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Don't guess on this one. You can get kits to determine if combustion gasses are getting into the coolant. For me; an airlock would be an occasional 'burp' whereas a cylinder head gasket would be a constant series of gasses plus you can smell the combustion gasses in the coolant header tank.

Hi @Octawia , The same thing happened to me a month ago during our family vacation... In my case, it was perhaps even worse because the car did not respond to the keys (I could not unlock it), and I had to unlock it mechanically! I won't describe the whole situation, but it was a big hassle. The problem for me was that the car's computer "went to sleep" for some reason, bearing in mind that I had been driving the car an hour earlier! The solution, after I had tried everything else, We even supplied power from another car... To disconnect one of the two terminals of the 12V battery and after 5 minutes to reconnect it and the car started/Glow like christmas tree 🙂 I was very happy about that 😁 I went to the Skoda dealer a few days later and they told me that the problem was that the computer was going to sleep. After diagnosing the car, Skoda has a TPI, I think it's called, for the problem. The solution is to update several modules in the car. I'm not saying that this is the problem with yours, but it's quite possible that it is. Go to a dealer to have the car checked out.

Appreciate the kind words Gav, and yes nice spec Fabias are creeping up in price. With mine I’m confident it’s pretty unique in the market place, especially with the finish all over, so I’m looking for circa £10k for it.

It is located to the right of the dipstick and needs a large socket of I think 32mm ish, the sump plug needs a special tool available very cheaply and appears designed to stop over tightening. The sump plug is plastic so very important. You could use a screwdriver but not recommended, buy a new plug for piece of mind. It’s a simple enough process, drain off the oil, undo the filter cartridge, swap the paper filter, fit new plug and fill up with juicy fresh oil. I take it for a drive first to warm up the old oil, go have a cuppa and a bite to eat and then start above process giving the oil time to return to the sump. I use a trolley jack on one side to get enough space and an axle stand while removing the plug for safety, when the plug is removed and draining then drop the car back level and repeat the jacking after it is fully drained. Ramps may not allow all the oil to drain.

See @Ootohere's comment. I read the original thread and literally can't make any sense of it. In fact, I can't make any sense of their entire profile. Either this is the unluckiest and most confused person in the world, or it's someone that needs to find a job. A) Broken heater B) Key somehow loses charge after a day C) Car won't lock D) It's been stolen several times E) There is a draught coming from the floor At this point, we have to assume it looks similar to this - Of all the places on the internet to troll/have fun/scam people, who on earth picks a Skoda forum 😂

Couple of things. Firstly, the ADAS (Advanced Driver Assist Systems) is completely irrelevant - that's stuff like braking assist, blind spot assist, lane keep, etc. None of that will have a bearing on the alignment of the vehicle. For example, I recently replaced my control arms, and while the steering was all over the place, on the way to the alignment place the lane assist (as an experiment) had no issue keeping me straight. Secondly, the dealership should be able to do an ADAS recalibration - I'm not sure where else you'd really want to go to have one done. A PDI (pre delivery inspection) does not usually involve an alignment, so while the car should come straight and true, it's not uncommon for it not to. That being said, it's entirely possible for the suspension system of a car to be aligned and true, while the steering system is a bit wonky. It's not ideal, but it can happen - usually if the tie roads are replaced. In this case I'm not too sure, maybe someone slipped up on the assembly line - the car is usually aligned as it is built. The track rod ends/tie rods are the final link between the steering wheel and the wheels - by lengthening or shortening them, you adjust the angle of the wheel, relative to the rest of the rack. So yes, adjusting the track rod ends should sort this issue. That said, I personally don't think a car can be aligned, if the steering is off-centre. I would get them to sort the steering (tracking), which will also involve a full four wheel alignment. Sorted. Even on a brand new car, nothing will ever be perfect - within factory tolerances is all you're after. It's a brand new car though, so make sure they do everything - caster, rear wheels, thrust angle, the lot. An issue with the caster on my car is how I realised the front subframe wasn't in the right place.

