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Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Hi, everyone! I've got a Kodiaq iv since last november '24. It counts 15.000km so far. Hoping to share interesting info with you from the Basque Country, Spain.

My understanding is that all grid-connected PV systems in the UK must not operate in Island Mode when the grid supply is down.

It sounds like a tracker or other electronic device such as a dash cam.

As an aside, our Fabia has just gone into our local VAG indy for an air-con regas so I asked how they deal with this fault on Fabias - and the answer was they replace the entire selector, which would be north of a grand (expensive part and a fair bit of labour as we'd all deduced). So I suspect this is going to boil down to whether any given garage is willing to do the sort of thing I have just done - and putting myself in their shoes, I have to say that I can understand why they might not be happy hacking a component about to make it fit.

Here in leafy Worcester Warndon Villages sweet suburbia I would say it seems about half the houses solar panels on the roofs, some even on NW,N or NE facing, how does that work out ? Some good (ie bad) solar sale persons there. Impossible to tell how many have home batteries coupled with their solar. We need a good long power cut to see who is lit up like Crystal Palace and who is on candles. (even more dangerous than batteries I would be reckoning?) EVs between 1 and 3 per household, the odd ICE dinosaur juice car still around sadly, waking the neighbours when starting off. Not like my Jean Michelle Jarre singing car. Love Skoda advert..... Same geniuses who did the fantastic VW adverts of the last decades past it seems.....

Maybe because he said it has 95RON on the fuel flap

A little update to this topic. So I changed my thermostat on the weekend and also flushed my coolant system with distilled water to get the old G13-coolant off the system and filled it with new G12 Evo-coolant. The issue that i was having with the engine running a bit cold in my opinion was the cause of the original thermostat stuck partially open, so the coolant didnt ever warm up over about 85 Celsius even when there was hot summer days with outside temps at 30 Celsius and driving on motorway at 140kmh. Also the oil temp hardly never reached over 100 Celsius in Summer. So after changing the thermostat the coolant temp reaches 92 Celsius when the outside temps at the moment in September are at between 6-15 Celsius and the oil gets to just about over 100 Celsius. Also the car gets up to temp faster in my opinion. So problem solved👍

For (say) a 2023/2024-built Skoda Fabia with the 1.0-litre 3-cylinder petrol engines, the lower-specification SE Comfort and Colour Edition models had (as standard) a 80hp or 95hp unit with a 5-speed manual, gearbox, while the SE L model (like my 2024 version) had a 110hp motor with a six-speed manual gearbox or (optional) 7-speed DCT automatic transmission. Fuel consumption will depend on where and how the owner drives the car.

Forgot to mention about the brakes ... the slider pin section of the caliper bolts were bone dry, with a solidified hint of a dab of grease put long time ago. Once properly cleaned with scotchbrite and greased, the movement within the support was like .... night and day. I was surprised because usually I see this in much much older and more "traveled" vehicles .... I recommend to all of ya that have passed some years or mileage, set aside some time, especially if your swap tires, to remove bolts and verify, and ensure are in proper maintained condition! It is a simple job, does not require specialized tools, just some patience and care.

So I'm loving the new FL 4.5 Octavia RS. We know that it doesn't have the sound actuator of the Mark 4 and sound so much better for it with its 'sports' exhaust. There are no settings in individual mode for exhaust settings. However the subtle pops on the over run that you can hear both inside and outside the car only occur in Sports mode, not any of the others including individual. So my question is what is making this noise? Is there an exhaust valve after all that is only activated in sport mode? OR Is there some kind of audio enhancement that isn't the sound actuator of the old model that somehow is only activated in Sports mode? If it wasn't for the fact you can hear it outside too my money would have been on some artificial pops coming through the audio system, but I'm just not sure. Anyone know?

Used the resources on here as guest for the last three years as a Karoq owner, getting a new Enyaq so thought it was time to contribute a bit more.

I got a dongle off Amazon. Works perfectly if just a slight delay after skipping track before the next song flips on.

Main Dealerships have Technician & Fitters, not really Mechanical Engineers, or if they are they are not there to mess about making faulty parts fir for use. They replace parts.

Hey just stumbled across this as I was thinking the same thing. Did you get anywhere with it? I can’t see / hear any valves. On my previous car 1 valve would open on startup, and both in sports mode. This isn’t the case with the VRS as both exhausts fire up on start up, and sports mode doesn’t make the exhaust louder at idle (nor can you hear a valve opening / closing). Surely then it must be an ecu map for sports mode only? I just wish the mode button was closer to the steering wheel for RHD cars 😤

You already are on the most recent firmware

Yes, I changed LED and resistor on the OEM Platine/PCB

It’s in a really difficult place to get a photo, simply because space is very limited. This is the best I could get. It is definitely the engine mount I have done 50 miles now with no noises. Not sure if the Octavia VRS has a different engine mount design to normal TDi’s but I have found a very similar design from a MK6 Golf.

