Leaderboard

I believe I saw a Lotus Elite or possible an Eclat on the road between Perth and Dundee, never seen one before

The new ABS speed sensor came with the postie this morning, once the rain stopped I got it fitted. This is a fiddly rather than difficult job, the sensor is secured with a single screw (T30 head) which is a bit difficult to get to. The plastic sensor was really hard to get out - I suppose 12 years of weathering had made its mark, but it did come out in the end with a bit of levering via a large screwdriver. The new part was even more fiddly to fit - I resorted to carefully cleaning the hole with an artist’s paintbrush, then using some silicone spray to lubricate - eventually it fitted into the right place, but this took a longer than the guy in the YouTube video. I’ve just started the motorcar and been for a short spin round the block. There are no warning lights, which is good, but then the warnings had cleared themselves previously and the fault was intermittent, so I may not know whether I’ve fixed the problem or not for some while yet. Fingers crossed!

Only done a small, dry mileage with the Contis but initial impression (against half worn summer Churchills) Quieter, despite the more agressive tread. More feedback on turn in. i.e. quality all season better than cheap summer which is perhaps no great surprise. Looking forward to trying them in some rain! I was fully expecting KF to find something to charge me for with their free alignment check but to my surprise it was "all fine, no charge!".

@travs tried your suggestion of listening for noise when turning temperature dial and yes there is a motorised sound each 0.5 degree turn up and down in dash so something is happening alright but heat only kicking in at 24+ @Gammyleg please see above update @NikiB please see above update

Messing with the wiring in a car is never a smart idea. It takes all of a second to press the stop/start button after starting the engine and the stop start is properly disabled.

I’ve railed endlessly about my M4 problems. The disastrous First Edition which I returned, Deaf and blind Skoda UK, the better but still flawed 2021 model that replaced it. Emissions sensors problems, random error messages which come and go, the intermittent gear selector lever error message which crops up regularly now. The nanny state compulsory ‘driver aids’, dangerous distraction of a touch screen. I’ve sold it and rolled back to a Mk 3. Best wishes and good luck to all Mk 4 owners.

No.

As a bloke, don’t we all forget to mention size? 🤣

5JA601025 is the CARME alloy rim. It's also available new from the Skoda accessory catalogue. The online Czech price is about £127...but the UK price can sometimes be about 20% more. The Skoda accessory catalogue uses different OEM part numbers...in the format xxx071xxx...so that Skoda can sell them at about 60% less than their normal prices. The alloy rims shown in the Skoda accessory catalogue can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number, eg. 5JA071495. CARME 6Jx15 ET38 alloy rim 5JA071495 (for Fabia MK3 and Rapid) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-carme-15-fabia-iii-rapid/p/5JA071495++8Z8 Make sure it's not a similar alloy rim such as the MATONE...as shown below. MATONE 6Jx15 ET38 alloy rim (not the same as CARME) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-matone-15-fabia-iii-rapid/p/6V0071495A+8Z8

Typo corrected in italic.

External EGR, where exhaust gases are fed back into the inlet manifold is rare or unheard-of lately in petrol engines. Tends to be done by valve overlap and adjustable valve timing now, I believe. I think from around 2006 petrol engines started shedding external EGRs, in VW group stuff anyway. Diesels naturally make more NOx and need more EGR (and latterly SCR/Adblue) to deal with it.

Of that list - get the Goodyear's - its what I have on my Fabia. Excellent tyres.

Correct. On the 1.4/1.5 EA211 there are only direct injectors but the 1.8/2.0 EA888 does have an extra indirect injector so on them an additive MIGHT help.

From memory if you have the display set to the one with the dials either side and then you can change what it shows in the middle. If you select trip data and go to overview option then when it is on the screen push the steering wheel button it will cycle through long range, since refuel and since start.

It's direct injection, surely, so won't go near any intake valves if it's in the fuel. Won't have an EGR valve either.

6V0919604C is just a display unit. Pls share VIN of your Fabia so I can check details.

