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I have been a Diesel die hard for forty years. So this is to help those on the fence. Thinking there are possibly others I will post my experience here on an ongoing ownership basis. I have a Caravan but it is now stored at the site we always go to anyway (Devon) so towing will not be an issue. Once that decision was made the next step was easy for me. It is based on personal use of the vehicle and what fits my needs best. So what is perfect for me may not apply to many others. The majority of my trips are local so with the diesel i was focusing on towing a caravan a dozen times a year at the best MPG and getting a half decent return of 35mpg round town. Now with the ev i will have a better £pm locally but potentially costing more on the 12 trips to Devon. (I actually think in practice it will still be cheaper because it may work out possible to only use a rapid charger once per trip for about 20 mins each way.) Camp sites are starting to have ev charging on site at reasonable rates? Still trying to find the exact spec of my car. Today i found out acc is an option in the myskoda shop i can buy for £269. So my car must have it but needs a software update to activate it ? I was able to activate a few "free" options that last to the end of the Skoda warranty period.and couple that last 10 years. I assume they become Subscription later. Looks like they are taking tips from Elon. Watch this space.

Yes we have a customer care manager who we are communicating with but she's contradicting herself. Have now emailed ceo/execs.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MfF4R7Jj_lDF7QyKjQwJm6syFkzt5Gr6/view?usp=drivesdk

I looked at a Rubicon about 5yr ago, good fun but my word build quality was some of the worst I've ever seen

The perception is the following: Manufacture is interested only to have limited or no issues during the warranty. After that, the need to sell you again, right? Lower viscosity might be the key to have you engine do not lasting after 5 years or after warranty. Who knows, but I can’t believe 5w30 will damage anything in you engine, especially when from 2 litters you have 270ps with turbo charge and 400 NM of torque. For me, 0w20 is to cover only emissions, nothing more.

Hi All, Great to be on this Skoda forum. I live near The Hague in the Netherlands and am a happy owner of an Octavia 3 1.5 tsi. Bought it second hand in 2022 and it currently has 119000km on it. Have been experiencing some entertainment system issues with CarPlay not connecting since a recent IOS update. I will seek help in the appropriate section of this forum. Cheers. Michiel

Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look up part number of door loom.

Find any detailing or wrapping studio, they’ll cover it

@Rigor with the 0w20 - in the town 110-115 degree. With the 5w30 max that I reached is 103. In the highway, they keep the same 101-103 degree, but with the 5w30 when i slow down, the temp goes down, but with 0w20 remains above 100 degree. @Ootohere why old? The first from 2016 to 2018 with 2.0 tsi 280p.s - 5w30 or 5w40. The second generation from 2018 to 2021 with 2.0 tsi 272p.s - 5w30 or 0w30. The third generation from 2021 to 2024 with 2.0 tsi 280p.s - 0w30. The fourth generation from 2024with 2.0 tsi 265p.s - 0w20. What changed? All of them are identical in terms of mechanics are identical. No visual differences. The diff comes from the GPF/OPF filter, but nothing to the engine itself. 5w30 is also good for DPF/GPF/OPF filters. IMHO, using 5w30 is the best approach if you want to have your engine in perfect condition. p.s with my other car, Octavia 3 with 2.0 tsi 190p.s, with recommended engine oil of 0w20, till now, 90k km on the clock am using 5w30 in every second oil change. The first one with 0w20 in the official dealership, second one in other garage. That was when it was under warranty. Till this day, the engine is in perfect condition. Believe or not, with 5w30 the situation with oil temperature is the same as I described above. Keep at least 10 degrees below than 0w20. p.s.1 am using only AmsOil products like additives, engine oil etc.

A failed ABS wheel speed sensor perhaps?

If they are "ordinary" bulbs then you might need a ballasted LED to keep the system happy. Easy way is to try one at a time.

Fairy liquid as lube is your friend. Also if you have trouble getting the cord into the seal, a biro with the ends taken out to run the cord through helps. Once the screen is in place, plenty of banging on the seal with your hands to make sure it's sitting in tight is the way to go.

After making my last posting on this topic, I went looking for the "stuff" that the youtuber used, and put it on my ebay watch list - then went back to check it closely, it is Liquid Moly's offering for use on injectors and glow plugs - from that intended use I'm guessing that it is a high temperature anti seize paste for use on metal-metal threaded parts so that removing them can be a bit more predictable/possible/easy. So, now I'll remove that from my "might buy for this job" as it might not "agree" with the plastic/rubber contact extension's body and that would be counterproductive next time round. It was Permatex ignition grease that I bought and used, it has now gone into hiding in my "organised" garage - I must sort that out and return it to where it should have been stored - or buy in another small tube of it! Edit:- also showing people how to use a ratchet and/or torque wrench single handed is not being too clever, better if he used a stand for his camera so that proper ways of using tools could be employed.

