Leaderboard

Just returning to this thread to update it - and to say thanks for all the input. When I first saw the Christmas Tree of warning lights I feared the very worst, but the problem was exactly as stated here by so many knowledgeable people - a failed ABS sensor. If I had any mechanical skills it would have been a relatively cheap job, but I don't, so it was a dealer job. £120 for the diagnostics and £500 for the job (including bearing). I know a non-franchised garage would have done it for less (and who knows whether the reported corrosion on the ABS ring really necessitated changing the bearing as well as the sensor?) but we don't have one round here any longer post-Covid so it wasn't really an option. And, rightly or wrongly, I do trust this particular dealer. Anyway - thanks for the information, guys. It was invaluable and reassuring.

Should be a good car if it's been looked after. Those older 1.9Tdi were pretty bomb proof provided they had the right oil. My BIL had one and liked it but I could never get on with the interior lighting that was red so for some reason I found it really difficult to focus on.

The great thing about Bjorn's tests are they are consistent. Always the same GPS speed over known routes. makes for easy comparison between cars. 1000km challenge is at 130kph for all cars, so favours cars with good aerodynamics and efficient motors. This is probably why Tesla always do well but the new ID.7 saloon also did well in the test for the same reasons.

@MirkoRI Nope no programming or anything - just appears to be two antenna connectors. I reckon its an afternoons work for someone like myself who hates pulling interiors apart, and I'd be buying some replacement clips from VW and a good set of pry tools beforehand. Definitely buy the service manual before you do though - for £8 it will be invaluable going forward.

Sunset from a couple of nights ago down in Devon.

😲 After very nearly 10 years of my faithful Polo; a pal is selling a 57-plate Audi A4 estate with just 107k miles, 1.9 TDI and I am thinking it will be my next car, quite soon! Will feel terrible to lose the Polo, but no room to keep it. Partner wants to hang onto her 05 Fabia, and we'll each drive whichever is most appropriate for the day's journey or task. New house means we're both further away from jobs and friends, so a mile-muncher makes a lot of sense. Never owned a diesel before, but this one is pre-DPF and overcomplicated, inaccessible EGRs; so should be OK to maintain in good health. Didn't see that coming. Although a workmate with a similar commute did say as soon as I moved that I'd be wanting a better/comfier/longer-legged car, which I dismissed in my head at the time.

Ok, i did it for the record, there are 4 clips on the underside of the vent, (actually the vent cap) that need pressure to come off.

I do not click on his vids anymore. I have now read the various news articles covering the fire

/me waits for the first person to post tinfoil Geoffs video on the Rivian factory fire

Welcome. Sadly the 1.8 TSI is the engine to avoid. Obviously everyone can not be bad, some might have had replacement engine, or a rebuild, or have just been looked after and lasted till now. But!

The National grid guy seem to be saying that this was the right size of fuse for the building. I probably never have drawn over 80 Amps, even when the fully family was living at home, ladies with hairdryers and multiple other electrical devices for doing all manner of strange things. Sounds like a policy to make sure the right fuses are in the buildings. Perhaps move away from the 100 Amp fuse in the defacto size for a residential dwelling unless a mansion. Just worried me that it would blow and as it is a mechanical fuse, old school, blown bit of wire due to too much current, then it will be a right pain in the ass. Ring 105 if you fuse goes and the 24/7 Grid man will sort you out. If it blows a few time it sounds like they may put one up to a 100 A !! Cost about £3

No, nothing specific yet about EV's, I've been exposed to a lot through this forum but until I get any hands on experience (how I learn best) I would not be able to tell the nonsense from the real in some instances.

The separate daughter board is only for earlier pre-FL clusters afaik... As that's a FL cluster, it'll probably be the normal LED failure/dry solder joint which messes up the entire LED multiplex system used to power them. I think you probably need a good local electronics repair shop and to check out the guide in this thread:

