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Thank you, all good stuff Ive taken the plunge, and I get It on Friday. 😁😁

Splitting hairs, you can scan as many cars as you want on a VIN-limited cable. You only need to use a VIN if you're going into detail. I normally say £20 cash in hand for a scan and report on my driveway, so if it's a garage doing that for the same money, I'd say that's excellent value.

The DRLs r not designed to b replaced...at least not easily. To get to it, u must remove the headlight front clear plastic which involves extreme heat using a heat gun or baking the headlights. Then u have to pry the plastic off. Once the cover is off, u can access the DRL elements themselves as well as the DRL light circuit board itself. Putting it back is a mess as well because u have to not only glue it back, it has to b sealed 100%. A lot of effort. And good luck finding the DRL elements specific for the Superb. U can find the DRL boards though. I haven't done it myself, but below r some pics from someone that has, showing the headlight with the front plastic cover off.....

Kinda liked the wheel so stuck one in my mk2 fabia as well 😂

The problem with Octavia Mk4 is the aircon and vehicle settings are handled by the headunit also. 3rd party OEM will need to interface with those systems and have similar UI so that you can still access aircon/vehicle settings. It was easier with the mk3 Octavia coz that generation use physical buttons if I recall correctly.

My car is a 2004 plate and nearing 260k miles. Despite more and more frequent problems I have been putting off replacement for years as it is difficult to find something newer that would tick all the required boxes: Won't cost more than £2-3k At least 50 MPG combined, but doesn't have to be a diesel per se. Good range and motorway cruiser performance Free of the DPF problems associated with newer diesels and having to fill it with adblue all the time. I rarely go to London so not too bothered about emission standards. Low key stealthy look that blends in with the scenery. Last time I made a serious effort to look was a few years ago when they increased the size of the London diesel zone (I hoped to find good runners being sold cheap by people who couldn't avoid being stung by the mayor's money grab) but it came to nothing. On the off chance that people still frequenting this forum have similar philosophies about life, what vehicles have you gone for?

I've always had a full warranty on my 280 and although I didn't claim last year I'm still about 1500 quid up over the 10 years I've owned the car. So .... Renewal time .... Quote is £458 with £100 excess for the year. Wadda you all think ? ( Yes this post is so I can blame you all if you say don't and something 'bad' happens ... )

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment. Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.

The marked position is correct. The sensor is mounted on a support plate with fine adjustment screws for aligning the sensor. The plate is then screwed onto the grill. However, the support plate is prone to breaking, which is when this error occurs. The Octavia 3 Facelift have the Same Position

It's interesting what he can do with VCDs on the MQB Classic and MQB EVO. He should add which platform it is to his list. VCDs are almost useless on the MQB or EVO. However, I think VCDs has a very good error log and backup function. I bought an unlimited V2 years ago and paid €460 back then.

Does your Mk3 Superb have a square opening in the centre of the lower part of the front grille? - If so, that is the Front Assist Radar sensor. Check that it hasn't been damaged in a parking shunt - it shouldn't be loose or misaligned.

Car65 says he's looking at a 2021 Superb which was the change over year so it could be a DKZA EA888 Gen3b or DNNA EA888 Gen4.

CarPlay initially connects via Bluetooth, but then uses WiFi for the actual connection. FWIW iOS26 gives CarPlay a very nice interface.

Depends what you're trying to do. It's a good price, but bear in mind for £30 more you can buy your own OBD11 tool to use whenever you like. If you need coding then you should be able to find someone friendly on here with VCDS. FWIW remember some stuff on your car will be under SFD 1. @Cairus will be able to offer more.

