amusingly, lying around in the garage was a 096 battery. Specifically a Yuasa YBX5096, so technically not compatible with this car due to not really being suited to start-stop. However, that's been on the trickle charger for years, and it starts up the car without issue, so will suffice whilst I recover from the bodyshop bill and swap it with a proper one. Wife doesn't like the start-stop so disabling it is usually the first thing she does, so the battery will tide me over for a while. Would make sense that a YBX9096 is the target. I think that's that for a while though. Maybe I'll take pics of a battery change if really required, but other than planning for the future and maybe some tiny bits, the car's ready to be used! Maintenance: £3540.22 (+£1200.00) Upgrades: £1595.25 Miscellaneous: £820.07

TBH based on the handful of his videos I've seen this guy appears to be a tin foil wearing nutter and many of the comments appear to feed that paranoia. DOnt get me wrong , there may be a grain of truth in his videos/comments but watching them is like listening to fingernails being dragged across a blackboard.

ANPR/surveillance

Yup, same thing still going on with my Octavia 2 years down the line. No dealer seems able to fix this and Skoda don’t appear to acknowledge that the fault is as widespread as it obviously is from all the similar complaints in the forum. Just wonder if anyone who’s bought the recent (2024) updated Octavia has experienced the problem, or has Skoda finally found a fix but are keeping quiet about it from a sense of acute embarrassment. My 2020 mk4 threw a complete infotainment hissy fit on holiday in June. Driving along when the radio started up spontaneously and rapidly climbed to max volume. Couldn’t switch it off, and as fast as I scrolled back the volume, it started climbing back up again. At the same time the multimedia screen was switching itself on and off, randomly displaying the nav map, the clock (different variations) or the radio page as it saw fit. The whole system just couldn’t be turned off for more than a few seconds before switching itself back on again. Skoda Assist sent the AA to help. They were able to get the system to stabilise, with just the clock showing, but the car had to go to the local dealer. I got charged over £100 for a complete reboot and update (1941) which appeared to resolve the problem for a while. On the way home, I found that once or twice the radio would start up un-commanded when I started the car but could at least be switched off. Otherwise no problems…… until this week during the hot weather when the radio started coming on again ( thankfully not at max volume) when the car was locked and sitting in the drive. Aaaaaagh!!!. I’m convinced that a design fault and high temperatures have rather more to do with this problem than software, as update ‘fixes’ rarely seem to produce a permanent cure. The only ‘cure’ which seems to have worked for me is to put a reflective screen shield in the windscreen whenever I leave the car, and to put a folded-in-half large soft detailing/cleaning sheet (Supagard) over the whole infotainment screen to absorb the heat. When practical, I also crack open all four windows to try to keep the interior heat down. So far, by doing this, especially in this last week of UK hot weather, I’ve not had a single instance the radio starting. Not the greatest of fixes, but at least the neighbours are happy and I can sleep at night! I do hope Skoda come up soon with something permanent to fix the infotainment problem. It really does ruin what is otherwise an excellent car. Good luck with your own ‘fix’!

Just to confirm, I also did this without taking off anything it was a 2 minute job with a 27mm socket 3 inch extension. Wound the old one out slow with a cold engine, primed the new one in 5w30. Popped it in, tightened hard, didn’t bother with a torque. Started up and rattle sorted for now. £40. I checked my old one and it was sort of notchy piston movement and lacked resistance. Thanks. Might help someone else. Of course there is some risk but I felt lucky.

21 months and 98000km later. 😅

Illuminated handles on the outside are now also available. Can now also be found in the dark. 🤩