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Repair , if your happy with car and like it and that damage is only cosmetic Go for it as it’s only an uneconomic to repair write off nothing else Don’t scrap it for just that if it’s mechanically sound and road worthy With just the mirror replaced

I had the timing belt replaced by my local independant out in the sticks West Cork, Ireland with mileage 70,000 on the clock. The bill was 500 euro. 200 euro for the kit and 200 for the labour (4 hours) plus tax etc. Skoda parts used. No water pump as that was replaced not long ago. This has been redesigned I understand after so many failures of the original. Recall from Skode?? Of course not. I could not get the timing kit for much less than that price buying aftermarket..... While I was chatting I asked about replacing the DSG fluid as recommended by Skoda. I was told due to our location and driving conditions it was recommended but not as urgent as driving around town. Sitting in traffic with drive engaged was bad for the box and caused the earlier failure. We should be putting in neutral if sitting stationary (and auto start was not used as I assume this would put it in neutral automatically??). There are quite a few Skodas around here so he has experience of the brand. So that is an unbiased view of whether to spend the money or not. The timing belt was in good nick but the peace of mind is worth it.

Spotted this Egret earlier - hadn't realised how massive their feet are! 20250628_200849~2.mp4

Agree on repair. Latest cars are designed for leasing, not owning. Old Fabia is a great owners car - they don't make them like that any longer. As to Electric, I'm interested too but way too many issues at the moment in my opinion.

Hello everyone! My name is Martynas Jasas, I’m from Lithuania 🇱🇹, and I’m very proud to be the owner of a truly rare Škoda – the Octavia vRS WRC Limited Edition #51 of 100. My car was originally delivered to the UAE in 2002. It’s in excellent shape, painted in Candy White, with VIN TMBBJ41U928******, and still has the numbered interior plaque (51/100). I joined Briskoda to connect with other owners of this limited edition model. I’ve read that some of you know about cars like #18 (Slovakia), #28, #32, #42 (Czech Republic) – if you’re out there, I’d love to chat! Let’s preserve the legacy of this unique model together. Best regards, Martynas Jasas 📍 Lithuania

There are always Fabs breaking. Plenty of silver especially Jacob Bell appears to break for a living on Facebook, based East Midlands way. Therefore get genuine used parts instead of pattern. Doors are about £30 these days. All very cheap as there are soo many breaking

The fact you’re already sourcing parts , you know you’re gonna repair it Crack on and keep us posted with the results

This isn’t my DA but it’s similar to this one. They’re excellent.

Hi, The link below may be much more useful than Haynes, and it’s free: Enjoy 😉 !

A wobble on throttle which goes on lift off is usually driveshaft or CV related, could be a bent driveshaft or possibly a balancer ring as I know some DS have balancers

Yes, the range is calculated on the last few miles/journeys; if they are short then consumption will typically be high, so lower range. The most extreme example I have had is filling up before a long journey; 200 miles in to it the range was showing higher than just after I filled up!

Hi, from France. Owner of a 2020 Octavia Mk. 4 Combi, 150 hp (110 kw) TDI with DSG.

Bon Soir! theres a few french memebers around so ye will have to organise a meet up 🤣

There's nothing particularly challenging about the replacement. I think it probably needs doing quite regularly on mk1 Fabias, since the very same thread that you appear to have had trouble with during reassembly is often damaged or destroyed during disassembly. The bolt tends to seize into the alloy thread because of oxidation corrosion of the alloy. Don't know why Haynes omits it. I would have thought it would be in there somewhere. Tech1e's uploaded workshop manuals should cover it. The Chassis pdf I expect here: Skoda say that the two bolts that go into the chassis should be renewed, as well as the horizontal one you're having trouble with.

Probably because the SEL "Edition" is not in their system so computer says no.

