Leaderboard

Long day for me today as I went up to Cannock Chase for a day out (424 mile round trip, left at 6:30am, got home at 7pm). My oh my, what a beautiful place. Full of vistas, babbling brooks, and the birds and birdsong were fabulous. I achieved my aim of going to say hello to the tree that inspired Tolkien's Treebeard: And went across the Stepping Stones: But it was just a perfect day, weather wise, and I had a brilliant time. T'was good for the soul! 😎 I'd thoroughly recommend a visit 👍 Gaz

Tonight's walk around local reservoir......

I’d say your gut is telling you something and always best to listen to it. If they can’t prove it did indeed come from a valet or open window then yeah get your money back

A different model, but still indirect TPMS - my Octavia does identify which wheel has triggered the warning - but the wheel ID message disappears very shortly after the warning chime - leaving just the general tyre pressure loss warning message.

Here is the whole answer: The Škoda Scala's TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System), also known as TPM+, uses data from the ABS wheel speed sensors to detect and alert the driver to a drop in tire pressure by monitoring changes in wheel radius, and some models also offer direct TPMS. Here's a more detailed explanation: Indirect TPMS (TPM+): The system uses the ABS wheel speed sensors to monitor the rotational speed of each wheel. It compares the speed of each wheel to determine if there's a change in the tire's radius, which can indicate a drop in pressure. If a tire pressure drop is detected, the system will alert the driver via a warning light on the dashboard. Direct TPMS (Some Models): Some Škoda Scala models may offer a direct TPMS system, which uses sensors mounted directly in the tires. These sensors measure the tire pressure and transmit the data to the car's computer. If a tire pressure drop is detected, the system will alert the driver via a warning light on the dashboard. Recalibration: Once the tire pressures are checked and corrected, the TPMS can be recalibrated through the infotainment system's options menu. Display: The display will indicate pressure for a single person occupancy in the car and also for a fully laden vehicle. If the car is using the ABS sensors I think all you get is a single warning and then you have to play find the tire yourself.

I've done a google search and it appears you might be able to get one............if you live in India!!

It should not use (lose) coolant at all - as I suggested earlier, monitor the coolant level regularly from now on to check if it is losing it. Take it back to garage if it is.

From the post, it reads as if it was the coolant that had the 700ml top up.

Low annual distances travelled (or regular short trips) make regular oil servicing even more important - you should consider planning your servicing on an annual basis.

Has the coolant level fallen since you topped up 700ml? Strongly advise you to monitor both oil and coolant levels more frequently - the oil usage is probably normal given the distance travelled, but the coolant really needs to be kept a very close eye on for some time until you can confirm there is no leakage. Why is there so long between oil services - do you plan one soon? It is a big mistake to simply rely on warning lights instead of doing regular engine checks.

There is no sunroof. Dealer has now agreed to proceed with rejection. I am going to see another Superb tomorrow. Used approved this time!

Are you seriously saying that the oil in your engine has not been checked for 26000 Km? Yes it is normal for an ICE engine to consume a small amount of lubricating oil - but, at that distance, I'd have thought the oil would have been due for a change in any case! For your ghost coolant level warning, did you visually check the coolant level yourself before taking it to the service centre? Was the level below the minimum level marked on the side of the expansion tank?

Some photos are already on my other thread but I may as well introduce the car in the main Picture thread. 2024 2.0TSi DSG L&K in petrol blue with a few options including 19" Vega Aero alloys, Massage Seats and Towbar.

Taking the long way home.

Result!

The Owner's Manual for my UK-specification 2024-built Fabia Mk 4 SE L with 1.0litre motor provides the following advice on Page 121 The fuel tank capacity is approximately 40 litres or 50 litres (depending on vehicle equipment), including a 7 litres reserve. (A 45 litres capacity is widely quoted online, but I believe this relates to Fabia Mk 3 cars.)

Well here we are... I'm finally starting to get things for this that I've been wanting for ages. First up was replacing the godawful soft touch plastic handbrake. It's not in the worst nick, but I didn't like the way it felt compared a proper leather one. Well that's better. I have a few more things coming up next. In the meantime, I gave it a damned good polish for the first time in nearly four years. Much shiny. Just looks absolutely spot on (if you ignore the rust on that door).

The first Woodpecker I've seen this year.....

My moneys on Duck 2 being a mallard.

