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I found from internet code error FAZ2781E This part is locked, please replace it with another one. FAZ4990E The part is stolen. 🚫Use of stolen parts is prohibited! FAZ9484E FAZ9488E This part or gateway is damaged and cannot be adapted online. FAZ2946E The used part(cluster/instrument/tcu/ecu/...) does not work, please replace it with a brand new one. FAZ1224E There is a problem with the data of the cluster/instrument. Please replace it with a new one. FAZ1243E There is a problem with the Gateway. Please replace it with a new one. FAZ1531E The key is already bound to another vehicle. FAZ1532E Aftermarket spare key, and the key cannot be used. Please use an original key or order a new key from the dealer. FAZ1552E The key has expired. New keys are valid for 90 days. FAZ9113S There is an issue with the parts. Use our online login to help you identify the problem. ERP4711E ODIS license problem. Contact us to solve it. FAZ4160E Login blocked. Contact us to solve it

Lots of rain during the day yesterday, then hard freeze last night. All five doors frozen shut this morning 😆. Luke warm water had to be poured around the perimeter of each to free them. Engine then wasn't very eager to start. Gummi pflege will be generously applied on Saturday.

I hate leaving unresolved threads. I noticed that when I would brake the car wouldnt make the noise. A bit of googling, found this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519351-front-nearside-clunking-over-bumps-but-not-when-braking/ The car had recently had pads and disks. Took it back to the garage who swapped the pads and the noise is now gone.

Given your test figures, very likely that your battery is still serviceable.

It's a pretty simple process, you can see where there's oil on the dipstick or not. Now regarding check on a warm or cold engine, I always check when the engine is cold. You're then checking the level of oil that has settled back to the sump. I've always done this whatever the advice in the manual on every car, never, ever had any engine troubles.

Spotted this earlier.......

Hmm...the operation of the clutch in a DSG isn't within the control of the user. OK, you could abuse it, but it would take sustained deliberate intent to do it - the gearbox electronics should take care of the clutch. On the SEAT forum someone sued their dealer over a clutch failure in an early 1 litre manual at low mileage - they got an expert to say it should last 75K miles and they won in full. I'm gobsmacked there's any issue on a 33K mile DSG. The car is much newer and has a different engine to clutch slip article above. Are you sure the dealer has asked, and, of so, appealed? I just had a heater panel replaced on our 7yr old 90K mile Ateca under All In - it had crackled where the heated seat buttons are. Dealer initially said no, I asked them to ask again and All In came back and said yes. Job cost was £888. The knocking noise you're hearing might be the suspension piston knocking in the bump stops. Ours does it - it's a known thing and they grease the pistons and it stops for a while then comes back. It's most noticeable when the car is loaded and making slow turns. If it's not that, then there's a whole bunch of other known suspension noises, including the strut top mounts.

See photo and link added to my previous post just now, if you want to gamble on cheap generic fuel hose. If you'd like me to look up genuine part numbers (and prices) for your car, let me know the VIN.

This is normal behaviour, if you use a paddle the gearbox responds and after awhile goes back to the automatic setting, it’s for knocking down a gear to pass someone for example. If you use sport mode overall or select sport for the gearbox with the toggle then using a paddle will switch to manual and stay there until you toggle back out of it or hold the up paddle in which does the same thing (cycles from manual to sport to drive)

Thanks guys. All good Intel. I will replace both thermostats as bits need to be taken off anyway, and it will save revisiting the issue I hope. Someone on YouTube described my problem and it was the DSG one as the issue was still there after an engine thermo replacement. I will update when it's done. My old Norton Dominator 99 Cafe Racer is a lot easier to work on!

It seems that you purchased parts that are registered as stolen in VW server☹️

Consumer Rights Act 2015: all goods over £100 in value are guaranteed for 6 year .Yes Six under certain conditions. Retailers ignore or are ignorant of this law. I was cheated in the same way. I have recovered in various issues about £3k .If no resonse go to CitizensAdvice Bureau or direct to Trading Standards. Ps a small triumph: through TS i got a fishpaste company to stop selling its " fishpaste" as it only had 3% fish in it BOL

Unfortunately I don’t think it’s possible and it reverts back to normal mode every time, I’m lead to believe it’s part of the regulations that it must start in the mode in which it was certified for emissions, fuel consumption etc.

Almost over 87,000 EV chargers live across the UK then, 4 countries that is, not across the country. Is there something wrong with those that do Government Websites and press articles?

I dislike cruise control let alone this active(?) cruise control but I know there is a thread about the retro fitting, not as straightforward as some might think so if you've not already seen that thread it may well help you (or you might decide to just clean up your existing wiper stalk). Up to you but not just for this but generally, if it was my car I would fully recharge the battery to 100% as the car is new to you and given the approach of winter. As the battery seems good it wont take as long as it could but could still take many hours and more than one session if you need to use the car in the meantime. Also if you know the battery is fully charged then you have a data point for it to judge from if and when it might need (or you want) changing, you might need the money for other issues on the car. Same reason I'd not doing any cosmetic or upgrade work on a car until I'd run it for a while and thought it might be reasonably reliable, I'd stick with preventative maintenance, servicing and repairs as required. starting with the important things like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres of course) safety electrics and reflective number plates. Good luck.