If you just want a scan and health report and delete error codes then other scan tools can do that, and more. £20 isn't unreasonable if you are happy to pay it but just plugging a scan tool in isn't full diagnostics if you have an issue or issues on the car. The scan tool may or may not point to the correct item or area causing the issue or issues and it depends how diligent the user is. For just a health report before and after deleting error codes I think I'd prefer £10 but 20 minutes of scan tool diagnosis or messing around with the car's settings is fine for £20 - if that's where it ends. As put it seems like a "loss leader" to get you through the doors as an advertising tool - or for more profitable work. Why not see if there's a Briskoda member near you that can do a scan and health report and delete error codes for beer tokens? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

The bottle will have "mit silikat" written on its side

And if it's anything later than 25.3 (or beta 25.7), as of today 17 Sep 2025, ask them why they haven't updated it? f it's not kept updated then this often means it's a pirate clone.

Indeed spreadsheet work is required. Mainly percentage of driving do you think you can do in EV mode? How much per-mile saving is there from driving on electric? Can you ever save back the initial outlay for this new car? Is there insurance cost difference? Unless you really want/need a new car, if your current Octavia meets all your needs and you'll still mostly be using fossil fuel, then there isn't much point changing to something heavier, less efficient car for sake of saving a few pence (or cents) when driving locally. Similarly, is there possibility of buying a cheap second hand BEV for local use? Keeping the Octy for longer trips with its spare tyre and huge boot. Between 2017 and 2022, I had this setup and was very happy with using the right car for the job.

I do get the EPC lamp and the engine block icon, but they go off when the engine starts.

Or this one

If it's this one it should be ok but after 2020 there are some models with protected diagnostics and you have to buy (I presume there is a cost attached) a token for access from VAG. If they are going to give you a print out/email of a full scan it seems like a reasonable deal as long as you don't have to pay if they can't connect for any reason. All VCDS can do via a scan is to tell you what each 'controller' is complaining about. It is often quite a long way from there to a fix. You will also end up with a very handy record of all of the part numbers and current software codings of each item on the car VCDS can communicate with. For £199 (if you don't mind being limited to 3 particular cars) you could buy a legal registered cable and use it as often as you like. There are many options the car has you can change via the diagnostics (locking/lighting/warning tones etc) to suit your preferences as well as reading codes and looking at live data from each sensor. It's quite a steep learning curve but I think it's well worth the price considering updates are free for life.

The eBay auction states: Genuine 'Fully Licensed' VCDS software with our VCDS HEX-NET Interface £20 seems fare enough, if it's already a VIN unlocked cable it doesn't actually cost them anything apart from their time to do a scan. They are likely hoping you'll then want more work doing and can make some money that way...

Ask them what version of VCDS they are using and which cable as the older cables will not work fully with newer cars.

What’s the steps for that

Only 7000 miles on my 2.0TSi 190 Gen4 but no issues and no oil top up. Really impressed with the refinement and economy on this engine.

Thought I might chime in here for a first post. Just took delivery of a Moon White mk 4.5 vRS hatch today. For context my 2 previous cars were a mk 3 Octavia vRS hatch and until today a mk 3.5 Superb L&K hatch. Extremely raw initial thoughts... I love the look of the new car. The Superb was probably the best care I ever owned but the styling, whilst I liked it for what it was, was a bit too sensible middle aged man for my liking -- I'm not quite there yet. So nice to be back in something that's a bit more exciting if still a sensible. I've ordered bolt covers and center caps for the wheels. The aero covers are out of here ASAP. New car excitement notwithstanding, I have to say the Octavia feels like a surprisingly big step down from the Superb, but that could be more to do with my spec than anything else. And I should note that I expect it to be a step down as it is the little brother after all. Guess I'm just surprised how much it feels like a step down in some regards. Some immediate downsides. Road noise is kind of wild. To be somewhat expected but I was surprised to see both cars were on the same profile of tyre. So it's all coming from a lack of insulation I guess. Lack of space. That roughly 15cm difference in length makes way more of a difference in the interior than it looks from the exterior. The Octavia is often talked about being a spacious car for the segment, and no doubt it is, but it appears I didn't appreciate how cavernous the Superb was. Fit and finish. A few cheap outs like no LED lighting in the rear and cheaper plastics here and there. The fabric for the seats is honestly kind of tragic -- I do believe in other markets there is half leather option for the vRS which for some reason I couldn't spec in the UK? Anyway, big step down from the all leather in the Superb. Comfort and ride. Not even in the same league honestly but this is the vRS so I can forgive it. I imagine the DCC would make a huge difference. My L&K did have DCC but I honestly stopped using anything other than the normal mode after like the first month. Virtual cockpit. Unless I'm missing something the customisation of this seems way more limited than the old software. It's kind of silly honestly. The Canton sound system in the Superb was much better than than the standard one here. Was instantly noticeable. I was sort of hoping I'd hardly be able to tell TBH -- interestingly though the likes of the reverse sensor chimes etc feel a lot clearer / pronounced in the new car. Lack of electrically adjustable seats. Again, maybe I'm wrong, but these don't seem to be available in the UK on vRS yet are elsewhere? Lack of ventilated seats. I just loved these. used them more than the heating despite living in the UK. Functionality buried in the infotainment. Absolute head scratcher but a wider industry issue, I know. I see the new Superb and Kodiak have brought back some dials so hopefully that is being corrected more broadly. Lack of integrated sun blinds. Some immediate upsides. These are mostly king of moot since they exist by virtue of the car just being newer but still upsides to me all the same. Proximity on top of the standard keyless entry. Just another great little QOL feature. ACC. This might be a spec thing but my Superb just had standard ACC where you set the speed and it will adapt to the vehicle in front. This newer version adapting for speed limits etc is great. Just set and forget. No more manual adjustments. Despite the fact, as noted, so much is now unnecessarily buried in the infotainment screen, the new screen is miles better. Wireless charging. This is purely a spec issue. I ordered my Superb right at the factory tooling switchover time. Which weirdly meant in the dealership when I specced the car I had to do so as a pre facelift despite knowing the car I would get would be the mk 3.5. So I couldn't option this feature but I love having it now. Performance. The Superb was perfectly performant for what it was -- 190ps I think -- but this vRS is definitely keen to go. Styling. I just love it honestly. I see all the love GTIs etc get but I've just always loved the Octavia vRS. Still love the mk 3 when I see them. I'm probably being a bit harsh. Like I said, I'm not really comparing apples to apples. But yeah, slightly disappointed that the Octavia isn't closer in quality. Particularly given the price! For context, in 2020 my L&K was just shy of 40K and came fully loaded. Today the vRS is the same price. Ultimately I opted for the vRS because I do really love how it looks and I wasn't prepared to pay the even more ludicrous monthly payment for the new Superb -- which looks like a great car honestly. Some obvious notes for fairness. The Octavia could have faired better in comparison. DCC is an option and would probably improve the ride considerably. Likewise I miss my Canton sound system and heated steering wheel, but again, the options are there. Some notes of bafflement -- correct me if I'm wrong. Not that I could justify any additional options on top of the base price but... No UK options for half leather and or electric sports seats? Surely these were available at some point? No sun blinds options? Can't throw in a heated steering wheel for the base price? Anyway, that feels like a lot of negativity. If I wasn't comparing this directly to a top spec Superb that I absolutely loved driving for 5 years -- which again, is not fair -- I don't think I'd have too many complaints. Excited to see how I get on with it.

It was fuse 14 (infotainment) I think, pop it back in after 10 minutes fixed it. I don't think that's necessary anymore, as hopefully all of the cars who had the dodgy software have been updated

In my 2011 the alarm horn was under the cover at the base of the windscreen where the wiper blades mount

The Mk3 vRS petrol is well liked for its solid driving feel and physical controls, though early cars sometimes had timing chain tensioner issues and oil consumption problems. Road noise is also more noticeable, especially on bigger wheels. The Mk4 vRS brings a nicer interior, better insulation, Matrix headlights, and more safety tech, but relies on touch controls that not everyone enjoys. It’s also had reports of infotainment glitches, driver-assist errors, and the occasional coolant leak. The Mk3 vRS petrol is well liked for its solid driving feel and physical controls, though early cars sometimes had timing chain tensioner issues and oil consumption problems. Road noise is also more noticeable, especially on bigger wheels. The Mk4 vRS brings a nicer interior, better insulation, Matrix headlights, and more safety tech, but relies on touch controls that not everyone enjoys. It’s also had reports of infotainment glitches, driver-assist errors, and the occasional coolant leak.

Positives :- One of the great do it all, everyday cars. Everything feels solid and arguably more premium than some luxury offerings today. The disparity in quality is eye opening. Everything from the brakes, steering, gearshift feel superior. A sturdy feeling underpins it all. Build quality, NVH, and calibration of controls are leagues ahead. It is very clear to see why it ended up with the reputation it did. Kind words from a performance / enthusiast orientated car mag !

I can hear a noise around 0:04, but this sounds like it could be anything from the turbo to the transmission. Does it do it when stationary? Are you able to video it from outside the car?

Canny hear anything untoward on this clip. Check Alternator belts.

+1. A diesel is not optimised for this kind of usage. A petrol would have been a more sensible choice.

That's why you've been experiencing these problems.

Noooo. It's like a well loved Brisky member has suddenly just disappeared off the face of the earth! Still there's room for a big V8 in your garage now hopefully

G12 pink coolant.

Can't hear anything untoward on that clip but if the car's been standing and the alternator belt is worn / a bit slack, that's where I would look. The load from the alternator charging a low battery is quite hefty.

Around 100k it is a good idea to change the oil in a DQ200. There are two - the oil in the gearbox itself, and then the MCU.

Yes - I wouldn't be looking to compare a PFL Mk3 to a PFL Mk4 - there's just too much difference (not to mention the ten years or so inbetween them). As an aside, you can see the comparison between the Mk4 PFL and FL here. Just like the 3 to 3.5, most of the differences are under the hood. I should also explain that my Occy is almost the best of both worlds - for me, anyway. Among other things, it has the digi dash and ACC, along with TSR. I get nice features, along with a slightly nicer driving feel. Of course, I also get phyiscal knobs, and the ability to turn all the safety stuff off - permanently. Had I not been able to find one with the digi dash, I would have likely dug around for a Mk4. I just, personally, really dislike the Mk3.5 analog gauges. That said, I also sort of hate the Christmas tree lighting in my car now - I have the 2000s green switchgear lighting, the white infotainment and then the modern digi dash. It does clash a little bit. Whoever specced my car also didn't tick power fold mirrors, which annoys me too. The interior of the Mk4 is absolutely streets ahead - it's my only gripe with my car, really (beside the tail lights). The newer model has alcantara and such, whereas mine is nasty plastic. Similarly, the new model is full LED with a rear light design from this decade, whereas the half LED/half halogen setup on my car looks like they took it from a Mk1 Fabia. There are bigger issues, but every time I see a 7.5 GTI I do long for some nicer rear lights. In terms of the headlights, it depends. If you look at the Matrix unit of a Mk4, you will see two units (almost like eyes). By comparison, by car only has one of these units, with the rest of the full beam coming from a different unit in the smaller split headlight. I personally think the Mk3.5 are more than enough - although I do wish I had HBA (High Beam Assist). On a dual carriageway I find full beam too bright, as it reflects too strongly off of signs. Up in the north of Scotland, I find them more than enough too, at whatever speed I'm travelling at. That being said, they aren't a Matrix system. If headlights are the most important factor for you, then get a Mk4. i weighed up the differences and decided that a better driving experience, with favourable controls and looks outweighed spending an extra £5,000 on a Mk4 (this was early last year). If I were to choose an Octavia again, I'd still get a 3.5 with options.

Here's the snapshot for 2025 so far: Distance covered: 7,157.54 miles Number of trips: 61 Total charging cost: £230.89 The graph below covers both public charging and charging at home both on grid and from solar (which is why the Summer months show close to zero cost). To put that in perspective: that’s about the cost of 2.7 fill-ups for my diesel VW T6 camper van — which would only get me around 1,168 miles. And that’s with a respectable 40 mpg, hauling beds, a cooker, fridge, and more. Of course, the economics shift if you can’t charge at home. But for me, home charging not only makes the car cheaper to run — it also slashes our household energy costs. Compared to neighbours still using gas heating, our winter energy bills were around five times lower.

Thanks to both @travs and @LeGrumpy I will not observe the very rich site with a more ... dedicated eye. I am freeing up some resources and Superb deserves a bit of pampering ... 🥰

G12 EVO

Press the right hand roller button on the steering wheel to answer an incoming call.

Looks something like this so its nice & discrete. The cover even closes over the top of it.

So, I looked through some backups of my server. All vehicles that had the pop-up had a ECU with a software version 2002.

I have my Enyaq 85 and don't have any home charging. My cost per mile is still cheaper than previous petrol and diesel cars thanks to a Tesla subscription (£90/yr) and Ionity (£10.50 per month). This brings charging on Ionity down to 43p per kWh, and Tesla 24-37p depending on time of day and charger. I will occasionally stretch to a 55p per kWh charger if there is nothing else nearby that is handy and cheaper. My cost per mile for the energy is usually <12p per mile. If you charge at any random public charger, then be prepared for costs up to 89p per kWh... Sure, you can do ICE motoring for less, but not in equivalent cars to my Enyaq... my purchase involved a quite extensive spreadsheet looking at the overall cost of ownership (car cost, servicing, VED, petrol vs electrons etc.), and it still worked out substantially cheaper than my previous car.

Problem solved ! I hate when there's no follow up on threads. And especially because there are other threads on the forum with exactly the same problem as mine - but without any follow up how it was soved - I will below write a detailed "how to fix it". On these MkII models there is a relay numbered "484" that does the complete DRL function. It's the same type of relay as I linked to above. Sadly the relays are located inside the dash panel, but if you have small/thin hands/arms it's possible to reach the relays from below without disassemble a lot (ask a child...). Remove the foam above the pedals. It has no screws, but be careful not to break it. Remove the cover on side of the dashboard on drivers side (mostly to get a better view, not possible to reach the relay from here) Remove the light switch: In "0", push in the knob some mm and turn it slightly to the right, This will release the locks and the switch unit can then be pulled out. Remove the connector from switch (push the locking tabs on its sides) and route the connector to the dashboard side opening to free up the hole Now you can see the relay "484". With a long tool it may be possible to take it out through the light switch hole, otherwise you need to grab it from below, Remove the cover of the relay (two snap lockings, quite easy) Inspect the PCB for suspect and/or cracked soldering, In our car I think it was the signals to one relay coil that was interrupted by a crack. May be barely visible (looks like a ring in the soldering). Re-solder all suspected pads. In the picture the suspected/cracked pins are already re-soldered: Re-assemble the relay, put it in place again and connect the light switch connector to the light switch again. Test the car with light switch in position "0" - side/parking light should be activated with ignition on, and after staring the engine the dipped beam should light up. If everything works, re-assemble the rest of the panels and covers. You have now saved a lot of money 🙂

You go through all kinds of emotion, right? Like now i want to push this thing into the nearest canal and never speak of it again. I went and scraped some more underseal off it. It's clearly had rust patched.... with nothing but underseal... in its history. There are SO many intersecting parts, or rather 'no longer intersecting' parts, and as yet I'm too scared to just start lopping bits off because I might not remember where they need to go back on. There's no joy to be found from underneath either: This car is clearly a write off, but we're not going to do that are we, we're going to FIX it. But not today, not today. I went round the other side to take a couple of photos of the 'good' corner on the other side, got suspicious and shoved a screwdriver through it so that's another bit of screwed up sill to go on the list. It's getting further away. Motivation is gone, but it will come back.

Boo. Noise still there, but seems worse in windy conditions.