Hi, welcome. My wife chose her 2015 Fabia herself. I have no idea of prices but £9k sounds a lot to me. The advert for the car you linked to has gone (hopefully you've not bought it) so I can't see the details so just genera\l info from me on a 2015 Fabia Mk3. Very low annual mileage isn't necessarily a good thing for the whole car. As regards the engine with low annual mileage the annual engine oil & filter changes may be more important than with higher mileage examples but often with low or very low mileage cars this can be missed or done particularly after 3 years old. VWs of which Škoda is one of their brands, need more servicing than other makes so more spent on them and yet VWŠkoda "services" and "maintenance schedules" are quite scant and stretched intervals. The engine oil filter at least I would change more often and that could still be the case for low or very low annual mileage cars as it depends where they're parked up. Very low mileage will mean more frequent 12v battery charging and/or (premature) battery changing otherwise the computers will throw up warnings and issues. The DSG gearbox Ootohere knows about as regards service. Overall they're not bad cars but I'd go with a Honda or Toyota of that age, better built, better engineered, less servicing, maintenance and repairs and generally more reliable. My wife's and others of that period may have the poor quality short life "misting" front dampers ("shock absorbers") plus noise(s) from the underside of the car that can't be found (despite some changing many parts) a very loud clonk in very cold weather (worse than any of the 20-50 year old BL cars I've had) but never mentioned on any MoT). Brakes are fine but the standard fit (VW?) pads and discs aren't particularly long lasting. The original and later Nexen tyres were more for for round town bimbling than country roads. You get various engine bay noises at various times as the computers do their stuff on the to my ears rough sounding VW engine (and I'm used to BL engines from the 1950s) but if your wife like mine has the radio on you won't hear them (possibly need to turn it up in winter if you don't like hearing clonking from the underside). I know friends and neighbours with small Kias and Hyundais from 2015 and before and they have been very satisfied with them and they have been very reliable and inexpensive to keep (VW 3 year warranty IIRC 7 years on Hyundias, shows how much confidence VW had in their products). You bought it, didn't ya. 😄 HTH.

Known as console. Left (UK nearside)or right? Item 2 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts. Those suffix D parts have been superseded by suffix J, not sure why LLL isn't showing that, either OK though. Avoid any aftermarket versions that might have the early/original style rear bush fitted, with single rubber webs top and bottom, they're junk. Be careful when fitting, the holes that the vertical bolts go up through into the chassis have a 5mm clearance, designed to allow for a little alignment setting during factory assembly. You should try to ensure the car isn't subtly twisted during fitment (such as by just jacking up one front corner), as this might cause things to end up in a different spot and alignment compromised.

Seems to be a swell to stop/de-incentivise EVs charging around tea time ie 1630 to around 2000 hours. As with the Octopus Cosy tariff for Heat Pump the fix seems simple to me. We EV drivers are happy to benefit from our 7p / 8.5p cheap tariff in the early mornings and I think most of us would be OK with say 40p per kwh at the peak tea time period especially if me get a bit of a discount for the normal day time period. Maybe a drop to 25 or 24p for 6am to 1600 as well as 2000 to 2359. If it stops dirty gas etc peaker plants firing up at tea time I am all for it and will work around the expensive peak time. Surprised it has not been put out there and applied already. If one needs a bit of charge at peak time then will have to pay the premium, drive slower or find another way from A to B.

Totally agree on the maths but the Con and Labour government both feared putting tax on diesel and petrol as it is such a vote loser. What UK should do is adopt an adaptive daily or weekly change in Excise duties so the tax per litre ie excise plus VAT for those that pay retail. When oil is cheap add a but more excise and back it off when crude is high cost. It would mean government gets its circa 80p a litre no matter what the price of crude is. I think Belgium and a few other countries do this. Smart taxation IMO. Businesses might complain but would perhaps prompt a bit more and quicker transition to EV on heavy goods vehicles which seem to be lagging cars and vans.

I've requested a payment from them to cover the difference in cost which I've tracked using their app. They have 14 days before I take it to court.

