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One other thing that has been said to "happen" to these 1.0TSI engines is, the variable cam pulley "comes apart" and as it is powered by engine oil pressure, when that assembly comes loose - screws/bolts slacken off it seems, the pressurised engine oil escapes and that could account for the sudden lose of engine oil and drop in engine oil pressure. If that is what has happened, VW Group advise you to stop ASAP when you hear the first noises which should be coming from the cam shaft end of the engine - a good plan in theory, probably not so good in practise! If that is what has happened, you might be able to oil has been escaping from the RHS of the engine.

Very difficult to say without knowing if oil pressure has failed for some reason. Engine can be rebuilt, but labour cost is likely to be fairly high, depending on how much damage has occurred - especially if the reported noise is due to damage caused by lack of lubrication. The red 'Oil Can' warning light should show every time the ignition is switched on - then extinguish almost immediately the engine is started - are you sure that this warning light does not show up? The start up warning light test sequence is critical, anyone driving a vehicle really needs to be aware how important it is to check them every time.

Climate change has happened over the millenia (as can be measured by e.g. CO2 concentrations in rock samples, radio carbon dating of organic samples, etc.) and historical records of e.g. Romans growing Mediterranean grape varieties at Hadrians Wall forts and the Middle Ages mini Ice Age. CO2 levels are not at their highest in Earth's history, during the period of the dinosaurs there is some evidence that CO2 was at around 6% - hence the huge vegetation growth and large vegetarian dinosaurs. What's still debated by some is the relative effects of natural cycles vs human activity.

One thing you can easily check without starting the engine is the current oil level on the dipstick, if it's not too low and you haven't topped it up previously then it's unlikely to have been too low since the last engine oil and filter (you'd hope and they should have mentioned to you if the oil level was too low before the "service"). 57,000km isn't a very low mileage so annual engine oil and filter changes should have been sufficient under normal circumstances. For the warning lights have a look in your 'Owner's Manual' for the car, if you no longer have the very useful paper printed copy you can get a free VWŠkoda pdf copy from their website. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

I get in to trouble with the wife when I do that.....

The nut cover on the locker is different from the normal nut covers. You can tell just by looking. But for me on day one of new car ownership is to remove and wheel locks anyway. Thanks. AG Falco

Over at Eyemouth today with the R3.

The car has arrived! Got to say, I agree with previous comments that it feels more refined and as if Skoda have listened to some of the negatives from the pre facelift. Really happy with the exhaust tone and lack of fake noise. Two negatives I've noticed on the facelift in my opinion, no keyless entry on the rear doors (I did know about this beforehand) and I preferred the alcantara on the dash but certainly do not outweigh the pros. And finally, my car is on the Bridgestones! My pre facelift was on Goodyears which I was impressed with. Hoping the Bridgestones are similar in performance. Overall, very happy 😁

Sculling oars are 9 ft 6 inch... so 2.895m. I'd therefore suggest the answer is yes just about if they can be placed through to the front passenger seat. However, why don't you take one down to your friendly local Skoda dealer and try them?

Fantasy green saloon that would be the holy grail

Well these new beasties EVs. The old nutshells of range and a charging infrastructure not where it should be. I needed to do a mega journey yesterday from Felixstowe back to Worcester. Got to my brothers on Monday using up 60% of my traction battery going from Worcester to Cambridgeshire. He kindly allowed me to use one of his 3 pin sockets, charged it for 12 hours or so, he is on Octopus Cosy tariff so 13p per kWh for much of the night so 90% charge when off to Felixstowe in the morning. Got there is about 66% left. After my day in Felixstowe office headed out of the 200 mile home to Worcester. Got to Cambridge services but the place was a building site around the EV chargers. Looked they were installing additional new rows of chargers and some existing ones were also not working. Drove on. Stopped at Kettering and Corby to use Shell and BP EV chargers, either blocked or simply would not authorize. I hear loads of complaints about these two, as massive companies they should do better but they appear clueless. Only choice was to cruise on to the massive Rugby services where there are 50 or so ultra rapid chargers but it was 12 miles out of my range. Having seen videos that many EVs will drive well beyond zero range and 0% battery I decided to keep going. I know ICE cars can also drive beyond zero miles, did it in my Fabia petrol VRS some 15 miles or so, don't know if there was any pump cavitation damage but al seemed OK. Well the award winning Scenic kept going only giving the "limited performance" warning after 11 miles past zero miles range ie with only 1 mile to go. Rocked up to the Gridserve Ultras Rapid charger, plugged in, presented my Am EX card (TESLA did not accept AM EX when I tried a few weeks ago, what is that about ?). Charge started, ramped up to 130 kWs in seconds. ten minutes later had 30% battery, was still charging at 105 kWs when unplugged but a 79p per kWh was just ketting what I needed plus a margin ie 18 Kw so about £14 charge to get me the 60 miles home, drove quickly as wanted to get home for the footie. So well done Gridserve and the Rugby Services, what a place, well done Scenic. Thumbs down to Cambridge services, BP and Shell, you are a disgrace.

