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Find a new dealer, for two reasons: 1) the advice regarding cambelt replacement was changed by Skoda UK several years ago so 5 years is no longer valid. 2) on the 1.4 & 1.5 engines the cambelt and water pump are on opposite ends of the engine so replacing them both together is not needed or advised.

I was so close to trying to chase a phantom wiring fault from under driver's seat towards the airbag module where these wires go. That would've driven me more bonkers!

I knew a 2012 car was going to be too clever for me! 😆

That's great, thanks @Robjon . I experimented on the way home with variously heavy items in various positions on passenger seat. Doesn't take a great deal of weight. Problem solved, I think. :)

Hi all. Newbie here. Recently bought a Diesel 2018 Mk3 (facelift)estate vrs 4x4, and im in love 😍 Just a little howdy to you all. Looking forward to plunging into the site! Peace!

OK I have managed to successfully complete this job without removing subframe. Here are my tips. Grind head flat. Punch in centre Use colbalt drills. Start with 4mm go up to 8.5mm in 1mm increments. Use a lot of cutting oil. x1 colbalt fluted HSS tap 10x1.5. Tap 1/4 turns, rotate back. Clean and add cutting oil frequently. Be prepared to tap 1hr per hole. Buy genuine bolts. Good luck if you ever need this advice.

Going by Pete's post a bottle of wine I believe would weighs ~ 1.1Kg so I reckon 1.5 Kg would do it. A handbag can weigh anything between 1Kg and I reckon 50Kg going by how much crap some contain 😂

@Alistair Have you changed a cambelt on a Euro 6 TSI? I see you have various diesels showing. A 1.5 TSI ACT is £850-£1,200 done by a main dealer. Without the water pump doing.

After 3 days waiting, the Skoda authorized service gave the diagnosis. Apparently one of the BCM (battery control module) module firmware was out of date and it caused the 12V battery drain itself even when the car is in off mode! As I had service insurace, the towing (twice in a day), jump starting etc. was covered, but for some reason upgrading of the BCM firmware was not. As car had only been inspected by the same service only 2 weeks ago, they accepted the diagnosis cost, so I only had to pay 120 eur for the upgrade. That's a number I guess I can give with. Though I admit, I lost confidence in the car. I mean only a month ago, I drove this car 7500 km across Europe, believing that it's trustworthy. But a simple bug could have made my trip horribly wrong. I am fortunate that I drove around 750 km/day so the percupiration saved me. By the way, the service also confirmed that the only way to recharge the 12V battery is by percupiration process. As a back up solution I've decided to buy a small jump starter pack, which is the size of a VHS tape (youngsters won't know what that is !) generally a small box packed with batteries, capable of supporting 800A/1000A, just good enough to start the car up. It's quite nifty and handy. It's good to keep one charged all times in the boot. It costs around 30-50 eur for a decent one from Amazon. Anyway, I'm grateful for all of your help. Summary: Reason: BCM Fault Solution: BCM firmware upgrade and recupirate until the battery is recharged. Risk: It can happen to anyone with a PHEV or EV. Carry a small jumpstarter pack.

I'm half tempted to test on my Rapid the weight which sets it off. Maybe something to do at the weekend 🤷‍♂️

Yes - but I cannot remember whether I was in my Scout or my SE. I was helping my niece to move home and had put something heavy on the passenger seat, possibly a microwave. I stopped the bong by fastening the seat belt around the microwave.

@wyx087 Actually teachers and others do drive to school, and there are places where the 6th year pupils cars are nicer than the staffs. Driving instructors wait outside the school to pick up pupils. In Scotland there might be some that got their exam results the other week and will be staying on a quite possibly getting a nice new car. Or mum is an the youngster gets to use it. Around £20,000 neither here nor there to some parents. Then they might need the car for when they go to Uni. Social divide. 3 phase EV charging at home on the farm.

If you go to erWin Skoda and register an account (free to do so) you can then click on the link a little below the register button on the homepage and view ">Approved oil types". Amongst the list for 504/507 oils that have been tested and approved by VW group, there is a fair proportion (maybe 30%?) of the oils in the long list that are 0W30 rather than 5W30.

Be advised that, for whatever reason the lighter oil was specified, some engines are optimised to run on it. I have a DKTB EA888.3 that runs on 0W-20 - bearing tolerances and a variable speed oil pump mean running a heavier oil might not actually be the best thing for it. Traditionally yes, a lighter oil offers less protection at operating temp. However, with tighter bearing tolerances and a pump designed to keep a thinner oil at higher pressure, all around the engine, from what I've seen the effect is the same. Advice from various places is to stick with manufacturer recommendations, unless heavily tuned. If the car is designed/recommended to run on 5W-30, why change it? Most people have issue with the viscosity when cold (0W). VW 504/507 was 5W-30, seems now it has changed to 0W-30.