You keep repeating 48V, but I think you are confusing PHEV and mHEV. The battery is 350V here.

Sometimes there are no Fault Codes logged for Spark Plug misfires if not enough in a cycle. But regardless the plugs need taken out and inspected regardless of faults logged or not. & the air filter inspected. Maybe nothing relevant but was it E5 95 ron Petrol abroad, and was the last fill up nothing to cause concern. Does it get E10 95 ron in the UK or E5 97 or 99 ron min?

Hello, welcome to the forum. From your description, it sounds as if you have a misfire under load - have the spark plugs been checked? Do you know if they have ever been changed? A DTC scan should show high misfire counts if faulty plugs or coil packs are the cause. Misfires can cause the EPC indicator to light up - Stop/Start will be inhibited when EPC is lit.

I’ve retrofitted the mk4 wheel on my car so that still has proper buttons

What he said ^ Most PHEVs will have some sort of connection either in the boot, or the engine bay. Is the second post in this thread true @Cairus? I'd phone Skoda - maybe a new battery is the preferred solution.

Then read your vehicle's manual. There is a connection for this in the engine compartment.

Didn't find anywere so as the title says here is how to remove acc cover Remove these caps. Put a screwdriver in to the hole press it and push forward. Acc radar.

Whilst fixing an ABS wheel speed sensor a week or so ago, I noticed that Carista reported an issue with the glow plugs on cylinders #2 and #4. I hadn’t had any problems with starting, but then it is summer and I’d fitted a new battery last year, but I decided that for the small cost (£37.70 delivered) I’d fit new glow plugs. This was a fiddly rather than difficult job. First one needs to remove four T30 screws that hold down the fuel pipes that run over the glow plug wiring, then open the plastic conduit that carries that wiring with a flat blade screwdriver to get sufficient play in order to pull up the plug caps. I used a pair of long nosed pliers to gently pull up the plug caps as the wires look quite delicate. With the wiring lifted up there is just enough room to remove the plug caps - #4 is particularly fiddly. I vacuumed the cavities before undoing the glow plugs, then used a long 10mm socket to remove each in turn. Some of the threads were a bit squeaky, but a bit of WD40 spray helped. The new plugs were easy enough to re-fit and torque up to 18 Nm. Of the old glow plugs, the impedances of #2 and #4 were clearly out of tolerance; #1 and #3 were fine, but I changed them anyway. Carista reset the fault and everything is fine. Hopefully I won’t have to do that job again for another 95,000 miles.

Sorry @JR RS @Robbo12 you beat me to it!

These mines tend to contain several minerals in the ore, tin, tungsten, arsenic as well as lithium and other minerals. I mentioned the security of so economics are sidelined. That said it does appear that Sweden has vast quantities of many key minerals. If we can rely on Sweden. They were "neutral" in WW2 I seem to remember. There will be ever increasing lithium battery recycling of course. Phone battery chemistry is the more rare earth chemicals as well as the lithium. Also laptop batteries of course. As well as recycling it is expected that sodium batteries will become more pervasive. No shortage of sodium of course. UK needs to stockpile to the right degree. Perhaps the LME should add to its reserves. My firm stores massive amounts of "Accumulolators" for car production. They comes in Zero duty under an Aurltonomous Suspension currently even though from 🇨🇳.

With the symptom you describe, I'd suspect a faulty earth connection on the light cluster. Has there been any recent damage or work on that corner?

Excerpt from the official Skoda Repair Guide: Reasons for calibrating the automatic distance control system The distance control control unit - J428- must be calibrated for the following reasons: ♦ The distance control control unit - J428- has been removed and installed or replaced. ♦ If the front bumper was carelessly installed and the distance control control unit - J428- collides. ♦ If the front bumper is damaged in an accident or similar. ♦ The axle geometry on the rear axle has been adjusted.