The "debate" on effects of human activity is not conducted with scientific methods. Within the scientific community, where the experts on this matter reside, they have reached consensus: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scientific_consensus_on_climate_change The only topic we, the public, are qualified to have a debate and can be politicised is level of government involvement and ways to meet their climate obligations.

We really do get very very far from 'The truth about electric cars', or Electric road vehicles'. At times we get 'The truth about ICE vehicles and hybrid vehicles'. 'MGUY' videos seem to be about what is in the Media, press releases etc and takes his fancy. As far as The Truth about EV,s, well only as far as he brings up selectively from the media available to him. There are for's and against's and those that have ev,s or not & these videos but persuade some with EV,s to move on from them and might have many more without an EV not to get one. As to Climate change, global warming or Governments and emissions legislation then surely that is a Roadside Hotel type subject as very much a Global subject and as much about Fossil Fuels & Ice vehicles as it is Batteries, generating electricity and then using it. ............... Just a week to go and we will see what Executive Orders Donald Trump signs and what Mandates he can cancel and then what Elon Musk thinks about them. My selected look at published pages about EV,s and from the USA.

Here's one I missed, new Gridserve hub in Inverness

Gridserve continue to expand their sites, Reading services

Kamiq remains second best selling model of Skoda.💪 https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/skoda-auto-delivers-926600-vehicles-to-customers-worldwide-in-2024/

Look carefully for the round behind! 🤔 Thanks AG Falco

Is the pedal, after a press or two, high and solid with the engine off. Then it sinks down low on engine start ? The calipers are installed with the bleed nipple upwards ? Just asking as I've known people install them crossed sides before.

My normal trick for moving long stuff like that is lift the passenger headrest and use the gap between the rods to stop them flying around the inside of the car. I've had 2.4m lengths of timber in a mk2 hatch enough times, so you should be alright.

Yeah, did them both since 1 was bad. Oh, them partnumbers....hmm, front bevelbox use the same, as rear, but there were different partnumbers left right side if I remember correct. 02D 525 596 B/F is for right side (i used Elring 871.180) and I do believe 09A 409 529 B/C is for left side (Elring 877.460). But do checkparts catalogue etka.

Check your master cylinder, most have bleed nipples on them. Bleed the master cylinder as well. While you are at it bleed the front. I was not aware of the bleed nipples and found them with a bleeding problem.

Ooh, I didn't think to check the length of the cord. Like you @SkOmk4, all previous ones used/seen have plenty of wire (and are often tricky to wind back up neatly). I haven't had the pleasure of driving in France, but defo sounds nice if it has all those miles of stress free driving @BazGee. Most of my next trips out with the car are to basketball/football training or matches for the kids,

Also just spotted this topic update from a week or so ago: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497438-has-my-infotainment-broken-or-just-been-reset/#findComment-5909929 Have a look at the last reply