I'll own up to being a bit stupid/trying to do the right thing, and bought a small tube of a "bespoke" dielectric grease for doing that job (for tuning up ignition systems!) ! My 20 years old tube of "expired by use date" from work, that I use on the front calliper guide bolts would probably done the job just as well. Just one thing, first time round, I "recovered" as much as possible of the grease from the old plug and each extension contact, and re-applied it on the correct areas. That original grease was white in colour - maybe that colouring is added in to improve quality inspection on the assembly line - ie visibility - or maybe something more important, I don't know. I could see me buying tube of that Silverhook silicon grease when my current old tube refuses to part with any more grease, I think Toolstation or Screwfix sell it.

Problem seems to be solved. Thinking the reason of overheating was an air lock in the system after coolant change. Did another bleeding on saturday and right after reaching the temperature I was pressing coolant hoses in many places many times. Right after this I felt warm on the radiator and connected hoses. Drove about 50 km (some in the city and some on a highway with 140km/h) and the indicator still shows 90 degrees. CarScanner shows 95 - 101 degrees on both gauges (max 105 within a while of waiting on traffic lights). Thanks all for your hints and advices.

Thanks again. The vid seemed to make it look harder than it is, but at least for him the coils popped off. If only mine would. Not sure why he put some grease on the end face, it is supposed to be inside where the rubber snout grips the plug body. Getting it hot, then wriggling them seems a good idea, I'll have a go tomorrow. If that does not work, I'll let it cool a fair bit, then try the compressed air. Cold air into a hot aperture might not be clever. Not sure how WD40/GT85 will get under the coil snout, likely to just make a mess. If none of this works, I'll attack with a scalpel, destroy the coil snouts, and bite the bullet with new ones.

@JACK007 You haven't given sufficient detail to say that the broken with is $colour and only that one colour. You need to continuity test the wires to confirm which one(s) are broken. Intermittent faults are exactly that, intermittent. You can't test for them and expect them to stay broken for evermore until they do. Any yes, leaving the windows open will cause the volumetric alarm to activate intermittently.

Started exploring: Aaaaand got back to trying to learn metal forming The only place I have to mount the stretcher and shrinker that makes any sense is where my vise is mounted, my benches are a bit full up with lathes, mills, and drill presses. To do metal work I kind of need to move between the shrinker, stretcher, and vise for various tasks. So unbolting each in turn and re fastening each just to use it for 30 seconds is annoying. With the metal forming tools solidly mounted so I can monkey bar my meagre weight on them they do rapidly put shape into metal though and I was able to make this: In principle this would be a cromulent patch to put in where the water drain has rotted out, but I was over eager and the curve is actually too much and working it backwards adds increasing ripple and ugly to it so I'm going to try again when I can get the tooling adequately mounted some place.

Just for fun, I asked Grok AI to come up with some CO2 stats. First, I asked "what percentage of the atmosphere is CO2?" Then I asked "What percentage of atmospheric CO2 is produced by human activity? Give two answers, one as percentage of total co2 and one as percentage of atmosphere." Finally I asked "Of that 34.6% of total atmospheric CO2 what percentage does the UK produce? Give three answers. One, answer as a percentage of the human-made CO2 (the 34.6% of atmospheric CO2 you told me about). Two, the UK CO2 production percentage as a percentage of total global CO2, and also the UK CO2 production percentage as a percentage of total atmosphere." Even if the UK achieves net-zero, that will still leave 99.9908% of global CO2 remaining. (Note, that 99.9908% remaining CO2 still only comprises less than 0.05% of the earth's atmospheric gases.) If someone would be so good as to tell me how reducing global CO2 by 0.0092% will improve the climate, please tell me what impact it will have and show the data used to come to that improvement?

If you pop the bonnet there'll be a sticker saying something like R1234yf... Which is the refrigerant type

DCC sits 10mm lower than standard suspension. Sportline sits 15mm lower than standard. We haven't been able to determine if there is a difference between Sportline DCC shocks and non-Sportline DCC shocks.

Just a further 2p from me. Fabric interior - bit more of a pain than leather, but when not cooled, I think it's much better. My vRS is the first car I've had that isn't leather and I wouldn't go back. Having a wet vac does wonders. DCC - YMMV. My Occy doesn't have it, but my mums 1.0 Ibiza FR does, weirdly. I can't say I notice much difference, but that may be down to the car. Not sure about them going any quicker, but they are significantly more expensive to replace. VAG pan roofs can be quite a pain - leaking is very common from the drains if they aren't cleaned regularly. Boot struts +1 - my vRS struts failed after a few months. Having felt the weight of the hatch lid when replacing them, I'm not suprised. The power assist ones also (according to this forum) have a high fail rate too. Gearbox - I've driven the DQ381 box in my car and a DQ250 in a GTI. I found the DQ381 to be the slightly tighter box (possibly as the ratios are shorter) and the extra 7th gear is nice for motorways. There were some gripes with it, but it's tuned now and is perfect. I also find that the gearboxes vary hugely from car to car. The DQ200 in the aforementioned Ibiza FR is fantastic - it's the reason I ditched the idea of a manual Cupra 280/GTI and got my DSG vRS. That said, I've driven the same box in a few other cars, and it was absolutely awful. Does the Superb have different mapping/setup to the vRS and others? Maybe. MPG wise, while I can't comment on the specifics of the previous commenters car, I can say that I do believe GPF cars have poorer economy when they are cold. Certainly, when in traffic over winter, I struggled to see double digits in my mapped vRS. Recently however, when doing a very long (30 miles) stretch of 50mph average speed, the car apparently clocked 50mpg. Not sure how much I believe it, but the car was still running 350bhp then, and that's not bad.