Anything can be done. Just have it done by a qualified motor vehicle engineer, maybe one that converts vehicles for customers of Motability or for people with disabilities. Proper conversion, and declare to your insurer who might want to have an engineers report. I have no right leg and drive standard 2 pedal cars with my left foot. Usually with the brake pedal cut down and the accelerator maybe moved to wards the brake pedal.

@autliebe Why not just do what suits you rather than ask people you do not know & thinking of ignoring the manufacturers advice. It is out of your pocket the money comes from if it does not go well? What is the difference in price of a tank of 91 ron compared to 95 ron?

For the convenience of everyone, posting the picture of flap for clear interpretation about the VW recommended fuel spec. Kindly share your recommendations accordingly. I would still mention here that people in India have been using RON91 in RON95 recommended cars and I am yet to come across any major engine failure because of that. Power and FE loss could be imperceptible by common people though. I have been using RON95 since the start, but is it worth to spend that extra money just because VW stated and is it really harmful to use RON91 is what I am puzzled about - and hence the thread 😀 Another interesting piece of information is that the latest models of VW/Skoda with same 1.0 TSI engines have min. recommended fuel as RON91 and RON95 for better performance. This even more puzzles me that can 1.0 TSI withstand RON91 and am I spending more for RON95 just like that? Thanks,

Alright thanks for the lead, I will go and have a tap on the engine cover and see what I can find. Actually now that I think about it, on the occasions that I have heard the noise I think there has been some crosswinds going on, so it could make sense that something is flapping around a bit in the engine bay. I will report back if I find anything.

Could be a number of things. First I would check wiring from fuel sender/tank It could be a loose/coroded connector. I managed to pull my sons wiring when I had seats down in his fabia and loosened connector although his stopped working completely. It may also be a fault in the fuel level sensor if the range drops as well. An earth fault may cause it as well If they check out ok it could be a fault in the cluster connector or the cluster/guage itself. If you arent able to check yourself perhaps an auto electrician as I reckon its a wiring/electrical fault rather than mechanical.

Yes, i soldered this 3528 PLCC2 LED with a 510 Ohm Resistor on the Platine. https://amzn.eu/d/bbysBb0 The pic is from my "tester" so it is not soldered very nice... cause i have tried some different versions and didnt want to clean the platine everytime ;-)

The 15mm-lower option is not available for UK-marketed Fabia Mk 4 cars and (apparently) in countries where that option can be chosen, it's only for Monte Carlo (or 130 Edition) models. The reddit.com discussion I provided a link to earlier includes comments by owners of Fabias with the 15mm-lower option, or by people who have practical driving experience of Fabias with and without the option. (Little profit in generalising when genuine ownership experience can be found online.) I didn't choose my Fabia SE L for 'fun' - if I had wanted a smallish 'family' car for fast road driving I would have gone for a Hyundai i20N. My Fabia accelerates, brakes, handles/steers OK and is quite comfortable. I don't consider the wheel-arch gaps excessive/unsightly and, if I wanted to tart up the car's appearance, I'd rather have it 'wrapped' in zebra vinyl than lower it .

No but we will look into finding someone who can perform this. Thanks for the suggestion.

Has the oil pressure actually been tested by attaching a gauge in place of the sensor?

Thanks for all the replies, car is still at the garage, unfortunately they could not look at it on Friday and were closed on weekend. Will post an update once diagnosed. One thing to re-emphasise, the first thing that happened on both occasions was the EPC light coming on, losing power and not being able to rev beyond 10k and then all warnings about lights coming on. Still hoping it's something small.

It seems to suggest it is the wet clutch when I search it up as ours is the 7 speed DSG 4x4. Most areas seem to suggest the dry clutch was only on front wheel drive models with lower torque.

Excellent video! Down to earth and with no annoying music. I like the level of detail because if you seek out a technical video like this it's in preparation to actually do the job yourself rather than just an idle viewing so it is exactly what you hope to find. Maybe that mystery adjustment is so you can easily take it (electrically) out of park and perhaps cause a stuck gear lever to release. Anyway, well done sir. 👍

Great stuff. Up to you but these individual videos might also be useful as three threads in the 'Skoda Fabia Guides' section, linked to each other as relevant. A few words of text to show at least the centre console removal and fitting the kit relate to a Fabia Mk3 with DSG. I was going to put more generally photographing in landscape rather than portrait gets more information in but a quick zip through your videos I see you change some to landscape. Pity VW caused the problem but well done to you on fixing the issue and providing others with the information.

I've had a Travall before and very happy with it especially the divider. Just ordered a Guardsman one. Looks and fits the same as Travall but the divider on theirs can change positon.

For those without LED/Xenon lights; its either headlight deflectors or (relatively cheaply) getting some LHD headlights. Skoda UK predicted this and did offer this as a (relatively cheap) swap across if you wanted to go down that line.

Folks, as promised, I did actually do some videos on everything I've done, and these are now up on YouTube. There are three of them covering removal of the armrest, removal of the centre console and fitting of the kit as follows: Arm rest removal Centre console removal Fitting of the kit

Hey, it's nice to join you all! I just bought my third Yeti, a 2016 Outdoor Style 4x4 with 63,000 km on the clock. Why don't they make Yetis anymore? 😉

i had similar problems. which was a bad battery and a lose cable to my tubo. the dealer fixed the cable thing i and installed 90 ah battery and everything worked here.

