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Personally, not really in the spirit of the forum to be selling the update file. Also, with no documentation, or indeed any reference to this update on the web, I would not install it at this point.

Had this beauty for two weeks now. Absolutely love the car so far...apart from the ridiculous 19" wheels and 'rubber bands' otherwise known as tyres. I am rectifying that though as next week I will be fitting 17" alloy wheels shod with Michelin CrossClimate 2 tyres.

Had a reply from Skoda UK, telling the tyre wear is normal for the mileage. had figures relayed from the dealership Service Manager. The statement claims that the amount of tyre wear is normal for the mileage - no mention of the inner edge abnormal wear that is on the MOT. The offer I had was a cutprice 4 wheel alignment after I had bought replacement tyres. That would make it 3 sets of rear tyres in 20,000 mls. I have now raised a complaint with Skoda CZ, we will see what that brings. Chris K.

I'm wondering if they haven't set up the gearbox correctly. They will have a procedure (actuated via diagnostics) to calibrate the the gearbox after any work so that it knows which gear it is in and performs as it should. Perhaps the gearbox calibration hasn't been done or more likely couldn't be done for some reason. The system will not allow calibration of any controller which it thinks has a fault. It might be that one of the many (sometimes simple) things that can prevent the start/stop from working is also preventing the correct set up of the gearbox.

Usually there is just one switch on the gearbox which operates when the car is in any gear (to stop the start/stop from starting the engine when in gear) rather than a switch for every gear. A problem with the switch, linkage or wiring would cause the start/stop issue so sort this out first and maybe the other 'gear selected' issue is just a quirk of this not working correctly.

if you turn off lane assist AND cruise control you see on the odometer (on my Octy iV)

BMW like to use runflats with stiffer sidewalls and/or also higher load ratings. I should have started my previous post of with "Typically,"

Welcome. Kamiq have a PCD / stud pattern as a Fabia / Scala. 5 x 100. Karoq & Kodiaq are 5 x 112. Then we get to wheel size / width and tyre sizes.

According to the owners manual for my '21 VRS it shows the tyre placard and the image with 3 people and suitcases is referred to as 'half load' whilst the image with 5 people and suitcases is referred to as 'full load', so it appears the number of people shown on the sticker is figurative rather than literal. I did initially think that these pressures seemed high, but then I remembered on my previous vehicle with 245/40 x 19's the tyre shop recommended 38-40psi. Additionally, when I recently had new front tyres fitted I asked the tyre shop (different shop to above FWIW) what pressures they recommended seeing as the majority of my usage is with just myself and perhaps a small amount of luggage and they recommended 39-40 which is inline with the tyre placard on the car. They also added that newer vehicles running larger wheels and low profile tyres run higher pressures than people were used to 10 or so years ago and that the higher pressures provide an element of cushioning when hitting potholes etc., which seem to be a scourge the world over at present. Add to that, if Skoda recommended a lower pressure for less weight in the car you would think that would be stated on the placard. Anyway, make of this what you will - personally I'm more than happy running the recommended pressures and have not seen any abnormal tyre wear from doing so. Edit: Just for some balance, attached is the tyre placard from a Ford Focus ST. You'll notice that it is less ambiguous than the Skoda one, showing 1-3 and 4-5 people which makes it clearer and also that the 238/35 x 19 option runs similar pressures to those recommended by Skoda for the 245/40 x 19's.

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It's also physics. Unless the tyre size (spec) is identical and the wheel dimensions are the same, oh and the mass of the wheel is the same, then it won't be a matched pair and the car will handle like cack. Add in modern stuff like abs etc and the car will not be happy.

from memory both (or at least one of these) these were added approx Apr 24 - I think you would know/would have found them if you had them?

For gearbox calibration related to start/stop could it be as simple as the engine not being warm enough for start/stop activation? Or off course start/stop as put is inactive for many reasons, battery in a lower state of charge than the start/stops wants is common of course, or the computer thinking this whether it is or isn't uncommon but possible by itself or with other info or false info it gets. The more complex the system the more trip hazards and loopholes and holes in it. As put in another post (in another thread about a different issue) perhaps the data logs from setting up the gearbox should be looked at and checked thoroughly. I got annoyed only last night setting up an email link that just wouldn't, as I'd fat-fingered the letter e to er, if I'd worn my glasses for the stupidly small textbox (luckily my wife pointed out my error when I asked her to check the details), I'm looking at doing VCDS long coding next before I put in for a job as a VWŠkoda technician. 😁 (an unfair generalisation I know)

Thanks for all the helpful replies. nta16 - I agree with you that the old studs were a better way of fitting tyres. MyTyres allows you to enter your vehicle details and match them with a rim, so the offset range should be correct. rum4mo - Thanks for the info re TPMS/ABS sensors. I'll probably order the cheapest steel rims then put nice covers on. I'll look for covers with those locating pegs, which sound much better than the old ones which were clipped on the rim. peter3197 - Thanks for the reassurance that the existing bolts will work with the new rim. I looked at the photos of yours and your wife's cars. That 15 plate looks brand new! My car is OK in metallic silver, but I really like that Race Blue. Also I like the wheel covers, which look like alloys. But when I Google'd 1U0 601 147 C it brought up a different model: Could you tell me where you got yours from please? I'm new to this forum and am amazed at how much help I've had with my first post. Thank you all.

