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Yes... Got here late Monday night and collected a very base model Seat Ibiza in white. It's clearly had a few bumps and repairs but drives very well with about 44k km on it and is fine for the narrow, almost one lane coast road down the east of the island that leads to our villa. It also seems to cope ok with the driveway up to the villa which is very steep (the info they sent us beforehand recommends 1st gear and A/C off and they weren't kidding). Having arrived in the dark it was a bit of a 'wow moment ' to wake up to the view below though...

Well, that didn't go to plan. Just picked the car up from the dealer after its service - complete with a fresh 6-inch scrape on the passenger side corner of the rear bumper (right down to the black plastic). To say I'm angry and extremely upset is an understatement. While they didn't admit fault, the owner of the dealership, when confronted with it immediately said they would have it repaired at their expense without any argument or hesitation. It's going back in a couple of weeks to have that work done. This is why doing a walkaround of the car with a staff member before and after to agree on pre-existing issues, which thankfully i did, is so important.

Agree - brilliant forum. Was on it back in 2009/2013 when I had my Fabia VRs and when I came back to the brand this was the first place I needed to come to. Simple as.

As others have said, for all the reasons to leave, the update is certainly a weird one. I find SEATCupra, VWvortex and the rest quite difficult to navigate, in contrast to Briskoda. People here are very active and, with the exception of a few, very friendly, helpful and supportive. Certainly, there is a wealth of information, going back to the mid 00s. All I'll say is, the UP! site has under 100k replies in total. On Briskoda, the Octavia section alone has 1,300,000. People vote with their feet. At least Mr Happy is their problem now - good riddance. FWIW, I think @Dean, @ColinD and the others do a fantastic job.

Yeah... still can't get over that view... Apparently the coast and this side of the first hills is mainland Greece and those behind are Albania... And yep the Ibiza is sound... The only issue has been getting my phone holder on the vents so I can use Sygic to navigate without a huge sky reflection on the phone screen. First world problems eh?

We are not forbidden from anything in this Free World, we are not in the USA are we. VW Group can say what they want, some need to put on Big Boy / Girl pants and decide what they do with their property... So back in 2010 Toyota went to 0w 30 FS III because the new Euro 5 cars were not getting their published economy with the 5w 30 FS III that they had when launched. Car drivers driving real roads not on a Rolling Road in a temperature controlled building, they were in many vehicles not even getting near the expected efficiency ignoring the kidology figures. I always recommend 5w 40 FS non long life with Twincharger 1.4 TSI,s because of experience of them running at a lower temp and reducing oil use with excessive oil users. & less detergents as already bore wash is an issue and the prescribed Super Unleaded already has enough detergent. But, if the Recommended Oil does actually reduce fuel consumption real world then the added oil costs might not matter. As to real world, there are many regions and climates and conditions cars / engines are used in. As to that UK conditions, nothing extreme really right from the furthest North to the furthest south.

This is one I'm not sure is warranted. The idea is to reduce congestion, which EVs do not do. The ULEZ charges are about reducing pollution, so reductions there are fair enough. It won't affect me, just expressing my opinion that it's not 'fair' EVs get a reduction when they are part of the congestion issue.

-> Memory module for Start-Stop button -> Permanently Disable Stop/Start

links in head post have been updated

Yeah i know but i keep forgetting and the dam engine shuts off when i least expect it. Drives me mad.