smelly old seatbelts drying in the sun: obligatory forbidden juice: NUTSERTS NUTSERTS!!!!! I've wanted a go on these for AGES, and wow they're very very easy to use I might be in love. Grinding off the backs of the old snapped studs and twisting them out with mole grips was a CHORE. Also jamming a 12mm drill bit through this was about the limits of my drill press. I think I need to get a drill sharpening machine :/ Other things I had to learn, sanding belts have a direction to run in because of the seam, lol... it went FLYING!

Initially on my Type C drive of 128GB , I had 1 NTFS drive and 1 FAT32 drive. I had copied firmware folder "MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800" in FAT32 partition. This had 2 sub foders Data and Meta. With this arrangement it was failing. So I deleted all other partition, free disk space and kept only 1 partion of exFAT and copied folder "MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800" on it. Then i switched off ignition of car and then switched on. Then plugged in my type c device and it worked.

Love them wheels!!!

We finally had a week of dry spell, so I got round to washing the good old Superb. I also treated her to a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. That's at least + 20hp in street cred. l

XK120 up at Beachy Head this morning: Quite the stunner! 😎 Gaz

Very late to the game but finally got around to fitting a USB socket to my Superb. Got the part off a well known Chinese supplier for just over $8. It came with a loom that plugs into the existing front 12v lighter socket (at the rear of it) the existing loom then plugs into the new loom to maintain the 12v socket and a USB port just slots into one of the blank spaces. Works great and took minutes to fit by removing the side carpet panels.

Roomster got appropriated by my partner, and I've just sold the Audi to a workmate. So I've ended up in the hand-me-down 20 year old 209k mile Fabia! 😆 Quite a contrast to the Audi in drive and comfort levels, but someone has to drive it into the ground, and it might as well be me. ...At least until I find a nice Polo, approx 2012-15, 1.2 TSI manual or possibly even DSG if I get brave, in this nice blue colour

Correct. Right shape & size, driving position, easy to drive, reliable, long lasting. In demand.

Saw a small gathering of Ford enthusiasts up at Beachy Head. I was drawn to the Mk1 Fiesta, but then had to admire the time and effort that went into the '71 Mk1 Escort, which was running an ST170 engine on TB's: Chap said it was around the 280bhp mark - it was very, very clean 😎 Gaz

Id go for the 1.0, I work in a garage and it's a lot easier to get good economy. The 1.5 takes around 15-20 minutes before you start to see any decent mpg. I also own a 1.5 too. If the engine is warm the 1.5 is fine but if you don't need the extra power 1.0 is also fine 🤣 the 1.5 is also very nippy tbh, feels better than my 1.5 up to motorway speeds.

Didn't get a pic but was passed the street by an AM [I think] DB11 or Vanquish. It was pretty, not old school AM pretty, but sounded like god gargling granite.

Have you checked for a comparative quote from a clutch specialist? Almost certain to be considerably cheaper, as some stealers charge up to £200 an hour. You could also try one of the mobile specialists. 😒 Just noticed that I misread OP, I missed the 'Charged' - read it as Quoted. Clearly too late to get a comparison price. Should have gone to SpecSavers!

Hello. I have octavia facelift model 2.0 tdi in do you now how can I reset service inspection? It is not the same like previus model.

Finally, a good looking cyber truck. Those fake vents on the rear on the wrap just finish it off

What is a flexor ?

Hi all, Experiencing same noise when turning left with my Kodiaq. Found this forum and joined to let you know i replaced gearbox mount and it is now gone. So quick win! €70,= for the mount and a sunny sunday morning on the driveway and fixed it myself. Gr from The Netherlands!

I wouldn't worry too much about a noisy clutch release bearing. My daughter bought her Citigo in April 2017 from a main dealer with just under 50k on it and one owner. It was noisy then and it's still noisy now, but it doesn't affect the running at all.

There's nothing actually wrong with it! It's a budget car, and it'll be fine.

Do you have the correct BCM? If not, that’ll need changing too. 5Q0937084CG or DD is good along with some others but 084CF is no good. If you have Pin 29 on connector C you are good. Floor lights are a must too IMO.

BSB Crash in Supersport race at Oulton Park today - best wishes for all those involved riders, families and teams.... Remainder of days racing abandoned. Sad start for BSB seasons as last race of 2024 at BH was one of the best I have seen in 50 years. The SunRace abandoned after 'severe & catastrophic' crash saw 11...THE opening round of the British Superbikes Championship has been abandoned after a horror 11-bike crash. One bike caught fire after the terrifying pile-up at the start of the Supersport Feature su…

Two dead and one seriously injured sadly. Think the Marshall knew it was bad just after the high side and t boning. Such brave individuals to take up the sport and so sadly paid the ultimate price for these super brave young men.