I have a 220, MY17 with the CHHB EA888 Gen 3 engine. It's been serviced by Skoda with Castrol Edge 5w-30 since day 1, for the first 5 yrs of it's life. Since then, out of warranty, it's been serviced at a Euro specialist with Mobile Super 3000 5w-30. Both oils r VW504/507 approved. 8 yrs plus now on 5w-30 for Gandalf. It has been tuned for more that half its life. I'm pretty sure it's the same oil used with the 280 pre-facelift Superb.

As above, if a garage/dealer is suggesting they need replacing, find a new one!

When I had the car serviced in March I asked them to check the air con and regas if required. They came back and said that they had carried out a leak test and there is a leak, but they didn't know where the leak was. The cooling got worse, so I contacted a local guy (15 miles away) who came out did the leak test and confirmed that it was the condenser. He fitted a genuine VW condenser for £390 + vat. I don't know how that price compares, but he turned up when he said he would and did the job with no fuss. He charged me what quoted me.

@barcudcoch light misting is very normal with VAG. I would assume over half VWAG cars have 'light misting of oil' on their MOT sheets. Misting is different to leaking. Leaking means you need new shocks, misting means your shocks have oil in them and are working. As @Paws4Thot says, MOT testers write so many things as an advisory - under trays, tyres, pads, wipers, rust, wear and tear - the list goes on. Ignore it, move on. Problem solved.

Today I had the air con condenser replaced on the L& K. Nice and cold in the car again.👍

I’ been emailed a 15% off offer for Remote and Infotainment renewal, valid from 11th to 31st August. I think because my car was first regd on 1/9/2023. I was going to renew when they expired in Dec 25 anyway, so now they expire in Dec 2026. £68 instead of £80.

Hi my Skoda superb lights not working i have changed battery. fuses are ok. seat warmer not working. ambient light foot light and sunroof light not working. when i start the car screen reduces its light. they say that body control module has to be changed and coded. is there any other option. can this bcm ( 5Q0937084CG ) fixed. Sorry for my English.

Ah, I can see now that both the black plastic part AND the grey or now white part get changed as a single set of bits. I tend to get suspicious when a car manufacturer changes the body colour of a part, it is not normally just down to a change of available material, the change tends to reflect a significant change in that part, ie it required modifying, and to be easily identified when or if the later part has been fitted. Replacing the spark plugs on these engines, is, in my mind not a job for a beginner in this "car work" stuff, even a local VW Group Indie in South London managed to mess up the charge pipe assembly when taking the air filter assembly off my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona - and either did not notice what they had done or just didn't want to report that that car now needed a new charge pipe! I only bumped into that mess when I removed the air filter to replace the spark plugs, but time did not allow for me to source a new part before they headed back down South. What had happened was that while the charge pipe is a single assembly, it gets fabricated from two parts and a sealing part, the 2 parts ad been pulled/ripped apart so there was now a gap in the charge pipe, not a good plan if you want to keep crap out of the turbo inlet! Taking the coils off requires using a specific tool or being very careful and new spark plugs need a ring of proper non conducting paste applying to the ends of the coils possibly to avoid the coil "contacts" from grabbing/gripping the ceramic on the spark plugs - which would need to extra work getting that off the plug after it had separated from the main part of the coil. All that is easy stuff when you have all the tools and paste - and an idea what you are up against. The strong constant tension clips on these air cleaner pipes are best removed using the correct sort of tool.

Until I looked at the wiring diagram this morning I had no clue this car had any such thing. Bloody modern nonsense. I actually tried briefly to disable the whole seatbelt warning system with VCDS, but it didn't look as simple as a youtube video seemed to suggest, so I bottled it for fear of knobbing something else up. I mean, what sort of idiot needs reminding to put their seatbelt on in 2025?

Updated. Thank you very much

Had exactly this fault on our fabia mk3 (2021 Monte Carlo) a few months ago - changed the charcoal canister and all been good since It is possible to tell if it is the canister which gets contaminated with fuel if you overfill the tank by weighing it - a new one weighs 900grammes - if the one fitted weighs more than 1000g it will need replacing It is situated behind the drivers side rear wheel arch liner and once you remove that ( and the wheel) the canister is clearly visible and is held on by just one bolt and 2 clip on pipes New one was £88 from main dealer - they had 3 in stock so seems to be a common issue

It might be that the pump that fits into the reservoir has come loose. The rubber seal failed on min and drained tank. I agree with sealing off pipe. You could plug it and kink it using a cable tie and then tie up out of road. Refill tank and see if anything is leaking. Alasdair

Not a Roomster but SWMBO's MkV Golf would bong if there was something a bit too heavy placed on the seat and the belt not buckled..

I saw on here a MK3 with similar problems but a 23 plate MK4 should have lasted a bit longer. Can't see there being a problem re waranty and if there is threaten to publicise the fact thats its only done 10k. Sons went on his MK1 after 20 years/66k when I was driving it which I would expect due to the age of the car. Dont touch it as his grinded away and then dropped straight down and wouldn't go up again. Nightmare drive home as it was -12C and road covered in slush. Took hours for my head to defrost. Alasdair

I've just renewed my Care Connect remote access. Doesn't run out til December but thought I'd extend it now and save a fiver (£31 instead of £36)

I'm not sure if this will work on these d clips, but on the 'regular headlight ones ' which can be a pain, I put a narrow screwdriver into the body between the two bits that separate, rather than the tab part. I then find that eases the two parts apart without breaking the tab/clip ..?