Skoda Superb IV Plug in hybrid. It has 1.5L, 110kw and 6dsg gearbox

thank you all for the advice and suggestions

We bought a 24 plate Superb from Derek Slack in February. No high pressure sales and our best experience ever. The final hand over was completed by John Holroyd. On the way home from collecting the car we were hit from behind at a junction - not a good start. We let John know and he offered whatever help he could. Every thing was sorted by insurance with the other driver admitting fault. The only issue with the car was we couldn't register as the primary user. John came past our house after work but couldn't get it to work either. It was arranged that he would collect our car and leave his whilst their technicians fixed. The next day he returned the car, all sorted and everything as it should be. Derek Slacks is a family firm and their attitude shows. Ignoring the pun, their service was superb!

Yes. I actually think I did. I'll try again with a 'fresh start'. Thanks for the tip🙂

Re Kodiaq, or any VW Group Engine, 3,4,5,6,8,10 or 12 cylinder , 44kW up , petrol or diesel there thing is to say May use ass much as 0.5 litres oil / 1,000 km (621 miles.) so 1 litre in 1,242, depending on use, more maybe in first 5,000 km. Tosh, but they say it. Alfa Romeo were amazing if just 1 litre in 10,000 km. But then some cars were possibly rusting away before they needed oil.

700 ml of engine oil into a 1.5 TSI ACT that had a Low Engine Oil warning means the oil level is probably low. Best check it as it should be checked. At normal Operating Temperature, so once up to an indicated 90*oC or so, parked on the flat, engine off and after a few minutes. A few is 4 or 5 minutes, like about how long it takes to fill up the fuel tank. A good time to check, even if you need to move away from the fuel pump. Old Skool. When you know where the correct level is checked that way, then check cold and you know where it is before ever starting a trip, if you look. Coolant does not always need to be filled to MAX. There is MIN & MAX, if they wanted there could be a FILL TO THIS LEVEL Line. Coolant sets it,s own level. Going to MIN & and there is an issue.

Now I constantly monitor the oil and water levels, but after the service visit the car sat in the garage more than it was driven.

Do not know about Kodiaq, but Alfa 156 2 litre petrol engine had an oil consumption 1 liter per 10 000 km. Stated in manual.

Someone best tell The Donald (POTUS) that this sort of issue is why the USA vehicles are not imported to many countries around the world. He could have his Best Bud on the case of BEV fires and risks but he needs someone helping him sort out his products. PS. re 60 second delays before a vehicle selecting park. One thing to include in multiple experiments should include open the door. It will select Park, or should.

Major safety software flaw on GM electric vehicles....

You will not know if there are Faults logged until you check, or have someone check.

Yes of course there may be a few, but it is far more likely to be batteries that users have deemed beyond further actual use, and not all of them will be Lithium either, many if not most are more likely to be Nickel-metal hydride from council recycle centres.

Mechanic is being lazy and hasn't heard of penitrating oil aka WD40.

Your Fabia was manufactured on March 29th, 2019: It's equipped with speed limiter only but it has radar installed as it is equipped with forward collision warning - it has options: 6K2 - Forward collision warning incl. autonomous emergency braking, without adaptive cruise control 8T9 - Speed limiter without cruise control system and without adaptive cruise control You car has the same radar as used in cars with adaptive cruise control - part number 5Q0907561K. IMHO Skoda dealer should be able to add cruise control to your car

Because it is the basic TPMS that started for Run Flat tyres and identifying a blow out. Set the 4 tyres at different pressures and set the TPMS, you should not get a Warning unless one corner changes enough in size. Rotation of that wheel / tyre. But it is still not telling you which. But the point is the front and back can be at different pressures, or circumference, or an odd one, the spare put on. More technology on say a Superb will disable the CC or ACC, or cause issues with a tyre too much odd size out.

VW Group had the fuel drinking and AdBlue drinking issue dealt with, they had the defeat device, and even after 2015 defeat devices in the Audi S-tronics / DSG,s. Never dealt with EGR,s though or High Oil users, premature engine failures, 2010 to whenever, like 2025. Re BEV,s, yes a drop to 70% in 8 years / 100,000 miles is way too much. Which are these that are doing that?