I bought a 152,000 miler 2016 Skoda Superb Executive Greenline from a (really nice) private seller for £3800 earlier this year. It had service history, including timing belt change in 2022 and oil changes at Skoda's recommended intervals. The test drive revealed that the aircon wasn't working and that it would benefit from a new set of tyres. The aircon cost £1000 at a local garage with the right aircon tools, for a new condenser plus regassing (I won't be using that garage again, as they're too expensive). Plus £120 to get the adaptive cruise control recalibrated. I replaced all 4 filters plus the oil myself. And will be sticking to an oil change interval of every 8,000 miles from now on. I removed the silica teabag from the coolant header tank (with the help of some large circlip pliers), as these can split and block up cabin heater elements with silica beads. I'll get the coolant changed at the next cambelt service. And got 4 new Goodyear energy saving tyres (from a local place that aren't the cheapest but they spend about 20 minutes per tyre cleaning alloy rims to minimise the chances of leaks). And got the wheels re-aligned at my local alignment specialist for £80. And I bought a pre-owned spare wheel for £25 (Greenlines don't come with a spare wheel as standard. And no sunroofs on Greenlines). I put Wynns anti-crystal additive into my AdBlue tank. Other 2016 to 2017 diesel Superbs don't have AdBlue (Hooray!!). Easy way to tell if a Skoda has the AdBlue system is to open the fuel flap. My Greenline is a "Grandad" car to drive, as my wife puts it. She drives our 2010 BMW 330D. I've done 6,000 miles in mine. Averaging over 50 mpg for local trips. And over 60 mpg for motorway trips, driving at the speed limit (an indicated 73 to 74 mph on the car) when safe to do so. The 2.0 TDi's have more performance at the expense of worse fuel economy. I test drove a few other Greenlines plus a 1.6 TDi S. The S models don't have cruise control as standard. I wouldn't buy a car without cruise control. I liked alcantara seats as much as I liked leather. They're both a good option. My particular car comes with vented and heated front seats. I restricted my search to late 2015 to March 2017 examples. For the cheaper road tax. A saving of £175 per year will add up over the course of 5 years. The way my car drives, there's nothing to indicate it has 158,000 miles on it. That's the nature of modern cars. They feel and sound pretty much like new till something breaks or completely wears out on it. When I tested dealer sold cars, they were all embarrassing. They all showed faults when I plugged my (£300 Launch 919) tablet into them. They all gave me the impression that the dealers were just flipping cars whilst doing a barest minimum. Like just cleaning them. Instead of giving them the sort of mini renovation that High Peaks Autos gives his cars. The warranties from the dealers I visited were 3rd party ones. The sort that cover nothing that is likely to go wrong with a car. With get outs like "that's a wear and tear item". Or "that's specifically not covered". This is in stark contrast to the local specialist that I've bought a number of Volvo's from where he'd fix anything that went wrong during the warranty period. For me, the calculated risk of buying privately was well worth it. It seems that the genuinely good used car dealers are few and far between. There are a lot fewer Skoda Superbs on the used market than there are BMW 3 series. So it might take some persistence, patience and discipline before you get the right car in the right condition and the right price. It will probably be a crash or rust that sends my Skoda to the scrapheap. I was pleasantly surprised at how fresh and generally non corroded the underside of my car was, for a 9 year old car. For me it made sense to buy a cheaper higher mileage example. I'll be disappointed if my engine or gearbox fail before 250,000 miles. I think I'll probably need a new clutch in the next 90,000 miles as mine is a bit juddery when moving off when the car's hot. This brochure has useful info on equipment levels and engine options for 2016 Superbs: https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Skoda-Superb-Range-2015-UK-.pdf

I'll stick that in another post.

This is interesting @petrbazant - I spent ages either VCTool, different ELM adapters, DoIP etc trying to get the dataset import export to work on a 2024 (pre FL) Octavia 4. Did you end up having to do anything specific that made it work? I didn’t think it was possible. Are the VCTool parameters the same as datasets? Have you had any luck with the datasets themselves or just the parameters? Hoping to find a flat dataset. Does the tool indicate which dataset is currently active?

I’m not holding my breath, too many broken promises by Skoda around this. Clearly false advertising.

