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Messing about with AI. Given my yeti a rocket bunny makeover..🤣

"You're never alone with a clone" :)

That was my car. I traded it for $500 so you have some bargaining power. If it is being sold as is then the DSG needs new clutches. Car has had regular oil changes for everything except haldex which has only been done once at about 150,000ks. As the car has never been used for any off-road adventures the odd time it. Did need extra grip it al worked perfectly. The other main issue with it is that when the timing belt was last changed they must have nicked the seal as it is now leaking oil which had never done before. There is a sticker under the bonnet with the date and mileage for when the belt was changed. Belts were done every 100-120,000ks. Car still drives very well. Everything is original (with the exception of radiators and other front bits) due to a kangaroo incident. Brakes are good recently done. Will most likely need new struts as they have never been changed and the front right one is a bit soft. Also the mount for the rear left needs to be replaced. Motor is excellent. Also no rust that I am aware of and never been submerged.

I am pretty sure that it will be the lack of investment or being slow in updating the grid and not the drive to net zero and more renewables. The failure will very probably have been the same with Nuclear or Gas generated electricity in Spain or Portugal. As is being said by other experts that seem to not excite MYGUY as much as those he picks. If or when the UK,s NATIONAL GRID has a major failing or outage it will be for the same reason. Energy companies are taking huge profits, as is THE NATIONAL GRID,s owners / investers without INVESTING enough in the TRANSMISSION INFRASTRUCTURE.

I now only notice the stop/start when it doesn’t activate (e.g. with cold engine or heavy electrical load). My current and previous 2 cars fitted with it so nearly 200k miles and no issues with it whatsoever (one diesel, two petrol). The cars have manual transmission, so at junctions it’s easy to keep the engine running by keeping my foot on the clutch should I feel the need. The engine always restarts quickly so I’ve never felt the stop/start interfering with my driving. In the early days I thought that the repeated restarting would use more fuel so did some internet searches; found an article on a research paper which reckons that if the engine is off for 7 seconds or more there is a fuel saving as well as reduced emissions. Sadly I have lost the link to that paper. The batteries have held up well. Current car is 4.5 yrs old with 58k miles and I know that my previous car, now 11yrs old with 125+k miles are on their original batteries. Both are petrol.

Spotted our first ducklings of the year this evening and what we think is a Runner Duck?

I agree as well Faulty brakes do not drive even to garage! If you have an accident and you know the brakes are faulty you are very liable. Its also shocking that a dealer would let the car go without resolving the problem and telling you if it fails again bring it back is wrong on so many levels. I would perhaps check to see if theres another dealer near you and if its under waranty contact Skoda direct. It could be a number of things but if the fluid level is ok and no leaks I would suspect a failed brake master cylinder thats allowing fluid past the seals internally. As said get it transported to garage or get them to pick it up if its still under waranty. Alasdair

What mileage is it on? I'd be very surprised if you have issues to do with brake lines, leaks, etc on a car of that age. No matter what the fault codes are, whether they are related to the braking system directly or not, you should not be having issues that severe with braking. Is it still under warranty with Skoda? I agree with what has been said before - brakes to the floor means don't drive it.

After much arguing, I got the banana in. It was fixated on having a banana next to a 1960a Lotus or GT40 but after a few prods got this... With this I humbly suggest I'm better at designing cars than most manufactrers. I'd rather buy this one.

