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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/07/25 in all areas

  1. I sold my Polo GTI via Bigwantsyourcar a month or so ago. They paid me £1,000 more than what a VW dealer offered me and £1,900 more than WBAC offered (before they start trying to knock you down). Very easy process, no negotiation on price and the money was in the bank instantly. Couldn't really have wished for it to be more painless really.
  2. Morning All, 2025 March registered Kodiaq Sportline PHEV 5 Seat. Just back from a family vacation where I put the Kodiaq PHEV to the test. 2nd July Trip from Glasgow to Newhaven Port England. 2 adults and 3 kids (12, 6 and 3 year old) Roof box filled with clothes at shoes (480l) and the boot filled with all we need for 3 weeks at 2x Eurocamp sites. (4 litre airfryer included for my kids who only eat yellow food) 1/2 tank of fuel + 2x stops to 50kW DC charge. (1st stop Tebay farm shop, 2nd stop M40 South Services) Got to Newhaven and topped up the tank at the local Sainsburys, no local DC fast charges, seems like a loss of revenue for them. Overnight ferry to Dieppe, drove to nearest Total Energies station and fast charged, then on to Eurocamp, east of Paris (Le Chene Gris). Drove in and out of Paris 3 times (Disney). Filled tank before leaving the next day, no local fast charger. Left Paris and headed towards the Vendee for our site at Chateau La Foret, stopped once to fast charge. Only drove small amount at the 2nd site to the local Super U. Filled car and fast charged for journey home. Filled once more in South England and charged twice more on route back to glasgow. Total Distance. 1932 miles Avg Fuel Consumption. 53.7 mpg Avg Energy Consumption. 13.1 m/kWh Space. Comfortable for 5 with all the kids needs in the back seats while still giving us adults plenty of space upfront, I didn't change my driving position, wife stretch out with chair slightly reclined. 5/5 Stars. Purchased the sport seat media holders, expensive for what they are but thankful i bought them, well used. For my last two holidays we have used a VW T6 SWB Transporter Kombi, I was a little worried about fitting it all in the Kodiaq, we did cut back on extras, however not by much and with the added roof box we had no issues. Instead of suitcases we used clear packing cudes, 6 fitted in the box (5 clothes, 1 linnen with towels and trainers in the gaps). We used 2 plastic boxes, 1 for food the other for cleaning products, my wee boy took his balance bike (front wheel removed) and my middle took her foldable skooter, everything was packed around these (including the airfryer) As much as I love french wine, i also love bourbon, so packed 2x 2ltr bottles of Jim Bean and in the "lower boot" under the flap I filled this with pepsi max (48 cans), wife loves gin so remainder space was filled with tonic, kids colouring books and the required 5x hi-vis vests. We also managed on the route home to bring back 57 bottles of wine. All packed so i could still see out of the rear of the car. This is a company car, I chose this (and the tax burden) over another kombi as I missed driving cars. I've got it for 2 years handing it back March 2027 before the tax burden near doubles for PHEV's on my P11D. This car never missed a beat, 1.5l engine is ore than capable, keep it hybrid and charged and it'll run supper efficient, yes it's noisey when pushed hard, but why push it hard, it isn't a SQ5. ACC all the way to France and back, no issues. Used inbuit sat nav over google maps. Happy to answer any questions people may have as I've probably missed something important. Also French charge 0.59 euro per kWh, the English charge 0.89 pounds per kWh. 50kW charge to around 80% then drops down to around 10kW for final 20%. average charge time 45min to full. Salut, David.