I think for the side items you need to go into the settings on the MIB/Computer - I think you go to Car then there's a choice there to look at Digital Dash and you can change all of the different display options - I'm fairly sure you can change that to average economy for the trip as that's what I have.

Tell us why you need a complete ECU image of the car? I am very very curious why you are requesting this. Furthermore sharing a complete ECU image is dangerous, one never knows in which hands it this car config details in the end ends up with... In other words > NO WAY! Sure, you do not have to prove anything. Just be reminded that you made a huge fool of yourself here in this forum. You simply do not have the solution at hand for this Coming / Leaving Home question which you thought you would have, and are unwilling to admit / just pretending to know. Or in other words: Keeping up appearances, so to say.

You need to check the advert when you bought the car to see if it was listed. doesn't always work, as some list standard spec and put a little disclaimer note at end. But if they sold it with it advertised, seller should either buy it for you and add it, or rebate you the cost of you adding it from Skoda shop.

It could also be the antenna thats failing. Not DAB radio but my octavia stopped receiving certain stations. It was the amplifier in roof ariel that had water ingress. Alasdair

Dave, if you want to you can make your new battery last more than 6 years by very occasional preventative recharging of the battery either by driving the car or better still using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car and instructions for the charger maintainer. The stop/start not operating when it should is the first sign of a low battery, even though the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily, it's getting too low for the car's computers and they can then throw up all sorts of unexpected warning, unseen error codes and issues on the car. Let the battery get too low and/or too often then even with recharging the battery may not fully recover and possibly killed. Plenty of threads and posts on Briskoda about low state of 12v battery charge and the problems from that and posts about 12v battery maintenance. I've no idea why your garage had to phone anyone for a 'code', the actual VW battery 'codes' haven't been used for years, and 'coding' the battery is a very simple DIY job (with an appropriate scan tool which are a wide choice and very available) but must like all data input (typing) to a computer program must be done accurately and even professionals can make mistakes. A low battery state of charge, and health, will also put more work on the alternator as they work as a team. Your DAB issue may just have been a coincidence, or perhaps not help by low battery as the computers are very dumb and can easily get their panties in a twist, let alone their brain-farts.

Two things come to mind: At such high mileage, the inlet manifold might be completely blocked from carbon deposits. The injector port may also be gummed up. Seen this a lot on higher mileage VAG cars. Other thing to check - make sure you have good compression on all cylinders too.Try running several tanks of super unleaded (such as Shell V-Power) to try cleaning EGR/Inlet/Valves.

Not sure which engine type you have, but I based my comment on the fact that the single high-pressure oil feed that goes from block to head in most engines tends to be alongside or even coaxial with one of the headbolts. This means it is relatively unlikely to communicate with a water channel if the gasket does develop any leakage. Water channel into oil return (causing water into oil, not the converse because of the pressure relation), or across fire ring into cylinder will be much more common gasket failures, by a large margin. Oil coolers, as mac says, are way cheaper and easier to swap; and tend to carry pressurised oil in close proximity to coolant, which may have eroded/corroded the pipework over the years.

Sure, you can find it here : https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com