Just over four years ago I moved from a 2014 1.4TSI Mk2 Superb hatch/twindoor to a 2020 Octavia Estate Mk4 1.5TSI. Both manual 'box cars. For space & size, the rear legroom is notably less in the Octavia whereas the rear headroom is better. Having said that, there is still room for a 6 footer behind me and I'm 6' 4" tall. The boot is a similar size, perhaps a tad smaller in the Octavia but the difference is not significant (to me, and I usually end up with a full boot on long trips!). Comfort is a very subjective thing. The ride in the Superb I reckon was a tad better, the longer wheelbase reducing the impact of bumps and undulations in the road. The recommeded tyre pressures are notably higher for the Octavia (presumably for fuel efficiency and WLTP reasons) so it is a little harsh at times but never feels an issue. Are there better ride and handling cars out there? Yes! Is the Octavia good enough? Yes! As always, larger wheels, lower profile tyres equals a more harsh ride; mine is on 17" wheels with 205/55 tyres; it is fine. Reliability. Mechanically, faultless. The car is now a tad shy of 60k miles (bought it at 2.5k) and it's been absolutely fine. Infotainment System is a different story. Mine being a 2020 build suffered pretty much all of the early faults. The good news is that mine is working very well now, just the very occasional niggle but the last was so long ago I can't remember what or when it was - and I'm not even on the latest s/w version for the pre-facelift models. Current, FaceLift, models have a different Infotainment System to that fitted in pre-FL cars; alas, I can't comment on its reliability. Sorry, but I have no idea what type of timing belt the 1.5TSI has; and I understand there has been a revision to it since mine was built anyway. Performance. Again, a subjective topic, but for me it is more than adequate. Take it beyond about 2800RPM and it comes alive, but to be honest I rarely need to take it above 3500RPM anyway. At lower revs. (1500-2000) its doesn't pull as well as my old 1.4 Superb (non ACT, 125PS version - NOT the 150PS ACT version) but again, most of the time it is adequate. I just don't bother with 5th or 6th at 30mph. Fuel Economy. I'm one of those folk who records fuel and mileage in a spreadsheet 🙄 but it does come in handy from time to time 👌. The Octavia is about 14% more fuel efficient. Over 55k miles the Superb averaged 48.9mpg compared to similar distance in the Octavia at 55.2mpg. On long motorway journeys at the legal limit and a full load I often get 63+mpg out of the Octavia. I understand that the 1.5 e-Tec (MHEV) DSG versions are slightly better than my version.

While everyone’s entitled to their opinion, I think the way one has chosen to express it is unnecessarily derogatory. It’s one thing to prefer another website, totally fair, we all have our preferences. However, t’s another thing entirely to come into this community and trash the site in such a dismissive way. If the roles were reversed, I’m sure VerticalScope the owner of the site you prefer would be thrilled to know one of their members was out publicly belittling other communities online. That kind of behavior reflects more on the individual than on any platform they’re talking about. There’s always room for improvement in any community, and thoughtful, constructive criticism is always welcome. But this kind of negativity doesn’t build anything, it just tears down. If you’ve got suggestions, let’s hear them. If not, maybe consider the kind of energy you’re bringing into the space. We’re all here to make things better, not bitter. Enjoy your site, and don’t let the door hit you backside on the way out…

POA has pros and cons of use, similar or same things can be achieved by different blends, as always a good oil is a good. Unless VW have made (another) balls-up or compromise with their engines I'm not sure using a "thinner" or "thicker" oil would show up much in the short to medium term, oil analyst might perhaps show different wear on different bits or to different extent. For other than cold starts perhaps a thin for its 20 range 0w-20 compared to a thick for its 30 range 0w30 oil might show more differences and effect in use, whether enough to make any real odds other than a very small difference in emission and fuel consumption only use and time might tell. Judging by past experience I don't think VW would rush to let their Dealerships and their staff, let alone customers, know of any problems relating to certain engines or generally whether related to oil weight range or not but as they don't make the oils (or coolants or batteries) themselves I'm sure they'd be happy to use them as a scapegoat (again?).

Just for info- My Daughter's car does have the speed limiter and front assist and the BCM on hers is part number 6C0 937 089 C. I plugged in my VCDS to find that part number otherwise it should be stamped on the physical part but you would have to remove it from behind the dash.

I’m actually chill about it. I think about what a professional would charge to do this job and this is my first ever go. It’s totally fixable and all under the scuttle anyway. Keeping water out and not being rusty is all we really care about. Thanks for the kind words.

What a lot of a song and dance over oil for Road Cars in the UK not doing Track days or RWYB 1/4 miles. Not highly tuned just maybe a stage 1 map. Its just a 'puppet' or just a car that might occasionally get booted to do more than half the speed it can for a short periods of time in a UK Climate.

Why not put 5w30 in it then same as the golf r runs ,which is hot hatch rather than a warm family hatch .