Charging will take less because capacity is less. Charging up my 22 kWh net 24 kWh gross Leaf, now at 79% SoH. The energy put in and extrapolate out using % charged consistently comes to 17-18 kWh of energy as if to charge 0-100%. (for example, charge 50% used 9 kWh, this extrapolates to 18 KWh for 100%). Think of degraded battery like a petrol tank with a solid piece of gunk that slowly forms. It takes up fuel space in the petrol tank. Less space, less fuel you can put in or take out. With eNV200, it is based on Leaf platform, you can plug in OBD dongle and read Leafspy off it. There's a similar Renault app for Zoe and probably Kangoo, called CanZE: https://canze.fisch.lu/ The BMS will have a state of health guestimate value as it measures battery parameters, with these tools you can read out this value. Another key metric is to ensure voltage difference between cells are not too large at low SoC. Big delta for a few cells indicate weak/failing cells. One thing to be careful is that cells degrade as time goes on, known as calendar aging (other one is cycle aging). But the BMS SoH estimate wouldn't update unless it sees cells being exercised. Buying a battery that had been sat for years is risky because the SoH reading isn't up to date. To calibrate BMS, you need to do low SoC to 100% (or 100% to low SoC) at least once. On self discharge. If the battery were disconnected, they wouldn't self discharge much. Nissan Leaf are simple devices, the HV battery operates on same logic as car engine. It won't connect by itself. I've left Leaf for over 1 month at exactly 50% SoC and come back to 50%. It would take many months for the energy to slowly released as electrons leak back through lithium electrolyte, this is faster at higher SoC and much much much slower at low SoC (below 3.7v per cell). Tesla's are known to slowly decreasing SoC because they connect HV battery for everything, even refreshing the app vehicle status. So it draws energy from HV battery. This is called vampire drain.

In more than 10 years on this forum, I can't remember a single instance of someone solving a fault on a petrol Mk1 Fabia by changing the fuel filter. There are a few cases where a problem has been created instead, by filter with wrong pressure rating on the regulator part being installed.

Final quote came through from Brightwell Garage near me. £457.15 all in. Perfect! Lesson: read up on the issue whenever you get slapped with a giant bill from your chosen garage... Can't believe they originally asked me to pay £1311.54!!

Not the full 1,000 km challenge, which he reckons would take over 10 hours in the big battery Scenic, but a fuel consumption/range test.... I am sure he would get better range and quicker journeys if he stuck to 110/115 kph rather than driving at 130+ kph. Massive difference in energy consumption ie about 50% !

The phev remaps quite well. If you go for racing line or one of the European maps then it unlocks the full electric power in sport mode. As standard the motor puts out about 100ps. This is limited to 50 or 60% in sport mode depending on generation of car. So with the engine map making about 185 from 150 and the electric at full power the sport mode jumps from 220 to 280 give or take. Delivery is very strong and the torque is huge. Not great for a front driven car but once you get used to it you'll be fine. If you go for pretty much any other map it will only raise the performance of the engine. It's good but the increase with the motor is the big gain. There's even been discussion on other forums about an electric unlocked map that leaves the engine alone.

Hi all, I have just had the same issue (coolant leak, pump responsible, TPI: 2049883/6) just after my warranty expired. So, August '24, a fair while after the quotes/issues above. Marshalls in Newbury first took it in, charged the £100 diagnostic, then they thought they could charge me £1311.54 for: "Inspection Notes: Carried out investigation into coolant loss, carried out system pressure test, found leaking around coolant pump area, TPI 2049983/6 is relevant. Requires coolant pump seal and associated parts reference TPI." (Note: there is a typo in their TPI reference, it's actually the one identified earlier in this thread, I checked.) So, after the initial panic attack, I hunted on forums and such for the issue to get informed, including this thread (thank you so much!). I called them back to challenge the work, they itemised the breakdown and apologised for "putting the wrong labour cost by accident" and said £995 instead for the job: ~£225 for parts and the balance for labour (all incl. VAT). That's apparently 4.5hrs labour (I'm in the wrong industry!), down from the "accidental" 6hrs. I asked them why it would take so long and they had no answer, so I said fine I'll get some other quotes... Checking the nearest Skoda Approved repairers on the Skoda map, I got (all inclusive) quotes to replace the water pump: £573 from Banbury, £536 from Swindon, £589 from another Marshall garage in Reading, £556 from Winchester, and £629 from Southampton. The cheapest is a £459-£775 saving on the original quote (£995 or £1311, your choice). VERY importantly some of them shed a little bit of light on the price: 2.2hrs is the "Skoda National Catalogue" book time to complete the job. Southampton were a bit pricier on the parts, hence the range. Still awaiting some local indy Skoda specialist garage quotes to come back to me tomorrow, but the lowest so far is £472 from Oxford. I phoned Newbury back and gave them the information, and there was no manager in or anything, so the lovely but very new service assistant couldn't do or say anything to help, so I've collected my car, given them the £100, and will not be going back there again. Thought you should all be made aware of this. I was very disappointed in the garage I've previously enjoyed great service from. Currently debating how important the "approved Skoda" repair credentials are considering the attempted theft so far.