Two things go on here is the password on the SQL database the second one is an SHA lock to stop the files being tampered with. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SHA-1 SHA-1 was the one used in mib2. That one can't be home defeated unless you got security service hardware by brute force methods. Vag upped the anti by improving that further with longer keys. Those you see in the mib3 firmware. Currently in bed but i'd be very surprised that the SHA key lock isnt in the radio files as well. Vag got tired of hobbyists hacking the software. Mib2 firmware was only re-written by hobbyist enthusiasts because of a mistake in the turnstile of how POIs were imported in mib2. It was found that whilst the POI part was sealed with SHA-1 against change anything after it slipped in without checking. Only the hashes had to sum. Like someone sliding in behind you on an automated ticket barrier. The mib enthusiast group(s) then wrote all of the mods on that basis. All in one firmware (AOL). You can check whether your firmware is original in mib2 by inspecting for the signature lines at the end. No signature it's modded. Vag closed off this weakness by taking it away. Some people believe this is why poi import isnt allowed in mib3 although it appeared in the first manuals. Phonostar have the manufacturer keys to generate the import. The mib2 public key is the same whether firmware or maps. There is a method where you can hand run the software check in SHA-1 which mimics how it's done in the device. Degree level pure mathematics. Branch of cyptology that was developed within "pure" maths... it stopped it being pure then 😉. I've run that check and found the mib2 firmware is all manufactured with the same private key which will be closely guarded (due to the public key being the same). At that point after understanding how the files were locked up I gave up trying to twiddle with them. Then subsequent to that the turnstile weakness was found in mib2. The toolboxes of putting the green menu in the car all use the same turnstile hack. It sporned the AOL firmware and the in car tool boxes in mib2. So anyhow if you see banks of signature lines in the files that's what they are. A difference in those to the hash row which can be recomputed. Signature rows can't be.

I'm not sure why you made a link between the OBD11 apps and SFD, I didn't. I've made 2 unconnected posts recently on here: 1) Ross-Tech are working with VAG to enable SFD on VCDS 2) OBD11 apps have a history of making changes that have unwanted side effects.

If you're willing to travel a bit, I can thoroughly recommend Imperial Tyres in Swindon and Chris Mullins Tyres in Gloucester, both very good used both over the past few years...Imperial a little more expensive for hunter alignment but very thorough; and as they offer road force balancing, they were the only place to show me a very buckled wheel on my Cupra after about 4 other tyre places simply had a go at balancing it and either not noticed nor told me it was buckled, but happily charged me for not making it any better!

Just thought I'd mention that while going through the above threads I got the impression that many problems are solved by just doing a factory reset from the Settings menu in the infotainment. I did a factory reset a few days ago (it had been several months since I last did a factory reset) and almost immediately after doing so, an update appeared OTA (yes, it could just have been a coincidence but what if it wasn't?). I don't know if the update is a System Update or a minor update since the information provided about the update is limited. No id related to the update is mentioned f.eks. It was not proceeded by a question whether I wish to download the update or not (which I have read is the first question asked related to a System Update, since it usually is quite large). The first question asked in this case was whether I wish to install the update or not (like when it is a minor update) and after I selected "Update", the status message shown in the infotainment translated to english is something like "Update of software in progress" or "Updating software". That same message is still being shown now several days later, i.e. I have not yet received a message saying that the update is completed. I'll keep waiting until it either is completed or I have had enough and do another factory reset. Seems like Skoda/VAG are making changes from time to time so it might be a good first step to try a factory reset if you haven't done one in awhile and see if that triggers something which hopefully enables System Updates OTA.

Hi! Glad you enjoyed Portugal. :) I live 1h from Póvoa de Varzim. Regards

PM me if you like. Thanks. AG Falco

Did some digging and the following members have older cars AND are saying that they have received System Updates OTA: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522574-update-to-version-1969/ @TWB 1985 OTA, 5E3035816D H56, Octavia MKIV SE L 2.0 TDI Estate 2021 @Jip 1985 OTA, 5E3035816D H56, Octavia MKIV petrol 2021 (seems like Jip first received OAA2 (update of OCU, which might be the same update @spcdust has mentioned several times related to the fix of SOS,POP) before System Updates of OTA started working) @vran22 1985 OTA, 5E3035816J H58, mk4 2022 @RobL50 1985 OTA, H56, Octavia IV PHEV 2021 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527653-new-software-1985/ @cerz 1985 OTA, Octavia G-TEC 1.5 2022 @Davva 1985 OTA, 5E3035816H H56, Octavia Mk IV Estate SE-L 2.0 diesel 2021

Random thread to drop that in Occy 😝

This is a good page to decode fault codes: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes It might help some members on here if you post the engine code. You can find it on a sticker around the spare wheel area

