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It's alright, I'm self aware, they're Accelera PHI-R's they're a good price to quality ratio

Ey up, lad. t'skoda is lukin good 👍

Hello I understand my mistake, I didn't mean to spam the forum I wholeheartedly apologize for my mistake. I was just expecting to hear from someone I have no intention to annoy the wonderful people of this group

Doesn't work so well in portrait but in wide-screen it'd be too far away to see it 🤣 A little unnerving being so close as they're spinning I thought.

Hi new member hear from Cambridge, own a skoda fabia vrs 2011 model and enjoying it 😀.

No all you have done is taken one step closer to be banned…

Turns out it was pretty easy to pop out from the back, just the two end clips gave a bit of a fight, but it went pop in the end. I'm pleased with that because I don't want that grill body colour. In other news of things popping out or in: It's practically ready for it's MOT. The rope that came with the rubber was basically useless, it was too thick and took up too much space in the gutter. My neighbour who actually pulled this in had enough decent thickness electrical wire to get it done though. I don't think I would have had the strength to pull that in, I just did the work of leaning on it and giving it a gentle 'bop bop' every once in a while. It feels weirdly cramped inside now, but I'm sure I'll get used to it quickly :P It's just a bit annoying we can't pass tools in and out through the front now :P

Hey! Been finding great answers in this forum for the last year so thought I’d join :) I’ve been running a modified MKI Octavia Estate Laurin and Klement 1.9TDi manual 6 speed for just over a year as my daily and totally fell in love with it! And just found a really nice 2012 MKII vRS, DSG with low miles that I’m planning to do some improvements on this year :)

