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I disagree, it's the drivers responsibility to be in control of the vehicle at all times and to be aware of what is in front, behind, road conditions, upcoming junctions, other vehicles, pedestrians etc and to brake to avoid any collisions, far too many are abdicating control and their own responsibility to the vehicles systems, a good example of that is people who no longer dip their headlights because the car supposedly does that and complain that the people flashing them are not being blinded, they just think that they are because they don't understand that their car has this wonderful system to prevent it.

not all cars live in lovely heated garages 😞 or even in a garage (because too big)

A few from last night's visit to Belton.... NT Belton

Tuesday morning's sunrise........

Oil level sensor and QI6 servicing code at delivery both confirmed.

Bad News to report. I had the update on Monday, and after 50 miles I am getting: Occupant Protection Restricted Front Assist Unavailable Emergency Assist Unavailable. I think it is fair to say, Skoda have failed their customers

Good idea, must remember to turn headlight off when going forward

There's not many parts worth the expense of replacing unless there's an issue as it's not a difficult car to get apart in general. At 140k though the gearbox mount is likely knackered (£35 Autodoc and new stretch bolts from the dealer £25). New oil for the gearbox and angle box if you haven't replaced it recently. Slave cylinder worth it so it doesn't contaminate the new clutch/dmf. Usual general check over as you go and I like to have a spray bottle of lanoguard or similar to touch up any areas that are showing corrosion. Don't forget to recalibrate the gearbox linkage when you're done to keep the best gear changes.

Not nowadays. The Law changed sometime ago and now there only needs to be a warning if there is a fault, like a blown bulb, and the trailer indicators aren't working. On the Yeti (and many other cars) with a integrated system that is provided by the bulb failure system.

. . . and the clowns in the Road Traffic Research Labs will make all cars have auto-dipping brake lights to compensate.

I got a massage function working on my car, but only works when wife is in a good mood and is seated behind me

So I definitely have mib 2.5, although I thought it was mib 2. I've already downloaded a pdf with the instructions and I've also read a lot here, but people update versions like 238-306, my version is 1382. It's probably different software altogether. If you could point me in the right direction, venom171, I'd be grateful

@venom171@Miro85 please post in the forums language (English) as stipulated in the rules. (even if that through an online translator).

"Or should I go with VW 508 00 - Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV" I've just bought the above for my 1ltr Kamiq, assuming you have the same engine, it will be fine. If you've not bought the oil yet I got a decent price for 5 litres off eBay seller pulman-vwg enough in that fir anoil change and any top ups. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305505611899?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Et9UQ7e_RVq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=PjrX0wOKTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

Ta. No smoke earlier, I happened to be in the kid's room when the service chap took it for a run and looked out the window, as one doesn't often see someone else driving one's car, and other than a puff on intial move away, it was clear (and that looked like just vapour). He said the idle was rough. Then did a second run and it was ok. I guess that was the last gasp of the injector as it is now firmly... wobbly.

Sorry to derail this slightly, but to get on topic I had the car serviced today and realised it was the first time the fuel filter had been changed since August 2019 (5+ years and 63,000 miles ago). That done... the mechanic picked up a fault with injector 1 on the scan and then blow me, if it didn't then... blow! Went to go to Sainsbury's and the engine was bucking like an angry mule and struggling much beyond 20mph. Managed to detour to a very local garage who had a quick look and said yes, seems to be firing on three cylinders. Fortunately I have a mechanic who quoted £60 to £100 labour to replace the injector, if I supply it. Thinking though... whilst he is in there is it worth replacing all four? Assuming they're all the same age, if one goes, will the rest follow? You can get 4 x reconditioned injectors for £200 to £300 so the whole job of replacing four so should be no more than £500 all in. It might also make sense of the emissions troubles I had if the engine wasn't optimal and also, in another thread I started in the summer, some intermittent hesitancy/vibration.

Looking at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514837-mib2-software-update-canton/#comment-5770509 I'd say the MIB2.5 software versions start "MHI2" (sometimes known as MIB High I think) and latest is MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 Details are https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 here you'll see the download link It'll take you to https://mibsolution.one/ where the login details are "guest" and "guest"; and if you go through the file-tree you should get to https://mibsolution.one/#/1/9/MHI2 - HARMAN/Firmware/Skoda I think (Harman is the vendor) which should have the software to download there.