  3. Huroo. I've bin workin away for a beet. Having a look around to see if I mizzed anything
  4. Good to know. I was quite active on SeatCupra before the Occy, and saw similar. My Leon FR was on 18s with the same tyre size, and part of me wants to go up to 19s to be special. I don't think there's really any other reason. I'll have you know I bought the car last year, with poorly refurbed wheels! They're all saveable (just some lacquer peel, really), although there is a pretty big cut in the OSF - guess they must have whacked a kerb pretty hard. I was just taking the opportunity to 'upgrade' a little, as it's clear the diamond cut finish doesn't last long in the UK. Hand on heart, I have never kerbed a wheel, aside from the Fiesta I learnt it (and I really did whack it). I look a bit of an idiot parallel parking with the door open and leaning out, or when I spend five minutes manoeuvring through car park barriers, but I've never hit a wheel on anything - it's kind of my thing. I'd be looking at some RF018s in Matt Anthracite. The car is blue, with black everything (grille, trim, spoiler, etc), so silver might look a bit out of place. Gloss black isn't my style, and bronze with blue would give Subaru vibes. The anthracite is very OE, and I think looks quite clean. I think I've decided to go for 18s. I worked out that, with new tyres (be it 225 or 235), to jump up to 19s I'd be looking at over £2,000, compared with the £1,200 for 18s. Tyre prices are also worth thinking about (all PS5 from Black Circles, not fitted) - 225/40R18 - £98 225/35R19 - £175 235/35R19 - £140 That isn't really justifiable, especially considering I'm trading so much for just looks that I'm not overly fussed about. I think the 18s will look very nearly as good, and I like how the brakes fill out the wheels too. Maybe if I had DCC or a Superb, it would be different. I've attached a PFL Mk3 wearing them. I did consider Racingline, but the R360 I like only comes in 19", and the 18" options are all 8.5J for a square track setup - so I'd need 235s or even 245s to go on. I might consider going up a size anyway, but I refuse to see how an extra 10mm is really going to improve the handling/traction. Any thoughts?
  5. 2 points
    It’s the reviews I pay attention to. Any machine (Hunter or other) is only as good as the bloke that’s using it!
  6. It all depends who is deciding what an edge case is. Without wishing to offend anyone, my guess is that a large proportion of the members on here are, at the very least, above the age of 45. Indeed, a large portion of you are (from conversations I've read/had) into your 60s. For those, then I don't doubt that much of the newer range of cars doesn't appeal to you! Heck, I'm in my early 20s and nothing in the line-up appeals to me - there's a reason I drive a 2020 vRS and not a 2025 Elroq. Equally though, I myself am an edge case - the majority of people in and around my age group want a car that goes from A to B, with CarPlay and maybe a nice lease deal. They don't want an estate with room for tools and stuff in the back, because they don't have tools. They don't need 800 miles of range, because they fly. They don't need handling, because who cares. They like a shiny badge, flashy headlights and being a bit higher up than everyone else. That said, I'm not trying to appear a dinosaur - I have nothing against electric cars. I absolutely love the performance aspect of them, and find many aspects of them hugely appealing. I just don't like the designs, interiors or the other stuff that comes with them. If they made a sensible, reasonably-sized electric Golf with a normal/traditional interior and exterior, along with 250bhp and some fun toys, then I'd at least test drive it. Not to mention, of course, that anything electric/hybrid remotely performance based and practical, is completely out of the price range of someone my age. I personally hate the direction that all manufacturers are going. if I had to buy a brand new car today, and it had to be realistic, I'm not sure what I'd get. I love a manual, but that's a weekend car job - DCTs are perfect for a daily. I'd want above 300bhp, space for my bikes, something that looks sporty and handles well, has CarPlay and everything but is also not covered in screens and touch sensitive crap (I'm old at heart). The new S5 Avant and M340i models appeal, but they're the thick end of £60k+. Sticking to the brands we know and love... ummmm... maybe I could get on with the new Octavia vRS or Cupra Leon ST (until they ditch them in a year or two). All the hatchbacks are smaller than they used to be on the inside, whilst being bigger on the outside. My dad's 2024 118i has a joke for a boot compared to the 2011 A3 Sportback it replaced (and, btw, is 5 inches longer than an old 2001 328i Touring we used to have). Meanwhile, the 2022 Ibiza FR wasn't much smaller than the A3. Since when did the Polo and Mini Cooper stop being small cars? Who needs a BMW X7 - it's like driving a Chieftain tank! Since when did a hot hatch have 255 section tyres 350bhp and weigh 1600kg? No wonder the BMW XM has 740bhp - it needs it to move 2,800kg! The new 3 series is as big as an old 5 series was, and they're unbelievably expensive if you want any kit on them. Hell, top VW Touareg models, as nice and 350bhp-Q7-leather-esque as they are, go for upwards of £90,000... for a Volkswagen! I agree with whoever said similar above - if everyone had reasonably sized cars and halogen headlights, nobody would feel the need to drive around in crossovers and SUVs (that, btw, are no bigger inside than the estate/hatchbacks they're based on) with collapsed suns blinding you from the bonnet. Stuff like Matrix systems are unbelievably clever, useful and great for safety, but until everyone has them, it isn't going to work. Everything currently on the market is, in my opinion, so overpriced for what it is, and a shadow of how things used to be - in terms of quality, value, practicality, user-friendliness and general usability. All of the new cars I've driven have just not been as good as the previous versions of them I've owned/driven - be it a Golf, a Leon, an A6, a Defender 110 or a 718 GT4. Brands such as BMW M Division, Porsche and others are still keeping the idea of a performance car alive, but I fear they are running out of time. Rant over. I appreciate I've made a multitude of sweeping statements flooded with hyperboles and personal opinion, but you get my drift.