I recently part exchanged my manual 2023 1 5 TSi SE L (in the free blue) for a new 1.5 TSi DSG Sportline Edition (in Race blue). I've now covered 750 miles and have a few observations. The matrix headlights are truly exceptional and are probably the most impressive feature of the new car. The Auto-dip main beam works well and they are a revelation in darkness. To my ears the Columbus system sounds a little better than the Amundsen in the SE L, although I'm unsure of technical differences (speakers etc) beyond the frustration of loosing the physical knobs from the older unit. The screen is marginally bigger on the Columbus, but in practice it is a little more cumbersome in operation. I'm pleased to see I now have a full complement of auto-dimming mirrors (only the interior and drivers mirror are in a 2023 SE L). The DSG box is certainly a better match with the 1.5 TSi engine than the manual. It's a pleasure to finally be free of thoughts of stalling the car in traffic. It revs slightly lower at 70 MPH than the manual, although early indications are it is around 10% less fuel efficient than the manual. I'll reserve final judgement until I have filled it a few times though. The electric tailgate (and foot operation) is handy although not sure why it can only be opened, but not closed, from the drivers door? Concerns regarding leaks and reliability aside (I'm a former Yeti Panoramic roof victim!!) it is great to be back in a car with a large opening glass roof (which is under manufacturers warranty for 3 years!). Predictably the numerous driver 'aids' have proved a source of irritation. On occasion I turn them off, but more often than not tolerate the tugging at the wheel and numerous bings & bongs😬 I thought I would find the autonomous cruise control useful, but in practice find I actually prefer the simplicity of the 'dumb' cruise control in the older car. The Sportline front seats are (for me) less comfortable than the SE L seats and appear less 'premium'. I do miss the alcantara of the SE L seats. I lost Varioflex rear seats though am pleased to now have a proper parcel shelf, rather than a mesh roller blind. Pleased to see all interior lights are now LED, as are the front fog lights, although suspect this makes them less functional than Halogen in actual fog 😁 I miss the central storage box from the SE L. This has been a feature since Yeti days and added a useful storage area, so I can't for the life of me think why Skoda would have binned it? The roof-mounted storage box was lost as a consequence of sunroof controls. I had a front and rear Road Angel Dashcam fitted (hard wired) which has largely killed Dab reception. I understand this happens as a consequence of the Dashcam's permanently enabled Wi-Fi. Strangely the same brand Dashcam did not similarly impact either a previous Suzuki, or current FIAT🤔 The Internet Radio sounds considerably better than Dab (? higher bitrate), but in order to use it I have to manually connect to my phones hot-spot. The only alternative would be to purchase a data connection for the car, which I suspect I won't do. Not sure if there is a method of automating the cars connection to my phones Wi-Fi hot-spot? This car has 3 years of Infotainment online and connect services, whereas these expired after 1 year with the previous car. There is a new feature known as 'Traffication', which expires after 1 year. I can't see how this provides much additional functionality over Waze / Google maps, so more than likely won't renew. I had paid to extend remote access on the SE L (I thought it worthwhile as it provided the option to remotely lock and unlock the car - a previous KESSY equipped car locked my keys in which necessitated breaking a window!), although no refund was forthcoming from Skoda when I cancelled the remaining subscription. Swopping insurance from the old to new car brought a significant (15%) reduction in premium! I enquired why and was told as a consequence of the extra 'safety' features of the newer car🤷. The ice scraper is no longer translucent green and there is no longer a method of securing the rear seat belt buckles to stop them rattling when not in use. The tyre pressure sticker is no longer behind the fuel flap. Wireless AA and Apple Carplay work faultlessly, although my Galaxy S23 gets incredibly hot when running AA and wirelessly charging. I am definitely not a fan on the 19" alloys and low profile tyres. The tyres offer barely any protection to the rim and we've already kerbed a diamond cut alloy😳 After reading another thread on here I may opt to purchase 17" Skoda alloys and switch to all-season tyres at some point. This car comes with Dynamic Chassis Control. I tried all the options and find Comfort suits the car well, although frustratingly it defaults to Normal after each restart. Suspect this isn't an option I would have separately paid for - possibly more relevant to a more sporting vehicle with greater performance potential? 17" wheels, a higher profile tyre and DCC on Comfort would be a pleasant combination though👌 The virtual dash has a few more options than the simpler offering in the SE L, although in practice offers little additional functionality. I initially thought the full-screen Satnav display looked impressive, but in practice I'd rather see this on the central infotainment display and just have a simple direction arrow on the dash in front of me. This DSG Sportline Edition was 5% more costly to buy new than the manual SE L it replaced, which I guess may reflect the Karoq is soon to be replaced? All in all I probably should have bought a DSG equipped Karoq first time around!

Just had MOT today. Passed. No advisories! I love this car. Best car I've ever owned. Had it for 17 years and found no reason to change it. Bought it at 4 years old with 27k on the clock. Now done 140k. Not bad for a 21 year old, eh?

150ps MQB cars have 276mm or 288mm vented at the front. The rear should be 252mm solid. As to where you can find this information - Phone up a main dealer and ask Look on a forum (such as this one) and then deploy the tape measure. There should also be a code on the build sticker in the boot, however if you don't know what you're looking for, this will be pretty useless!

To answer the original question - yes, 19" wheels on a car designed for 15-17" wheels is too big. You will have an arch gap loss of 34mm and a ride height increase of 34mm, which will cause clearance issues and look stupid. Your speedometer will over-read by 10%, which is completely illegal and an MOT failure. It will, as others have said, overgear the car. This would mean starting in first is like starting in second - probably not great for a little 1.0/1.6. You also can't get any OE 19" wheels in 5x100. Aside from wide, track going 18" 5x100 PCD from Work/Enkei, I can't see any wheels that are even close to what you're suggesting. You would need a 225/30R19, which isn't really available and, even if it was, is once again daft on a car like a Rapid. Increasing to a 19" wheel will also hugely increase the unsprung weight, which will ruin the ride and handling of the car. If the wheels look a bit small in the arches, then get some lowering springs. Converting it into a monster truck won't help!

@Frizzbee30 When I asked recently about a factory order for an SEL Edition, I was quoted 16 weeks.