With traction batteries and their actual capacity it is semi truths along side other semi truths. When working on a rolling road the measured horsepower was so dire in many case we use to switch the rolling road to display twice the actual reading and then given the owner some bullsh1t on taking account for transmissions losses which an ICE car could be 20% or so ie primary reduction, gearbox, diff etc. Couple that with the 10 or 20% loss in the engine, due to worn piston rings etc and if we showed them that there 140 hp cars, which was actually only putting out around 75 hp, that after our tuning on the Rolling road was producing 150hp, estimated flywheel, they would go away happy and the car would probably feel quicker after our tune so all happy days. The EV is probably not going to lose anywhere near the HP. Also does not suffer anything like the power train loses. The traction battery however, mostly being lithium rather than Lithium Iron Phosphate although that percentage ever increasing, will probably suffer deg in the batter performance. A thousand chargers will take its tool. More so on passive air cooled LEAFs, a little bit on the Active air cooled Zoes and less so on liquid cooled more modern Traction batteries. Maybe Chinese BMSs are a little more using more of the voltage range of Korean/European systems, BYD maybe being one of the better Chinese brands but Bjorn Nyland, after his roast of Toyota just highlighted BYD as having a rather poor ie high range of individual cell temperature difference during high powered recharge resulting in rapid-gating. All Traction batteries on EV have significant margins. Zoe is at least 55 kWh but 52 nominal, Scenic 65 kWh actual but 60 kwh displayed. Drove my scenic 11 miles past zero before it even gave a restricted performance notification and drove on another couple of miles no problem. Manufacturers oft do over the air updates which redefines the battery bottom and top buffers. The Zoe Ze40 is thought to have had over 20% hidden buffer which it could release to maintain vehicle range and avoid warranty calls saying battery had fallen below 75%. The Spring's actually battery SOC is reckoned to be 106% to -9% when it actually stops going ie 15% which equated to 25 miles over it 140 mile range. So what figures do we rely on ? Manufacturers health check ? EBD2 Car Scanner or measuring energy input and output and actual range achieve in ambient/reproducible standard conditions ? EVs, ie lithium batteries do have foibles, they don't like regen when temp is low but then getting 20% extra range due to regen is cool. Hard to run out of range on an EV and fuelling up at home for about 2 pence per mile is great !

Really? How many ICE cars have an eight year engine/gearbox warranty? (EV battery/motor warranties are for the drive train) Once you are out of manufacturer's warranty period you are on your own. If the engine starts using loads of fuel at 7 years old after 70k miles its on the owner to fix that. Holding EVs to a higher standard is an unfair comparison. The battery warranty demonstrates to the customer the manufacturer has faith in the technology. What gives ICE owners confidence in a ten year old car is anecdotal evidence of similar cars working fine until 10 years (or longer). That anecdotal evidence is still building for EVs and the warranties help with that. There are now many examples of 200K+mile Teslas with good batteries, many older Leafs and Zoes with a high percentage of original range available. These are the cars that have been around long enough to 'test' if the long battery / motor warranties are needed. The oldest MEB platform cars are 2020 ID.3s with many reporting over 200K KM on European forums. I think it will take time for trust in older EVs to build up, but it will as more and more people buy second-hand EVs.

How many with BEV cars older than 2017 are claiming on a battery warranty because of energy storage loss? There were cars globally that were bought back because batteries would need replaced. Chevy Bolts. Maybe Nissan Leafs had the issue. Batteries seem just fine on many EV,s a decade old or older. Those were the old tech. There were plenty Taxis / high mileage BEV,s getting Rapid Charging daily and without much battery degragation.

thanks bigade1 dependable as ever!

@Luckypants Thanks for the information bud. Fairly sure they will be looking at new 2025 model. It is funny situation as the last time they visited (late last year) we had, shall we say a little disagreement (me and mum's fella) He was adamant he wouldn't entertain having an EV as the bloke that sold him the CRV told him that the batteries on EV's only last between 3 to 5 years. I told him that was crap and the salesman probably only told him that so that he would purchase the CRV. (The dealership probably didn't have any EV's to sell either). I told him 10 to 12 years ....... He didn't believe me. He has used L-ion battery power tools for a long time now ffs My L-ion Makita is still going after 15 years, albeit a bit tired now. And a quick google search would have put him right if he navigated around the one that was obviously on about the 12v batteries. Good luck to them now though, I'm sure they will love their decision. Thanks again.

Done, just reinstall VCDS and full information in long coding helper.

Mystery Blue covers all blues - doesn't it? Might also be called - Lucky Dip Blue, Random Blue, Variable Blue, Poorly Defined Blue

A pheasant, a Mandarin duck and a different duck were sat at a bar enquiring about their mate. The barman says 'the squirrel? He's not been in yet, lads'

Made a trip to RAF Lakenheath today as they were doing what's known as Quick Climb day, and it was the ideal day to test out my Christmas present from my sons, a lovely 70 to 300mm L series lens for my Canon 7D camera. Lovely clear blue skies, although it was a bit chilly in the shade. Here are some of the shots I took, a vast improvement over the old 70-300mm consume grade lens, call me impressed.