  7. I think you were sensible rather than the Amazon item. They are a good seller and quick delivery and you know it is the right part. Also a great price.
  8. Hopefully it's just the sensor. The abs ring on the hub can also be worn causing the same fault to show. There is a bit more involved in replacing it. Might be best to just have it fully checked at the service.
  9. A long shot but it could be thattvthe car has lost its recognition of the key and hence the immobiliser is kicking in?
  10. It had a fairly comprehensive service last year with new spark plugs and rear brake pads so it is only due a basic oil and inspection service this time around. The dealer quoted me £270, the VAG independent who did it last time want £180!
  11. Hi jd52. The cost per month is cheaper than paying separately for servicing, mot,s etc.
  12. I just had a look at my SportLine, and it has no mud flaps … although there is a pair of (what look like) mud flaps in front of the rear wheels, but I assume these are for aero reasons?
  13. Honestly, that’s the beast with 121k miles on. I’ve also got this as well, close to 380 BHP now. It certainly does not go to the shouting ground
  14. No Purdeys either. Mostly Browning O/U. I’ve had my coaching gun for about 12 years, it’s a preowned Browning B525 with 30” barrels. It’s seen about 500,000 cartridges with me and to date has only cost me about £100 in spare parts. Lots of maintenance every week to keep it happy.
  15. I have 245/35R 20 Y95 front and 275/30R 20 Y97 rears on my BMW. But when I kerb an alloy it really gets kerbed. As for tyres, £110 each fitted. Just for added excitement in the wet.
  16. The annoying thing about "All In" is the servicing isn't "all in" at all - you've got to pay extra for things like brake fluid changes plus anything else the car "needs" beyond the most basic of servicing. Quite how VW Group gets away with this I have no idea.
  17. Thank you. I have emailed the agent at the dealer and suggested that she talk to someone at Skoda to try to agree on who is right on this. Until then, they won't get my custom and I will get the car serviced by a local VAG independent.
  18. The car is a 2020 model bought by me in 2023 from a main Skoda dealer with a 1year manufacturer warranty. I bought an extended 2 year dealers warranty which runs until December 2026. My main reason for pursuing this is that from reading posts on this and other forums, the Skoda warranty that is included with the service plan is more comprehensive than the dealer's policy. Although I highly rate the car, the thought of replacing an indicator unit or battery does concern me a little.
  19. 1 point
    I have HUD on mk4 and love it as I don't need to move my vision to check speed & other attributes. SatNav (Waze on Android) does show directions (which is useful) but is quite often wrong (not so useful) - it will show a turn & distance but often gets left/right wrong.
  20. 1 point
    That’s a question for someone with one. I know you can turn on/off various elements of it (like the digi dash), and would assume in line with VW and everyone else you can turn it off completely. @Watermead will know. I would go and drive one. I was dead set on a Mk4, before I drove one and decided that a Mk3.5 with a digi dash, ACC, etc, would be more comfortable for me (I’m young, but love my physical buttons!). HUDs aren’t a new thing - they’ve been around for years (albeit in a somewhat more simple format, in most cars). If it were me, and I was speccing a car like you, I’d probably go for it. Having just the speed and navigation directions there would be brilliant, and would probably help the resale. That said, I’m not sure how much the option is, so it might be a bit pointless. Go and drive one. Ideally Skoda, but CUPRA/VW/Audi will get the job done too. Everything will be a big shift from your Mk3, and there’s no point paying for something you won’t touch.
  21. Thanks for the replies, I think for £30 for a Bosch part I will just replace it rather than faff about, hopefully that will cross this one off the list! Cheers.