The smaller cars (Fabia, Scala, Kamiq, Rapid) have 5 bolt 100 PCD (100mm bolt spacing), the larger cars including Karoq have 112 PCD wheels You cannot fit a Karoq wheel with the bigger bolt spacing to a hub with different bolt pattern, the bolts won't line up.

Those tyres are cheap !

A few from this week c130 hercules and some birdies

Hi, welcome. Sorry but the question might be quick but my answer isn't. If you want quick only go to very bottom of this post. Do you have a back up battery - and what is a back up battery, does the car have two 12v batteries or does it mean the alarm battery? (or other, see below) First thing I would do if the car only has one 12v battery (or even if not) is to fully recharge it with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the charger maintainer. I would use a lower (slower) amp charger maintainer so it may may take very many hours to recharge the battery to full but this can be done in one or two or more sessions if there are time restrictions. If you only have the one 12v battery - if the battery is allowed to go too low in state of charge the computers don't like it and can throw up all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and error codes and car issues. The battery may be good enough to have the headlights seem bright enough and easily start the engine but still be too low for the computers. The first signs of low state of charge for the battery is the stop/start not operating when it should and just driving the car to charge the battery sometimes is not enough to charge it enough. 12v batteries like 20c weather temperature and self-discharge twice as much at 30c (and twice as much again at 40c). In hot weather the air-con is used more, the air-con uses a lot of electricity (as does steering). The 12v car battery is one of the most oversold car parts with premature change when often proper full recharging would have been sufficient for at least some more reliable battery life, possibly much more. This code, I don't know might also relate to the alarm battery(?) but again I don't know and it's hot (warm to some) at the moment. What scanner are you using, is it programmed for your model and (part) year or VIN, was the program check to be fully up to date before use, was the car's 12v battery at a reasonable state of charge (and if appropriate same for scanner)? Google search brought up the following that look like a back up battery for something not all car electronics are the finest so I would still consider the heat as a possible factor, at one time VW fitted engine starter relays that didn't like the cold. - https://www.google.com/search?q=VW+B1916F4&rlz=1C1VDKB_en-GBGB1100GB1103&oq=VW+B1916F4&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTgzMDJqMGoxNagCA7ACAQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 HTH.

The Mk3 Fabia so my mate told my wife back then (and he would know as he did constant research on the next car he was getting for himself or his wife) was that the MK3 Fabia had the most cabin space for its class of car. Cars for many years have been bigger on the outside than on the inside (BMW "MINI" being a good example against a real BMC/BL/Rover Mini) with their oversized wheels and tyres for the sake of fashion. If you don't know too much about cars some more general advice. Do general research as you have for this car. Check the car's official history from general internet sources to confirm the advert has correct details. Ask to see any and all paperwork with the car, get digital information paper printed to add to the rest, put all in reverse chronological order. Unfortunately it's a judgement call whether you fully trust the seller, professional or private. Have a good look and drive of the car to see if it's for you, if it is you need to compare it and the drive against other example(s) of the same to know how good, bad or same any particular one is. Cars can usually be more easily cleaned and tarted up than properly serviced and repaired, shiny cars look nice but do they run reliably well. If you decide to buy then get the car professionally checked, warranties and guarantees can't always be relied on and can be very limiting and difficult to use when need - always check exactly what you are buying the car and everything with it like warranty. £9k is a lot of money to gamble of a lump of metal and lots of plastic. Obvious advice now, buy what your wife wants but get the best example of it you can, my wife's priority is the comfort to her of the seats which is very sensible and then the colour, which limited the choice of used Fabia Mk3 within a reasonable distance of travel (we went 30 miles) at that time and inevitably meant she went a bit over budget as she gets inpatient to get a car replacement and most Dealerships and garages don't make it the most pleasant experience particularly when you only want the most straightforward sale without the extras they make the most money on. Good luck, if you find another VWŠkoda Fabia or other) you like then this site has lots of info and advice from owners of the model and general advice.