I have a 66 plate 2.0tdi [150] Superb L&K estate. Its got 64k on the clock and every conceivable extra (except heated steering wheel). I 🤬 LOVE this car and despite it not being a brand spanking new car it still gets loads of complements It looks great, it drives phenomenally, it's £20/year tax, no adblue nonsense. It gets great economy and it is pretty quick. I bought it just before it's 2nd birthday, it gets main dealer serviced and filled with premium diesel. Its a refined cruiser but the DCC can ttransform it. Its the the most versatile car I've ever owned for so many things. I'll be absolutely gutted when I come to sell it. But that time is coming. I've got an Enyaq Sportline 85x on order. I'd have passed it onto my missus but her journeys are way shorter than mine and it wouldn't be fair to do that to the car. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND an L&K superb, providing it's been loved.

I would say if your car was produced before mid July you will not be getting the departure planner, going off past information from Skoda I have no reason to believe it will be introduced in July either. I got my Kodiaq mark 2 in September and have given up hope of ever getting it

I eventually located the sticker for the tyres pressures inside the driver's side rear door

+1 I would assume 3/4 of VAG cars on the road have 'a light misting of oil' - it's nothing to worry about. Sure, they aren't fresh, but they still have plenty of life in them. Lowering springs will have a different compression rate, and ideally the shock will need a different rebound rate to suit. Some people don't change them but really, you should.

Might have been a combo effect of being paired with crappy dq200 too not too sure to be honest but I spent almost 40 mins on each and the diesel won. Picking her up next week

Guessing it's the bit closest to the camera giving you the trouble? As long as it's not the actual arm itself, only the sleeve inside the bush that's touching the subframe, that's fine, just knock it in unless it's obviously well over sized. If in doubt, wind the bolt in and out without the arm there to see what it feels like. If you're reusing the original bolt, it'll probably want a good wire-brushing to clean it up. At risk of stating the obvious, leave the outer ball joint (the one that goes in the bottom of the wheel hub carrier) until last.

Ah yes, my parents had that problem on IOG with their Zappi. I remember now when video says the car goes into deep sleep and that it only works for the first intelligent charging session, subsequent charging sessions doesn't work. It's 100% a Renault car problem. After my parents' Megane done a firmware update, it was fixed. Now all works seamlessly. https://support.myenergi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/21802420976657-Troubleshooting-Charge-Delayed-Notification-on-the-Renault-Megane Problem was reported within first month of ownership, I had to get this escalated as a fix or reject problem. The dealership was totally clueless and it took lots of Emails to get them to accept it is a car problem. I even had to do their research and send them the issue ID. Traditional dealers are clueless with EV's. Don't trust anything they say. But end of the day, video guy can always revert to timer based charging even if he's on IOG, off-peak tariff 11:30-5:30. That never failed.

My experience of ECU Testing and their refusal to discuss the diagnosis beyond the cost is that you will never know.

What is it you want to know, I don't know but others here might.

That's put my mind at rest somehat, Rich - thankyou. The rim edges are in such a poor state that I think I'll have to have them refurbished. They spoil the look of the car which is otherwise immaculate.

My instant reaction to that answer would be, why has this suddenly manifested itself, its a 2017 model, 8 years old so how come the software issue has only just become apparent?

The Ceri glass kit already has a rayon pad with it I think - the orange block with the white side to it in gaz’s pic. I only know as I’ve previously bought one separately and it says Rayon down the side. Agree a polisher will make mincemeat out of the effort like a drill driver does instead of a screwdriver. Tbh @Gaz you don’t have to spend big money if you’ll only use it occasionally. The difference between a Flex or Rupes versus, say, a Das 6 is refinement. The latter will bring on fatigue much quicker than the former 2. @numskull was mooting a cheap and cheerful cordless DA with a 1” backing plate to me a while back. Would be absolutely fine for stuff like this I reckon.

I've had two Superb models in the past and they were both just about the best normal cars (ignoring toys!) I've ever owned, saying that a Saab 9000 in the past was up there. However yes they were pretty low down to get in and out, Not quite an issue for us yet but my 87 year old Mum struggled getting in and out of my previous mkII. However once I was in either Superb I found then excellent re accommodating my 6ft4" and large frame, the larger front doors making a huge difference. Unfortunately due to retirement we've ultimately decided to down size to one car between me and Mrs BJ and she finds the Superb toooo big to drive. Driving positions / seats are an individual thing as well - we are all different. I don't like the more sit up and beg driving position of some SUV's but might have no option as we get older! Basically the Superb is er "Superb!"