  22. Go to the doctors. Some years ago I suffered this symptom on long drives (Audi Q3). Turned out I had diverticulitis.
  23. Unless you live in one of those rare enclaves with billiard table smooth roads, I would go for the 18s. In most of the UK the road surfaces are too poor for biggest size possible. On my previous car I ran 18s with 45 profile summer tyres (that it came with) and 16 inch with 60 profile winter tyres, and every April when I changed back I cursed as it crashed and jolted on potholes and badly filled holes with raised tarmac, which didn't happen with 16s. Depending on the choice of rims you buy seriously affects any vanity (looks), the dark rims hide deeper tyres, and the silver ones don't look good if you kerb them. It is not just the size that affects looks, it is style and colour too. Be honest with yourself, why were you considering refurbishing existing wheels, probably because you hit kerbs (and don't come out with waffle excuses the kerbs hit you because you always drive perfectly). if it was me, go for smaller size wheels, and also fit premium all season tyres, then you can enjoy it all year round, without worry. This is a link to Skoda wheels catalogue (should be available through parts dept), note some types come in multiple colours (and in my opinion so colours look better) https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373
  24. I did mean to take some pictures but got so engrossed in what I was doing I completely forgot. The inlets all looked pretty clean, as good as any similar mileage engines I have dismantled in the past with conventional injection. This car has done 80,000 miles approx.
  25. Ok. Was just a suggestion as it worked for me
  26. No so, Ross-Tech have paid VW a huge amount of money and jumped through many 'hoops' required but VW move at a rate slower than most glaciers when granting access to the SFD system.
  27. 1 point
    @saneso - Your location shows as "Wales". Try for people with a Hunter rig and a reputation in South Wales, Avon or Gloucestershire.
  28. 1 point
    Retro fitting new cars with towbars is a real torture and a mess, as you, not only need to weld the towbar to the chassis, but also carve out a good bumper. Mind you, I'd advise you to get a car that is already factory fitted. It is quite popular in the Nordics as well. Hence, TSI 1.0 may be a great engine with 110 HP, as it's 3 cyl, it does lack the torque, which you could find challenging when trying to pull a caravan downhill (yes, downhill).
  29. PHEV Estate owner here (so no deep trunk floor). Got this from Amazon and works just fine: Amazon.fr : Gledring Coquille Coffre-arrière Rubbasol (Caoutchouc) Compatible avec Skoda Superb IV (NZ5) Kombi 2024- (Sol en Haut Variable), Noir
  30. 18s definitely. You can fit tyres with a larger sidewall. Very important here in the UK, with the state of the roads. More comfortable too. I had a Cupra with OEM 19s, and fitted 18s. I’ve a Yeti now with OEM 17s. I’ll be fitting VW 16s I’ve just bought.
  31. Thanks for the reply. The person 8n Bournemouth on that page you linked is apparently no longer active. I'll message AG Falco and see what he says. Cheers
  32. If you drive a sporty wagon like me you are already in a distinct minority. Most people buy SUVs and don't care about dynamics. I have access to to older classic cars and love driving manual and caused an uproar when I lived in the US by factory ordering a manual BMW330i M Sport and then an Infiniti G37S. I think the DSG in my 4.5 Octavia RS Combi is very snappy and nice to use and the reality is despite what others have argued almost no-one wants to drive a manual. I'm 56 and still have two motorcycles, I'm an ex racer. If I get too old to ride one day I'll get something like a Boxster GTS 4.0 to replace it and yes it will be a manual because it will be a toy.
  33. I can believe it. I'll happily use OBD11 for basic stuff. If I want to long code, I'll get the advice of someone that knows what they're doing. If you don't fully understand what you're doing, like with a lot of things, you can very easily f*** up what you're doing. Manchmal muss man menschen Fehler machen lassen!
  34. Sorry Sorry, I didn't mean to quote your post... I've now spent around €4,000-5,000 on software and equipment.
  35. 1 point
    I've got one on my 4.5......I glance at it occasionally, but after 40 years of driving I've been conditioned to looking at the dash dials. It has probably taken me a while to even just look at the digital numbers speed read out on the dials rather than the gauge itself. The HUD also does display some additional info with the lane keeping, other vehicles in front and collision warnings which is useful at times as well.