Air con condensate washing off some protective grease ?

The best car for you is the one you like driving most. I hope you enjoy your new Superb. (EDIT: I misread the 1000km / month as 1000km / year. 😄)

Thank you very much cnc! I checked under the bonnet and you are right as well. 540 00 \ 507 00. As it is Sunday, the best option I found is Halfords 'TotalEnergies Quartz INEO Long Life 5W/30 5L'. Will wait for the shop to open and will update, for reference. Thank you!

Open the bonnet and on the panel just above the headlights somewhere there will be a sticker that shows exactly which oil your engine uses, such as 5W-30, I have the 2.0 TDI 150 bhp which uses 0W-20. As mentioned above it needs to be the correct specification, not just the right grade so check carefully. If the oil is only just on the bottom of the dipstick it will probably take a whole 1 litre to fill it up, but go half a bottle first then check, add more if necessary. The sticker you are looking for will be something like this.

Yes. Pre-facelift door looms will have a CAN pair to window motor, and three connectors to the motor, facelift has single wire LIN comms to window motor and only two connectors at motor.

So after many weeks of dithering to go to the dark side, as my kids call it ( electric ) , we decided to .. and came home with a new big red fire engine , mk2 VRS Kodiaq , a bit like Luke skywalker " i will never go to the dark side .... " 😄

Congratulations to @Jasas on being being added to the list - newly acquired no.51 in Lithuania ex Dubai!

My 2016 model did exactly the same every few months and never knew why. Traded it in for a 2020 facelift about 18 months ago and the DAB situation is great. SatNav is a completely different story though - 2016 great, 2020 ****e!!

Thanks! New poster here 😃

I also often find that the range is lower when the tank is full. A few kilometres later, driving normally, I sometimes gain up to 100/150 km of range.

Probably because the SEL "Edition" is not in their system so computer says no.

Sensor 2 still playing up even with a new loom connector and carefully cleaned sensor connector. That sensor has been on there for a couple of months though, so oil may have got too far up it. Cheapish aftermarket replacement due midweek. Just found this on YT: How Oil Destroys Lambda Sensors & How to Fix It

I might be doing mine in the next year or 2. Currently on 75k (miles) and 7yrs. The recent change from whatever it was (70k and 5 year?) gives confidence that they are capable of holding out a bit. Id say 100k (160k km) would be my limit. Age is up to you but 10 years seems a good limit too. Note I say "limit". Depending on your usage (anything other than pootling round town with stop-start off) can remove life from the running parts.

they say no limit. i will change it on 150000 kms or 10 yrs..

And VWŠkoda UK no longer con their UK customers by having the unnecessary (dry) cam belt change interval at 5 years / 50k-miles. - CamBeltchangechange.pdf

depedns also is it 1.0, 1.4 tsi od 2.0 tdi 170ps.. maybe 2.0 tsi 4x4 or else.. more data needs. also do you need front, rear or all 4 discs.

thats easy job now. turn engine to 4th cilinder valve sty open, that means that 1-2-3 are closed. spray little brake cleaner to see it valve seals properly. if yes, take bottle of carburetter cleaner add spray in ports 1-2-3 to the top. wait 12 hours, i left it to morning, you will se how easy dirt will come off, isung just plastic brushes and picks. i uset tools and stuff like that on pictures. cut a piece of this polimer mesh for cleaning copper pipes and fix it to some pick or little tweezers, with plastic zip ties, that i have not use strengh on fingers and detailed brush everything. when liquid become black and thick, i pull it out with come cotton cloth, use compressed air too and see where depozits are left, then concentrate on them. same stuff carb cleaner and brushing. all of that will cost you 30€, i wont never pay 700€ how much some garage ask me to, or skoda service i think 1000€. insane. look before and after..

The problem was The interior heat exchanger , it was coughed changed it , and now everything is ok Thanks !