Bump for @MeteorOcty

My 2019 Surperb fitted with the 1.5 Tsi engine.The service history states the car has used the 0W20 from its first engine oil change at 250 miles. When I collected the car the Skoda dealership serviced the car prior to collection and filled the engine with 5W30 oil at the request of Skoda. On the next service the engine oil used to service the car was filled with 0W20. The car is on the annual service plan but uses the LL oil specification.The car has used no oil in 4000 miles.However , please be aware that my driving style is moderate so no Italian tune ups etc etc but I sit in the nearside lane of the motorway at 70 mph. Please bear with me but I use Shell V power petrol to hopefully keep the engine internal parts clean. When I collected the car the master technician said we would love to service your car but if you go another service centre make sure the correct engine oil is used.Any problems with the engine normally happens when the incorrect engine oil is used.

You allready know the reccomended oil for the 245 is 0w20 as discussed in a previous thread today so why go against the reccomended vw stuff ,the 220 and the 230 ran 5w30 the 245 ran 0w20 to pass emmisions .

It's annoying, I have 5 Absolute Radio stations line up as presets (70's to 00's), looks crap with no logos! If you do a search on their site they do already have all the logos too https://www.phonostar.de/radio/radiosender/alle/liste?utf8=%E2%9C%93&sort_by=relevancy&keyword=absolute . It's the same for the Heart stations

The 220 and the 230 run 5w30 the 245 was put on 0w20 to pass emission rules.

No sorry they've gone a while ago and I forgot to update this.

Flagging for this to be moved to Octavia MK2 section to Admin.....

I can’t remember the exact BCM part numbers that support it, I’ll have to try dig for them, but generally if the vehicle already had a speed limiter and has front assist, it’ll support it. Really though, The skoda dealer should’ve checked this…

Skoda are ordering me a new code for £20. They will try it tomorrow when it comes. Annoyed that the part I bought from e-bay as new, clearly wasn't new.

Maybe I'm missing the point here. In order to move the selector out of P in my car, the engine has to be running. I'm sure the engine will start in N, however in order to get there you would need to first start it in P (hence my point about it cutting out if I take it out of P too quickly when starting). It won't even let you take the key out if you aren't in P. Thus, whether it starts in N or not, is a rather moot point. The only time I've started it in N is when it was in neutral in a traffic jam with start/stop and the engine and to be started manually. None of the cars I've driven have allowed the selector to be taken out of P, until the engine was running. This includes a 2014 A3, 2024 Leon, 2024 Arona, 2020 vRS, 2022 Ibiza, 2019 Golf, 2012 Passat, 2020 Passat and a 2017 T130. To the second part - I fear I was misunderstood. In my first reply, I mentioned about VW taking obvious steps to ensure the DSG gearbox would last a while, with the average person behind the wheel. With a DQ381 car, it is likely a bit performance-ish, meaning maintenance and the like is perhaps more likely to be focused on. The DQ200 is fitted to normal cars, for most people that want to just get in and go. In other words, I would assume that VW have thought of this, and taken into consideration that the majority of people in a Scala. Kamiq, Fabia, Polo, Golf, Ibiza, Leon, Arona, Karoq, Ateca, etc etc aren't going to care about whether the car is in D or N, as long as it goes. By contrast, more people that have GTI/R/S3/vRS are more likely to care about that sort of thing. I'm not saying all DQ200 owners don't care, or that all people in a DQ381/250 care, but I would say is it simply more likely. VW aren't going to design a gearbox that has to be treated specially, in an average passenger car. Maybe in an RS6 with a ZF box they will, but for the most part I argue the D/N discussion is a totally moot point in such a widely produced average consumer gearbox.

RAVENOL VMP SAE 5W-30 True PAO oil, 5W30, ACEA C3 and with Audi Motorsport "accept" in bonus hehe. And with official VAG accept 50400/50700 +quote from internet: ACEA C3 and C5 oils both fall under the "mid-SAPS" category, meaning they have a reduced level of ash content compared to conventional oils. However, C5 oils are designed for more fuel economy and have a lower HTHS (High-Temperature/High-Shear) viscosity compared to C3 oils. This translates to thinner oil under pressure, which can improve fuel economy but might require more careful consideration in certain high-performance engines.

2.0 tdi crlb engine and the battery is fairly new

I cannot guarantee it and have no experience since always used 504.00/507.00 5W30 oil.But it's normal that turning for "waterly-econo-oils" no "normal ones" reduce oil consumption. Plenty info about this can be found in Japanese cars forums (as those cars often reccomends 0w20 or smth like that).