All cables come the the front corner with fitted conduit and then enter via existing hole in front roof bar mount - this car used to be an ambulance in a previous life, I used all existing cables that were left behind (the roof rack to power supply is all new cable, obvs) The quality of the ambulance installation was below standard to say the least. The general condition of the car and wiring is now to a more acceptable standard and one step away from becoming a zombie apocalypse battle tank 🤣

You can often find them a bit cheaper than on the Thermos site, Amazon or Ebay for example. But they're excellent and keep it very hot for a good 6 hours

When bleeding slave keep going till fluid is clear again. Mine was absolutely awful. Almost a dirty green/brown colour. Reckon it was the same fluid from new and that would have been over 18 years old.

Thank you everybody for the comments. Basically I don’t have the options on my driving mode screen to select electric, hybrid or auto. I took the car to the Škoda Arnold Clark in Edinburgh. They said a technician looked at the car and that the options have been removed in a recent update. I just don’t think that it correct. please see photo of what I see on the drive mode screen.

Any EVs aiming to be bought Q1/Q2 of next year and in the luxury cars tax band of over £40K RRP should get in registered in Q1, presumably March to get the new Reg but not the luxury car tax. Not sure TESLA fan boy Dave mentioned about all registered EV owners going on to the Reistation website and redoing their EV tax in March so they get the longest period on the £10 a year and then that goes long in to the period that all car VED taxes goes up to £190 for all cars irrespective of propulsion types, Evs included, more for luxury cars including EV register on or after 1st of April 2025. I do expect many EV RRPs to fall rapidly at this point, probably seeing a 10% or more further drop in EV prices. Firstly EV dealers will want to avoid their customers being hit with the £500 plus a year for several years. Many EVs, like the big battery Scenic Techno base version is prices at £41K but punters have been getting thousands off in discounts so Renault and other EV manufacturers will price now below £40k. Also the battery prices have been falling like a stone so should be easily possible for the manufacturers who currently price between £40k and say £46K. Those above £46k or so will probably need to bring their cheaper EV versions to the UK market ie slightly smaller battery packs, LFP rather than pure Lithium packs. Another nail in the coffin for Audi, BMW, Mercedes and VW IDs made in Germany will in currently economic model just may not be possible to get their cars landed in the UK at £40k. Golf production rumoured to be going the same way as the Beetle ie to Mexico, maybe VW etc need to move other of their car production lines to Eastern Europe to make them cheaper/affordable ?

I'd far rather see much more stringent actual on hands stringent compulsory driver training.....like skid control on a skid pan For instance, I was marshalling on the Grizedale Stages rally last December ('23) and the event had to be cancelled mid morning due to the most horrendous snow storm, making the stage impassable. Then came the major , almost military style operation of getting everyone back out from the forest. 6 hours and 2 miles to get out , mainly due to a few having absolutely no idea really on how to drive in treacherous conditions. Going downhill was the most challenging, with several just slamming on the brakes when they started to slide, with the inevitable to follow, blocking the track for everyone else whilst long winded recovery took place from within the trees ditches and undergrowth, and then another 3 hours to drive on the public highway to Newby Bridge, a mere 10 miles away with the same problems. I was in my Fabia vRS with winter tyres, and even that struggled, but made it eventually with no damage fortunately. What a day that REALLY was!

You will need special bolts and eccentric spacers to ensure that the subframe goes back in exactly the same position unless you like driving a car that crabs, will dive into the kerb or across the road if you let go of the steering wheel, I found that out the very hard way.

You and I survived, but quite a lot of people didn't. The aim of the various driver assistance devices is to increase the number of people surviving in the future. I have an aviation background and when aircraft automation first came in, the old and bold pilots resented it. Especially in an emergency situation, they wanted to be the big important hero guy manhandling the flight controls. They resented some computer doing it for them. But history has shown that they crashed quite a lot, whereas after the introduction and acceptance of aircraft automation, accident rates were substantially reduced. Of course competent use of the automation requires training, and that is probably where the problem arises with automation in cars - there is no training on how to monitor the automation, or even how it works or more importanly how it behaves. For example I suspect a lot of people don't realise that whilst if you have ACC engaged and the car in front slow down, your car will brake as necessary (up to a maximum braking limit), whereas if you come round a corner and encounter stationary cars ahead, it won't brake and will plough straight into them. This is the sort of thing that ought at the very least to be highlighted in the manuals - but even then, lots of people don't read the manuals! So really, there should be mandatory training on how a car's driver-assistance systems behave, just as there is for aircraft. Never going to happen, I know!

Update to anyone who unfortunately needs to do this: the model with B at the end does work.. or it is currently working better than before! Seems like it's also sorted then extreme rattle when you first start the engine somehow!

Well, I found the answer to my turbo lag. I bought a pedal box from Bluespark Automotive for £200. I live near their workshop so they fitted it for me. They set it to Sport mode and I was amazed at the response. There is no turbo lag at all. This 110hp engine does not need any extra power, but the pedal box makes it feel as if it has, especially below 2000rpm. Previously it took ages to move through the gears at lower speeds, but now I can get up to 5th quickly and still keep the revs low, which will probably save fuel. There are 10 modes and I tried Comfort mode but the response was a bit slower, and there is an Auto mode which ‘learns’ your driving habits. Race mode is self-explanatory and not for an oldie like me. Each mode has 10 settings and I found Sport setting 1 is best for me. I strongly recommend this product to anyone who is frustrated by turbo lag.

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AMNAOVdfw3JlDEQ&id=6E88BDCCE887813A!391667&cid=6E88BDCCE887813A

This one ? https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a7/

A mate of mine had a Range Rover. The BSWS on it once made a point of warning him that he was being overtaken by (or overtaking) various bits of farm machinery at a dealership he was visiting!

IIRC, the sensor is under the cup holder. I've had that before when I had the keys in the same pocket as an RFID wallet......

No idea where they sourced it but arrived next day. I paid £825 for the complete job, expensive I know but I’ve used them before and with a brand new car I didn’t want anything but a good job done. I have kept the original panel in case when I sell, the Towbar not wanted.

This is really helpful stuff, thanks very much. Will download the next version after Christmas (got a long drive tomorrow morning). the wireless carplay still works fine on my iPhone but not on my wife’s, it works when plugged in though. I’ve got a USB-A in the glove box and then that low-powered USB-c in the wireless charging ashtray.

I think you should plug the ports with bananas, find a movie track with many explosions and see how far you can fire the bananas across the room. A sort of 'Sub' machine gun for bendy yellow fruit

High chance its a DMF flywheel unless someone else has converted it to solid. Have seen a few posts where folks convert it to solid for reliabilty. I had a fabia 1.9tdi that was DMF and luckily the flywheel was still in perfect condition when I did the clutch so just left the DMF in place. If yours is rattling then reckon its on its way out. You can get a full kit and personally I would use Sachs,Luk or Valeo. Check the condition of CV joints and gators and drive shafts etc and also Wheel bearings while your at it. I did my sons in his fabia and got a cross engine bar that goes across front wings from ebay to support engine and gearbox. Made life a lot easier especially raising box to get it back in again as I did mine on axle stands by myself. Changed a front bearing while I was at it. Not sure what more has to come off for the octavia. I would personally change the slave cylinder while your at it. If its like the fabia its external mounted but push rod and gator are internal so if it fails or leaks then it could contaminate the new clutch. Can't be much original left on your car judging by the pile of bits. Well done, bet it drives like new now. Alasdair

I'd just go to the Tayna website and input the reg number. That's all I did and confirmed the result matched in size, terminal configuration, Ah. Then just ordered the Varta AGM one.

That's the fusebox internally - try the one under the bonnet.

@memoliI don't understand your reaction, are you expecting we will be pulling dashboards out of our cars and figuring everything out for you? I've spent quite some time trying to search the answer, posted here all I found and advised how to do the rest and all I got for thanks is a facepalm emoji? Way to go! Good luck with your project.

Is this information what is needed? Cheers!

it is a tad dirty tho after that

I think you can expect that though, I've had warnings for the same scenario but never any braking. Because the other car is turning its effective speed in the direction that you are travelling is very low and often you are able to go around in situations like this as well which it cannot predict. In 85K I've never had mine slam on, only ever had the pre warning. You definetly have to adjust your driving a bit and you have the bear in mind that the car might decide it is too close when manouvering at speed around other cars but I find ACC brilliant and I would never go back to normal cruise control. The added benefit of having the manouvre braking is also a fantastic addition for those 1 in a million times you have a lapse in concentration. Can you imagine how many times a car gets reversed into every day in the UK that this feature would prevent if it was implemented on every car. It would save millions.

I was going to say it was such an easy job, and then I realised you're replacing the sidelights not the DLRs I had to replace the ballasts before, now that is a fun job...

@Breezy_Pete >Dashcams plugged into outlets that stay on permanently are notorious for this problem. I have just learned something, then. Believe it or not my Smart Meter contributed to the issue. The meter flashes LEDs every few seconds and I think probably kept triggering the dashcam. Tomorrow I will try to find a fuse that is only on with the ignition, and maybe fit a two-way switch to keep it on if parked in a bad area? Thanks for the input. Andrew

The breeze wasn't my friend this morning in the Hope Valley........ A2 Pacific Blue Peter blasts through Edale with it's first revenue earning train in approx. 22 years after an extensive overhaul.