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He he... Snap!!

Turns out insects are much more difficult to photograph than Birds😬

@Ootohere and with many buses across the UK running at less than 15% capacity each time, that's a load of pollution being produced for nothing, whereas if those buses were running much nearer to 100% each time, then they would be more environmentally friendly. Strangely enough that is almost as they were when I worked on them, often running well at 200 to 300% at peak times, which took loads of cars of the roads, and roads lasted far longer and potholes were almost unheard of and then capitalism took over and worked against the best interests of the country.

Yes this was my previous Octavia, resolved eventually by a new set of plugs. By the time a code was thrown up via an diagnostic, it was running very rough.

If you have the original battery it will be around 5 years old, and as the car has only averaged less than 5000 miles per year it's quite possible that the battery is not in prime health and able to hold charge as well as it should - this could be a factor in the inconsistent start/stop performance. Might be worth getting a proper battery condition check done, not just a voltage check!

Any video of the tensioner without the cover on and the engine running? Wanna see if its jumping about

If you post the VIN or reg I can get you the exact part numbers

The Golf SV has one of the highest seats, or if older the Golf Plus. My wife likes a high seat and has a Ford Cmax.

They just drive so nicely. & then i loved my Volvo S60.

You can still have it delivered as well.

Welcome. Sorry no idea. What age and miles / km was the used ASG you got? It might just have the same issue as the one you replaced. Buying a used one was maybe not the best of ideas. Is it an Automatic Gearbox specialist that fitted it?

I will do, i’m dropping it off to a local reputable garage rather than the ‘stealers’ as it’s out of warranty.

Stockholm sindrome 🤣

Possibly but I ordered what I thought was the best buy at the time. Previously ordered an Vauxhall Astra but had delay with supply. So popped into Skoda and ordered Octavia after seeing showroom. Delivered to me following month after I sorted model ,,colour etc. Have been very pleased with it and Skoda showroom.

Fill your tank as you wish and empty it and have others breath it as you reach end of life. Never mind the buzzcocks. It is always worse elsewhere for others. Lots of Scotland has no Mains Gas, so it would be bottled gas or tanks filled. Councils removed real fires in lots of Scotland and there are no coal deliveries. So wood burners. All the choice of those that live there if they want to breath what ever. Sadly many do have to suffer the mould though. So maybe children get whatever from birth and out and about as well as at home or school.

I will post here when I hear sound again so we can see how long did it last. And then I will take car to them to do it again. Last time they did it without asking for any money, warranty is still on. It was on August 20th. It is Škoda service, and I still don't see entry in digital service plan over app.