  36. Since posting I checked again. Only the estate is as described. The hatch back/saloon still has a two filament bulb with separate feeds for side and brake lights. Check your handbook for fuse function. Mine says fuse 13 is the diagnostic socket.
  37. Yes, it does seem like the issue goes beyond just door or seat sensors, especially if the system doesn’t warn you before or after it shifts to “P” during low-speed movement. That’s definitely not how it should behave. Still, insist with the dealer and, if possible, show them a video of the issue.
  38. Ooh that looks really nice! Might one day steal that idea!
  39. Im not sure he is TBH... Having driven quite a few autos I still very much prefer a manual but, as explained above, they are becoming much harder to find as manufacturers aren't making them even though they are wanted.
  40. The plastic flap is missing part of it. That is designed to go on both sides of the catch to stop stuff dropping down inside. That part is a spring to fold it back up
  41. Just an update as I think I might have solved the problem. I got ready by buying a replacement driveshaft. Luckily, I did not take it out of the sealed plastic…. So after thoroughly digesting my Haynes on the subject, I got ready to remove the bolt on the end of the driveshaft in the hub. Haynes said be prepared that the nut will be very tight. I had a 36mm 12 point socket poised on the nut with a long extension for max leverage. Quite surprising that the nut was not tight at all and even almost loose!! So the driveshaft must have been moving in the hub making the click noise. The driveshaft nut is a one use only and has wings on that interfere with the housing to prevent it undoing on its own. There were no wings left, just rusty stumps where they had been snapped off and so sometime in the cars history it has been off and then put on again rather than replacing and then gunned up. The edges were chewed showing excess use of the impact gun tightening it up. So I tightened it up thoroughly for a test round the block. Noise seemed to have disappeared. I bought two new Febi 12 point nuts and checked the other side too. That was fairly loose as well. So both replaced and all seems fine after torquing to 37 lbs ft plus 45 degrees. Moral of the story, if a nut or a bolt is single use, use it once then replace if it needs to come off again. Fingers crossed I can get a refund on the unopened driveshaft!
  42. and please keep your hands off the obd11 apps
  43. If there was an error in 'coding' the new battery then it might not be charging correctly - but that'd be all the time not just with shock vibration(s). Bear in mind a diagnostic isn't just plugging in a scan tool and just following the report or deleting error code (though it can be these sometimes checking and cross referencing is still required). Computers ain't always right and no errors codes doesn't mean there aren't problems with the car. Good luck, let us know how you get on.
  44. Is there power steering fluid in to the right level?
  45. I've no personal experience of either product, but there are Trustpilot reviews of both that would be worth you reading, particularly as you envisage needing to replace your Fabia's tyres annually. https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/alloygator.com?stars=1 https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/rimblades.com?stars=1
  46. Really interesting thread reading from start to end, my first Octavia was an ex demo MK2 Octavia 1.9TDI, beautiful car bought in 2004 and stayed in the family until 2022. Only got rid of due to lack of maintenance by my late father. Currently in a 2018 Octavia 1.5 which is a total Swiss army knife of a car and I love it. Bought at 3 years old. Toured all over Europe in it. Will cruise at speed all day, boot bigger than my old Touareg, Volvo V90 and other toys. Does everything brilliantly. Back to the question, biggest threats: 1) The dealer then was dodgy as hell, soon lost their franchise 2) The dealer now, near me, an absolute rip off, £700 for a replacement wing mirror and fitting. Its not an ultra premium brand and yeah £125 on ebay and 30 mins to fit myself. 3) VAG, the dieselgate fiasco. Cost / quality cutting 4) Model line up, I love the Octavia, Superb, Fabia and regret not getting a Yeti in 4x4. But bloody SUV's and electric ones? Worst of all worlds, ****e off road, heavy and handling compromised 5) Other manufacturers, beginning of this thread all Dacia. And man they have improved so much. New Duster looks epic. But its Korean or Japanese for me. And in reality the Chinese electric brands. MG4 is epic value for money if thats your thing. 6) Residuals and depreciation, insane pricing at new means that my preferred purchase point now which is at 3 years old is increasingly lifting Skoda outside of the amount of money I am willing to pay for a vehicle that is a utility to me rather than a fun toy Anyway my penny's worth

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