Didn't know this one. Thanks. https://www.theverge.com/2024/8/26/24228982/rivian-factory-ev-fire-damage-battery Vehicle fire in parking lot, multiple vehicle damaged, no injury. Cause is under investigation. From the way it's parked, probably new vehicle holding lot. https://www.facebook.com/groups/RivianEV/posts/1721643631926244/

During reading of past 10 pages in that priceless topic (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-failures/) and some related links from it, everything turned out into even worse picture. Trying to sum up: The issue with an engine could appear after increased oil consumption, but also have seen smth like "everything was fine and serviced, but suddenly it happened". That's bad and looks like lottery All 3 gens of TSI are affected(?) But it looks like improved replacement of chains, tensioners and some related parts in a good working engine could help(?) in further trouble free usage I figured out I must clarify before even visiting the car, does the owner has oil consumption / replacements of the mentioned parts / TSI generation / replaced engine... @Ootohere thank you for pointing out on that. I am upset, but glad to know it before buying, not after. But anyway I would be glad so ensure am I right or wrong in general approach and analysis

I went with a Givenergy All-in-One, similar specs but slightly cheaper and also Octopus can manage it if I choose to let them. For the moment though I'm using a Python script on an old laptop, could use the Givenergy app too but prefer the slightly more granular control I get with the script. It also has a gateway (mentioned elsewhere) so in the event of a power cut it'll supply up to 6kw continuous (for about 2 hours before batteries go flat), even without solar generation e.g. at night.

I don't think you can turn it off permanently, not sure if it can be coded out. I haven't tried turning it off yet, but will give it a go I think

See the pinned thread at the top of the Octavia Mk2 section on the 1.8 & 2.0 TSI,s.

@Ootohere so am I right thinking about following: If 1.8 TSI currently has no problems I can identify by driving and reading codes with a software, so I can proactively try to cure the worst timing chain problem by using like a kit (e.g., https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/timing-chain-kit-1-8t-2-0t-tsi-deluxe-oem/)? Or you was talking about another sort of failures I did not found in the forum yet? Just want try to confirm or reject following: because of choice absence I can go ahead only with Yeti 1.8 TSI or no Yeti at all. If I will service it and try to find something "alive", with chain replacement and some related parts, am I going to stay away out of big unexpected spendings for couple of years? PS. I got your points regarding service frequency, thank you!

Apologies for hijacking the thread. Phoenixboy I often un-tick the interior monitoring when I leave the dog in the car. I find interior monitoring is reset to active after unlocking the car, can you switch it off permanently?

Have you tried putting car in sport mode to see if it still kangaroos

Probably not due a change.

This is worth reading on self-discharge. Seems to be SoC + temperature related. Higher SoC, higher temperature, faster self-discharge. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-802b-what-does-elevated-self-discharge-do Perhaps my 1+ month Leaf example not dropping was due to BMS out of calibration and not understanding self discharge happened over that time frame. Again, remember that BMS is just guestimating the battery states and conditions based on parameters it measured. The article also mentions cell can no longer be charged below 2.5v. So your concern regarding irreparably damaged after a certain time is certainly valid. But that would only be a problem if the vehicle was left at very low SoC and not charged back up for a long time. It would also be very easy to identify because vehicle would no longer connect HV battery, undriveable and not easy to restore, battery would have to be removed and cells re-conditioned using method mentioned in the article. I personally think unlikely to happen for very old vehicles given skill shortage and no shortage of stock.

Updating the maps is the first thing I would try.... The online version might be right now but you don't know what version was integrated by VW in 2020... My 2014 Octavia isn't connected but you can download map updates from VW for free. After one update they had added the speed limits for some temporary roadworks into the map system. It was 2 or 3 updates before the limits were corrected even though the work only lasted 2 or 3 month max.

I also surf on a french Skoda forum. But no Superb owner complains about rear discs wear as on Briskoda… 🤷‍♂️ This I assume your point on climate is quite consistent. 😉

They might do if they see your post. I will flag for @Breezy_Pete, he might be able to help.

Am i on the right forum as I'm surprised no-one knows anything regarding this?

Not if he puts genuine or quality filter, easy job about 5 minutes too.

It is a case to hold your glasses. Push on the horizontal raised line and it opens.

Seen this?

