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I'm only a few miles from Ladybower and Howden and it's tanking it down again so fingers crossed eh? Attached is one taken there from earlier this year... The water should be visible in the background but it was too low given the drought

Had a trip out to the dams yesterday - Howden overflowing is always an impressive sight (and sound) 👍 Hopefully we'll see hosepipe bans lifted shortly, although perhaps not until Ladybower fills? - currently at 66% VID-20251122-WA0038.mp4

Its also possible that the wrong stat was used. I have seen two one is a lot lower temp than the other. Think one may be for very cold climate and the other hot but not sure.

Sounds like the thermostat is failing or stuck open. My old Octavia did this. Took ages to get upto temp and when it was cold weather only reached around 70 degrees plus heaters were really poor.

I purchased a new model year 2023 SE L (with winter+) and found this had the film type heated windscreen, which I had no issue looking through and was extremely effective in the cold weather. I then then traded this for a pre-reg Sportline Edition (June 2025) and was disappointed to find the heated screen in this car was the wire mesh type. I eventually adapted to it but found the wire mesh was a detriment to visual clarity. I guess Skoda just fit whatever is to hand/available at the point of manufacture?

I have 4 x Hankook Winter i*cept Evo tyres for sale on 16" steel rims. The size is 205/55/R16 94V. Although they are used there's pleny of tread left on them They were fitted to my 2011 Octavia but are also compatible with BMW's or any 5 lug wheel with the following specification. Centre/Hub Bore: 57.1 mm Bolt Pattern (PCD): 5 x 112 Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 I am also including 4 wheel trims (as pictured). Collection from the West Midlands. Price: £80

Yeah so we needed a bunch of apps. the car demands an app and it has a minimal suite of charging options but they are there. The error message is just that "there has been an error" no more information than that. As an IT person it grinds my gears when supplier hide the logs away. I could tell what was going on if I could see some logs. We have to have an app for the charger the Ohme app. We need to have an app for our energy supplier, Octopus. None of the apps are by choice. Octopus talks to the Ohme Ohme talks to octopus and the car The car only talks to Ohme. Spoke with my Mrs uncle who has had an ID3 for 3yr. He said that they had had the same issues with their car and that it would on occasion no charge properly and he never got a formal answer to why. His suspicion (and he's not daft) is that the VW software is the problem, it will often 'go to sleep' and not wake up the car systems to accept charge. I got the same story from the Octopus support guy, he talked about issues with VW's not waking up to accept charge. Uncle also suggested making sure that the charging target is the same in all places, the car has a limit that only changes in 10% increments, the charger does 5% increments. So the charger was set to 95% and the Car 100%. I've set them both to 90% now and last night it worked, nor errors. We did see the car on Sat morning where it failed again, the charger port on the car showed a red light when I unlocked and relocked the car. This was definitely green the night before. I unplugged and replugged the car and it immediately started charging. We've done a little research and apparently 100% on VWs is actually only 94%. Was an unoffical source. But I do think it's a bit out of order to say that a car does say 200 miles on a charge but then very forcefully set the car to only charge to 80% to 'preserve the battery'. Really the range should be on the 'recommended charge level'. We certailly didn;t pick the car based on 80% of it's max range nor did anyone at any point suggest that we would only get 80% or would damage the car..

AFAIK, the OBD data is from the sensor - but I believe that the temperature gauge can indicate a stabilised reading of 90 deg. C over a fairly wide range of temperatures. The OBD reading is likely to give actual temperatures.

It's been a couple of years to be honest. The stat was changed in January due to this issue and the problem persisted for the rest of the winter but did ease once the summer arrived as you say. I tested the heater when it was hot weather and it came out nice and warm but now I have to run it for 30 minutes or more before I get much heat. It certainly does seem to point to a faulty stat I think.