I had to replace the wifes battery in her 2017 Seat the other day , I encountered the same problem then found out to set the adaptation(even for the new battery) I had to put in a security code 20103 (it will be the same code for all VAG cars I was told) it worked on mine using VCDS HEX-V2. Hope this helps anyone else scratching their head with this problem.

I'd double check that they're doing it all, however the tech would have to be pretty special to try and sort the tracking and not the alignment. It's all done on the same machine, as part of the same process. Aside from that, hope you enjoy the car! Mine is a few years older, but I absolutely love it.

Have a look at this video from Mattias MY2026

It is charged while HV battery is charged. For sure battery is defected, as many were. Many of us here went through this. It comes to a multiple fw updates for ECUs and battery replacement. For most of us, that was the final solution. So no, PHEVs as they are not a problem as long as all fw problems are sorted and as long as you don't get that covid battery, which were sitting on a factory lot for a year. Still, some folks were saying it did not help them, which made me think their workshops did not update everything they had to.

Well, first things first - its time to get a scan of the car. I suggest investing in an ODBEleven system and if you can afford it, get the PRO subscription (helps you make coding changes etc). https://obdeleven.com/products That will give you the output from the ECU and different modules which should give you a lead on the issue. EPC - mean Electronic Power Control, i.e. the car is restricting its output for some reason. First things first: Radiators. Can you make sure that your radiator is clean and has good airflow? Wash it the coolant package with a hosepipe (open up bonnet and clean it off as best as possible) Second: Coolant. When was the last time your car had a coolant change? Should really be done every 5 years. Forget the "coolant for life" mantra. Also remove the Silica bag from the header tank and make sure it hasn't split. If it has, then you need a FULL flush (4-6 full flushes) to get rid of the silica as it would have blocked up EVERYTHING including the coolant channels in the engine block. Third: Electronics - make sure one of your coil packs isn't dying. Ideally should be replaced every 100,000miles as a set of 4. Use Bosch or OEM parts here. Using ODBEleven will show you misfire counters. Fourth: Airflow - undo the 8 screws from the air box and make sure that the air filter is nice and clean and hoover out any crud in the airbox. When you were experiencing the issue with the loss of power in France, did you notice the temperature creep above the 90C mark on the dash? Other things to check: oil - make sure to check the oil is at the correct level and hopefully you have a service of the last oil and filter change on the car. Should be running VAG 504/507 spec oil (5W30)

thank you for this - yes. I wish now that I had insisted they flushed the entire system properly rather than accepting what they told me and paying them for a job half done/badly done. I'm on the look out for a mechanic who's prepared to do the job - as well as take the money for doing it!

The service arrived this morning and we jump started it. It's definitely related to the 12V battery or it's related circuits. As the PHEV always starts in EV mode by default, I actually found a way of over-riding it. Press the brake and the accelerator in the same time, press the start button, then the petrol engine starts. Try not to over press the accelerator as you may fry the turbo at start. Then let it run at idle. I also found out that the only way to recharge the 12V battery is by recuperation as these cars don't have the traditional alternators anymore. So, if your battery has drained for some reason, you need to drive it around like an hour or so. That kinda sucks. I've been reading a lot other discussions regarding the battery on the Octavia 4 PHEV TSI Combi and it seems like this is a common glitch with the Skoda PHEVs. I'm calling it "Skoda PHEVs" not VW because apparently Skoda has placed in more electronic stuff compared to VW models, causing it to drain faster; I never had a problem with my T-ROC before. So, whatever you do, the 12V battery doesn't recharge enough and eventually it will drain empty until a poor soul like me gets stuck. (This also may explain why it was a bargain🤦‍♂️) I've driven it around for an hour but when I switched off the engine, boom! it all went again for the 2nd time!! 😭. So, I will now call the Skoda road assistance one more time. This time at least I can leave it at home until I get an appointment from a service (in Finland, service stations are always booked, probably give me an appointment for 10 days or more later). I found this video on Youtube, which explains the problem and less of the solution Hybrid 12v Battery Care - The Truth About The Hybrid 12V Battery Problem: What You Need to Know - YouTube

Just an FYI - on my 2020 Octavia I was (for some reason) unable to code it in with VCDS. Apparently the car has a locked gateway. I had to go down to my VAG indie that has ODIS. As has been said, the days of simply swapping the battery over ended over ten years ago. This 'specialist' might not be very specialist. Either an EFB or AGM will do. Just get the correct battery for the car and get it coded in.