I've found on pretty much any car there are always things listed that are not correct and it really saves a lot of wasted time and effort if you make sure you know exactly what you need before buying rather than trusting the system to bring parts up with the registration.

My full wheel alignment by a Skoda main dealer was £144.

Thanks, Yes I did take the hoses off before trying to lift the filter. I'll have another go at it at the weekend. John.

I'm guessing the perfume had some sort of solvent in it. I'm not the OP by the way.

I've had a few older cars, including a vw bora highline which is basically this golf with a boot. Apart from it was a pd130, this is a pd150. I've just been over to speak to the current mechanic. He is one of my sons best friends, time served with a local garage then been employed by a local bus/taxi firm which I used to work for as the sole mechanic keeping 10 taxis and well over 20 busses going. He has driven nothing but vag 1.9td and pd engines since he started driving 12 years ago. He has just left the bus firm and started on his own. I was over to ask him if I would order an ecu, he said no, he got another guy to remap my one. My one was an utterly crap map and it wasn't showing faults on vagcom, but threw loads of faults on the remap man's equipment. They tried a standard map then a stage 1 map and after the faults were mapped out the car performs better, it's not going into limp home but is still flat under 2500 revs. The conclusion is now that the vanes on the turbo are seized so the turbo is going to come out and rebuilt. This is apparently going to be the best solution to it, much cheaper than anew turbo, and much better than a secondhand unknown turbo. I like older cars, and used to do most of my own maintenance, but mow I'm not fit to do much in the way of maintenance due yo poot health. My skoda karoq is brilliant for my daily, being higher up, auto and easy to drive and comfy, but utterly boring as I find most newer cars. So getting the golf running and looking well is my project and like a toy. On my worst day it's incredibly difficult for me to get in and out, and work the clutch, but when I'm on better days I much prefer it to the karoq. I look forward to it being well again.

I think even the Kessy cars have the hidden keyhole... and as for starting it that doesn't need a fob battery - just push the start button with the fob itself rather than your finger and it'll work.

Thanks for that, I'm still not sure how to tell if the charge cooler is the cause? From cold on opening the water tank lid there is always a loud hiss of pressure - I'm pretty sure that shouldn't happen - does that point to the head gasket? Also this has been going on for a month or more now - if all that coolant has bene leaking into the engine and oil, would the engine even continue to run? After a minute of warming up it seems perfectly fine...

Thanks for all the info in this thread. My wife's car had a warning of a flat battery in the remote so I initially changed the battery. But the red light on the remote did not come on. I then put a new battery in the spare (it had never been used), but same result - no red led and not opening the car. So I now had two keys that didn't work. After reading this thread I tried resychonising the keys. Seems that the red light in the remote does not come on when pressing a button after a battery change (unlike my Octavia) until the key until it has been resychronised with the car. Also, while doing this, you need to leave the ignition on with the new key for about a minute for the sychronisation to complete. [The ignition has to be turned on anyway to switch off the alarm when you manually unlock thr car]

I agree, thanks for the advice

I always actually over service my cars. I only have owned the golf for under a year and only got a partial history. It had a really dodgy map when bought, but the previous guy who worked on it claimed he replaced the ecu as it was faulty. I've since heard of another person who was ripped off by him so I'm assuming g that he has charged me for an ecu ad never changed it. I know he also charged me for handreak cables which are old ones on the car now. I need to know for sure the ecu and map is good, if known good ecu does not help then the turbo has tocome out. We think it can only be one or the other.

Thank you. Is there a way of finding out if my car was part of that service campaign please?

On the last page a charge cooler is mentioned.

They've probably buggered something on the gearbox or more likely the removal or reinstallation of the gearbox and it looks like (of course I could be wrong) instead of full and proper inspection and full and proper diagnosis they might have (of course I could be wrong) just fired the parts-cannon at it. It needs proper full scanning and errors that show up investigating and integrating to see what's related, live data diagnosed, visual and physical checks of the gearbox and area and any other items and areas also that might be involved or nearby the work. All very obvious stuff but it needs doing rather than avoiding or neglecting. If the car has been back three times and two sets of parts fitted that haven't solved the problem then it might be time for your soon to "escalate" the matter and get VWŠkoda involved at a higher level of technical and management.

That's what they tried to do with me. If it's on finance, get on to your lender. Also, post your story on the Skoda Lounge forum on Facebook. Good luck.

The tightness of the grip of the steering wheel is nothing to do with anything. There is no strength testing sensor built into the steering wheel.

Mibbae aye, mibbae nay. It will depend on wheel (and tyre) sizes rather than just PCD though.

I guess you missed what Warrior193 posted back to you 15mins after your question. It is pretty much what you have posted back. I.e. 1. Buy a battery 2. You don't have to maintain power during the swap 3. Code it with VCDS or equivalent.