I wonder where designers get all their ideas from... CoPilot draw me a childish picture of a car.... 10min with a free AI and I am a car designer Admittedly it refuses to include a banana for scale

Roomster got appropriated by my partner, and I've just sold the Audi to a workmate. So I've ended up in the hand-me-down 20 year old 209k mile Fabia! 😆 Quite a contrast to the Audi in drive and comfort levels, but someone has to drive it into the ground, and it might as well be me. ...At least until I find a nice Polo, approx 2012-15, 1.2 TSI manual or possibly even DSG if I get brave, in this nice blue colour

I'm going to talk from a purely 4x4 perspective because there are far more knowledgeable people than me to talk about all the other bits on a Yeti 😄. Make sure that when turning tight corners that the backend of the car doesn't feel like it's skipping or jumping. This can be a sign that the Haldex hasn't been serviced or is faulty. Also, if you can find any form of loose surface on your test drive, do a nice aggressive standing start if you can. It's a good way to make sure the 4 wheel drive system actually works and you're not buying a 4 wheel drive car that's been converted to front wheel drive to avoid a costly bill... 😃 Edit: Posted at the same time as the previous owner but I'll leave my post as-is 😃.

This is my first car with it. I don’t really like the NVH impact of the restart but the car was designed and specced for it and my understanding is that it is fine from a wear and tear perspective. I have noticed that it’s quite smart and won’t engage until the battery level is well charged and the oil temperature is up etc.. For most short errands I do it usually never engages. So I tend to leave it on now and if I’m in a situation where it annoys me I have shortcut at the top of the screen to turn it off.

So it will be slightly over on the service. I wouldn't worry about it. Just book it now for when you are back. Thanks. AG Falco

Is it just me or does every new car now seem to have been designed in Minecraft? I used to be able to identify a car in seconds from a flash of one corner or a small part, now...nope I have no idea everything looks the same.

Had to stop off on the way home to snap a shot of the Bluebells...........

I don't see anyone doing this and i'm about to burn out the second subwoofer in a year. They all break the tinsel wire, sooner or later There's 0 for sale on ebay right now so my only solution is to fix the old one or try to find the unobtanium 6" twin coil 8 ohm aftermarket replacement... Did i mention the speaker has a weird bolt pattern? Anyway, here goes nothing. First step, take out the speaker from the box. Easy peasy. Step two, desolder the tinsel wire from both ends. Pain in the rear Step 3, wait for amazon to deliver 30 cars worth of tinsel wire today and hope it's the right thickness. Stay tuned!

My 10 yr old is currently working his way through the entire binky series :) Its a youtube thing i have no issues with him watching unsupervised, unlike so much of the car related dross i have found him watching... hes really enjoying it and he told me 20mins agonhed just seen theres a new episode out 👍

Havent watched either of them. ive just listened to a couple of podcasts that have covered it (in rather hilarious fashion to be honest, along with several other conspiracy theories, just a couple of Those Guys.. who discuss Conspiracies. yeah, im quite sceptical (theres even guide to universe i listen to) but i enjoy listening to stuff from both sides of that fence :)

Im slightly more concerned about the lad that appears to have been Philadelphia-project'ed into the wall of the building.. it appears the AI has been partially trained on Conspiracy theories 🤣🤣

Saw this. Battery Leasing, with recovery included had its plus points but now appears bit of a pain. All the 22, 40 and 50 kwh packs have the same form but must have different wiring, software and a host of other electrical components so if no more 22 or 40 kwh packs all a bit pointless. That said with the 40 kwh pack it is reported there were many dormant cells that could be brought on line to bring the overall capacity back over the warranty replacement threshold.

When in queuing traffic and with the ACC in operation, I find that the radar only stays in operation for approx 10 secs. If the vehicle in front hasn't moved away by then, you can simply reactivate the ACC (radar) by either tapping the gas pedal or activating the ACC stalk again.

Have driven 460 000 km without major problems.

After a few phone calls today Skoda are collecting the car and towing it to a garage for a full inspection and testing. Thank you everyone.

@SKFABM What country are you in?

Hi nta16, thanks for your reply. Yes it was more just an idea of how much it would cost to replace the purge valve. I usually fill til the first click but don't overfill. I have wondered about the fuel cap as it only takes a half turn before it clicks. All previous cars have taken a couple of turns to lock into place. Not sure if this is just usual on this model? I have cleaned it previously and the error codes took longer to come back but may have been coincidence. The codes first appeared a day after filling up and sometimes clear themselves or are cleared with a code reader then return after a few drive cycles. Usually the codes appear separately but on a couple of occasions together.

