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A very old story, I used to have a 1991 VX Cav GSI 16V 2000 4X4 (yes all that was on the rear badging!), heated mirrors only worked when the rear window demister was switched on, so in autumn/winter the mirrors were probably left switched on. Moved onto a new VW Passat 4Motion in 2000, so when autumn came, I just left the heated mirrors switch on thinking the way they operated was the same as in the old VX Cav GSI. Near the end of the first winter, I came across a thread in the world wide Passat forum - folk in USA talking about ending up with burned out mirror heater tapes - oh! Checked the resistance of the mirror heater tapes on my Passat - very very high resistance, oh bother! Bought and fitted new mirrors and from then on used them "sensibly". The high resistance was not from along/through the heater tapes but along the blackened/charred PCBs. I've read somewhere that some Audis had protection against this, ie used a thermal sensor somewhere - but I'm not placing my trust in that as heated mirrors can be a bit expensive.

I'd wager this is the reason. Maybe they should recommend changing the air in the tyres too. You know, just in case ...... 🙄

On my Fabia and VW UP the mirrors will heat up independently of the rear demister. But yes anywhere between L and R will put the heated mirrors on. Be warned they don't appear to turn off automatically and there is no warning light. On a Peugeot I had they would automatically heat when you put the rear demister on. And they would automatically all turn off after a short while. But was no way to turn them on independently. Thanks. AG Falco

Not needed the rear demister to be on on any of our Skuds for the heated mirrors to function 🤷

I've just fitted a RS Reflector Bar to my L&K, which I think improves the rear end appearance. There are 3 parts involved, total cost from my local dealer inc vat - £91.63: Protective bar - 565807423A9B9 - £58.34 ex VAT Reflector - 565945103 - £9.01 ex VAT Reflector - 565945104 - £9.01 ex VAT Fitting does not require the rear bumper to be removed. There is some minor modification involved in the fitting as the reflector studs protrude through the rear of the bar, that is not beyond the means of an average d-i-yer with a 13mm drill and a dremel taking around 1/2 hour, simply because the RS bumper is not quite the same as other Kodiaq rear bumpers. (Yes, it's due a first wash!)

Hi, I am just about to get my new Superb SE L and would very much like to have 'Scandinavian' (I think?) style DRL's activated. It makes no sense to me to have DRL's at the front and not at the rear. I know it can be coded on the Mk3 superbs but have not heard whether it can be turned on with the Mk4. If it can what is the best way to do this?

Keep the engine mounts OE, the rest can be poly bushed IIRC from others experience. Nice to see you keeping this one on the road👍 Did I ever tell you about my MkI Fabia🤔 It was the summer of nineteen clickety three. We had a good summer that year. Not to hot, not too cold. I had a cloud to yell at......

That's what I'm going for, or at least very very good rubber for the car. I've got some Meyle wishbone bushes to replace the PSB ones, they just don't feel good on the car weirdly.

@AnnoyingPentium poly bushes if you can preferably all round. Simpler if the rear axle is getting swapped out. Dunno if Tech1e still has them but he got a few new in box when he took mine IIRC.

Welcome back folks. It's been a little while away. It's been running okay for me. Not brilliant, however. Work really is needing done (see below), and it needs some time away to get that sorted (with my mate, also called Ryan). All plans are in place for the car to spend a wee while down there. This is how it's sitting at the moment, with the Team Heko grille on to try and let it warm up quicker (there is some difference, in my not-so-scientific tests at least). The good news is that I finally got around to booking @Tech1e to fit my cruise control, and it has seriously improved the driving experience of this car. I wasn't too sure how cruise would be on the small 1.2 12v, but it's competent enough when I need it. Issues I've noted so far: - Rear axle isn't looking too clever, up for replacement with a disc conversion since the other Ryan will be in there. - Front end shake, it's got a wobble up front and doesn't feel stable at speed. Same way it felt before the wishbone bushes were done. - Knackered balljoint (probably related) on the driver's side front, as well just having the arm replaced at the same time. - Struggling to get up to and stay at the correct temperature, suspected thermostat. - Sort out wiring for electric rear windows to communicate with front. - Interior light wiring. If the interior light is on, it turns off as the front passenger door is opened. - Rear right tweeter beginning to fail. (I'll sort this myself) I think that's all. I'll take it out tomorrow and probably find the rest of the issues. All in all, it's not bad for a car nearing 19 years old and 110k miles. It's doing well considering what I've thrown at it. Hopefully I can keep it going for a while yet - it might be end of life in the eyes of many, but I'm not one for giving up.

Halfords have at least half a dozen for different pipe fittings , it may be a question of trial and error. The website just says "may" not fit the Octavia. Or email the fuel cap company https://www.petrolcaps.co.uk/1838/skoda-octavia-may-2013-onwards-fuel-cap

I can confirm that CHHB engine does not have a MAF.

No issue here, only turns the engine off when stationary and brake hold has activated. Same here , no problem and in fact I quite like it.

Thanks for that info. Looks like my sd card will be the best solution then.

I’m open to being wrong, but I’m pretty sure you have both a maf and a map sensor on your engine. Also do you have a code translation for those above? They seem to be proprietary codes from the tool you’re using

If the car has Smartlink and Carplay installed you can use an iphone with a charging/data cable in to the USB socket. This will work using the steering wheel buttons. Info here: - https://www.skoda-auto.com/connectivity/connect With an ipod it should connect and play using the AUX input plug. ( looks like a headphone socket ) Don't think the steering wheel buttons will work though. There should also be an SD card socket ( hidden ) in the glove box which will work. HTH Thanks. AG Falco

Rear wash is powered from same wires and motor as front wash, just with different polarity. So it will not be affected by removal of rear wiper fuse.

I have read all of the contributions now. The point about the line not aligning with the heat symbol and you just to keep turning the knob until you hear a click was very interesting and I would never have thought of that, I will try it when the weather gets really cold and damp and see if the heat works then The symbol may not light up as was said in the posts but if they are being heated its easy enough to pull in briefly and check the glass in the housing to see it it is warm/hot. Thanks very much to everyone, it does seem once again that the Skoda handbook is not as helpful as it should be and its not just me being ultra thick!

Just take it to your local alignment specialist to get the car fully laser aligned. The car could have been bumped up and down a high kerb, hit a speed bump too fast or a pot hole before you bought it. I changed the track rod ends on my Superb earlier this year because one of them had a small split in the rubber boot. I accurately measured the length of the threads to get them as close as possible, but the steering wheel was very slightly off centre. Took it to a wheel alignment specialist, they reset it and the steering wheel was then spot on.

One chassis presumably and of course there is/was the very competent 4x4 superb, 280 hp that the police in some areas bought as a motorway / pursuit car.

They are very expensive aswell. £600 for a cam belt replacement. Luckily I have a really good,trustworthy local garage that has looked after my VW UP! for the last six years.

If this is an indication of their 'services' I'd consider someone else for future servicing requirements.

I think Mk1 Octy had mirror heating paired with HRW. Fabia from Mk1 has it independent. Be aware if testing that it doesn't work with just ignition on; engine needs to be running.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Provided the AC appears to be running efficiently, almost certainly an attempt to upsell an unneeded service.

Same for original Merc EQC is 2.5 tonnes unladen and has a GVW of just under 3T. No wonder it cannot even do 3 miles, ie 5 kms per kwh. Very quick accelerating car with up to 400 hp but lots of negatives including a prop shart tunnel running thru the cabin making it have no flat floor in the back seat area as it used the old ICE chassis.

No issue here, only turns the engine off when stationary and brake hold has activated. I may be wrong, but it does sound like a software issue, and a missing conditional argument in the code. Did it change after a dealer update? If not, I'd speak to the dealership as it is a change in expected behaviour. They may just say it's a known issue (pretty poor if so).

Check the sealing of the fuel cap - you should be able to hear an intake of air (hiss) when you release the cap immediately after a run.

think I have sorted it now, but it's not finalised yet. I have been quoted what I think is a reasonable price, considering the situation with it being an import, and me just arriving back from oz found a company on Google that deals with imports and chassis number registrations, and has good reviews

Failure points that are very common are seal failure and corrosion. I’ve seen the earlier ones gone after 2-3yrs. Not sure when the revised shock was released to apparently counter these issues. But if you drive anywhere with salt during the winter, I’d still be very cautious, as that has to date been its biggest killer.

Yeah, crank sensor tend to be hard starts, rather than rough idle. Great thing about the maf check is it’s easy to do. Just unplug it and turn the key. It either resolves or it doesn’t.

Suggest getting the battery tested.

Don't know this for certain because I have a Karoq, but there's a setting in Carista that allows you to have the rear lights on as DRLs. I'd be surprised if you couldn't do this on a later model Superb too - the Carista website gives you a pretty good indication of what it'll do for specific models without having to cough for one and then send it back because it didn't do what you wanted. This is a separate setting to 'Scandinavian DRLs'. If you opt for that, the rear number plate lights are on as well. I've enabled the rears as DRLs on my car, not the Scandinavian version, and set the [adjustable] brightness at 75%. As others have said, I can see no logic in not having the rears as DRLs as well as the fronts. As far as I'm aware, my car has an arse end as well as a nose end.

Maybe they're pleading ignorance then!

Check DTCs for any faults recorded, good suggestion for MAF sensor, also check for anything concerning crank/cam position sensors - although reports of these failing often quote reluctant starts.

Couple of things, either the wheel alignment has been set with the steering wheel off centre. Or the wheel alignment needs checking, or the steering wheel was fitted not quite right from new. Is there evidence of unequal wear on the tyres?

It says 2380kg.

They did put a diagnostic tool yes, I asked if they found any codes but they told me there weren't any. Might go get one myself to check and see. Will try that method thanks

Did the mechanic put a diagnostic tool on? My first guess would be Mass Air Flow sensor getting inconsistent readings causing fuelling problems. Try unplugging it, and see what it does then. If it settles down and doesn’t do the bounce there’s your answer. Without the sensor plugged in the ex just reverts to a default condition and an assumed airflow rate and fuels according to that.

The LED DRL tube is burnt at the end where it sits on the circuit board. That's why it's yellow. It's whole headlight replacement unfortunately. Otherwise, if ur feeling brave, i.e. u open up (dismantle) the headlights completely, u can then source the DRL tube and DRL circuit board from AliExpress and replace the burnt components. I haven't done it, but these pics r from others who have. The second pic, left one, shows a burnt LED.

I'll check tomorrow where the click stop is for heaters on my wife's car as I've never used it and can't remember the line position the one time when I had to turn it back from heaters. As for the line not lining up with the heater symbol I'm sure there's some German engineering logic reason for it beyond the understanding of non-German engineers, a lot of what they do and don't do is beyond me being much more used to British and Japanese cars.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you describe better what the tacho is actually doing - are the revs just dipping before the engine shuts down, or are they increasing and decreasing (I.e. very unstable idle) ?

As we've had a hosepipe ban for a few weeks now, and for the foreseeable future, the car's been neglected, and not been washed for ages...ttok it to the local car wash earlier, then finished it off giving a wipedown with Poorboys QD, tyres dressed with Chemical Guys tyre dressing, and plastics renovated with Nanolex trim rejuvenator. A couple of days ago, I used the Gtechniq 2-stage polish and water repellant treatment on the sides and rear window (mine's not got a rear wiper, so was getting fed up with the constantly dirty window!). Even in anonymous "Uber" spec, it's quite a handsome wagon when it's clean...not that I'm biased at all 😅 Have a great weekend all!

Recently visited the Helios installation at Fountains Abbey. National TrustHelios at Fountains Abbey | YorkshireHelios at Fountains Abbey, North Yorkshire A spectacular sight once the sun had set ☀️ Some judicious use of Magic Eraser in the first image!

While the engine should not cut out while the vehicle is still moving (above about 2MPH, I think), this does occasionally appear to be an issue with DSG gearboxes. Not aware if there is a fix.

Firmware 0480T https://mega.nz/#P!AgGWtzUFoIN6QwcfHkvDSFNY6ZFvusi5eAg2-JnSZzMT_EJ1W8djv-W15OiqY4Jirb98cejtwkeRVchJswL6meiRUYJAVrY3ApZQI29lVvEiLQydmhFbslT1HPzjyWVPtF1vys4O7LY

Yes - two options: 1) source the original factory sensors and loom, have them installed and coded in. Expensive but will look OEM. 2) just buy any old set of generic reversing sensors and have them fitted. They take power from the reversing light, thus they only common when you are in reverse. Perfectly good and many can either supply the sensors in the same colour as your car (or close enough) or you can have them painted.

The odometer for miles covered is probably very accurate. The same source data will be used for both, but the speedo artificially calibrated to over-read, as required by law in some countries such as the UK.

I have gone electric, back to ice and now back on ev. Not a taxi driver but doing a minimum of 20k miles per year. I can tell you that in my experience EV is better, currently charging at home for me costs 7p per kWh which equates to 2pence (£0.02) per mile. No oil and filter changes, no air filter, fuel filter, ad blue or timing belt. Brake wear is hardly measurable but probably every couple of years strip and clean front pads and calipers. Insurance cost exactly the same, road tax now the same. Driving experience vastly better, quieter and easier - especially for taxi work. Yes rapid charging is expensive but if the majority of charging is at home the overall cost is less than diesel or petrol. I will parking in Manchester today and will top up at a car park 7kwh* charger which is £0.72 per kWh. I’ll arrive with 50% and could probably get home but I’ll top it up to 80% to be on the safe side (bad weather tonight, could get stuck or diverted etc). Even that expensive public charger only works out at 5p a mile more than petrol or diesel cost. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation that is bombarding everyone thinking about EV which makes people play safe and stick with what they know. *Edit : car park charger is 22kwh ac, but car is 11kwh max on ac charging.

I'm guessing that, as you suspect, it's general advice. Perhaps an over-dramatic warning that without the engine running, the battery will eventually go flat.

I hope nobody actually just turns on lights because their is a daylight time published someplace for their area, and actually knows what visibility there is and drive to see and be seen. Actually as anyone with their eyes open can see there are many that seem to let the car decide when head lights and side lights are needed and have probably no idea what their vehicle has on. I just drove in the pith rain with very poor visibility and many d!cks have on just DRL,s or not even DRL,s or sidelights.