I’ve had my 280 doing similar and put it down to the colder weather, I’d dropped from around 31-32 mpg to 29ish. I did go around the car putting the back of my hand against the alloys and found the offside rear was warm when the others were quite cool after my journey from work the other day so I’ve got a slightly binding caliper but noticed no obvious difference in rolling resistance. Might be worth a try?

Hi Stonekeeper, just wanted to say thanks again for your suggestion: that is exactly what the dealer had done when ordering from factory; they’d selected the tow bar with trailer assist which then forces parking pack to be added. They were insistent if I wanted tow bar I had to have parking pack and I would’ve given in. Thank you for the reply and the instinct

Hey thats my car he reviewed! He did seem to really like it. He's a decent guy, certainly knows his stuff.

Not if you turn it off. Pointless in any case having to indicate just to cross a white line as often there is no need. Turn it and stop/start off every time I start the car.

Have to ask, why were you covering the sign? Not obliged to answer🤐

Like all these things - sounds good on paper... but then you find 'sport' is too harsh and 'comfort' is too soft and so you just leave it in 'normal'. Might be a bit different and useful in a proper sports car, but in a big family SUV I'm really not convinced it's worth it. Certainly wouldn't pay for it as an option.

Translation is a bit sketchy But maybe admin could consider making this a pinned topic

I just go with what it says on the fuel filler flap. That way if there's an accident I'm complying with the tyre pressures supplied by the manufacturer.

I took my complaint to VW Finance as my car is on PCP. They Prompted UK Customer Service to review my case. I also had the car into Skoda to check wheel alignment and got them to put down in black and white that the tyre wear was abnormal. When Skoda UK realised I wasn't giving up, they offered 50% of the replacement cost. I was happy with this as the tyres were about 50% worn on the main tread. VW FS are pursuing a refund for the wheel alignment check. If you show any sign of weakness, they will fob you off.

The DQ250 6 Speed Wet Clutch DSG is and has proved to be less liable to fault than the DQ381,s. Sadly VW Group / Skoda are still head in the sand over the failure rate around the world. Re the VAQ Diff. It is high time that Service Desk staff and Workshop managers and techs were being made aware of the servicing requirements. Obviously there are trained and qualified ones that know the service regime and tell owners.

Unplug the single-wire connector from the oil pressure switch, looking for oil inside the connector. If there is any, replace the switch.

Here she is after an 8 month wait. Just had her Ceramic coated. 1.5 DSG Sportline

This photo was taken on a recent trip to the west coast of Scotland. 71 plate Skoda Karoq Sport Line 1.5 TSI DSG in metallic Race Blue.

Just picked up my Sportline 1.5 pre-reg on 23 plate. Got a great deal, trading in my Octavia estate, and well happy. A few extra packs fitted and two free services clinched it. Oh, yes, and that fabulous colour!

@OldKaroq Thank you 😊 Its ‘Graphite Grey’ in Škoda speak, slightly darker than ‘Business Grey’ 👍🏻 Very early days but having done around 70 miles so far I’m very impressed, I need to get some centre caps ordered so I can take the cheese graters off the wheels though, can’t say I’m a fan…

Karoq Sportline 1.5 collected on the 29th oct.

Managed to find a Phoenix Orange 1.5tsi Sportline with Winter+ and Amundsen+ packs, one month old and £4000 less than new retail price so whats the point of waiting months? Pick it up next week and say goodbye to my Black 1.5tsi SEL. No more spending ages trying to locate my car in the car park!

Skoda Phoenix Orange in very bright sunlight. The colour ranges from almost yellow to a bronze in lowlight. I think its a "marmite" colour, but im done with "50 shades of grey" 😳 For the last 12 years I have had black, silver and grey, all neutrals.

I'm new to Skoda. In the past I've owned Audi, Seat, Hyundai and other makes. So far, I'm very happy with the Karoq. The dealer let me know that there was a facelifted Karoq on the horizon for 2022. I chose to order an existing model on the system rather than wait until next year. The car was ordered at the end of October. I was kept informed of its travel from the factory, to Emden (Germany), and then over to the UK. I collected it on 29th November. During the decision-making process I've been reading through all the information on this site and found it very useful. I've also watched dozens of Youtube videos on the Karoq. There seems to be quite a bit of variation in what comes supplied with Karoqs, depending on age and trim level. My car is a 71 plate (MY22) Sport Line 1.5 TSI DSG in metallic Race Blue on 19" wheels. The things it came with included: Amundsen infotainment screen Sport Line flat-bottomed steering wheel Panoramic glass sunroof Tinted privacy glass on the rear windows DSG paddle shifters on the steering wheel 2 x USB-C sockets in the front Wireless mobile phone charging pad in the front next to the USB-C sockets Umbrella in a drawer underneath the front passenger seat Ice scraper inside the petrol filler flap Cargo nets in the boot Luggage dividers / fasteners in the boot 2 x shopping bag hooks in the boot Skoda cuddly lion on the dashboard : ) (see photo) There was no torch in the boot. I'm led to believe the torch was discontinued a while ago. I've attached some photos, taken on the day I collected the car. Looking at the latest information on the 2022 facelifted Karoq it looks like Skoda won't be offering the new model in Race Blue. Cheers PJ