+1 for 5W30 or 0W30 (and, as bonus, You'll get a little less oil consumption too).

When I went to my dealer for the job, I paid for stalk + coding altogether. Unfortunately, they fitted a faulty stalk which made my high beams not work, but they refused to accept this and put it down to incompatibility. I fitted my own stalk and everything worked fine, they refunded me and apologised that my “vehicle isn’t compatible”. As long as your BCM supports CC, you could order a new product yourself for them to fit. Part Number I used was 5E0 054 800

Still waiting for ours, how long did you wait for yours? What colour did you pick? Photo maybe 🤔

It depends on the mod to fool the battery charging level, @Bap33 . There's a mod where a sensor is physically disconnected, which is the mod I was thinking of. @MikkyTee wasn't specific about which mod he was referring to and didn't mention VCDS, so I feel my note of caution about the simple bodge solution was appropriate. If Mikky intends to use VCDS to tells the CPU that the battery isn't in a condition suitable for S/S, then assuming that changed voltage reference is ONLY used to permit/inhibit S/S, then that sounds fine to me. 👍

Interestingly, I saw a YouTube short about this on a Skoda Rapid. Seemed to suggest it is the stalk and the connectors within it. A quick squirt of contact cleaner resolved the issue, at least in the short term. If it keeps happening, i will give it a try, although I'm still under approved used warranty, soI may ask them to check it out

In terms of the formatting I never found NTFS to work well when I was setting up my usb stick when I had to move from my MK3 to MK4. Most usb chatter on internet state FAT for up to 32gb and exFAT for anything bigger. As a general question. Have you set the Meta data clean and correct for every single music file? I use MP3tag to make sure each track has the right data as the car uses it to index. The key items I make sure are done are Track name - track number followed by track name Album name Artist Track number Genre Add 500x500 max size art to track (instead of album picture in usb folder) This will then allow car to index tracks correctly into the folders Albums Artists Genre Etc I would then access via media folders by going into the album folder and all tracks from folder would play in right order. Or while my voice worked say Play album "Queen's greatest hits" Play song "Free bird" I had loads of issues with the metadata to start with. If it's not correct it sticks loads of tracks together and your issues sound more like metadata problems. P.s. it can only handle 1 instance of say "greatest hits" in album name and groups all albums together no matter artist. So you need to make sure every album name is different Using the above mine works on a 256gb usb on both my Skoda and new VW ID.7 Hope this helps

Nice colour @Bap33 😁👍

I wud check battery and alternator condition first

@SuperB-LK - I switched from VCDS to OBDEleven a long time ago. My ultimate preference is still VCDS, but u can do everything with OBDEleven Pro version. I made the switch cause with VCDS I only had the 3 car license, which was no good for me as I wanted to help others with coding. No such restrictions with OBDEleven. Plus it's way cheaper, and no laptop or cable required. I don't/never use the One Click apps cause u never know wat coding changes is done behind the scenes, with some causing undesired side effects. With OBDEleven Pro version, I can do adaptations and long coding changes, just as I would've with VCDS. Mine was a one off lifetime payment, which they don't offer anymore. Now u have to pay a yearly subscription for Pro or Ultimate.

Likewise

I'm with the courts I don't fully trust VW. 😄 I was actually leaning towards 0w-30 if I was keeping the car, thinking 0w-20 was more of the faintly ridiculous nth degree of saving fuel in an overweight vehicle on oversized wheels and tyres, with often only one or two of the 4/5 seats occupied and offering cars that have so much power and speed. I like you like to drive in a spirited way occasionally which can often be less fuel efficient. And the internal combustion engine is such an ancient technology that for decades more and more systems have been bolted on to it to save less and less fuel, plus I've never had the impression the mainstream VW engines are anywhere near the front of the field for engine development. The 15k-miles for LL use might depend on how that mileage is achieved, nothing really simulates real time, real world use which is how customers help with product testing, certainly for a couple of English car brands I've owned anyway. 😄 But as you rightly put why go off anything anybody tells you particularly on the internet without checking and cross referencing so anyone that goes with VW as the manufacturer of the engine is starting at least from a reasonable point. I'm not a VW fan so biased against them. I'm also not with VWŠkoda for their 6 years / 60K-miles interval foe engine air filter changes, particularly for a diesel that needs all the help it can get to be a bit cleaner. DSG box I know nothing of and keep away from, I was never a fan of it when it come out decades back but I'm sure it's useful for some, dilutes the fun of spirited driving in my way of thinking, good for racetrack stuff no doubt. All that should get my opinions well discount for many here. 😄 Be interesting to see what the 0w-20 engines are like after 10-12 years use, they might still be near pristine and 0w-30 ones recycled.