Easy got online but I wouldn't, went down that road and they don't last lmao. Get a pierburg one in a motor factors. I had some real weird driveability problems with cheap ones. Had ones where it wouldn't boost till 3k then shoot off. I think at the minute I'm using one from my parts car.

Can't doubt your details, but need to add full gearbox details I mean that your gearbox is 02S-QVX 6-SPEED (MQ250) https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2016-753/gearbox+id-3/6+speed+manual+transmission+mq250+2016+id-300-300011/ As per details it takes 75W80, 1liter of G 052 527 A2 Same as MQ350 also takes 1L at Octavia, revision While, for example MQ350 at Superb will take mostly 2.15-2.3 liter, some revision 75w80, others 75w90. The confusion for Octavia is it takes all you can imagine, MQ200 250 350, DQ200 250.. plus DQ381 latest )) hence each has to do a bit of datasheet research

Ook, it seema that topic needs some hands on.. So each gearbox has a 3digit specific key after gearbox name. E.g. MQ350 M6F QEY - manual 6 gear FWD (in my case Superb mk3 2016 2.0 tdi 140kw) MQ350 M6A QGN - manual 6 gear AWD (case of Superb mk3 2016 2.0 tdi 110kw 4x4) ..and so on each combination MQ200 MQ250 DQ*** etc.. On each car there's a sticker rear area for reserve wheel/storage box, some times if not there (for cars after 2021) it is on the service book when paper or online. PR-Number plate Big POINT(!) Manual gearbox: - initially for MQ200 MQ250 was no service recommended at all life time - same applied for MQ350, but even so common mechanics recommend change at 100.000km, then later started a recommendation of 60.000-80.000km or 5 years. Something happen(?) still question mark. Maybe because, brake fluid, Stop What? Because it has service for 60.000km, and too less mechanics knows(out of Official Dealer and Bosch Service Centre) that when purging brake oil out with new one, has to respect the norm, plus the sequence for clutch cylinder for manual gearbox and for DSG together with brake cylinders because it use same hydraulic system - after which OBD and ABS adaptation with brake and clutch But what happen? 2015 - 2018 cars with MQ350 from factory received GL 4+ Castrol transmax V 75W80 (!) In 2019 they moved officially to Shell, and most cars get 75W90, and here when people get to idea let replace gearbox oil they put 75W90 instead 75W80 for cars before 2019. Some get bag gear synchronization 2 to 3.other 5 to 6 etc.. So if you get the gearbox with wrong oil, e.g GL5 instead of GL4+ it seems not big deal but is huge risk to get Oxydation on it due to different metal reaction. So is better to get correct original oil without any kind of extra additives unless you lost hours and days studying what and why you need and take the risk. Now some brands names 75W only that's strange as old school they assumed only one type of oil is it 75w80 or 75w90 no body knows ... But Castrol say 75W80 So make sure to identify if the gearbox needs 75W80 then that one must be and nothing else. As said mostly 2015 till 2018 and some mid 2019 depends when car sells.. If gearbox datasheet says 75W90 then that one is, in fact it wont say 75w90 or 80 but it will have a VW part number which can be searched. This mostly after 2019.. depends when build and gearbox Key index. Then next: gearbox differential (front) will take 75W90. As well as Rear Differential when 4x4 AWD will take 75W90 Plus Haldex takes special liquid. So now we know there's cars taking service for manual gearbox with 3 different oils for transmission and others with 2, others with 1 type. When dsg same apply, dsg + 75w90 differentials+ haldex if 4x4. Here specific case combination: kind of 4 oil drain plugs but 3 oil type Gearbox Mq350 m6a 4x4 02q-qgn - 2.15 - 2.3l, 75w80 (castrol transmax manual v - no alternatives if you want car shifting as car not as tractor) - API GL-4+ - vw *G 052 527 A2* - VW G 052 171 - VW G 052 527 - VW G 052 512 - VW G 052 532 - VW G 055 512 - VW G 055 532 + Front differential - 0.9l, 75w90 (original castrol transmax axle long life then Shell both are VW - alternative Ravenol LiquiMoly, Motul, search reviews FOR your car all are unique or believe in economy a bit and pick the one more accessible) - VW G 052 145 A2 - VW G 052 539 A2 - VW G 052 911 A2 <=> Rear differential - 0.93l, 75w90 - VW G 052 145 A2 - VW G 052 539 A2 - VW G 052 911 A2 + Haldex - 0.66 - 0.74 l, special (suggest VW only or top brands again .. as Castrol doesn't sell it to public as it is VW till 2018, then VW is Shell, public sells has Ravenol and guess LiquiMoly) - VW G 052 175 A2 - VW G 055 175 A2 - VW G 060 175 A2 Now let's assume you've followed correct procedure for the oils change with all bolts seal rings cleaning and proper Nm torque all set: - next elevate the 4wheels and slowly run all gears and 4x4 for a while , confirm no cracks etc.. there can't be any, but it will be some with gearbox selecting and haldex pushes - next perform haldex adaptation using proper OBD diagnose - next do adapt manual gearbox selector (fix gearbox service mode under air filter intake, then remove selector springs, then push selector.inside.the car in service mode and hold with 6mm hex, back to gearbox springs push them both on place, back inside remove 6mm holder and leave N, now releas gearbox from service mode outside, attach air intake and test drive) you should have smooth shifting as from factory and when in N there should be no bounce moving, but firmly in the middle. 4x4- extra adaptation for haldex via OBD Dsg- extra adaptation via OBD And extra tipp: MQ350 doesn't love much bad shifting, that means in order shift up while driving you must push RPM bit higher to allow properly be engaged and smooth Now ehen shifting down, if you shift down normally lower speed without braking then shift it down, if you hit the brake then wait for RPM go lower 1300, now press clutch and disengage. (!) If you need to brake extremely hard, emergency brake etc, hit down both pedals together clutch + brake, stop down only then move shift selector to N or else if you continue driving. Believe or not, mine Superb 2016 is 350.000km and shifts as new, 2nd owner from 163.000km .. mq350 02q-qey fwd 2.0 tdi 140kw.. it has the issue with shifting 2to3 and I was able to solve that as ler the guideline. Attention (!) - changing wheel size out of default factory may need proper adaptation to the wheel circumference for speed proper indicator - installing wheel spacers, lower springs also affects all this need adaptation after