Thank you, Alisdair. Battery and alternator have been checked and are fine. Now have a period when I don't need to use the car so can leave the battery connections (with the radio fuze removed) and see if there is a drain on the battery.

Back to school!? Do those going back to school drive? Any excuse for a sales event. Good deals though. back-2-school-sale-event Only £250 off for Dolphin. Could be better.

Blue exhaust smoke on overrun will be burnt lubricating oil - either from worn/damaged oil control rings, worn valve stem seals, or faulty turbo seals. How much lube oil is being used ? The first test should be to get a compression test done.

Well aware i'm talking to myself but it may help people in the future... there's nothing worse when people complain about an issue but never update the final result on a forum. More wires have failed in the left hand side tailgate wiring which is what is presumably causing my issue!

Wow, that's quite a difference from the £20 parts I've seen for other purge valves on other models. Taking this into consideration, I think it's unwise of me to try and change this myself. If I get a mechanic to change this over, I could get them to change the spark plugs at the same time-I should have done this when I done the other service jobs but this seemed more difficult. Thanks for taking the time to research mate.

OK thanks for your help. I will speak to VAG and see what they say.

What colour is the smoke coming from the from exhaust ? black, blue, whitish like steam ? all have different symtoms and repairs please advise what engine code if you know it as some models have generic faults so this can help

I have a late 2016 2.0 Tsi 4x4 (280) and all service records say Castrol Edge 5W-30 was used, I personally have used the same since I’ve owned it. Just looking online I only see 5W-30 listed as being 504/507 specification and none were 0W-30? Maybe just me not searching thoroughly enough?

Of all of the Skoda's that I've owned this is the 1st one that has required a repair to the air con system.

Thanks @travs , that’s really helpful. No point investing in the ozone machine if it’s only going to give a temporary masking to the smell. When out the other day, I did set the fans to full speed, directed to front and closed the individual vents so air was forced through only one open vent at a time and a small amount of dust and debris popped out of each, so that must have helped. I think you’re right with regards to removing the door cards, as there’s no doubt ash hiding in them, and probably behind the speaker grilles too. I can also clean the door frames and might take the opportunity to stick a bit of Dynamat in while they’re in pieces. I’ve already unbolted the front seats to vacuum all the nooks and crannies and I wiped down the frames as best I could; maybe I need to give them a deeper clean, as it only takes a few minutes to unbolt them. I’ve got a couple of days off in a couple of weeks, so a job for then. Thanks for your advice! Nick

The car has to go back to the dealership to have its second key programmed, so if I don't get time to fiddle about they should sort it at the same time.

It's not the most generous space to work in, but it's most likely been disconnected for the box to be dropped. I think it's very unlikely to have gone at the same time!

Definately worth knowing, but if you've ever wondered why it is so difficult to get to those levers on autos, it's because the most likely cause of the box refusing to come out of Park is if your brake switch has failed, which means you don't have any brake lights and shouldn't be driving it. So it's really only for recovery/garage purposes.

There is another way: Open the car. Open the boot. Get in the car and shut all the doors but not the boot. Push the car door lock button on the dash. Get out of the car via the boot. Close the boot. This locks the car, but wont turn the alarm on. Thanks. AG Falco

I'd love it even more in BRG.

Hello everyone! I've used Briskoda in the past to search for issues and problems, but given that I can see Skodas being in my life for the foreseeable, I thought I'd join properly! Currently driving a 2019 Kodiaq, Auto 2L Petrol, but have had a Roomster and a Citigo in the past. Will be interested in people's experiences of the Enyaq and Elroq in a few months' time when our electric lease is up 😁

I've just seen a few now with either part history, lots of work needed or failed MOT's. I'm starting to wonder if i'd be better looking at other dealers, not just Skoda and finding one that has been well looked after. Will keep looking.

UPDATE - installed quickly, without any drama. Download file onto a Class 10 95mbs SD card. Selected update from SD/USB and drove for an hour. System re started and all maps installed OK.

Think I stayed previously - Ozone won’t work on non-organic smells. The Ozone machine basically splits Oxygen molecules and adds them changing O2 molecules to O3 I think. This means it’s unusable to organic organisms, including bacteria, and they die. It won’t have any effect on a chemical smell. It might mask it for a bit (as Ozone has a distinct smell apparently but have never smelt it) but you shouldn’t be breathing it in anyway and should air out the car after an Ozone machine session. I think you’re definitely doing the right thing by getting into nooks and crannies. Other options might be taking door cards off and cleaning behind those. Or even taking the seats out to make sure that the seats can be cleaned thoroughly as well as all the little gaps underneath and around.