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Read the guide below and watch the YouTube video which is extremely useful and shows you an update process in real time. Only perform this procedure if you are confident in doing so and it is at your own risk. Apparently, Skoda has stated this will be the last major software version update for the Skoda Octavia Mk4s, although I imagine the mid-Mk4 facelift models will get further updates. I applied the update to my Octavia Estate First Edition 2021 plate and all seems to have gone smoothly but it goes without saying manually update only if you are confident performing the procedure and it's at your own risk. FYI, I updated from version 1969. You will need an ExFat formatted USB-C type drive - oddly my Sandisk Micro SD Card with USB-C adapter wasn't detected by my Octavia so I switched to a 1TB USB-C Lacie hard drive I had lying around and that worked fine. You can tell if your drive is "compatible" and has mounted when you start the update process as, at one stage you will have to select either "USB1" or "USB2" - if a drive is mounted/detected one of these will be in bold. 1. Download the compressed package from one of the two links below: Octavia Infotainment Update Version 1985 - Google Drive https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZSh8xZ7iUQu9K1u4uwTGbHqtxFE7m0OFtV 2. Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet, for example, MU1985 3, Locate the downloaded compressed file package and then right-click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to the MU1985 folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished extracting the files you will have the following TWO folders (previously there has been a third file but not this time, just the two folders below): Data Meta 4, Copy the above two folders directly to the root of your ExFat formatted UB-C drive. These two folders need to be at the root / top level of the USB-C drive, not contained in any other folder and you don't want anything else on that drive THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES / FOLDERS THAN THIS. Once done you are ready to move to your car to start the update. 5, Insert your USB-C drive into one of the front USB ports and put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. At this point, you must have a full or very well-charged car battery so that the car doesn't shut down halfway through the process. The ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. 6. Hold the "Menu" button until the engineering menu appears. 7, Watch this video which essentially shows you in real-time the update process. It's in German but it's easy to follow and the video relates to software version 1941 but it's essentially the same process. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU Be warned, there are moments when the screen goes black, the system reboots and the CPU upgrade stage looks like it has frozen but it hasn't. Just be patient, let the system do its thing and you should get a successful update of your system. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you.

ETA: just beaten to putting some of below. You will need to do this a number of times over a reasonable distance and average it out, preferably over the same route with the same circumstances and environment but you are already in the car manufacturers' nth degree of nth degree of mpg figures which will vary on future tests. The tyre figures you have shown are nominal and comparing new to new tyres of the same sort which I doubt was how you changed your tyres. There are websites that give information to show how complicated this sort of thing is and at 1% change I'd guess you'd be within margins of error and variance. Good luck though, let us know how you get on and the out come.

I have now sourced the 1985 update package and installed successfully. Everything seems fine but got a long journey tomorrow which will confirm its stability. I’ll happily share it FOC over the weekend on my cloud servers for members to download with a guide (basically the same guide notes for the 1969 update).

it's only starting to put EVs on a par with ICE so stop complaining ;o)

Pretty sure most common rail engines aren't a great candidate for bio-diesel conversion due to the lubrication needs in the high-pressure fuel pumps and injectors so it feels quite unlikely for such a new car to have been converted given the potential savings. There is already an option in the infotainment system to disable interior monitoring if needed. It used to be a switch on the drivers B-pillar... Progress As I said before, the tracker is the most likely option. It might be worth taking a look to see if there is any wiring coming off the back of the switch or any other obvious modifications around the OBD port. It's likely to be a separate system so I wouldn't expect any obvious changes when flicking the switch. It's worth investigating to make sure that you're not being tracked and there are no future issues with power draw causing a flat battery etc. Assuming it has been completely removed, a new blanking plate will let you remove the switch too

Ad blu doesn't have anything to do with regeneration even in diesels that use it.

Yes the petrol with a GPF does do some sort of regen. Differently from a DPF, when hot and when off the accelerator. Try a search. Briskoda gpf Regen. Mk3 Octavia threads about warning light flashing etc. No warning light for the car doing automatic things. But when you might need to do a forced regen there is.