@pw2112 Paul, It could be a few things: Based on the details you've provided and the search results I've reviewed, there are several common causes for water ingress in vehicles like your 2009 Skoda Octavia estate. The issue with your blower not producing hot air is also a known consequence, as serious water ingress can lead to electrical problems. Here are the most likely sources of the leak for you to investigate: Potential Cause Description & Key Clues Blocked Scuttle Drains 🍂 The drain channels under the windscreen wipers (scuttle panel) clog with leaves. Water overflows into the cabin, often near the pollen filter. Faulty Pollen Filter Seal The seal around the pollen filter housing (located in the scuttle panel) can fail. A displaced or cracked cover lets water drip directly into the footwell. Failed Door Membrane 🚪 The plastic moisture barrier behind the door card can perish or become unsealed. Leaks from doors often soak the lower carpet. Leaking Rear Washer Pipe The pipe to the rear window washer can crack or disconnect, leaking water that runs along the floor to the front. 🔧 A Step-by-Step Guide to Finding the Leak Given that your blower won't blow hot air, it's crucial to address this promptly to avoid more costly electrical repairs. Here is a logical sequence to track down the source: 1. Inspect the Scuttle Panel Area First: This is the most common culprit. Open the bonnet and look at the area at the bottom of the windscreen, where the wiper mechanisms are. · Clear the Drains: Remove any leaves, twigs, and debris you find. Then, slowly pour a small amount of water into the drainage channels and see if it drains freely out near the front wheels. If it's blocked, carefully clear it. · Check the Pollen Filter: The housing for the cabin pollen filter is located here. Check if the waterproof cover is cracked, misplaced, or improperly sealed. A faulty seal here would allow water to flow directly into the passenger footwell. 2. Inspect the Door Seals: If the scuttle area is clear, the next step is to check the doors. · Remove the interior door card to inspect the plastic waterproof membrane behind it. On older VAG group cars (like Skoda, VW), this membrane can perish or come unglued, allowing water that enters the door to leak into the cabin. 3. Check the Rear Washer Pipe: This is a very common issue in estates and hatchbacks. · Have someone operate the rear window washer while you listen in the footwell and along the door sills. If you hear gurgling or see water, you've found the leak. The pipe can disconnect at joints under the dashboard or along the sill trim. 4. Don't Forget the Sunroof: While your search results didn't mention one, if your car has a sunroof, its drain hoses (which run down the A-pillars) can become blocked or disconnected, causing water to dump into the footwell. 🚨 Immediate Actions You Should Take Before you find the source, and to prevent further damage, here's what you should do right away: · Remove the Water: Soak up as much water as possible with towels. For the large pool under the carpet, using a wet/dry shop vacuum is the most effective method. This is crucial to start the drying process. · Dry the Area Thoroughly: After extracting the water, promote drying by lifting the carpet if possible and using a powerful fan or a dehumidifier in the car for a day or two. Lingering moisture will continue to cause condensation and mold. · Address the Electrical Issue: The problem with your blower not blowing hot is likely related to water damage. Moisture can corrode connectors and control modules under the seat or dashboard. Once the area is completely dry, the electrical function may return, but corroded components may need professional inspection and replacement. Not my work but an AI that I use Hopefully it’s helpful John

The 115 definitely felt more driveable and had a bit more 'go', especially at higher speeds without being in any danger of what you'd call a licence loser. The difference in the insurance premium is small so that isn't a factor. Cosmetic condition aside, the 115 felt more suitable for motorway driving with its 6th gear as it seemed to hang around the 2100/2200 rpm mark at 70 as opposed to nearly 3000 rpm on the 95. Both cars seemed comparable on 30 and 40 roads with the 95 appearing to have taller gearing making the engine have to work harder to get up to speed. At the moment we're just having to trust that the dealer will deliver on their promise that the 115 car will come up well after prep, especially the roof situation as I do believe it's the right engine and gearbox combo to go for. I suppose I'm just covering our options in case it doesn't!

It's not impossible that the new thermostat is faulty - or was damaged while being fitted.

The thing is brother, gearshifts improve dramatically once ive been driving for 20-30 minute, so i doubt cables. As for gear oil im not sure as i took it to a vw specialist near me, but it was misbehaving before chsnging gear oil which leads me to believe its not the oil. Im yet to bleed to system, but if that doesnt do anything ill go thw garage route and see if its either the master or slave cylinder. I hopw its not the syncromesh rings cos i might as wrll buy a new box at that point

Thank you Lee01 👍 much appreciated

@lol-lol Warmer but torrential rain and AC and Demisting screen on all the time.@ 14 V here and usually 13.8-14.1 V shows & then at 14 V steady. It would pretty much do 160 miles at this state of charge. 89%. Voltage 383.