Gosh, there is a simple way to do this which is to fit the right battery and then code it to the car. Coding is little more than telling the ECU "new battery fitted" it's not magic! A lot of DIY OBD devices allow battery coding and I'm pretty sure all pro ODB devices do. Yes there are all sorts of things you can do as an alternative including just bunging in a new, roughly the right capacity, battery. None of those solutions are optimal despite the fact that most of them will work without apparent problems. I'm out of this thread now - all the best.

Well done, good fault finding. I was not thinking in this direction at all I have to admit.

Having been put on the right path by Jimbo’s thread, I investigated the sensors. The Skoda was on the Kwiklift ramps anyway to change the rear brake pads (the Kwiklift just about fits - with some assistance from some rubber pucks I found on Amazon - I’ll post a photo once the motorcar is jacked down): The rear sensor looks fine, but as you may see from this photo, the shaft that attaches the front one has sheared through and through: I’ve removed the bottom bit from the motorcar as it it’s not doing anything, it looks like the ball joint seized leading to the shaft breaking. It looks to me like that probably happened quite a while ago. This looks like the right part, and only cost £20: Headlamp sensor Alan

Just adding this "info" For a while, there was a bit of chattering going on on maybe a VW forum, where people replacing the engine coolant on these EA211 family of engines, just removed the small pipe from the coolant reservoir, extended it with another length of pipe and pointed that into a 10 litre or so bucket, then started the car up while having "enough" premixed new G12evo beside them, and fed all this new coolant into the reservoir as the car pumped the old coolant out into the bucket! Maybe doing that would flush out any collected air if you've needed to open up the system. Just a suggestion, though I'll be aiming at using my Draper coolant refill vacuum kit when I replace the coolant in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS.

@GiscoYeti , I was a bit concerned about you being able to "double the power" with your new battery, the "power" is the CCA or Cold Cranking Amperes and there are maybe 3 ways to rate/describe this, ie DIN which yields a very low value, then EN or SAE which method yields a value that is almost twice the DIN value/rating.

Mine had this issue, it would not discharge battery even overnight, not even mention in 10 minutes like in OP's case. Octavias are actually known to become completely dead when voltage drops, with no prior warning. Been there myself. @Octawia can't really think what could be wrong in your case apart of defective battery, which coincidentally died at exactly this moment after being loaded by central lock. Does not seem too probable, but again, tons of cars with defective batteries out there, and I can't think so far of another explanation. I would check battery voltage first thing. Also, it is not such a big of a problem to tow the car from underground, unless it is some extremely tight spot. Pickup truck picks the front, rollers under the rear wheels and here we go.

It certainly sounds like the battery might be on the way out. 1) find a reputable garage that knows how to code in your new battery. 2) have them do a check on the battery 3) have then do a check on the alternator to make sure it's charging. 4) depending on 2 and 3 either get a new alternator or new battery or both. 5) have the new battery coded in to the car. The symptoms you describe sound more like battery than alternator. In any even what happens is the cars ECU makes a decision about using stop start. If it thinks the battery is a bit low it will deactivate stop start. A lot of short trips, engine still cold, use of the AC will all be factors the ECU uses to decide to activate or deactivate stop start. If you've read the above you'll understand the ECU needs to know how the battery is working, what it's state of charge is etc. This is why you need to code in a new battery. The ECU will go through a learning process to understand the exact characteristics of the new battery. This, in turn, will ensure the greatest possible battery life and minimise problems that could be associated with under or over charging the battery.