FYI: N75 valve replaced by Skoda garage in February 2024

I love my Roomster but they are dwindling in numbers. The manufacture was stopped around 2015 and that means 10 years have passed since new ones have been registered for the road. To drive a legacy product of which many have already faced end of life is a triumph and the advice given on the Roomster forum is invaluable to keep the remaining models going. Thank you

No I was a numpty too, I was going to direct you to the Fabia Mk3 forum as I thought this thread was elsewhere then saw it wasn't. And now I know I've not seen how to do the adjustment until AG Falco's post, now I know. but doubt if I'll remember. 🙃

Off the bat, something very conducive to quality of life is, IMO, a HUD. I know this isn't specific to Fabias or Skodas at all, but it's very handy on the Fabia where I sit relatively high above the gauge cluster. I bought specifically the "M7" version, as the Chinese retailers call it - not too tacky or obtrusive, good features, and relatively good reviews all around. I've been using it for a few months, got it about 3 months ago. This specific HUD model can pull speed information from the CAN bus/OBD2 port, or from a built-in GPS receiver. Because of the GPS jamming in my area and because I have no quarrels with the speedometer, I opted to "set and forget" for OBD2 data. It also displays RPM, and it can show temperature and battery voltage. It should display warnings for these, but (thankfully!) I've yet to see any of them. The provided "non-slip mat" also works much better than expected. Display response is delayed by roughly half a second. Perfectly acceptable, in my opinion - it's not like you're staring at your speedometer while emergency-braking or accelerating hard. And to be fair, this Fabia isn't exactly one where you could overshoot your desired speed by too much 😆 It does have a double reflection, but it's not obtrusive in person and does not hinder the legibility. An issue I feared I'd have is it's minimum brightness, since a lot of my longer drives are done on a dark road. Although I'm picky, I'm not completely satisfied with the brightness ranges - It doesn't go down as dark as I'd like, although it does get respectably close, and in direct sunlight it's just barely visible. On darker nights I sometimes contemplate pulling it out, but the convenience of seeing my speed via my peripheral vision is very nice and I never do. In this picture it looks very bright, but I assure you it is darker in person, and automatically adjusts to your surroundings. It has a glare shield, which is very nice, since it's resting on the dash where it would blind me if it hadn't. Keep in mind that your passengers can also see your speed - if you're driving with your mother, take that into consideration 😄

Hello to anyone reading this! This is going to be where I document anything I do on my Fabia (other than stock). My Fabia is a 2016 1.2L TSi with 5-speed manual, as far as I know with stock trim, and I'm the 3rd owner. I bought it with 16" non-alloy wheels, originally made for a Seat Ibiza, but with a Skoda badge taped on 😆 As of time of writing, I don't have a garage where I can freely work on modifications, so everything I do is shadetree mechanic'ed. For reference, I am an electronics engineer by profession, and a hobbyist only in mechanics.

Thank you 😊 I will copy my topic to there.

Hello. I have changed few things today like engine oil Total Quartz 9000 5W40 API SP, Total dsg oil, haldex oil, air filter, spark plugs, pcv valve, n205 magnet, both camshaft oil control valves and winter tyres R18 Dynamic from Phaeton. Remaining: rear diff oil, front transfer box oil, brake fluid, coolant g12evo, cabin filter, maybe prop shaft flexible coupling...

Version 1985 Update files available to download with installation guide available here:

That is a lot. But we have no idea the length of your commute to work. Not much colder is it where you are? Then you have more rubber on the road, we have no idea what tyres you have on and if any less efficient. More grip / traction / friction. SAFER. You now have winter formulation petrol in the filling station, less hygroscopic than earlier in October, but no less of an octane / ron than before. Still E5 or E10 if you use that. It can actually be a higher ron then the Min 97 or 99 if you use Super Unleaded.

👍👍👍

If you have the 4 x H7 headlamp type unit then:- You want to remove the rear bulb rubber covers from the dipped beam bulbs. These are the outer two which are almost under the wing. Then look for the small silver lever. Are your photos of the inner two main beam bulbs? Thanks. AG Falco

Hallo hab das Update gemacht alles in Ordnung. Danke

I've had it for two months now and works well. Driving mode always retains in individual, as well as lane assist off works really well and start stop is off too. You can also disable the memory module while it is still installed. Installation took around 10 minutes and it worked right away. Only thing I feel like is missing that start stop would disable shutting off engine while coasting, however it is not possible without ECU remap.

Not possible to do swdl downgrade

caught v1.31.50 for Mib3, size and content hugely increased 1,13 GB previous v1.31.48b had 162 MB

Ask the one you bought it from...

Yes, and the difference that makes for business users and those charging off peak is really paid for with 4 tank fills of fuel not required if it was an ICE vehicles. It seems to be those without EV,s that are all excited at the idea of others having to pay the Government Treasury money for VED. EV owner might just dismiss this additional running cost as neither here nor there. Plenty disabled keepers and drivers in the UK will be paying nothing extra.

Beyond that, the Government are about to steal a bit more money from EV owners in the form of VED starting April next year, which I'm sure they'll find some stupid way to waste.

Thank you so much for sharing the file.

Thank you for sharing it!!! 👍

The procedure seems to be easy. A lot of screws and some clips. My advice is to remove the rear lights, (it's not nessesery but it will help you with the clips (No1, 2, 5, 6)

Morning I have the same map issue on the VC. I spoke with the dealer and they emailed back with the below…. ”I understand you have recently purchased a new Kodiaq and have a map loading issue that is on your dash. I have done some checks into this and found that SKODA are developing an update for your car. I have been put on a mailing list” No mention of any timeframes.

Yes, thanks. Now edited to 8.

Good bit of detective work 🕵️

That’s not available on early version. My MY17 doesn’t have this feature for instance.

usually, speedometers show 3-5% less than reality, with +1% tires you have moved just little bit closer to GPS calculated values for info about Fine Tune, search "Wheel circumference" in this thread -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516414-vcds-options-on-superb-iiifl/

I completely agree with you, but being angry at them will change nothing. Seems like the issue is affecting minority of the people, so it is not a top priority for them to solve it... If they will not fix it then I will. I wouldn't let this cloud your judgement as I think it is still one of the best value for money car. And again, you don't have to do it frequently, maybe just once until the fix.

All season tyres fitted now. (and yes, the car is filthy - will be doing something abut that this weekend!)

Hydrate 80 ideally used on clean metal. Plenty of people say to put on rust, but that’s the advice I got a month ago from Bilt Hamber. I was trying to buy it as prep for a subframe with surface corrosion. The guy who replied was surname Hamber, so I’m guessing he knew what he was on about. If you want to protect it for a short time while waiting to have it done, I think there a few ways. It depends on extent of rust, how much is hidden, how much work you want to do etc. Not an expert, suggestions… Remove loose stuff. Then degrease/clean. Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is just a generally superb product to have around for cleaning just about anything. Get 5L and you won’t regret it (dilutes a lot). Use it very diluted and make sure surfaces are very well rinsed afterwards. The surfactants in it can otherwise prevent some of the products working (according to BH). If it’s not very dirty, or as a way to ensure a clean surface after Surfex HD degreasing , spray and wipe with isopropyl alcohol or a 50/50 mix with water. Getting areas dry afterwards is obviously tricky at this time of year, so patience may be needed. A blower and or heat gun used carefully may help. Then… Spray with Bilt Hamber Atom Mac. Cheap and quick. Perhaps suitable for short term protection. This can be used also if you prep to bare metal and wash to prevent flash rusting. or Coat with a grease or wax product. I’ve just slapped a blob of Corrosion Block (made by people who make ACF50) on a stone chip on the Yeti until I can paint. or Try a paint on rust converter like Kurust. I’ve found it to be good stuff. It needs to work on rust rather than bare metal although it does still react and coat bare metal. Won’t work well on thick rust as it can’t get to stuff underneath so that would need wire brushing or similar. I use before stone chip touch ups, but have also used on a mower deck about 3 years ago which then remained unpainted. Not always out in the rain of course, but stayed protected. Rust starting to reappear now on that. Do not get on skin or eyes. I know most products say this, but take the warning seriously for Kurust. or Use BH Dynax UB or UC (UB brown, UC clear). I recently did the subframe and suspension members on another car after wire brushing, cleaning and Kurust. Dynax can be bought in a tin for brushing or in an aerosol. Protect surrounding ares, clothes, wear a mask. They also do S50 which is for internal cavities. For body panels, you find an access whole and use a straw on a spray can to coat inside. Not tried this yet. BH have rust remover (not converter) called Deox. They do a powder and a gel. I have used the powder for (which you dissolve) for rust removal in a fuel tank. It’s intended for parts which can be immersed. I found it decent, but also used citric acid which I found to do a similar job. The gel is more suited to body panels. I think it can do a good job, but it’s much more difficult and you would then need to protect bare metal. This video shows a way to use it on a wheelarch:

Pretty sure it's normally the headlight range for cars with halogen headlights As for the OP's car, it's probably for an aftermarket tracker which can be set to business or personal use (hence B & P). No idea if it'll still be fitted or if it's just the switch that's been left in place.

AGN valve cover R8 coil adapter finally installed 😇😇😇, first polihed than chromed

It was always going to be so. as soon as there were enough EVs on the road they just become 'cars' and are therefore a target for taxation. ICE cars will get hit with punative taxes as well soon enough to drive them of the roads. But I'm sure that expensive exotics will be somehow exempt through 'classic' rules. So your chap with a 20yr old Ferrari won't pay but a 20yr old transit will.

Here’s my 2.0 Diesel Sportline, just after its first wash after I picked it up at the end of 2021.

who claimed it was?

My original AGM failed within 1 year - symptom was non-functioning stop/start, dealer eventually diagnosed faulty alternator and replaced both under warranty. The replacement EFB is still showing at least 85% health on test after 8 years and I always use idle stop apart from stops of less than around 10 secs.

I've had 2 Octavias with start/stop, first one was on original battery when sold at 7 years old and second one is still on original battery at 8 years old - start/stop worked/works correctly on both.

Ballcocks! A mate of mine taxied a Superb with Stop/Start in urban traffic and the battery lasted 3 years before the Stop/Start ceased to operate.

I've owned 4 cars with stop/start, done ~60k miles in each over a 4 year period and never had one battery fail....

^^^^ rubbish on killing new batteries in 12 months. There will be plenty here that do not just switch off stop start when they start a trip and have batteries lasting the period of the Manufacturers Warranty on the car.

Had the car since April and this weekend realised that there is a way to manually control the stop/start whilst driving. Apologies if it’s in the manual somewhere but I’ve never seen it or seen it mentioned anywhere on here or in other Facebook Groups. You can control whether the stop/start activates each time by the amount you press on the brake pedal. If you only press lightly on the pedal, enough to keep the car held, the start/stop doesn’t kick in but if you press harder on the pedal it will then kick in. Since realising this I’m pretty much able to stop the stop/start kicking in when I don’t want it to and let it kick in when I do. Again apologies if this is common knowledge and just me that was in the dark about it. 😉😁

I feel like it would be better to adjust the existing Ali cable harness and connect it to the gateway than cutting into the original harness in the car. If you really want to go this way, I recommend using the CAN bus lines behind the infotainment unit (on passenger side). There is way easier access to the cables so you will not break your back while doing it and also there is smaller risk of damaging wires important for safety. The pin 8 on Ali harness is CAN low and the pin 9 is CAN high (same thing on the gateway), if that's what you are looking for. But probably good idea to double check, if you have the scope. If you have lab power supply, you can also try to put 28V (load dump - norm VW80000) into the Ali module to make sure it doesn't burn. If it does, it's better it happens on your work table than in the car 😃

I am 99 % sure the car didn't start because the Ali wire harness was faulty (short circuit, missing terminals, or terminals in the wrong position) or because it wasn't installed properly. Generally speaking - if the connector doesn't fit, don't try to connect it. I don't have experience with the Ali cable but It's difficult to "fry" or permanently damage the gateway unit, I wouldn't be afraid of that. I would be afraid that the CAN bus communication would stop working while driving. By the way, one CAN bus consists of 2 wires (CAN low & CAN high) and must always be twisted together to prevent noise. Notice that there are no twisted wires on the Ali cable. Imho that beautifully illustrates the overall quality 😃

Following Dieselgate VAG have removed all the diagnostic tool methods of disabling start/stop.