@super717 You posted in the thread about DQ200,s that you got a letter saying @ 140,000. So not necessary because of your mileage. But that 140,000 miles in the letter is not the Skoda / VW Group advice, so was that Customer Services contractors answer? EDIT, sorry i see it was the Skoda Dealer you asked. Letter from Skoda UK though.

Unfortunately this is not true. Several cars that I have had have started with standard items which have then either been discontinued or been relegated to an option. I guess it is to reduce the effect of general price increases.

I do. Here you go. (https://www.protectionfilms24.com/article/2x-brotect-matte-screen-protectorskoda-karoq-amunds-sportline-2021-infotainment-system-1941804.html ) I got one and very please with it. It does have a semi matte finish but doesn't show fingerprints. I find the screen is easier to read under all light conditions (so far) and is still OK with fingers touching "buttons" Recommended. BTW, you get two screen protectors in a pack.

@Giannis20 @Felix2021 I have been looking for this thread a long, long time. Happy I found it, kudos to you @Giannis20 In the meantime I did a research which I think may bring some more worthy details. Currently I drive a company car Skoda Superb IV 2024 (code NZ) which is a base model missing, among few things, a rear USB-C section. I dig a lot in wiring diagrams of other modern cars of VAG group and here is what I found: It seems VAG completely dropped USB-hub solution, it happened depending on the car model in years 2019-2022, so any wiring diagrams dated before are with this regard (usb wiring) obsolete now. Currently, in all modern VAG cars (model years 2023+) there are two USB (namely USB-C) solutions, that have been gradually implemented in all VAG car models in recent years. I present them in accordance to PR codes: (1) U9E: External, USB type C data socket(s) and charging socket(s) with increased charging performance In this solution there are two double usb-c sockets capable 45W delivery (fast charging): front - double usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 700 rear - double usb-c VAG part 2G6 035 718 and a front mirror socket (I guess up to 15W) VAG 3V0 035 954 or alternatively 1J0 937 510 This solution is offered in higher segment cars or sometimes as an option (higher trim), for instance T-Cross, Octavia, Superb but please note that VAG uses strong market segmentation. This means endless matrix of countries, car brands, model years and trim levels. (2) U9C: External, USB type C data socket(s) and charging socket(s) In this solution there are two double standard usb-c sockets offering slow charging. front - double usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 736 rear - double usb-c VAG part 2G6 035 954 This solution is offered is lower segment cars (e.g. VW Polo MY 2024). Upon my research no front mirror is offered in this segment. (3) U9B: External, USB type C, only data socket(s) or U9G External, USB type C data socket(s) with increased charging performance There is also a mixed solution (see my comment above about market segmentation) which usually, I would say mostly offers only one double, slow-charging usb-c socket in front VAG part 5NA 035 736. This is for instance a case for Octavia Superb IV (2024) Essence or only one front double usb-c fast 45W charging socket. There is only one front usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 736. No rear or front mirror sockets. Further, there is no harness either to a mirror or to rear part of the car (if you hope to find harness ready to plug-and-play, don't bother, Volkswagen saves every penny). IMPORTANT - WIRING DIFFERENCES Please check this carefully own you own, but I found that the main difference between solution 1 (fast charging) and 2(standard, slow) is: Solution 1 - PR code U9E, parts 5NA 035 700 (front) + 5NA 035 718 (rear) 4-pin socket 8K0 973 754 Pin 1 - KL30a - +12V battery (positive) Pin 2 - VS5V - 5V line Pin 3 - KL58 - instrument lighting Pin 4 - GND - ground Solution 2 PR Code U9C parts 5NA 035 736 + 5NA 035 954 Pin 1 - KL30a - +12V battery (positive) Pin 2 - GND - ground Pin 3 - KL58 - instrument lighting Pin 4 - empty or VS5V (check specific mode wiring diagram). Note: slow charging solution probably can work without 5V line (pin 4). Note: based upon wiring diagrams (see attached for Skoda Superb iV) both solutions use same size positive wires (pin 1) 0,75, but fast charging solution has more ground connections vs to slow charging. Tip: (any car) if you tired to swap 1:1 slow charging front double usb-c slow charging socket 5NA 035 736 to fast charging 5NA 035 700 note that you probably have to re-pin the connection socket - and swap pin 2 and 4 (fast charging solution has GND on pin 4 while slow charging on pin 2). All for now. I hope it helps. Disclaimer: any modifications of the original wiring is at your own responsibility. Any information above is only for research purposes and please never treat it as a guide or instruction. You have always to double check or better use professional car workshop. Skoda Superb IV (NZ) - USB charging sockets solution.pdf