I am developing a theory that car manufacturers are lowering the point at which cars shows 100% charged. Now they are being forced to give 8 year battery warranties where the battery must still have 70% capacity. Manufacturers will assume the worse I think where an EV is charged up to 100% every night for several years. So those of use who only charge to 80% usually, 100% occasionally are probably being too soft on the car. Will go for 100% on R5 during the week for a little trip to South Wales, changing to 95% i got back with only 3% abd tgat was with choosing the A road route back rather than Motorway. Doing the 100% i will see if it adds more than 5% of related mileage and diesel a cell balancing which i understand they do. My R5 has 93 of the 3.7v L ion cell blocks, 52 kwh R5 has 186 cells but in two rows of smaller cell packs. My Urban 40 kw R5 can get 81 kw charging so not too bad a delay if I gave to splash and dash or zap and bolt i suppose. Not regretting going for tge 40 over the 52 kwh yet by the cold weather is invoking some thought.

Thank God the cold spell seems to over for a few days. I have my Renault 5 Evolution model, 40 kwh battery nominal, 43 kwh actual, repkacing the good old Zoe which was 52 / 55 kwhs battery size. Here in middle England where we do not get much sea temperature moderation we had -5c at night and not really above zero by day. R5 and Mini showing 120 mile range when charged to 80 to 80% OMG. Just charged the 60 / 65 kwh Scenic abd that is showing 165 miles at dawn. Trip to stag do in Bournemouth is going to be a challenge as is about 130 miles cross country or 160 miles using faster motorway and charging stops not great in Dorset and Wiltshire. Challenging.

Mine's a November 2021 car, but I have the same infotainment system and that system info is exactly what I saw on it, except that the navigation database was 24.7 and is now 25.8. I don't see any reason why the update wouldn't work for you. The update seems flexible, out of 13 modules listed during the process it showed some that were N/A, so presumably only used if the car had certain features.

Not many left, harder to find MK1's in the last couple of years. I'd look in the new year, these seem to pop up in the summer. Keep holding out in the FB Groups I'm sure someone will reply with one for sale.

ABS sensor or battery does make all these lights flash up. Just to throw a swerve ball in there I had a fault where car would temporarily lose power like a hiccup when driving, it also went into limp mode twice, I changed out the oil pressure regulator sensor and cured the faults.

I went through two sets of Dunlops Sportmaxx and they both did exactly that. Cracked along the longitudinal tread grooves. I've moved onto Michelin cross climate 2s now and they are far better. Much quieter too.

Not going to be much help, here, as the only fix I've heard of is the bypass kit. However, mine has been doing it for 2 years, on and off, and I just ignore it. I did read of a suggestion to move the lever back and foward from P to D 50 times to "unstick" the faulty switch, but it didn't work for me. Sorry.

Ah - just to clarify the "AC"s ... are you saying the Air Conditioning/Heating doesn't work during Alternate Current charging? That explains something I've seen on my 1.5 PHEV this week (I don't actually have a Skoda any more but it's still a VW Group car so I assume I have a very similar system). When charging from AC, I started the heating from the app but the charging then stopped.

The Chinese cars are so well appointed and safe in the main brands. A few things I worry about like their real range ie less range buffer. But also as the EU investigation into state subsidies and the consequential countervailing duties mean that it is that China is involved in under mining the EU and possible UK EV production to eliminate that competition. Fortunately we have Korea doing its bit and maybe we will see Vietnam and other SE Asian countries to challenge Chinese dominance. Their historic 1 child policy can come back to bight them and India might also become more of a chalenge too.

I actually found it in a Polo service manual i found here. But of course any additional insights are welcome.

Instead of dragging the car fire thread off topic, I'll reply here: Indeed: InsideEVsThe Safest Cars On Sale In Europe Now Are Chinese EVsThe Tesla Model 3 keeps its position as Europe’s safest car, but it too is made in China, and is followed by mostly Chinese cars." The overall ranking still has the China-made Tesla Model 3 at the top, even though it has a lower occupant protection score of 90%, but it makes up in the other categories. The surprise second-place entrant is Nio’s Firefly, with its 96% occupant protection score, which is the highest Euro NCAP has ever recorded. It’s followed by the Tesla Model Y, the Smart #5 and BYD Seal 6. "

I thought you are connected via Ohme? The car cloud API only used to tell Ohme the car's SoC. With Octopus stopping and starting charging, those notifications are normal. I get one each time Octopus stops charging. However charging error notification is interesting, what does it say exactly and do you get explanation of error when you open it?