This what it currently looks like, need to find at least a new brake MC & suspect the clutch will be the same

It works fine from a Mac. I’ve updated over several years with the files on a Mac transferred to a USB stick. Just needs an empty drive, use freeware Cleanmydrive if you need to to ensure no extraneous files. The crucial factor is often the USB drive, some just don’t work, no idea why

i would find a battery supplier that actually knows what they’re doing and get your battery tested and if a new battery is required , fitted and coded as is required.

A week or so ago I was driving locally when I got a Christmas Tree of error lights flash up on the dashboard. Started with ABS, then stability control, then parking system, cruise control sensor, tyre pressure, blah blah.... Cleared them all with the OBDeleven I bought a year or so again (recommended on here). Drove down the road and the lightshow repeated... Quick search on here, found a thread describing similar symptoms, ordered a new ABS sensor off eBay for £18, half an hour to get the wheel off and fit it, clear the errors again, check it worked - and all sorted! What a great and useful site this is!!

Yes, that is what I did of course. It flagged rear left, so first thing I did was check connection and then clear the codes to see if it repeated (which it did a few yards down the road).

Correct. I have aftermarket Webasto installed. I had problems with rechanged battery about half a year ago (solved), so I tend to monitor the situation from time to time. Webasto app shows charging voltage as well as the resting voltage. Usually I have 12,8 in the mornings. 12,8V is considered to be 100% of the charge level for AGM.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd recommend getting the battery tested first - and check the alternator charging rate. You shouldn't need to disconnect the battery to find its details, they should be on a label on the top (likely near the positive terminal) - but disconnection will not cause any issues provided you always ensure that the negative terminal is disconnected first - this is to prevent any risk of short-circuiting live positive terminal to vehicle chassis. The battery type (AGM or EFB) and capacity is the only important data - the existing serial number can simply be input by changing the last digit if the battery does need to be replaced.

I suspect its a Euro 5 vehicle. If you are based in the UK, then you should check https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall to see if the vehicle has a recall against it for the Euro5 fix. IMHO....if I was you, I wouldn't touch the car if it hasn't had the work done.

Would need to know the VIN to check. It may well be that some markets didn't fit an alarm as standard, but it would surprise me a lot if no Octies at all had alarms over that period.

Brakes are done. New Mtec Discs and Textar pads for the 312/256mm octavia setup on this. Also got new slide pins, some bolts etc all new. Don't mind the rust on the faces so much, i'd washed it and put it away Rears while working fine looked a bit scruffy Front pads were poorly. Forgotten they were mtecs own pad. Theyve been squealing this while. In all fairness to them, they did hold up pretty well in all. Took my time cleaning up heat shields and such Paint job on the calipers is good from far, but far from good Arches really need a good clean up Not actually driven it more than a few miles since, paint/coating on the discs hasnt even worn off it. Initial impressions are very good and so far quiet as can be.