01618 can mean wiring to (intake manifold pressure sensor)MAP sensor is faulty or sensor itself. If its the problem it would explain rough idle plus black smoke and smell of diesel. I would check wiring back to ECU and change MAP sensor. Not sure cause of 01166 but may be related. My old ocatvia used to randomly go into limp mode at higher revs. I suspected turbo veins but in my case the actuator was sticking. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and manually operated it until it was smooth and free. Problem was cured. Alasdair

Thank you for sharing! (additional info: @BeaverRS has not received system updates OTA and has a Skoda Octavia mk4 Nov. 2020 Combi TDI 150 (110)/DSG)

Have had this issue in the past and have documented it here. On software 1985 version now, but it has happened in the last few days again, kept the radio on and off overnight with the ignition off and car locked, and battery wouldn’t start the following afternoon. Two things I found have helped, screen cleaner on the screen and keeping the screen covered when not in the car. Might sound a bit cuckoo but it’s like when the sun hits the infotainment system and it gets hot, it starts going crazy and doing stuff by itself. I keep the infotainment covered now when it’s hot or when I’m out of the car and it seems to have worked.

Yes it does - I find it irritating on A roads - you head into a dip and the car applies the brakes only to 'kick down' a moment later to climb out of the dip - I find myself knocking the ACC off momentarily to avoid the car braking - I'm pretty sure the following vehicle must get ****ed off with the constant brake light show? The basic cruise is better inasmuch as it doesn't mind gaining a few MPH going downhill - but it does need keeping in check on longer downhill sections.

Day 28 in Workshop: New 'media unit' to be fitted yesterday or today... 'this will fix faulty massage and ventilation functions'. Waiting to hear how successful this is in reality.

In my Superb iV I prefer the B mode, it gets closer to the one-pedal driving model where I hardly ever have to touch the brake except at the final stages of slowing/stopping. The only downside is that when I drive my wife's petrol Mini I lift off the accelerator, and am still slightly surprised that it doesn't slow down much 😄 I think it just comes down to personal preference.

I guess it depends what you want from the drive. I've not had a Superb, but we did have a Volvo XC40 PHEV. Initially, I used B as I thought the regen would improve electric range. After a few months I went to D. Found no difference in range, but it was a smoother, more enjoyable ride. We now have an Elroq and again, started in B but went back to D. We still use B in town but get better out of town consumption in D. You just need to remember the extra weight of the battery and brake early enough. I know it's not a Superb, but hope this helps.

Plug straight into the socket and set the timing in the car - mine is set to 0% minimum charge (so it doesn't start charging straight away) and then charge between 23:30 and 04:30 each night.

Update: Had to chase the service department who have said they’re going to replace the battery under warranty as they believe that’s the problem. As I purchased it from another dealer it was clearly their fault they’ve not done the PDI correctly and the vehicle must have been sat for a long time which has caused the battery to fail etc etc… Explained I was confused as Škoda Assist said the battery health was good and yesterday the workshop thought the battery was fine and it was the software issues draining the battery causing low voltage. Apparently they're confident the software isn’t a problem and there will be an over the air update which will resolve the issues with the automated emergency braking issues and other safety system warnings. I’ve spoken to the dealer I purchased from who have advised me to accept it back and I can deal with them to resolve. Throughout this Škoda UK customer service have been awful. Not one apology or recognition that a new car shouldn’t have these issues, alongside constant mixed messages and misinformation! I’ll see how the new battery works but I’m not confident at all 😬

Update. By this morning, the two 'stuck' cushions had deflated, and the massage function works again. Looks like the system managed to reset itself at some point after powering the car down last night. Don't think I'll be using the function again until I've had a chance to speak to my local dealer workshop about it, though - don't want a repeat of yesterday, having to drive for a couple of hours with two lumps poking into my spine! Sadly, I think it's time to start keeping a log of issues I've experienced with this car, so that I can get it thoroughly checked out when it next goes in for some work (this is the third thing, following two separate instances of transient errors with the driver assist systems). When we're paying this sort of money for a car which is pitched as a more top-end offering, I can't help feeling that the quality should be better.