Fitted the new axle yesterday and all seems fine. I could not find any difference between the one I removed and the replacement. The one I removed was scary rusty and in far worse shape than I thought. Thanks again. If I can find a way to upload photos I will share the horror.

Hi @ColinD The way I see it, the size of the car is irrelevant. The relevant question is, do you need two cars in the household? If the answer is yes (and I suspect it is), the solution here is to keep the car. As you've said, it is a good car in great condition (with some minor and normal wear and tear work in need of doing, so not an issue). Given the money already invested in the car, which you won't recover selling it, you are better off keeping it if there's a need for two vehicles in the house. Replacing with a "smaller" car is unlikely to deliver any meaningful insurance or fuel savings, and you will be less happy driving it. The current generation Fabia is very impressive (arguably the best - and biggest - iteration yet), but it's a small car and rides/handles like one. Fix the Superb, keep it, bask in the warm glow of happiness that comes from driving a car you like being in.

OK, the mechanic has just left me after telling me that there was loads of error messages on the car when he did a scan before leaving yesterday, and I explained which I know he was aware of it, that it was perfectly normal for all kinds of error codes after disconnecting the battery 🙄. Perhaps he was setting the scene for something, I don't know, but once he realized that I was not a dumb clueless person, he agreed to take a look. Turned out that he had indeed trapped wire which was shorting to ground, so everything came off again to get at the wire and repair it, now A/C is once again ice cold. Noise also seems to be gone, but I'll find out for sure in a few minutes as I'm going for little spin to do yet more shopping, fingers crossed.

Striking Sky this evening...........

Ninth month stats from the car May-Jun 237mile @ 4.6m/kwh = 51.52 [email protected] = £14.39 My Mondeo would have averaged 35 mpg for these 237m @£1.327 litre = £40.43 Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 20.45 hours and averaged 12mph.

First reg is a DQ200, gearbox code WGS. Second is a DQ381, code WFQ. Lee wins the gold star for today. The ever-present child in me wants to know if there's a WTF code anything...😁

Hi Teddy, thanks for posting. It used to be a bit easier, as newly signed-up people could send private messages, but that seems to have gone with the recent forum software update. Now you have to make a number of posts before PM'ing becomes possible. I see you managed to track down my email address that lurks in my profile; well done. I'm probably going to become a forum sponsor in the very near future, which will allow me to advertise my services and contact details more obviously. 🙂

It's a support for the handbrake cable. There should be another one on the other side if you want a pattern to look at when you're refitting it

Noticing this thread although there are other places you can ask questions ( and be ignored) one thing Mr Rubbish is missing out is permanence. You ask questions or give answers and they can be sticky or searchable for ages here, in fact hard to keep them off google. I often come back to questions I've asked and find them on cross searches :D Try that with something like FB forums, this is why dedicated sites like this can trump others.

Here's mine - high mileage lava blue 2019 L&K FL from Lithuania.

I'm not sure if you can get replacement sills but if yours is like mine was I couldn't justify a panel for the amount I was putting in. Shifting all that factory rubber stonechip was a messy mission, clouds of burnt rubber! Still, it was OK once done. A lot less rusty than an E46 coupe... 😕

Thanks dude! You're only about 15 mins from me then in Halesowen! The inside of the lip (facing the inside of the car) is fine actually. Which is welcome news! I did have a quick dig there, but it's all good. All the steel is back to shiny and I'll put a touch of rust converter on the odd pitted bit, which there isn't much of. Be time for a dab of filler, seam sealer, stonechip and paint soon. Be nice to see the sill in primer at least.

Hi guys I had to replace the offside front parking light bulb on my wife's Fabia 2 - thought I would share my solution which was to use a pair of wire stripper pliers (see photo). You can slip them under the tabs at the base of the lamp holder (see other pic) - then just pull backwards. I found it best to slide one of the handles behind the piece of bodywork you can see on the right of the bulb. Take care that you don't squeeze tightly or you will crush the holder of course. Hope it helps someone out.