I do. Here you go.

Resolved Removed the RH boot carpet and found the sound insulation material which is bonded to the back of the carpet had come loose and was blocking the vent. Removed that section and its now back to normal!

My Fabia 1.9tdi VRS SE Blue, has today gone to the garage in the sky Nobles recycling Randolph Ind est Kirkcaldy Scotland After 18 years great service, I could no longer keep her, with insurance,road tax, and general running, I could not afford her She was in great condition full MOT DEC 2024 But cut out on me Sunday 8/FEB/2025 Garage wanted towing fee's which on my pension I could not afford She has unused leather seats number 28 four new refurbished alloys and full new tyres,TRACK RODS AND WISHBONES ALL NEW So if looking for anything from her it is Nobles randolph Ind Est Kirkcaldy Scotland 01592 651394 I have kept her in excellent condition full service history MOT's all clean Good bye Bluebird Many good times but now regrets NATIONAL GF G

USB ports installation This is the plastic we removed from the back side. We need to remove the part that is the ashtray and replace it with the USB base With a plastic tool or a small screwdriver, press the plastic pins (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily.press the plastic sheets (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily. In the opening created, put the plastic with the USBs and make sure it clicks correctly. We connect the brown plug in place and fasten all the plastic to the center console. ΅We are done!!! Now we can enjoy our new USB ports.

Installation: Some plastic parts need to be removed. The right side panel of the central console. The rear plastic (along with the air ducts) of the central console. Looking from below you can see the plug of the front USB ports. It's the red one with the 4 wires. It must be removed to make the new wiring. It's a bit difficult because of the limited space. A small tool with a turned nose that I had helped me a lot. If someone doesn't have it, he can make something similar with a thick wire. With this tool one can press the plug button to unclip and come out. Time to wire. We need to run the new wiring through the center console and bring it to the back. A plastic fish tape wire puller helped me with this. Then we connect our new wiring to the red plug, arrange the connection (I also put some soft material) so that it does not knock and make noise. The side panel can go into place, we're done with that.

Well, i managed to retrofit rear usb ports. As i mentioned i bought the plastic trim with the USBs holes. (5E3863618 (9B9) The USB module with 2 USBs - C ports is the 3G5035954A An cheap sourch is from a Poland site named SkodaParts (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3g5035954a-usb-c-connector-skoda-38659.html) I did the wiring. I bought some plugs for this purpose. The black to connect the wiring to the car's (needs a little modification), the red to connect the existing contact of the front seats and the brown for the rear seats USB. The black plug (female) needs a bit of cutting to get the male red plug in. Please see the photo below: And this is the wiring Each plug has 4 pins. Connect 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and 3 to 3 to all plugs. 4 only needs to be connected from the black female to the red male. The new USBs that we will put back do not need to be connected to No.4. This is the schematic This is the result of the preparation.

Sadly not, although Google Maps does so I'm not surprised that Apple Maps does too. I would really like it if I could get Waze (or Google Maps) to display the whole map etc in the VC the way the built-in satnav can. Then we could use the Infotainment screen to choose music and keep navigation directly in front of me. If the built-in SatNav was any good, I'd probably use it just because of that, but of all the navigation options I have (that plus Waze, Google and Apple) it's the least good, so I don't.