We need more like these honest traders. Sounds like EV is a no-go for the lady, so it's better to lose a sale than to flog a car. When I talked to my Skoda dealer in 2022, they did ask the question that I have driveway to charge the car. But the Kia and Hyundai dealer were not only poorly informed on their product, couldn't care less about charging. Kia even pushed us toward the refreshed Niro so they can a completed sale quicker (component shortage back then).

So it looks like just these metal clips hold the vent inside the dash and nothing more.

You don't need to do the ABS Bleed Procedure to do a normal brake bleed. However if you have got air in the ABS unit then that's the only way to clear it and regain your hard pedal. I've found many garages don't even know what you're talking about when you ask them to do an ABS Bleed diagnostic procedure. I've even been conned by one who went yeah, yeah, yeah and didn't do it as charged and the car came back still wrong, until I did it myself. So if the garage did get air in the ABS, probably by letting the reservoir run dry while normal bleeding then doing a diagnostic ABS Bleed is the only way to resolve it. A normal brake bleed won't help at all. On my Yeti I did that procedure by getting all bleed nipples accessable, plug on a pressure bleeder and do the process. In retrospect I only needed both fronts accessable but an earlier Skoda Roomster needed all 4, so I was prepared for whatever the PC requested. You need a few litres of fluid but it's a straight forward process and immediately returns a hard pedal. I normally found the symptoms before are if the engine is off then you can pump a hard high pedal, but start the engine and the pedal then sinks down a lot. A little sink is normal due to the brake servo, but with air in the ABS it sinks a lot more.

Just remember to loosen your handbrake tensioner all the way down first and a little tip when your going to reinstall use a big zip tie to fully keep pressed in the wheel cylinder when reinstalling shoes take it off once you've set everything in place.

Yep, broken wire, have bypassed it to check, will tidy it all up tomorrow starts straight away.

Buying the Scenic was like pushing an opening door, I wonder just how far they would go in terms of discounts. As always look at Autotrader to see what dealers are offer. Usually it is hard enough just to get hundreds off the base model particularly but to get thousands off, and a loan rate lower than my mortgage rate and a free charger. I think there might be free mats and a bunch of flowers too. If I pay the rest of the deposit on American Express it might be scary what happens.

The Yeti has three different front brake disc sizes and three different rear brake disc sizes. Yeti front discs 280x22mm 288x25mm 312x25mm Yeti rear discs 253x10mm 272x10mm 282x12mm The Karoq has two different front brake disc sizes and one rear brake disc size. Karoq front discs 288x25mm 312x25mm Karoq rear discs 272x10mm

Audi, Volvo... rationalized the oil dip stick away and they are selling this like" You do not have to do this dirty task of checking the oil any longer. We are up market." BUT for a DIY oil change it is a right pain not to have a dip stick and use the dash oil display.

You can bleed the system without vcds, as long as you suck no air in. It's quite dumb if they managed to get air in there, but I wouldn't be surprised if they did..... It sounds like they have, if it was fine before, so will need to run through the vcds procedure. Their response of 'its normal' is what I'd expect, I've never known a main garage to give a you know what.

Looking at it from here with my (untrained) eye - the screws look like they enter from the bottom. I suspect thats a headliner down job. ... Yep just checked the service manual. Headliner down (hard part), then its fairly easy. The headliner will be the awkward bit. Worth buying the ERWIN subscription for an hour and grabbing the service manuals as it will make life a lot easier. I'm seeing torx bolts holding the board itself in. I suspect though this is soldered to some connector on the back, so that might not help you all that much, especially if the housing is broken too.

Decided to buy a few more bits from Kopacek to finish off the car. As the door puddle lights are a non-starter, I've now got the uprated lights for the underside of the mirrors. I will be honest, I am really not looking forward to trying to disassemble them, but hoping it will be worth the effort. Also picked up some genuine carpet mats. They were doing the premium ones for RHD cheap (10 Euros a set) to get rid of them, so ordered a couple of packs. They are extremely good, and very very thick. Finally, I ordered another boot net kit (yes, I know I already have one set). I wanted another side net, and this was the only way to get it. They were cheap enough that it's worth keeping the other two nets as spares. Also, I need to get my finger out and fit my dashcam. Similarly, not looking forward to trying to remove the passenger side A pillar trim. Praying I don't break it. Dread to think what a replacement would cost. Pics to follow when I fit stuff.

The nice thing is that with Skoda connect you can actually see the process and follow up. Mine was ordered 8th of July and still waiting for it's production week. Once it is being built you can track it including the delivery

I'll switch bluetooth and wifi off on the phone and connect it via the cable to see if it makes any difference.