If I had the room, I would've saved this. I had an admiral blue one which I chucked nearly 100k on. Bought it for £700, with 136k on it. Used it as a work horse. Redone all the door looms, with motors and locks, ripped out interior and wetvac and put it back together. Milltek Exhaust system, vRS alloys. Best of luck with the sale! P.S. If you ever want to sell some stuff separately from the car if it goes to scrap, let me know, as I'll have a few parts off it, I'm not to far away for collection too.

The Superb went in for its second (my first) service this morning. Just got home from dropping it off. Not a major service, just oil & filter, pollen and brake fluid. Big service will be next year's one. Car has done 13,900 in two years (8,400 in the last year since I bought it).

Cross Climate 3's and the 3 Sport are brand new, only announced this week and not on sale yet but seem to be a significant improvement on the current Cross Climate 2 which I have on our Octavia and Fabia. For the 19" Superb wheels I'm interested in the Cross Climate 3 Sport which is an all new concept.

Thanks for your help AG Falco, problem sorted!

No, this is xml file that parametrizes different features. You can NOT load it with VCDS

CTEK are by far the best, used by just about all the large car collection guys and supplied as standard by the likes of Ferrari, McLaren etc. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Battery-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B00FC42HAA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2EC15A9MXKUWT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s-FFMb2ZlvtlGyYKmQPTmtRfDPlhF-UQ266XDw2irrj9yU0iPFtmAFglHT-QhfKRX-P_tUuJ0YVwvqJDiTF-sGK1yUOFW6CsVzz409ZKS3T9HdcxBlmTgjpbcLo6Xyf7ZvgL0LCUJ_Tr71i7CcSUY3g80Hl_4JjaUYHR6A9FEtTZe-f5sPHMFiAtSSD8rE-m-etseX7KnU0Oie7tzJmZOgSTW53ZYsukynQuqhsh4W7BJKPbGSnjCaspQ0-NIpHPxxNCtxBjdUKKcKnq523uZ_tCZefSEX1yC0e13rZL0KY.wTotZJ_St3QKFBbrjwKKH3PpuvqH7AQ-Wm-BsvgN4qc&dib_tag=se&keywords=ctek&qid=1747819824&sprefix=ctek%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-4&th=1 I have the fully automated and APP controlled CTEK CS One. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Maintenance-Technology-Compatible-Motorcycles/dp/B09KS9T7DG/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2EC15A9MXKUWT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s-FFMb2ZlvtlGyYKmQPTmtRfDPlhF-UQ266XDw2irrj9yU0iPFtmAFglHT-QhfKRX-P_tUuJ0YVwvqJDiTF-sGK1yUOFW6CsVzz409ZKS3T9HdcxBlmTgjpbcLo6Xyf7ZvgL0LCUJ_Tr71i7CcSUY3g80Hl_4JjaUYHR6A9FEtTZe-f5sPHMFiAtSSD8rE-m-etseX7KnU0Oie7tzJmZOgSTW53ZYsukynQuqhsh4W7BJKPbGSnjCaspQ0-NIpHPxxNCtxBjdUKKcKnq523uZ_tCZefSEX1yC0e13rZL0KY.wTotZJ_St3QKFBbrjwKKH3PpuvqH7AQ-Wm-BsvgN4qc&dib_tag=se&keywords=ctek&qid=1747819824&sprefix=ctek%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.0fa28f01-6fca-4422-af4e-d52d5ad71bfe&th=1

Unfortunately that will not make any difference - as suggested above, get the battery tested first. I assume this 'shuddering' is while engine is running in gear - not while shutting down?

No need to even drive the car to clear the errors simply start the engine slowly turn the steering lock to lock back to centre with the steering ignition off ignition on sorted Spot on with the battery adaptations being required though