An interesting figure the SMMT or the Dft / DVLA could maybe publish is how many BEV,s are registered in the UK and how many are on SORN or 'In trade' & how many have now got VED duty paid. & how many are VED class 'Disabled' & on the road covered by VED exempt certificates or with Motability Group exemption. Over 1/4 of a million EV,s sold just in 2025. Holy camoly. This is another Vlogger that is pretty Anti EV, and one that makes glaring errors quite a bit in Vids, and gives opinions. If he sticks to reading articles and not spinning one way or another then that comes down to the facts of articles being accurate. High rate PIP Mobility component £77.05 a week if paying full amount to Lease a car, some are less than the £77.05 a week. So not £77.75 a week. Since the Award is just the £77.05 a week until next Aprils rise. Getting Facts from AI is an Issue, they are often wrong. Not factually correct. Motability Adbvance payments were based on Purchase Price of car with Manufacturer discounting and depreciation anticipated. Resale value at Auction. They are making losses, big losses and a Petrol or Diesel RRP might be lower than the EV, but the Manufacturer is selling the EV cheap to them. eg Ford Explorer / Capri. They will sell End of Model Petrol / Diesels cheap sometimes to get rid of and the Advance Payment can be low on those. But the manufacturers are trying to help the Fleet C02 average and get the EV,s first registered. Worth seeing how many £billion Motability have in the Bank. The 5 banks that have the Money, this being what was done to help them in 2008.

I suspect in that case that there is still some sort of master plan at play here.

We don't have an EV, are not on an EV tariff and are not with Octopus but also get free electricity for a couple of hours a week at the moment. I think it all depends on your supplier.

If that was 100% true then why don't all suppliers do the same for all their customers and not just those who have an EV?? It just reeks of a marketing ploy to encourage the greater uptake of electric cars. Either way, make hay while the sun shines (see what I did there?) because those perks will be swept away away as they need to bolster the public purse as fuel duty falls away, it will be transferred to the electric cars.

Thanks for the swift reply. Car goes in on Thursday so should know then what is happening.

OP is in India so I don't see how that's relevant in this discussion?

Economy is almost identical. Only you can say whether she would appreciate the extra performance and whether it’s worth whatever the premium is.

Nice! They are greast to drive! My test drive was an 85 Edition, but in the end had to settle for an editon 60, power difference is noticeable!

Those leds light up the middle section where the cup holders are. During night, the light is faint but noticeable - check it out for yourself.

Opened that bitch up, the ribbon cable was snapped, wound it back up, soldered the broken connections and it's all working again! The way the original connection is made, it's just a single point, tiny spot weld, no wonder these break all the time. These things are totally repairable.

Finally all back together with new discs and pads and all the correct handbrake cable clips. Tried bleeding the brakes, but just cant get a firm firm pedal. It goes straight to the floor once the cars started. Im sure I don't need to bleed the abs pump as I never let the system run dry. Im hoping I don't need to replace the master cylinder. I suspect the rounded brake pipe nut is letting in air. I run out of time to investigate. I'll worry about it when I'm back from my hols!

just replaced the motor on mine. a bit fiddly. yes, you can access it by getting the glovebox out, but you need to align the flaps. it's done by taking the blower motor out so you can access the flaps. then you connect the motor, put it in the "closed" or "open" position by pressing the recirc button. i did it on "closed". the last teeth of the flap gears should align with the last teeth on the motor gear, in the sense that the last teeth on the flap gears should sit just before the last teeth on each end of the motor gear. you make sure they do by opening the bottom flap all the way (but not too much) and closing the top flap all the way, inserting the motor into position, making sure it goes into the gears of the flaps, then you test if the bottom flap closes all the way, and you will see where the last teeth align. if they don't align correctly it will not close correctly, so you need to change the position it sits at on the teeth of the motor gear (as said before, with the last tooth of the flap gear just before the last tooth on the motor gear), so you put the motor back into the "closed" position, tilt the motor assembly a bit until the the bottom flap is not on the gear anymore, change the position of the bottom flap a bit while keeping the top flap on the gear so it doesn't misalign, then you test it again. you repeat the process until both flaps close firmly. i recommend spraying some rubber care spray onto the flaps to refresh the old rubber, but probably take the filter out first so it doesn't get onto it. as i said, it's a fiddly process, i spent 40 minutes aligning the flaps, but it all worked out in the end.

Another weekend and another trip out in the Octavia, we did Ultimate German car meet at the British motor museum with some 650 plus cars in attendance last week, Diddly Squat farm shop and Caffeine and Machine 310 miles in a day. This weekend we nipped to @Lowcoworld cars and coffee at Newark showground 😎 and put another few miles on the clock at the same time as remembering why i love this old Octavia of mine 😍

It’s for when the battery in the key fob is dead. Use the metal key blade in the key fob to open the drivers door. Then place the fob on the symbol on the cup holder. Press the start button. It should be covered during handover as otherwise you could get stranded.