Glad you got it fixed. The splined bolts on mine were nerve racking to undo as was the hub nut. When they finally came loose with 5 foot scalfolding tube and a loud crack I first thought I broke something. I did the timing belt on my 1.9tdi a few years back and it was fairly straight forward. I bought a cheap locking kit on amazon that did the job. I used a gates belt plus wpump kit. If I remember corectly there are three bolts on the top pully that can be loosened to finely adjust the timing if the locking pins don't quite line up with the new belt. One thing I did find was the amount of crap behind the plastic wheel arch which made me remove other side and clean it out as well. No wonder they start rusting at the bottom of the front wing/door pillar/sill. As for a stuck caliper years ago I would have bought a seal kit etc but now I just get a new one as the prices aren't too bad plus you get a new bleed screw that isn't seized solid. I also remove bleed screw and coat with copper grease for future removal. Couldn't work out how to drain coolant from block before removing wpump. Doesnt seem to be a drain plug on the 1.9bxe or I couldn't find it so be prepared for a bit of coolant spillage. I drained mine from bottom of rad first but I found out that there was still a good bit in block. Alasdair

https://www.politico.eu/article/spain-portugal-power-blackouts-energy-electricity/ https://www.reuters.com/world/europe/what-could-be-behind-iberian-power-outage-2025-04-29/ Blindly push to renewable is good, but it creates unstable grid due to unstable renewables. Pretty obvious. You know what instantly solves any momentary dips in renewable production? Batteries. You know what is infinitely flexible to help with grid peaks and troughs? EV's. (see my earlier post regarding Octopus testing out grid-balancing schemes yesterday and today)

Unless those DTCs are unique to Skoda (unlikely) I don't see any of the three reported having a connection with brake performance. What year is your Fabia? That is a very serious defect, have the brakes been inspected by a competent mechanic? Is the brake fluid level correct? When the brakes do operate correctly, does the pedal feel 'spongy' at all - which feeling then improves if the pedal is pumped?

Yes definitely remove it as @varaderoguy said. Lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when charging. If you want to be really fancy, attach a little bit of rubber hose and tuck away to divert the gases. (AWAY from the engine! and not in a cavity where the gas can collect) Overkill though, there's enough airflow in the engine bay when everything is running that the gases will get vented quickly enough.

It's AI design, there you go keep prodding and eventually you get the same thing -

It's a ventilation hole. Best that is removed.

Yes, that is the case. If you have adaptive cruise control set, it is possible for the car to set off and maintain distance from the car in front too. Very convenient in stop start traffic on a motorway.

Hope you get it sorted.

@wyx087 Is it not enough if you just want to plug in a 3 pin plug extension cable to boil a kettle or run a fridge or lights? The necessity in the UK is a FM radio running on batteries or a wind up one. PS. Edit. Got you. Plugging into the car direct is V2L.

Let's hope you get a good price for your Superb. If it was in the UK and the steering wheel was on the internationally recognised correct side of the car🤭, I'd definitely be interested.

It will be fine ,some people run cars for years and do bugger all to them 👍

Are we talking the cars Service Interval as being on Fixed so @9,400 miles / 372 days. (Skoda dealers will usually put a Service in 10,000 mile Sticker.) Is it running 5w 30 FS III so VW504 00 / 507 00, long life oil? I would not worry on a car already 12 years old if going a bit over 10,000 miles before the Oil & Filter change.