Let's assume that haldex is ok. Then I would check the following that might give similar symptoms: 1. Check the rear ad front flexible discs on the propshaft. (called hardy flexible disc). These are made of rubber inside steel housing and intended to reduce vibration under use. But when they are worn, the rubber will loose from steel frame and cause rattling and/or vibration. 2. Next I would check are the rear differential oil level. If that is low, find the cause. Could be a bad rear diff seal (right and left drive axle). To low on diff oil will destroy your rear diff pretty fast and the solution is to repace whole rear diff. Expensive, very expensive if bought new from dealer. Used are cheaper. If low level, fill up to specs. 3. If oil levels are good and no metallic parts came out after draining and still there is a vibraton humming sound insde cabin during use, well, then I wuld check the bearing races inside the rear diff. But to do that you need do take the whole assebly down and open up the rear diff. It is actually quite easy, but you will need some tools to do it. Well, right/left side has bearings and races. If they are bad, they can be replaced for under 50GBP. If they are bad or worn, well that will make constant humming sounds. Doesn't look like it based on your symptoms though. My guess without inspecting you car would be to check nr 1 and then nr 2. How do I know this? Well yes, you guesed it, I have replaced hardy connection disc, haldex service and inspected the inner races on my rear diff...Its quite a job, but for a serious DYI it is manageable in you own home garage. Just time consuming :-)

How long are they? You can fit items up to 3m long inside an Octavia hatch with no difficulty.

Yeah, my bad Help help help. Maybe it happened to someone. Superb 2014 4x4 haldex system failed - the rear axle started rotating with loud noises and jamming while parking. It happened twice and the system stopped working. After taking it to be checked, the haldex compass was rotten and burnt. The compass was restored, a new pump was replaced. The service was done, the filters were changed. The system works as intended. However, from time to time I notice a "rattling" in the rear reducer but only for a short period of time, like 2s. accelerating quickly. A weaker vibration repeats when switching gears 5 and 6, again briefly as soon as the revs rise to 2k. Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas on where to start checking? Won't there be loose cogs or something after finding the problem?

No I think it was all pretty straightforward. Cables are short and there's the usual 'difficult' connectors but otherwise I don't recall any major issues apart from a slight lack of space to get it out and into the footwell due to ducts and the like.

Thanks. I should have mentioned that it is 1.0 petrol. There was no misfire. The independent mechanic cleared the code but I can't remember what it indicated. The car is used as a spare car and does not need fuelled often (maybe once a month or so) E10.

I did too but after reading people not doing it I tried myself also and no problems. I guess it adapts to 'new environment' just like it has adapted to the dirty gauze. Edit. Also the official skoda service manual does not suggest adaption even after pump replacement.

Thanks Nigel, I've posted in the Karoq forum so hopefully more reply there (should i close this thread?). The Emission Control System sensor light is also on, is this a clue? The oils splats are from me topping up the oil though it wasn't below the level. I checked the oil cap and dip stick and the seal is fine.

The charge lamp is in series with alternator excitatuon wire on Favorit and Felicia. On older cars, alternator wouldn't work if the bulb was burned, Felicia has a bypass resistor, not sure about Favorit. @ozanozten06's issue may indicate faulty regulator, or problem with wiring.

I would expect to get 50 kW Peak at maybe 5 to 10 mins after starting charging and maybe 15-25 % battery charge. I have been charging at never more than 2*oC for near 2 weeks and charger dependent it might peak at 52 kW on a 50 kW charger and sometimes only 35-40 kW. This is an EV, but a small battery. Lets hope others with a new car like yours come along and tell what peak they get and if they do get 50kW. PS. My partner is Hungarian and can not be bothered with the messing about at chargers that i can have. Scotland has Charge Place Scotland administering Council Chargers and some others and there are some pathetic chargers, e-Volt ones, manufactured by a company SWARCO own, and mostly maintained by SWARCO, and then SWARCO run Charge Place Scotland for the Government. So in this set up i think you can imagine that incompetence is just accepted...

Last year we did 11761km, with an average of 3.2 l/100 km (88 mpg) and 8.6 kWh/100 km (which my conversion utility tells me is 288 Miles per Gallon Gas Equivalent, whatever that is). Unfortunately I don’t know how much was using petrol and how much electricity, but most of our daily driving is on electricity. We did a long trip from Milan to the boot of Italy which was using petrol at 5.2 l/100 km (54 mpg).