USB ports installation This is the plastic we removed from the back side. We need to remove the part that is the ashtray and replace it with the USB base With a plastic tool or a small screwdriver, press the plastic pins (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily.press the plastic sheets (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily. In the opening created, put the plastic with the USBs and make sure it clicks correctly. We connect the brown plug in place and fasten all the plastic to the center console. ΅We are done!!! Now we can enjoy our new USB ports.

Installation: Some plastic parts need to be removed. The right side panel of the central console. The rear plastic (along with the air ducts) of the central console. Looking from below you can see the plug of the front USB ports. It's the red one with the 4 wires. It must be removed to make the new wiring. It's a bit difficult because of the limited space. A small tool with a turned nose that I had helped me a lot. If someone doesn't have it, he can make something similar with a thick wire. With this tool one can press the plug button to unclip and come out. Time to wire. We need to run the new wiring through the center console and bring it to the back. A plastic fish tape wire puller helped me with this. Then we connect our new wiring to the red plug, arrange the connection (I also put some soft material) so that it does not knock and make noise. The side panel can go into place, we're done with that.

RECALLS are not just SERVICE CAMPAIGNS, & REGISTERED KEEPERS should be receiving the RECALL from the MANUFACTURERS REPRESENTITIVES. That is a letter, not just an attempt at a phone call from someone with not a clue or being told because the car is in at a Dealership. They have to move their back ends when there are Safety Critical issues requiring a 'Recall' even if VW Group persuade a Voluntary Recall is all that is required and not a proper RECALL with all Register Keepers contacted. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/503156-phev-owners-drivers-be-aware-a-recall-might-be-coming-your-way-for-the-car ***** Skoda care about safety so if a Service Campaign / Recall Action has been started & affects your car it should show here.****** https://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions Safety Critical in the UK should be a proper RECALL. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-recalls-and-faults ..................... There is the Engine Cover Service Campaign which again Skoda Service Desk staff can not be bothered to explain or get the knowledge of to explain to drivers / owners. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/504011-safety-recall ............................................. Skoda Dealership Staff & SKODA UK / VW GROUP should be discussing the safety implications, the insurance implications and them providing courtesy cars until they can resolve the SAFETY CRITICAL issue that they need to deal with ASAP. (The engine cover one is fair enough just now, they remove the cover...)