Again, me, me, me, me. Not willing to see the much bigger picture.

Hello, returning member, been a member since 2008 but ben away after I sold my Octavia Ambient in 2023. Now back and after a yellow Mk1 vrs. UK based.

Mine did the update the other day and it's a MY23 RS, it downloaded it quickly as I was near UniS in Guildford and it updated without any further interventions or hassles, no need to do a factory reset or anything. It then did a set of 6 additional updates the next time it started and they all went in uneventfully and all fine and good so far.

@Breezy_Pete fantastic help as ever 🙂

Skoda don't sell it as a complete thing with motor, but as far as I can see, for RHD cars The motor is 5J2 955 113 A The main bit of the mechanism is 5J2 955 605 B Note the 3rd character is 2 for both of the above, not negotiable. The linkages are 5J0 955 325 for right hand side, 5J0 955 326 for left hand side (both as viewed from driving position).

Accident repair and all that's associated with it is a money rolling and making exercise with so many fingers in the pie (possibly up to something like 12 so I've heard on national radio). I'd never heard of Škoda Ensurance and assumed it was a typo but on having a quick look I did notice "We’re making some important updates to our free Ensurance service. Any policies with a start date on or after 18th November 2025 will include the following changes: . . .". And "Ensurance from Škoda Financial Services is sold and administered by Lawshield UK Limited and underwritten by UK General Insurance Limited on behalf of Watford Insurance Company Europe Limited." I think the likes of @DAN@ADRIAN FLUX and @ChrisKnottIns are best to comment and advise on this, if they want to or allowed, bearing in mind they have a finger in the pie(s). Škoda Ensurance (towards bottom of page. - https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/skoda-insurance Ensurance - https://insurewithskoda.vwfs.co.uk/ensurance.html HTH.

Key in pocket can sometimes not be detected, another issue can be where your mobile phone is in relation to the key I get "Key not detected" every now and again in my Skoda

A 5w30 or 0w30 meeting the 504 spec will be fine.

thankyou @MartinB for the 2026 maps

Thanks Simon, that worked for me

Car: August 2021 OTA no reset

Thanks, all, for the help & software. The update from 0302 to 0308 went smoothly, and almost immediately afterwards I got an offer of an OTA update. My guess is that the requirement to first go to 0308 when updating from pre-308 to post-308 was perhaps blocking any recent updates. The OTA update didn't change the version number, but after a week I then manually updated to 0332, which also went smoothly. Now that I'm on 0332 I will see what other OTA updates might come along. Next, update the maps from 24.7 to 25.8... Cheers, Steve

I’ve just updated my car to 1989 via usb. I haven’t factory reset yet. Seems fine at the moment although I will reset when I get time. My details are: Octavia Mk4 1.5TSI Estate Manual - SE First Edition Infotainment Hardware: H56 Display Unit/Control Panel Hardware: H44 Display Unit/Control Panel Software: 2088

This is the email I just got: Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft

Here you go chaps @chrisgreen @SteveMcK This is my ftp site where I got 308, 330 and 332 (saved them in case mibsolution went down again). Linkety-link Download each one, and unzip onto a USB-C memory stick (USB-A if you have the alternative plug in the armrest storage). It only needs to be 8Gb. In case you're not sure: Plug into USB port, then hold Menu button until it asks to update software - it'll reboot into Engineering Mode (black screen with small red font) and its pretty logical from there. All touchscreen still and some things you may need to tap twice. Doesn't take very long. Ideally plug a battery charger in but if the battery's good and its had a decent run to be nicely charged then that'll be all you need.

As a qualified tech trained in ADAS too I can promise you geometry and wheel alignment make a huge difference. To start with the radar has no way of knowing direction of travel without steering wheel input and setting the radar up to be perfectly parallel to the cars straight ahead alignment (done off the rear axle) this is done to a tolerance of 1-2mm to give you an example of how import it is. The radar doesnt look straight ahead and know everything and its position relative to the car, it needs to be told this and thats why it needs calibrating. Adjusting alignment, front bracket placement, replacing suspension components, moving subframes all have the chance to throw this out.