Plenty just traded in cars because no way at 5 years were they paying the cost given, and a oil & inspection Service, Extended Scope, Brake fluid and probably up-sold Brakes required and AC service. £2,500 sort of money.

Hi, today was another test, below: Starts with 18*C deg inside car temp (not like yesterday 22) 1. Cold start at 4*C deg. 2. Slow drive becouse of traffic, about 20-30 kmph, disntance 3-4 km 3. After 5 km I had 90*C deg on dash gauge 4. Oil 50*C deg, after 5-6 km 5. After leave town, normal road at 80-90 kmph 6. After 10 km I had about 78-81 *C deg oil temp Seems to be ok ?

Si puoi aggiornare senza dubbi. Fatto anche io

I am an avid CAR SOS watcher they often have to repair cranks and bottom end bearings. Fuzz Townsend removes the sump, the sludge in the sump can reveal if the crank bearings have worn away. That might be possible without engine removal. Fingers crossed it’s repairable. Where in the country are you? There is a well respected independent VAG garage in Nottingham C&R it’s run by one of the Admins on the VW and Briskoda Forums, I’ve not used them personally though, but I’ve had very good advice from him thru the forums.

h.l.n.t.r.e.t has a really nice example, but wayyy out of budget😂😂. Few interesting things about his car is the black handles and black roof leading into a black spoiler. Something to consider

If you can find a dealers in stock non edition variant that is still possible

You've just opened a whole new can of worms. Is a source that's funded by a commercial organisation dependent on oil/gas reputable? Is a source that's funded by a commercial organisation dependent on renewal power reputable? Both of those will tend to fund only research that produces the "right answer" for their commercial interests, so some would say any research they fund is NOT independent and hence could be argued not to be "reputable". Truly independently funded research which will report what they found without bias is incredibly hard to find now that most Governments have abolished or drastically cut back on non-commercial funding.

I never tried that function. I had no trust from the begining. Also there are some suspicion, that this function responsible for critical 12V battery drains. I think so the kessy issue is a software bug, maybe will be better within some months (Passats having the same issue).

How it looks, chiselled, stylish and well proportioned. Something you can't say about the new Superb. The fact that you will never run out of space, I've had a full-size bath tub in the car, in fact I can't think of anything that I haven't been able to fit it. The reliability and low running costs. Nothing major has failed and anything that has, has been cheap to replace. Small things like the design of the door handles and the feeling and sound of opening and closing the door. Crucial touch points are spot-on. The faultless ergonomics. I'm looking at EV's and while the screens are seductive the ergonomics are shambolic by comparison. The good visibility. Generous glazing and no blindspots make a parking easy despite the size. The overall economy, refinement and performance of the 1.4 TSI engine. The generous storage space inside the car for all your heart and ends. And the fact that those storage areas have covers unlike some modern cars where there is just a big bin in the centre console so you have to look at your mess! Small things, such as it be easy to change lightbulbs. Most cars this can be a nightmare but in the Skoda it is the job of a few minutes with easy access. There are plenty more but all of the above worries me that any replacement will fall short of the standards set by this really excellent car. A BMW F10 520D preceded the Superb I prefer the Skoda in almost every way.

Thanks for the advice on this everyone. Good to know it’s normal for these type of headlights. Loving the Mark 3 btw having upgraded from our Mark 2 at the weekend.

The skoda-parts.com website shows the following seven OEM part numbers for the 125/70R18 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 space saver spare wheel...which might help searching for one online. 57A601011A 57A601011B 57A601011E 5E0601011C 5E0601011D 5E3601011B 5E3601011L https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e3601011l-spare-wheel-skoda-42126.html