I hope this nearly wraps up this thread and proves useful to somebody. In addition to failing the MOT the car had been hesitating a bit on moving off - especially first thing in the morning. Me being more assertive with the gas pedal seemed to get around this problem - at the risk of damaging the clutch. Also a couple of times a few months previously I had had the check engine light on (MIL) with P0171 system too lean and P0402 EGR flow excessive codes. I changed the MAP (intake manifold pressure and temperature) sensor and the MIL stayed off. My (very cheap) V-Pow hand-held OBD2 scanner showed no DTCs but after the car failed the MOT I checked with VCDS lite and found intermittent P0171 and P0402 faults which had not got bad enough to trigger the MIL (or show in the hand-held scanner). After several attempts I finally managed to run the pre-cat O2 Sensor Ageing Test. I found some sources which described how to do it. But this is how I did it: In VCDS lite with engine running at idle but up to operating temperature open the Engine Controller and go to Measuring Blocks. Select block 034. The four fields shown are: 1) Engine RPM 2) Exhaust/cat.temperature bank 1 or 3 [°C] 3) Dynamic value bank 1 or 3 [ ] 4) Result [Test ON / Test OFF / B1-S1 OK / B1-S1 n.OK] The O2 sensor is also the temperature sensor for this field. Field 2 ought to be somewhere around 200-300 degrees or more. [When I first tried this a few days ago Field 2 showed 72 degrees - which is an impossibly low temperature for a running engine.] Select *Basic Settings* Press and hold the foot brake and bring the revs up to around 3,000 and hold. One source suggests it should be OK to just floor the gas pedal and the engine management will self limit the revs - but I didn't have the courage to try this. Field 4 changes to 'Test ON' and after a few seconds changes to 'B1-S1 OK' (we hope). I found a thread on VWVortex (https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/vag-com-procedures-for-testing-the-maf-o2-sensors-and-catalytic-converter.1265064/) which suggested that Field 3 should be above 0.80 and that a new sensor would read 1.99. However, the thread referred to something other than the BBZ engine. So Field 3 should change to show a number greater than 0.80 or the sensor is considered shot. In my case Field 3 changed to 0.60 so I guess the sensor is beyond its useful life - especially as it suggested the exhaust gasses were at 72 degrees at one point. Directly after running the O2 sensor ageing test you can select block 046 and test the Cat efficiency. You trigger the test in a similar way. Select block 046, press and hold the foot brake and bring the revs up to about 3,000 RPM and hold. It takes maybe 20-30 seconds and I got 99.6% - I don't know what's 'good enough' for this but this feels OK. Immediately after the new sensor was delivered I ran into a completely different problem: the front passenger door window regulator broke, so I took the car off the road and had the door in pieces until I fixed that. When I finally fitted the new sensor and after clearing all DTC fault codes in VCDS lite (which should also reset the learned fuel map), I took the car for a long test run. Trying to get the onboard monitors to get into the 'Ready' state. On re-running the pre-cat O2 Sensor Ageing Test Field 3 changed to 0.84. It's a cheap Ridex sensor but I guess from the number it's better than the old one. Directly after running the O2 sensor ageing test I also re-ran the Cat efficiency test. I got 99.6% again. I ran it for a few days and checked the DTCs again - no intermittents, but then I don't know how often they were being recorded before. It may be my imagination (or the weather) but the car seemed less hesitant. I keep detailed records of the fuel I put in and the mileage I get - I've been averaging just over 40mpg (around 7l/100km) over the last few tankfuls. I hope I'll get a slight improvement. I'll maybe add another brief update in a few weeks after it's used a couple of tankfuls. I'll wait until then before I change the fuel filter.

Fair enough 👍

When the 1.5TSI engine was first introduced there was a lot of complaints about kangarooing when setting off. My Golf I owned at the time with the same engine had a software update to improve the behaviour. I suggest you ask the Skoda dealership to check the software status for the engine and to apply any updates. Also the car should be interrogated for any fault codes in the system. The stop start needs a high charge level in the battery to function and if the car is standing for a while unused it does not surprise me that you have to drive a distance for it to function.

I think you mean 205/55R16 The Falken ZIEX ZE310 EcoRun came first for subjective comfort in this 2023 tyre test, although sixth overall. Fortunately, the test was for the 205/55R16 tyre size, mostly 205/55R16 91V. The 205/55R16 is Europe's most popular car tyre size and therefore it's a cheaper tyre size than most other 16" tyre sizes. For this reason, there isn't a lot of money to be saved by going for one of the non-premium brands. Bear in mind that this tyre test was published quite a while age so won't include all the latest tyres. 2023 tyre test of 13 premium summer touring tyres in size 205/55R16 (published 23/2/2023) https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2023-Tyre-Reviews-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm

OBDEleven is officially licensed by VAG.

The EU has lowered the counterveiling duty on TESLA to 9%, BYD next lowest at 17% but I seem to remember that Geely and SAIC/MG are still up around 38% Ad Valorem plus the normal 10% custon duty as well. Be hard for Gelly and SAIC to sell to the EU so maybe they will target UK and make more Right Hand Drive cars.

That's indeed a better view, it would have definetly helped as I struggled a bit, luckily I didn't break any plastic clips. Cheers!

and also where you live, whether or not you have any driving convictions, whether you are male/female, how old you are so many variables when it comes to insurance that averages are meaningless

It's quite weird driving ours now and it not making the noise! Odd how some Karoqs do it and some don't. Ours was 16mths old when we bought it and had only done 4K, and we've only done another 4K in a year so I wonder if it's lack of use? On one visit the dealer gave us an identical courtesy car with 13K on it and that didn't make the same noise even in places where ours always did it.

check the current fuel consumption on the display, all depends on model. i have many times read, D + Auto Hold must be same as N, but that doesn't refers to my 2.0 TSI 280ps DSG7 DQ351, where i can feel strong load to the engine when standing in D, no matter of Auto Hold state consumption in N is dancing around 1.1 liters/hour, while in D/E around 1.5 l/h as result, for 1 minute + red lights i simply move to N and Auto Hold is always Off, to avoid annoying bongs at move D->N

OK, CITY busses, or maybe LONDON Busses. Lots of drivers just sitting paid on standby ready to take a bus out on route. The thing is that in this decade and this century and around the UK is pretty different from the Capital City of England.

That for me is easy to do, when you see one normal service bus full up and following behind it is two or three other buses showing in the destination blind s window either the words "Duplicate" or "Relief", meaning that there was far too many passengers requiring the normal service bus so the inspectors at the garage decided bring out more buses to take those passengers, rather than leaving them to catch the next service bus in 20 minutes time. Did you have to erect some tents or bring some caravans?

Fuse #3 worked for me (only had to do it once)

Its likely to be closer to the Fabia, the front end donor vehicle of the cut n shut Roomster. Whereas the Yeti is pretty much the same as the Octavia but with a suspension lift and taller profile tyres.

Hi Mark, the last time I sat in a Roomster was more than seven years ago but from memory: Height from floor to seat base is maybe a couple of inches less than in a Yeti. Height from ground to seat base is maybe 4 to 5 inches less than in a Yeti If your wife needs seat height similar to Yeti/Touran, then I doubt Roomster would be suitable. As @Ootohere has suggested, your wife really needs to sit in a Roomster to check its suitability.

You can pull a fuse to hard reset car. Instead of waiting for battery to die. Can't remember which one but it's in another post on this forum

Around Scotland which is Electricity rich there are electric busses in towns, cities and going between them. Hydrogen ones also. The quicker more are rolled out the better. England just needs to be getting in with things.

Best go and her sit in one and drive it. Is it the height from the floor to seat base height that matters, or the ground to sill then once inside the floor to seat base height? Then seat base height from seat to the pedals. @Robjon might know both & how they compare.

Thanks for all responses. I checked that my key could unlock the door after disconnecting negative before closing the bonnet, so all should be fine. Just need to google how to reconnect for when I get back now. 😅😊

Personally, if leasing or buying used or new for doing a few hundred miles a week a few times a week and for work reasons and time critical it would be a Polestar i would drive. The only reason for any of the Tesla,s would be for the Supercharger hubs, but as Tesla non Tesla has expended then a Polestar it would be.

That was my first thought.

Thanks and I saw this one yesterday and reckon it was very honest. Made the very good point that whilst range was relatively good if you tank it ie 80 mph cruising, you could get less than 200 miles put of even the big battery model. Probably as low as 150 out of my 60 kwh version I am getting. Aero drag is a cube relationship it is oft forgotten, tyre energy loss more of a square. Great car in so many ways but if one wants a motorway mile muncher then get a model 3 or ID 7 or similar or wait for new model Y.

The tread is less deep at the outer edge because steering response when cornering would be badly degraded otherwise. I don't see what this has to do with taking advantage of any law.

Usually the parking brake is in the sky before the shoes fail, the wedge adjuster maxes out and you can't get any more.

When I fitted the mk4 Golf steering wheel into the Caddy I did not seriously attempt getting the centre horn push to work. I had got used to using a horn button on the dashboard, and given the (mostly self-inflicted) difficulty I had getting the wheel fitted, I had no reason for expecting that the horn push would be straightforward. Then one day I was in the workshop doing something else when I noticed that the gap between the rear face of the Golf wheel and the sprung horn contact might just be conducive to a simple fix. I had a standard Felicia wheel in the garage, and it took only a couple of minutes to remove the horn contact ring from that, and barely longer to size it up against the gap it needed to fit into and confirm that it looked about right. Good enough to take the wheel off and have a closer look. Both the Golf wheel and the Felicia contact ring have three unevenly spaced mounting holes, which looked as if they were at approximately the same spacing, but the holes are not on the same PCD so I could not simply bolt them together. All I had to do to get round this was to open up the holes on the wheel a little with a drill, and then use flanged screws to attach them together. With that done, in classic Haynes manual style, reassembly was a reverse of the process involved to take it apart. I retained the dashboard mounted horn button as well, partly because it was there already and there was nothing to be gained from removing it, but mostly because my eldest grandson likes to go in the workshop and sound the Caddy’s horn, using that button, so I definitely do not want to spoil his fun.

I don't think any of them are. Even VCDS for laptops (I maybe wrong on that). Because simply you by rights shouldn't be altering any parameters yourself as it could invalidate any warranty that you may have And if you do get one then make sure that you backup all of the settings before you do anything.

Just in case anyone cared. It does!

Alternatively, consider a jump starter. Mine has proved its worth on a couple of occasions. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/92728/best-mini-jump-starter-packs

+1 from me. I've found them so much quieter than the Dunlops too.

Michelin cross climates would be my choice . I've had them on my present MK3 and other cars prior to that . I've found them to be good all round tyres.

Thanks @leolito. I'm not 'rejecting' all Mk3, but just mine which faced several problems, that turned my overall satisfaction to a subtil "fuzzy foggy grey" 😁... I'm still convinced Mk3 is a good car, but may be I've got a bad "not that good" number... Regarding what you describe as 'entering into madness territory', SWMBO fortunately agrees this project. 😮‍💨🤣

Here I just want to give a few observations and tips, as a non-mechanic, from when I fitted the front brake pads and discs to my wife’s Fabia Mk3. The job is easy and easier than the few other front brake pads and discs replacements I've done. There are videos of the job being done online, some more thorough than others, so I won’t be going through a step-by-step explanation as I’d not be as good as the videos. Along with the usual tools you need a hex H7 (7mm) bar/tip, (ratchet) socket or 7mm large Allen key, none of which I had in any of my tool kits and a Torx T30 tip or screwdriver. Different from what some videos show it’s now recommended not to use copper grease but Ceratec on metal-to-metal contact areas (only) which is the pad ears and where the pad ears move on the caliper. The two slide pins on each calliper were a bit of a pain and took time to clean the crud off without scratching so next time I’d buy new pins and it wouldn’t slow the process. You do not use Ceratec on the caliper guide pins because they go into a rubber part, the pins either go back in dry or you can use Hydratec for rubber contact (I used red rubber grease as I have a tin of it that will last me a lifetime). The pads have clips of different size for caliper side and other side of piston and the ones I got had two of the four marked “piston side” so with them you can’t go wrong (but I did! I put two outer pads on the first caliper despite the markings). You could perhaps use GT85 spray on the caliper piston rubber seals, I forgot. - https://gt85.co.uk/ I had the loan of a caliper rewind tool but careful use of other more basic tools would have worked fine, do check that the brake fluid will not overfill or overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back. A Torx T30 tip or screwdriver is needed to remove the one screw on the discs. After brushing and cleaning the hub I put some Ceratec grease on the hub where it touches the brake disc as it does rust there a bit. That’s it for the brakes but associated tips for the wheels and their bolts. Some Owner's Manual have to always undo the lock bolts first and replace them last, I place them opposite the tyre valve as a reminder of tightening order and if they've been moved then the garage might have taken the wheel off. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW use of wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). HTH.

You may be resetting the wrong option. There are actually 2 resets. "Oil Service Reset" and "Inspection Reset". Turn the Ignition off press and hold in the " SET" button and then keep holding it in while turning the ignition on. First option comes up on the display " Oil Service Reset " do not release the "SET" button, keep holding it in and after a couple of seconds the display will change to " Inspection Reset ". Then release and press the button again quickly to reset that option. I suspect you're only resetting the Oil Service and that's why you're still seeing the "Inspection Due" message. I may be wrong but that's the way it works on my Octavia. Just to add that my vehicle is on a Variable/Long Life service regime and using the above method will automatically change the car's settings to a Fixed service regime. I then use VCDS to return the car to my original regime after doing the oil change. Here's a video I found: