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This forum was a great source of info, so thought I'd give a bit back. I recently bought a new 2019 9,500 mile Citigo 3rd SE for my daughters to learn in. Learned from this forum that they have a propensity to rusting around the rear wheel arch liners so though I'd pay it forward and give my experience. I bought two rear arch liners from buycarparts.co.uk - they are a clone site of AutoDoc - it's AutoDoc that fulfills the order, but they are a few quid cheaper than the AutoDoc site. £43 for both including delivery. The item numbers from buycarparts are 6601-01-9516831P and 6601-01-9516832P. Delivery takes around a week. I bought a pack of self-tapping trim screws from Halfords but only actually used two of the screws. I also bought a can of Dinitrol sealer. Fitting was a doddle. I hosed the arches - having only 9,500 miles on the clock meant there wasn't much road dirt under there. I inspected the fuel tank neck from behind the swing and the original paint appeared to be all intact and clear with no sign of corrosion. I then sprayed Dinitrol all over - it's a messy job if you want to get the can up above the filler neck - but worth it. Then took the wheels off. The liners are a bit rigid in this cold weather, but go into place easy enough and clipped into place pretty securely. They kind of find their place and feel pretty solid with no fixings as they are moulded around the arch profile including the factory bolt that sticks out - but wanting a bit of belt & braces I drilled a small hole on the inner surface for a self tapper, removed the arches and sprayed copious amounts of Dinitrol into the hole to protect the drilled metalwork. Then refitted the arches, screwed the self-tapper in and then sprayed more Dinitrol over the screw surface. They fit really well and honestly aren't going anywhere. It was immediately apparent that the road noise was reduced, even in the dry. I'd expect in the wet it will be even more effective. All in all it took well under 2 hours for both sides, including cleaning the arches and total cost with the screws and Dinitrol was £57.

***UPDATE*** It was a weak water pump causing the issues. So I’ve had it replaced and a new matrix as well as it was a bit clogged too. Full coolant flush and replacement as well. Heaters are piping hot now thank goodness especially since the temperature dipped.

Might be worth a watch

Exactly this....... My VAG guru independent said to me when we first got the wife's Fabia with stop/start and I asked him about it that do you really think that VAG would risk lawsuits from customers who's cars had packed in through constant stopping and starting in traffic? Everything affected by the stop/start was totally redesigned/re-engineered to the new criteria and was designed to last as long, if not longer, than the old school equivalents did without stop/start.

It will definitely be a good thing. Your rims will be much easier to clean, when you remove them at the next swap.

last year??? oh my god...i can't remember what i had for breakfast...its an age thing, but thanks for the reminder.

It was the coil plugs 👍

This bit I find critical going forward, from auto translator: " ‘Transport EVs must be safer, existing ships not suitable’After their findings with the fire on the Fremantle Highway, the Panamanian investigators recommend measures that should make transport of EVs on all ships – including ferries and passenger ships – safer. Because it has become clear to the researchers that ships that only have a fire extinguishing system for transporting cars with an internal combustion engine, now also transport electric vehicles ‘without any upgrade of their loading floors and firefighting’. ‘Panama’ calls the risk of fire in electric car ‘minimum, but the consequences ‘catastrophic’. For example, tailgates on existing ships have not been built for transporting electric cars. This can damage the batteries that are in the soil of EVs, which can cause a fire. " I wonder how Norway ferry are dealing with this change of risk, they even many electric ferries.

It seems the official report into the cause of the fire onboard the Fremantle Highway has been kept secret until Dagblad van het Noorden invoked an international treaty that requires it to be made public. Just as expected, it was indeed a battery electric BMW car that started the fire and because there is no way of currently putting such a fire out, even though the ship was flooded with masses of CO2, which with an ICE car, would have extinguished the fire, fire as we know demands oxygen to burn, and with CO2 being heavier than air would have prevented oxygen reaching the fire. Li-ion batteries generate masses of oxygen, so any defeated the CO2 fire suppression system. Now I wonder just why was the report kept secret?? Add to this, just how many other reports of similar events have been kept secret?? 'Secret' investigation with major consequences: fire in electric BMW cause of Fremantle Highway disaster - Dagblad van het Noorden

The matrix the matrix was changed which improved things a bit heat wise but when load was reduced the air turned cold even at the highest setting. Water pump was then changed and everything was sorted.

Its not a mib2 high since you quote Navigation Database: 21.7 Thats a mib3. Google on the part number. Its Martinibs other thread.

Not checked my Karoq but my Polo had one. It was little more than a thin plastic sleeve & I really can't see it doing much in the way of extra insulation, compared to the thick case of the battery itself. Google threw up this, which suggests it's more relevant to AGM batteries. Battery Heat Shield According to the VAG ERWIN Self-study guide, guide No.504 “Vehicle Batteries- Design & Function”, the engine bay is considered a high temperature place for the battery. This can adversely affect the durability of the battery due to:- “Corrosion of the positive grid, water consumption, & self-discharge increase.”. They also state that AGM batteries must retain the heat shields they have been installed with as they are more susceptible to heat damage. Conversely if your car wasn’t fitted with an AGM battery there is a chance that it won’t have the required heat shields & you will have to retro-fit them.

'Better' is not necessarily a term I'd use for tyres with a lower rolling resistance - especially if achieved by lower grip in certain conditions. What really should be considered is tyres with the best overall grip for usual driving conditions, combined with acceptable wear, noise and economy - in that order.

This one. The one driven off the cam with the solenoid and thermostat built in.

Rockwool?

Fair play, that is some great work! We are looking for a cheap run around and I somehow don't think a 1.8t lump is that hahah. 1.5k seems really cheap for a converted mk1? Wonder if it definitely still has the lump in it?

I think that's a bad idea in view of styrofoam being highly combustible. You're aware of the danger from a hot engine, but there are other possible sources of combustion, especially when the styrofoam gets some grease and oil on it. You'd probably get away with it and avoid an engine compartment fire, but if you were unlucky, your insurer would reject your claim.

Following up to my own post, a few hours after updating to 0332 I was offered another OTA update. The description suggested that it was fairly minor, but after letting it run for several hours I started the car and found that the maps were now on 25.8. All is now well, why a supposed main dealer couldn't have done that I have no idea...

I believe the 2.0 16v TDi doesn't have a copper seal. Well it's not in the seal kits that are available for the BKD engine. See: Seal Kit

Very, Very interesting, look here. https://vwcoding.ru/en/MQB/esteticLightsCoding/#_3

The VX was a late 2021 Euro 6d 174hp model (so last of the UK Insignia's). Very economical generally on longer journey's - I was expecting similar (or better) from the Superb, although Skoda's official combined MPG is around 51-52mpg. Thing is, the Insignia's rated MPG was ~61mpg, and I could get way more than that. I was therefore wondering if better tyre's would help.

Yorkshire might be part of a North England South England divide. But really North in the UK where tariffs and standing charges are higher and excess electricity can be generated is part of the divide. Paying for wind farms not to generate.

Was the Vauxhall a Euro 5 emissions car & 130 bhp? Best tyres might be ones with safe grip / traction levels since it is a AWD car, rather than ones giving better fuel efficiency / lower rolling resistance by offering less grip / friction / traction.

They are dreadful tyres. Honestly, I've been running Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen 3 All seasons tyres on three cars we have owned. Those tyres are brilliant and ideally for the cooler weather we are experiencing. Highly recommended. Probably worth getting a wheel alignment done too after installing new tyres as the Octavia's can throw their tracking really easily if you aren't careful. Probably a 4 wheel alignment if you can find somebody with a Hunter system and the correct Skoda Octavia profile.

Hola desde España. He conocido briskoda a través de búsquedas por internet ya que estoy intentando instalar xenon originales en mi rs 1u2 para sacar mis viejos halógenos. Buscaré por el foro por si hay algún tema abierto al respecto. Un saludo

It's doubtful that your DSG box will be the cause of disappointing consumption, as it is simply an automated manual - therefore there is no torque-converter slippage. Apart from possibly carrying a little extra weight with the DSG box, theoretically it should be at least as economical as a manual.

Ok, so I continued my research and I think the ambienteumfang_mehrfarbig is used to define if an area is colored or not, it explains the fact that after I set bit 3 in one of the channels, I made the MIB unit to display the footwell light as RGB. So, now I will focus on ambientelicht_verbauinformation_HMI which it should activate the extra "sun" on my MIB unit. I will give it a try and come back with an update 😼

Have you read the online manual? If not here are some relevant extracts re: KESSY Automatic locking when leaving the car If the vehicle is equipped with this function, it will automatically lock when the key is removed from the car. The direction indicator lights flash once to confirm that the car is locked. If the car is not locked, an audible signal will sound twice. If there are people in the locked car and they open the door from the inside 30 seconds after locking it, the alarm is triggered. This applies to cars equipped with the SAFE function: After automatic locking, when the key is removed from the car, the SAFE function is deactivated. A beep sounds once to confirm that the car is locked and the SAFE function is deactivated. And: Settings Deactivate keyless locking Lock the vehicle with the button on the key. Touch the sensor on the external door handle with your finger within 5 seconds. Deactivation is confirmed by a single flash of the direction indicators. To check the deactivation, wait at least 10 seconds and then pull the exterior door handle. The door should remain locked. Keyless locking is automatically reactivated after the vehicle is unlocked. Permanent deactivation of keyless locking Select the Exterior menu in the Infotainment system. Select the screen with the Opening and closing item by swiping with your finger. Select Opening and closing KESSY. Activating/deactivating automatic unlocking when the key is in the vicinity of the vehicle Select the Exterior menu in the Infotainment system. Select the screen with the Opening and closing item by swiping with your finger. Select the Opening and closing Unlock vehicle when approaching. Activation/deactivation of automatic locking when leaving the car Select the Exterior menu in the Infotainment system. Select the screen with the Opening and closing item by swiping with your finger. Select the Opening and closing Lock vehicle when walking away. Sorry, looks like the copy doesn’t let me paste the symbol pictures…

ALL Skoda Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manuals carry this information on the air-conditioning's operating conditions The rear page of my car's EC Certificate of Conformity carries WLTP fuel-consumption data (litres/100km). The combined figure given is 5.7 equating to 49.56 British MPG. The fuel-consumption of one of my 1970s cars (a turbo-enhanced Reliant Scimitar GTE) could drop below 20mpg at the least provocation, so - if my Fabia can produce a genuine average consumption approaching 50mpg - I'll be delighted.

Hi, I am 70 and I just bought a 2007 fabia 2 for my daughter so she can drive to her aviation technical school in the winter. The car is in surprisingly good condition. A bit of rust at the bottom of the hatch back door. A tiny rusty paint chip on the bonnet. Its not obviously been resprayed but there is some kind of paint separation where the roof meets the side of the car on both sides. All new brake parts disks cables and hoses and stuff 2 years ago. I changed to winter tyres yesterday and noticed there is crumbling and flaking rust on what seems to be the power steering return line which for some reason sticks into the wheel area in one place. Hopefully I dont have to do much to the car! I have been repairing my own cars for years but I dont really know what I am doing without manuals or a source of knowledge from people who know what they are doing! :-) See you all on the forum! Andrew

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/471644-tech1e%E2%80%99s-%E2%80%98new%E2%80%99-fabia-slayer/

😬 I was not into the details of that, I honestly never had an issue in years ... will keep in mind, I can try cleaning well the threads next time instead

If you put all three at root level of your USB stick the system will know what to do when you initiate the update.

If you go into media on the Bolero radio you will see a choice of CD, SD card or AUX as sources. Cheaper versions do not have Aux so looking there will confirm if AUX is present or not. Manuals for your car and radio for all years are available from the sticky thread at the top.

It's actually more about keeping it cooler in proximity to a hot engine.

eBay UKBattery Shield Cover Replacement Battery Cover Car Repair...1 Battery Shield Cover. The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness. Part Num

Local Renault dealership sending me a V2L adapter FOC ! Had a bit of a moan about something on the PDI of my Evolution Urban range Renault 5 and they are sending me the V2L adapter FOC. It will run at up to 3.7 kw, 16A of course but has the uk 3 pin plug output so really 13A sort of 3 kw. Would be really good for blackouts or charging one of the other EVs if it was not around to charge at the cheap time but the R5 was !

I wouldn't consider life un-important Depending upon the wind it could be hanging around underneath and around the car. Doesn't need much to get in an enclosed space especially being warmer than the air above due to the heat from the exhaust. Neither is it good for the environment, a good sleeping bag would be a better option.

My TPMS retrofit on a MY18 Octavia works on both the headunit and virtual cluster at the same time...

Just out of curiosity… … if you use Waze and Spotify without Android Auto do you experience the same behaviour?

One of the advantages of the Kombi variable-height floor is the storage space beneath it in the raised position - roof bars, breaker bar, torque wrench, tow straps, golf umbrella, etc. all live under there.

Ha - it’s a good reminder though; I’ll need to get my winters out very soon. I have some Carpro CQuartz leftover so probably worth me doing that before they go on the car.

I just did this replacement yesterday, but since I had fit the other set myself everything came easy. I always use a long piece of pipe as a breaker bar to loosen anyway, so I save the effort of the power tool (accu parkside from lidl is actually good). Before refitting, a dab of copper grease on the nut threads and on the flange surface of the rim to hub is ideal to prevent corrosion and to make the job easier next time! When refitting, I go first by hand a couple turns, then power tool or by ratchet as it comes. If you have access to a torque wrench, try to tighten "by hand" and then measure how you did, this will give you an idea for that day you will be replacing a flat tire .... This time I decided to use only the car tools, to know what to expect in case of a flat tire, as I've never use the jack before ... good to try 🙃

I wouldn’t worry about start stop despite various videos doing the rounds warning about it. The cars are designed for it and the system is very sophisticated. For example it will even stop the engine with one cylinder at TDC so that re-start is essentially instantaneous.

Sunroof checks. Everything else can wait 😀

Yes and No. On the wife's Polo it was transformational. Reception was crystal clear. On mine it seems the reverse! It is worse and the secret menu shows ANT OFF. Maybe it was a duff base. I had bought one that suited the Octavia from the 'bay. Now bought the same one I used in the Polo so when I get a chance and the weather permits I'll swap it over and let you know.

Other thoughts. The 60km will be city too not any open road stuff. Also not sure what wheels and tyres are on the IV but my ICE RS the tyre pressure is 39psi not 33.

Here

I said the last update was the final one, but just to follow on briefly. I towed for the first time with the Octavia the other day - only a light motorbike trailer but the nose weight was about 40kg. The car wasn’t down by its arse at all, even with a toolbox and a few other bits in the back. Very pleased 👍🏻 Tom

Right, final update to this....and I've sorted it, eventually! The Suplex rear springs I mentioned above arrived and I excitedly got them fitted. Bear in mind they were 15mm longer than the original springs with a slightly thicker coil (12.2mm as opposed to 11.8mm)...I hoped they'd get it sitting nicely. The result was this hilarity: To be fair, that photo doesn't really do it justice! I could get my whole hand into the arch gap 😅 Sooo, back to the drawing board. I ended up taking another gamble on a set of Eibach R11339 rear springs. These correspond to weight range 8 (PR-0YH) and part number 5Q0 511 115 BF. Length 247mm, 12mm wire diameter. I took the opportunity to fit a Clubsport GTi rear ARB (22mm in place of the standard 20mm 245 rear ARB): As well as making sure all four camber/toe bolts were moving freely: New ARB drop links and bottom arm bolts and I got it down off the lift. Finally, the height I was after, ride unaffected and handling improved with the rear ARB: So, to bookend this whole thing. Weight range 8 (PR-0YH) seems to be about right for a 245 vRS retrofitted with a variable boot floor, rear towbar and with a spare wheel in place of the original tyre gel kit. Thanks to @Carlston for all of this advice throughout this thread. Got there in the end 👍 Tom