Short Update... I managed to source a glowplug while I was back in the UK for Xmas for £12 incl postage. B&B Components – B&B Components if anyone is interested... They have an eBay & Amazon store front also. I went for the Bosch (GLP194 Duratherm)... Fitting went smoothly & actually the difficult part was popping off the electrical connector. Luckily cylinder 4 is the easiest to access & it came off after being a bit more brave & hard tugging with a pair of pliers. The glowplug itself came out with around 20Nm and a short "crack" on a hot engine. The thread itself & shaft were completely clean which I assume helps. New one greased & installed with 13Nm torque. DTCs cleared & MIL light is now gone & no more fault codes... Will keep an eye on it for a few weeks but I am quite pleased with the outcome.... £25 for glowplug & a big tube of ceramic grease as apposed to 60CHF (~£55) just for the part from Skoda.... I'd guess the fitting would be hundreds. A real Happy start to the New Year for me, Gabbo I found this video also quite useful: (Note: the plugs are exactly the same size although the new one looks a lot bigger in the photo)

All these years later and I still have a thing for Fantasy Green. Currently have: 1.4 8v Estate bought 10/11 years ago and already pictured on this thread. 1.9 SDI which is rough but plods along happily on 185k miles. 1.4 16v Elegance with the AWESOME Mystic Beige interior option! the Elegance is the only Fantasy Green one I’ve come across in 14 years. So what with the fancy interior I had to get it about 4 years ago. It’s been fettled over the last few years and is now in great shape!

We are looking to buy a reaplcement for our Roomster soon too. There is nothing on the market to equal it. The manufacturers have all abandonned functional utility. Everthing is bigger and bulbous with poor internal space. Economy is lost due to the added weight and a load of techno bling that we don't really need. They make engines more efficient and then blow it on weight. I may not stick with Skoda because there is a dominant dealer in the region who has most fo the outlets and I can't deal with them any more. They are thoroughly dishonest in my experience. There is another dealer I could use down in Lincoln but taking a car there for servicing is very inconvenient. I need someone close and hand and honest. Toyota is looking attractive desputre the crap gearboxes. Nothing Stellantis or Ford due to their crap engines. Nissan are just crap cars. Nothing classed and prestige either. I had a Mercedes once and the service costs are just stupid, Think about an oil changer service in 2015 for £585. BMW no chance. I bought one their motorcycles new in 1979 and it had a load of faults which they would not fix. They took it in to dealer and held it for months to run down the clock on the warranty. Horrible company. My son and his wife have a BMW car and it is one expensive bill after another. Does not leave much does it. My wife ran a Honda Accord for years and that was a good car. I bought three new Hyundais in a row. Not great but good for the money when they were budget cars but the warranty was fictional. Everything was not covered. Physically broken anti-roll bar links not covered because they are a characteristic of these cars. FFS I am giving my Roomster to the younger of our two daughters. Her older sister has one of her own already. The younger one has a new baby coming and the Roomster has all the space needed to be a baby bus. It may get her though a couple of years before the cost of maintenance makes it uneconomic.

New addition - winter tyres on Vega wheels. Bought easily and painlessly from the very helpful @aerofurb and swapped over; the car now looks confused between an L&K and Sportline from the outside now. I like them as a solid wheel design for Skoda, a teeny bit lighter than the Trinitys due to less material and a lot easier to clean! Tyres are Kumho Wintercraft which as my first foray into winters will be tested over the coming months as temps start to drop. The wheels are now also the cleanest thing on an otherwise filthy car.

As BlackFriday was still going on and Paypal credit availability, I thought I'd pick up some uprated coil packs. Stuck with Racingline as I'm impressed with their stuff so far. Was looking to replace the spark plugs a little earlier than the 4year benchmark, but to be honest, the impossibility in trying to find a parts provider that can actually tell the difference between CXJA/DNUA/DNFE is mind-boggling. The only place that seemed to do the Bosch plugs for the DNFE engine was Autodoc and they did...then didn't...have them in stock. So I decided to leave them as they were and research uprated ones in the meantime. I don't think this is going to make more power necessarily, more about making sure there are fewest limitations from the remap. Whether they actually make a difference I'm sure will be 80% psychological but, well its done now. For now - it seems like the next items would be uprated intercooler and fast flow cat - both of which are starting to prove the law of diminishing returns by the looks of prices...

See pages 107 - 110 of this workshop manual - available to download here: