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@lol-lol I pick up the courtesy MINI E on Tuesday night and will have it for at least 3 nights. I will play about more with it this time. When i took it home last time i did not mess about setting anything or adjusting other than the seat and mirrors then was booting it home. It was doing near 5 miles a kWh. and i never charged it when home or before taking it back. It was damn good and nothing was switched off, lane keep assist or speed limit warning. It was not as sharp to accelerate as my MINI in Mid and i just tried Go-Kart mode for a few bends then back to mid. It cornered very very well in that setting. (The tyre pressures were showing all at 2.5 bar.)

Another hour of free electricity from Octopus tomorrow 2-3 pm. Got £3 refund for my free electricity a fortnight ago. With the lowering of the daily standing charge all the recent sunshine and my new 2 axis solar tracking array which is increasing solar collection by about half I have reduced down my DD to Octopus to £133 and am still in credit by a months worth of usage. In a counter move petrol station are thinking of delivering fuel cans with a few litres in to their customers. Na, not really. Octopus may not be the absolute cheapest hourly rate but they seem to be very fair on tweaking the DD payments and not insisting one is massively in credit in summer. Also they do Octoplush toys that even Maverick the Lab does not destroy in 10 minutes like most other dog toys......

A couple from this evening 📸

Can’t go wrong with a fab . Bulletproof That’s my baby

Hi, it is I, and I've traded in my lease Polo MK7 for an owned Octavia MK3 to be able to throw a bicycle in the back without having to take out the front wheel. As I like tinkering with stuff I'm pretty happy to be owning a car again. I've had the car for 2 weeks now and replaced the multimedia screen with a newer version to run android auto and have a multimedia experience similair to what I had in the Polo. Still on my 2 months warranty so I am trying to find out everything that could be an issue before I have to pay for it myself. Octavia MK3 Built in 2015 (2016 model) 182000km 1.4 TSI DSG DQ200 gearbox

I have given up on the saving days as I was just getting a few pence but on the free days I plug both EVs and plug in my Allpower S2000 which charges at 1.5 kws. I should put on the electric immersion too which is 3kws and then save on the gas but gas is so cheap ie 5.71 p per kwh and the boiler is 15 kws so much more powerful. Just have to make sure I do not stay above 80A is only about 18 kws and I am getting up to 12 kws already after National Grid switched my 100 A to 80A as is policy now.

Hi All, i'm updating where I'm at if it helps others. My VAG specialist VOLKS AUTO in Sutton ran the car through their diagnostic yesterday to come up with a parts list which allows them to order a special "repair kit for these mechantronic units " in from VW in Germany (it seems then that VW are fully aware of the issues in that they have a repair kit). This is roughly 50% the cost of a whole new unit some garages have quoted me in London. From the sounds of it they've done quite a few of these repairs. The only issue is that it can take up to 3 weeks for the special order parts to arrive from Germany and you need to pay in advance as they're special order.

What instrument was used to get the 12.8 volt battery reading - and under what conditions?

Sh-!t weather and doing quite a few miles and many more to cover in the next 4 days. I am more than happy to be paying 140 pence a litre for diesel and getting 46 mpg or better rather than paying 60 - 79 pence a kWh to charge so maybe £6.00 to £7.90 for maybe 37 to 46 miles as I drive.

If they are a Skoda specialist ask them to change the service interval from variable to fixed and reset it when you have the service.

Many thanks again bigade1 for the updated file, FC

About as off road as I’ll be going for now. Off to an off road experience with Land Rover next week in the Scottish Highlands. Using their car thankfully, opted for a Defender, though was tempted by a full fat Range Rover. Will try and get some shots of mounting kerbs driving through potholes and swerving traffic cones..🤣

Hi all, Since 2 weeks I'm the proud owner of a 10 yo Octavia. She's got 182000km on the clock and I got 2 months of warranty from the 2nd hand car dealership I bought it from. So far I've driven 700km and gotten a number of errors and warnings, of which I believe the misfires to be the most serious. I'm trying to understand what could be the issue with the car so I can better understand when a dealership is just trying to dodge having to pay, or when they might have a point. I've gotten een OBDeleven to read out the fault codes. I'll start with the easy one of which I'm semi-sure that it's not related to the other codes. 3 times in those 700kms I have gotten the dutch error: "Storing: werkplaats! Wagen alleen in positie P verlaten", which in English would be "Error workshop only leave vehicle in P position". The ODBeleven found a non active error code B116229, as I currently believe it's a common broken microswitch in the DSG stick that can be replaced. Am I correct in thinking that there's no real risk in letting this be for now, other than that the errors are annoying? Then there is the Start Stop System. At the start of my drives the car indicates that the start stop system has an error. I find no error codes related to it, but I do think the battery voltage is a bit low with 13,9V when charging and 12,2V with the engine off 3 min later. There's some aircon energy management faults that also point towards the battery being on its way out. I'm mainly including this because it could somehow be related to the misfires in a way I don't understand. Then for our main event the thing that actually worries me, the misfires. I had the car in my possession for 400km without this happening before, when after 20 minutes the engine suddenly started running very poorly. At the time I was doing 35 km/h in 4th gear. I pulled over and turned the engine off. When I restarted the issue was completely gone. I've driven 300km since without the issue reoccuring. Misfires were recorded in all cylinders. There's an active fault for 'Diagnotistic interface for data bus', U100800, that I can't find any info on. There is also an active fault saying there's no communication with the generator that could or could not be related. I called the dealership, and they said that since the errors don't stay active on the dashboard of the car, they would like me to keep driving to see if anything sticks before going through the trouble of diagnosing. I'm trying to figure out if that is a reasonable call or not. Could the misfires just be a one-off that don't mean anything more serious? Sorry for the overload of information and thanks for bearing with me! Sidenote: The misfires happened before I installed a newer OEM multimedia screen and some software updates.

Hi all, wondering if one of you clever clogs can help. Not sure if things are linked in anyway but will just give you what i have. 5 months ago heard a warning deep and an error came up on dash, went away so quickly i could never read it, would happen now and again sometimes not for weeks! Finally saw it and was the "Error workshop! Only leave vehicle in P position" error. Not seen this error for a good few weeks now. Took the car in for a full service (not a skoda dealership) called them and they were about 3/4 way through service and they asked if i had ever had issues starting it. Never had an issue always started on the button. Collected car and was fine, 3 days later wouldn't start again. Eventually started it. Thought it might be the starter solenoid, tapped it with a hammer. Car started. (This could be a total coincidence). Was running fine and so i decided to fit a new starter/solenoid and battery and replaced the signal wire to the solenoid. Started first time no issues. Assumed was the solenoid and all fixed. Just happened again, Any clues? Thanks fabia.avi

I bought my first Skoda yesterday! So far so good!

Just back from 1000 miles travelled in France. Unable to get any public chargers working there on my Debit or Credit cards, maybe sign up for a French card for next trip. However overall fuel economy running on regenerative electric and petrol gave me 56mpg. Happy with that but would have preferred the 107 I usually get with regular charging. Annoying that the LONG TERM figures on the display reset after a set period and not after as long as period as I would like. Have checked the handbook and it confirms this auto reset. Good fuel economy down to long smooth french roads, always use A roads rather than Péage to enjoy the journey. In latter part of the trip my Cruise Control and EBA stopped working. Booked in for next week. Hope it is a reset rather than major unit needing replacement.

Hi Guys, just a quick hello from me. I’ve dabbled in the VAG world over the years. I had an awesome VW Bora when I was younger and I’ve just traded in my 2018 Seat Leon FR for a 2023 Skoda Fabia TSI 110 as I’m changing career and becoming a driving instructor and needed something a bit more sensible. I’m sure I’ll have many questions but looking forward to experiencing the Skoda world. Cheers.

Hi, I've a 2017 Skoda Fabia - bought in 2019 although I've had a Fabia before and been very happy with it (was introduced to them by my daughter and son-in-law). I've just joined to get support for minor issues that I might be able to fix without bothering a garage (although I've a small local garage that I trust for anything that needs it). I'm OK with computers and things electrical generally, and in the motor world I'll change tyres and wiper blades, topup fluids but don't have knowledge or experience for much more. Jeremy

Hello from Coventry I drive a Skoda Fabia VRs mk1 2004 and it’s my little baby owned it just over 2 months now

Eye witness in car being ovetaken then GPS on car and phones and all the information from the ECU will tell the tale of the vehicle and occupants last journey while alive. Now it is not just the wealthy that can have very fast cars not that it ever has been, but now for under £6,000 you can get a very quick EV and maybe with suspension, brakes and tyres just needing a bit of work and a MOT or even cheaper fixed / parts and a snide MOT. Garage staff doing road tests of very quick cars might well be a liability and should require more than just a driving licence and the standard test..

Aaahhhhh i remember my first day with my first skoda too.... ended up joining here the same day back in 2012!! Enjoy it! and the forum!

Ok thanks, will do.

Hello, and welcome to Briskoda👋

As gumdrop's original enquiry was on 17 June, hopefully he was able to sort out the problem himself by now or have had the problem resolved professionally.

Rainworth Skoda remove the pump and clean the gauze. They record that the pump was removed on the service invoice and will photograph the state of the pump for you. Had mine done there several times when I had Yeti's.

Looks like a plan for one of them 15 minute cities Gaz

I don't think its a case of trusting the dealer or not, I think the point is dealers don't have that stage in the process. It tends to be VAG specialists that have identified that and will do it (and sometimes provide before and after pics too). In the grander scheme of things, I'd say don't bother with dealer unless you're maintaining a warranty and even then I think there is a split between "servicing" and "maintenance" and dealers just have to undertake the annual servicing, they don't have to do the further maintenance jobs. I think @Ootohere is the specialist for these aspects and will put me right if I've missed the point...

You can close the electric boot using the switch on the drivers door by pulling and holding the switch until it’s closed. Note that if you release the switch, the movement of the tailgate will stop.

I enjoyed a LR offroad day at Solihull some years back, and unless they've dumbed it down a lot do prepare yourself for a challenging - but exciting and educational - day in the wilds :)

Yes, V17 is the latest version, it was released I belie in 2018 or 2019.

Are you reading that part number off individual pads? Pads are sold by Skoda in axle sets, with a part number that doesn't match what's actually printed on each pad. You can possibly find what you're looking for via sites such as this: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Note though that there are multiple different options of front and rear brake set-ups, so be sure you've picked the right diagram for your disc size etc. If in doubt, let me know and we can look up via your VIN.

I've not reset any of the codes and I've been putting a charger on it each night. So yes, will wait to see what the dealership says next Friday.

Hello and welcome. I think you're fundamentally right about dodging the simple stuff and focusing on the misfire, though that gear selector micro-switch is probably worth sorting out quickly, IMO. When was the car last serviced? Plugs, lead, coil packs might all be a problem at that sort of mileage if not already replaced/serviced, though the power cycle reset seems to suggest it's an intermittent fault, not just faulty old parts. I don't know the dealer, but I would be pushing them to either sort out the problem now, or extend your warranty for this issue if they insist that you have to keep driving it to get more data on the fault.

Oh, completely. Unless they are trained and used to them, most places won't touch them with a bargepole. It took me several weeks and a few phone calls to find somewhere reputable and experienced to do my DSG service (The Phirm in Camberley, Surrey - absolutely top blokes). To be honest, I couldn't even be bothered to comment properly - OP will find that the dark oil was probably due to the (145k) filter not being replaced OP will find that the gearbox oil should be warmed when filling a DSG box, among other steps OP will probably find the high pressure pump is knackered, having been run dry OP will find that starting the car to 'see if I fitted it right' isn't a prescribed step in a VW service bulletin It will probably be worth keeping an eye on the other threads they've posted too - https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/46651-skoda-dsg-problems/ https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1lkazbx/possible_mechatronic_issue/ Again, I'm not sure any of this is stuff they should be doing themselves!

Just to add to this - after almost killing my battery by leaving my windows open all night (I was exhausted, alright) I was met with a list of fault codes as long as my arm. When the battery voltage drops too low, lots of stuff becomes unhappy and logs a code - from the ACC and collision avoidance to power windows and gateway signal codes. I had a heart attack as I thought it could be to do with water damage. The battery was replaced, along with the window switches as a precaution - it's just coming up to a year and all is well. I would leave it as is, until Skoda look at it. I would also plug it into a trickle charger - I did the same on my Octavia and it lasted the week or so until I replaced the battery. Once the battery is replaced, look up 'reset one touch windows'.

A piece about VWs forray into switching from ICE to EV by the FT.

Very common to have lots of unexpected warning messages and (unseen) error codes when the battery gets too low for the car's computer systems and this is when the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before the engine won't start. The battery has to be very low before you get any difficulty starting the engine let alone before it can't start the engine. Usually the first sign the battery is too low for the car's computers is when the stop/start doesn't work when it should, at that point the battery needs charging and sometimes just driving the car isn't enough and fully recharging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger. A long low (amps) recharge is best. The 12.8v can be when the battery has just been charged and drops given a little time and as has been put drops, possibly a lot, given load. If you only got the car three weeks ago there are three possibilities I can think of - the battery was/is old and worn and should have been replaced (but car 12v batteries are the most oversold car part and very often prematurely replaced rather than properly fully recharged the battery was low and not recharged by the seller before you took the car (possibly car not used whilst on sale) your use of the car and electrical systems in the car has taken the battery to a low state of charge there is a constant drain the battery from a fault or perhaps(?) something you have added to the car(?). The car battery likes 20c weather temperature and self-discharges at twice the rate at 30c and twice again at 40c - and of course during hot weather you use the air-con a lot more and the air-con (and steering) use a lot of electric. If it wasn't for the fact you have booked the car I would have suggested deleting all error codes straight away, though they should resolve themselves if the battery is in a good state of charge and/or with use of the car. You have learnt how important it is to keep the car's 12v battery in a reasonable state of charge to avoid upsetting the car's computer systems, many/most/(?)all of these error codes may have been present well before the engine wouldn't start so bear that in mind if the stop/start doesn't work when it should or you get low battery or other warnings. HTH. Let us know how you get on.

Latest Updated Speedcams - July, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( July, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - July, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

I think it does, watch this video.

Hello, depending on how (and with what) you tested the battery voltage, a reading of 12.8 volts should be ok - however, a more significant test is what the terminal voltage drops to when a load is applied to the battery - when the starter motor is operated, for instance. It is common for numerous and seemingly random faults to be reported when the battery is failing.

If the dipstick is showing just under half the oil light should not be coming on, the yellow low oil warning usually comes on when the oil level is right at the bottom end of the dipstick. Perhaps there is a problem with the oil level sensor or the dipstick is the wrong one for the engine. Having said that if it has dropped half way down the dipstick in 1000km the oil use is quite high in my opinion, but just within the 0.5 litre/1000km that Skoda suggest. For comparison I have the 150 TDI which currently has 95,000 miles (153,000km) and between 30,000km longlife services I may have to put in 1/2 litre to keep it topped up (it would go the whole 30,000km without topping up but I prefer the oil to be at the higher end of the dipstick).

As @Gammyleg said, there is proscribed method on how to fill the DSG box with oil and think that you must follow it precisely other wise you run an elevated risk of major damage. I would not ever take the risk of even attempting to start the engine with first following that procedure to fill the gearbox correctly. There is dedicated machine for this as in this video. https://youtu.be/TMiWH5YjUIg

Love this car he is driving. & where he is driving.

Plug straight into the socket and set the timing in the car - mine is set to 0% minimum charge (so it doesn't start charging straight away) and then charge between 23:30 and 04:30 each night.

@em00 Hello. There are two options to update your unit. Update to version 0253 and unlock SmartLink. Or update to version 0480 and activate SmartLink and all hidden features. Version 0480 is colorful and has a tiled menu. Feel free to write to me.

It’s been a great car for us! I’ve got it advertised on Autotrader for £1475 but I’ve been a member on here for 15 years and I’ve had my fair share of good deals over the years so it’s time to give something back to the forum.

Unfortunately not! Dealer checked this morning & the status needs to change to delivery to dealer (something like that anyway!) so it's still at the port. My current vrs is going to have to transport all my camping stuff to Silverstone for the weekend 🏎!

ECU Testing will carry out a diagnosis but will refuse to tell you their findings. They will also refuse to tell you which parts, if any, were inspected/checked or which were replaced. These are all 'Trade Secrets' apparently. Presumably they only charged you a diagnostic fee as they have not been able to repair the unit?

Yeah, corporate and personal greed, yet another American influence to our country, not that we didn't have some of it home-grown just not on the industrial scale as the "land of opportunity". Our house builders were on to it fairly well back, split the company up one part selling to another to gain profit and avoid tax that one ding the same to another going down a chain, buy a bit of land sit on it for decades, sell it to yourself and get all your different companies to do different bits until the end product of are finally available to sell, but perhaps even have someone retain the land. Motor trade is very incestuous and gives an illusion of a wider range of choice than actually exists. Remember 2008, where are those that made the mistakes and where are those that are paying for their mistakes. Life's a bitch and then you die. 😄 Last time I had some rust removed from my old car I said to the chap that ran the business (took over from his mum and dad) that there wasn't a replacement or repair section for the bit of bodywork with the rust and he said they didn't need them as they could make their own, second generation repairer and probably last.

Thank you for your reply bigjohn. I found the problem in the end. There are actually two sender units, one for each side of the fuel tank. I only found this mentioned very briefly in the workshop manual after a lot of searching on erwin. When I looked under the left back seat, I found a not quite finished mouse nest on the fuel tank cover with the wires to the sender unit neatly bitten off flush with the plug. Once I soldered it back together - hey presto normal fuel gauge again! It appears that the gauge adds up the readings from the two sides, so if one is not working you get about half the fuel level reported. Even though it's front wheel drive, there is still a transmission tunnel and the fuel tank is kind of draped over it and therefore has a vacuum pump and sender unit on the left hand side as well as the normal fuel pump and sender on the right.