I have gradually worked my way through most of this very long (!) thread and have found some useful information which I summarise below together with some comments on my experience for what its worth... It may save someone having to trawl through the last 117 pages! Firstly, I think that perhaps some posters expect a little too much perfect running with a cold engine and are therefore disappointed. (I know some said they had problems warm as well). In 'the old days' you really did not expect any engine to run perfectly smoothly before it had warmed up fully. You pulled out the choke (or it had an automatic choke) and it stuttered along for the first five minutes or couple of miles until it settled into its operating temperature and designed performance parameters. I still wait a couple of minutes before driving off and this also has the essential advantage of getting oil circulation up to full pressure before stressing the engine. This has served me well as I have run several car engines to 180-200,000 miles without major problems. I can never understand those who start their car and then drive off within literally a second or two. My recently acquired 2nd hand Karoq [1.5 tsi manual, DADA code, manufactured Mlada Boleslav circa ?end2017-early2018] when it is started, first idles at 1250rpm, drops to 1000 after 15sec then to 750 after about another 30 sec. I never drive off before then. Switching on the aircon makes the idle rise to 900rpm as the ECU automatically compensates for the increased power demand. I have not experienced any marked 'kangaroo-ing', ...not any more than a slight hesitancy between 0-10mph before the engine fully warms up and therefore not far off what I might expect from a 'coldish' engine. Albeit measured in the current warm summer weather. It did seem however to lack progressive power delivery between 1000 to 2250rpm and I had to slightly over-rev to achieve smooth upward gear changes. Again some might say this is what you expect with a turbocharger that only kicks in from about 1500rpm upwards. (I do not seem to have the Variable Turbo Geometry in my DADA engine as others have.) Nevertheless, after an ECU software update at my local dealership, the car has improved quite markedly. The drive feels much smoother and specifically: (a) the power delivery between 1000-2250 is more progressive and consistent; (b) there is no jerkiness in 2nd gear even at low rpm such as 1000-1250 and I can accelerate smoothly from there; (c) I can actually trickle along in 3rd on level roads at 1000rpm without problem; (d) some damping action has been applied in the software to stop accidental over-revving on gear changes -- whereas previously when accelerating hard I had to be very careful in synchronising clutch depression and easing off the accelerator, but now, even when deliberately pressing the clutch 1/2 sec before easing the accelerator, the revs are held at the last peak value before dropping as you ease off. One or two minor bugs in the software also seem to have been ironed out. For example, long pressing the 00-Set button on the dash should bring up the Service Interval info but it never did. It now behaves as specified in the Handbook. The most useful tables I have found in this thread (from other posters) are below: Dealers do tend to deny the existence of ECU updates but armed with the software version table I managed to persuade my Skoda dealer to at least check which version I had. I was fortunate enough to talk to the technician while he was doing the update and I had my original yr2018 05E906018P ver5472 updated to 9752. They download it from the Skoda servers on demand and it is probably best to bring both your keys along when you do an update as I believe it may require your keys recoded if it affects the immobiliser module. Good luck if you decide to pursue this update path but I certainly found an improvement.

And effectively subsidised by us mere mortals who are expected to pay nearer list price. My charity funding doesn't include contributing to someone else's car, so count me out unless Škoda price the car fairly.

I had that problem only a couple of weeks ago. I found some images on an Audi forum showing how to orientate the spring into the correct position. Eight hours later I gave up and ordered a replacement unit from Ali Express. £4.27 delivered.

Well my 2024 Monte Carlo rear vents certainly aren’t just for decoration and work faultlessly without other vents being closed or fan on max. Climate control on mine always set to auto, ac on and temp set to 20°C all day every day summer and winter.

Suspension ordered and arrived waiting to be booked in. Went with Bilstein B16 Damptronic adjustable coilovers as it was cheaper than what I could find getting a set of B6s and Eibach springs. They lower 30mm-50mm (current arch gap looks to be c.60mm so halving that will be more than enough) so got to research top mounts (might as well replace them) but I think @MartiniB has some comprehensive ideas around that. Superb bearings and Arteon Top Mounts look to be the ones...

Because the tank is full of air....not coolant. The prongs probably detect coolant conductivity which the coolant is alot more conductive than air. Because the tank is full of air, air likely come out of the cooling system as the coolant circulation happens. When you open the cap, the pressure of the air is released to the atmosphere, so the coolant comes back into the tank. The air pressure in the tank had been holding it down in the engine and other pipes. Coolant tank now has coolant in it, so warning goes off. I'd say this is the issue. I'd keep topping it up as needed Question: Does the coolant tank show low in the morning when the car is cold? Next time you get home, have a look at the level, see if it comes up overnight as the air in the tank cools and contracts a bit.

@dilino 4x Footwell lamps r the same type I believe. 1x glovebox 2x boot (for liftback)