The Haldex VAQ interval used to be 30k/3 years, however is now 20k/2 years. I believe it is the same for Haldex AWD. DSG wise, all of the gearboxes are 40k intervals, with the exception of the DQ200 (n/a) and DQ381, which is 80k. That said, I'm about to do mine at 39k. The haldex wants the fluid doing, and the gauze cleaned out. Some places do it, some don't. The DSG wants the fluid doing, and the filter replaced (Skoda usually don't do the filter, but you want it done). 2019 is the GPF year for all cars. You won't see any difference, unless you're planning on changing the exhaust system for more power (as @travs and I have found out). I've driven a GTI with the DQ250 and my vRS has the DQ381. I think the 381 is the vastly superior box, however I do agree with @nicknorman on the whole. Mine has a TCU tune so is a non issue now, however I did used to find (when accelerating very slowly up a hill) that it would shift into say, 3rd, at 1600rpm and then struggle to go anywhere. That's now fixed, however I can't say if the Superb is any better/worse. That said, it's a very minor issue and certainly nothing you'll really notice if someone doesn't point it out to you IMO. For the Superb I'd say the 381 is the better box - having that 7th ratio keeps it nice and quiet. You're at the top end of torque on the 250, so if you're thinking about tuning or anything like that, then the 381 is the box.

I'd always be kinder to the car, such as trundling around the block/leaving it running with the bonnet open for a few mins after a heavy drive. That said, I'd say this was probably more of a tuned 2.0+ thing, than a 1.4 or whatever. Of more interest is splashing through deep puddles with a hot turbo...

@rit Are you often going flat out on an Autobahn and then coming to a standstill? Even on a scorching summers day in the UK & if you pull off the motorway the turbo will be just fine when you turn the ignition off, or a car with stop /start turns it's self off.

Be warned !! (only joking) You'll almost certainly forget to keep your distance when using the virtual pedal & will curse everything about it...............until you step 18/24ins away from the car! The "prevent being smacked in the face" argument is probably true, but in my experience the boot will stop moving (opening or closing) if it meets any obstruction. Perhaps your car doesn't like your face!!!

VIN not needed, now that I look into it. They've simplified down to just two options. 5J0 971 120 HG if it has just front electric windows. (£120 + VAT at Skoda) 5J0 971 120 HH if it has front and rear. (£138 + VAT) LLL parts will surely be cheaper for either. Currently offering the former at £93 including VAT, somehow: Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HG - LLLParts

Not really. PHEVs have a big buffer of about 30% which is enough to protect battery. I charge mine till 100% with max current daily, I see no noticeable degradation after 4 years.

I have set a departure plan for 12 noon each day which has a maximum charge level of 80%. I don't apply this plan on Saturdays, because I go shopping and have a separate plan which charges to 100% and sets a target temperature for my usual departure time.

£50 off is no where near it either. I reckon its worth £50 for scrap. Try https://www.trents.co.uk/ Might be worth an email as they seem to have a fair range of skoda/vw engines. Meant to add why a new engine? Is yours not repairable? Alasdair

Think have it figured out now. The pooling fluid is diesel. One of the injector fittings isn’t quite holding. Probably need to swap the o rings on the leak off or the high pressure line.

Happy Easter to you all on this glorious Easter Sunday 🐰🐣

With the new ps5's (so new wheels in a new colour with new tyres)

I just realized that the site doesn't let me insert HEIC files into the post so I'm writing the instructions with the images into this one: Remove the plastic cover underneath the module using the pry tool Use the pry tool again to separate the frame and the module to allow the module to pop out. You can gently use the unused buttons to pull the module out with. They might pop out a bit, but shouldn't break. Note that the red connector is on the left side of the module while the black is on the right. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the red connector, and the slimmer one to the black. The connectors look very similar, but there are little plastic keys on the connectors and they should line up with the appropriate connector. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the left side of the module, where the red connector used to sit, and the other slimmer cable to the other connector. Make sure the connections are secure. There is thin wire connecting the 2 cables together, make sure this is not damaged. Carefully slide the extended cables into their original slow and slide the module back into it's place and push until it clips in. Pop back the covering plastic underneath and test out the new Start-Stop disable functionality. By default the module should be set to Reverse mode and it should turn the start-stop system off immediately after starting the engine.