So I tested my battery this morning and it told me what I thought I would see.... VOL = 12.39 SOC = 65% SOH = 53% That is certainly a battery that is past its best I think it has to be dead before you get a "Poor" indication. So this matches up with the theory that as poor battery is going to cause you issues with ACC and HORN. So I will replace it soon and will let you know if I ever see this issue after changing the battery.

It's definitely the original battery. It's a Banner model that isn't in production any more, and is embossed in multiple places with a manufacture date of week 33 2016 which is two weeks before the car left the factory (I have the build data from VIN). After reading up a bit more on how stop/start systems maintain the battery charge level, I decided not to buy a new battery - for now at least. I'm convinced the issue is the stalk, which I intend to swap out to retrofit cruise anyway. So I'll pick it up as part of getting the replacement stalk coded, should the washer still not work. Thanks for your help, I'll update the thread if/when I get a resolution.

Manufaturers Warranty & DSG Clutch Plates are covered. Extended / Approved UsedWarranty they are excluded. So 'All in Warranty' requires the reading of the T&C,s SKODA_Warranty_Terms_August 2025.pdf Approved used warranty booklet.pdf

I also forgot to mention, that once the engine was on TDC compression stroke we looked at the valves and they were closed completely (No. 1 cylinder valves as they should be) Cheers!

Its probably the window regulator thats either broken some plastic clips or cable has snapped/got wrapped round something. You have to drill out rivets to replace the regulator. On my sons fabia they are large special rivets and probably the same on the octavia. Part number for fabia mk1 rivet is N 910 788 01 They are 6.4 x 10 size rivets and you will need a heavy duty rivet gun to replace them. I got a riveter similar to this from amazon. Make sure it does 6.4mm Shop around for the rivets they vary a lot in price. Alasdair

All that sounds like the battery is fine, worth recharging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. To full for any diagnosis of electrical (and starting) issues to help rather than hinder with diagnostics that can go on for a long time and drain the battery and also possibly upset the Gods that are the car's computer systems that will make you suffer. If you take a (landscape) photo of your battery and post it we might be able to confirm if it is from factory or not if that would help with your deciding to replace it. The fuse for your wipers may not be the same as on my wife's Fabia you would need a wiring diagram for your car to be sure which might mean by VIN number or at least part year of car build, 2016 can mean marketing model year, was registered in 2016 but made before or really was made sometime in 2016. I think my wife's 2015 is sometimes referred to as 2016 MY despite being registered September 2015 and possibly have some bits from from April 2015.

Also, the DSG should be remapped as well. Which should almost always be TVS.

Bunch of Renault / Alpine cars as well, as the now get the full Government £3750 grant..... Also the German made Mini Countryman Electric Just asking Renault dealer if they can get me the extra £2250, as i only got £1500 grant, would bring my buy price down to well under £20k, but AI is saying it is not likely, ah well. GOV.UKFour more EV models qualify for £3,750 discount under Ele...Government doubles the number of models available for the top ECG discount.The eligible vehicles are: Citroën ë-C5 Aircross Long Range. Ford E-Tourneo Courier. Ford Puma Gen-E. MINI Countryman Electric. Nissan LEAF. Renault 4. Renault 5 (52 kWh) Renault Alpine A290.

I suspect the car is not 'waking up' after going into standby mode while waiting for the charger to start. There has been an issue with VAG EVs where the on board charger (OBC) does not wake up after standby mode, but I would have thought your Elroq is too new for that to be happening as the problem is fixed. There are plenty of discussions online about this problem and how to fix it, if you search for them. Another thing you might want to try to rule out problems with the timer / granny charger is to remove the mains timer and use the car's built in charge timer to start charging at your desired times. This may help with the car not waking up properly too. Using the car's built in timer is electrically safer than using a mains timer. The timer can be set in the infotainment charging screen. HTH

let them flash original ecu software and then see how it works. i would not ever buy remapped car. mine is remapped but when and if i will sell it i will do flash original software. that car probably have missfires, which can be seen on diagnostic tool. they probably lied.

If changing oil in a DQ200 DSG then 'Simply clever' to change both oils. Maybe around £200 done at an Automatic Specialist, or nearer £300 at a main dealership. But first best to have the engine running efficiently. The spark plug schedule is 40,000 miles / 4 years.

The OP’s car is in the UK, and so far as I’m aware will have the DQ200 fitted.

I assume the Koiaq is the same as my Karoq. The heated mirrors and heated rear window are independant, you can clear the mirrors without the rer window heater on. IThe conditions were right to check yesterday morning.

I’m curious! After 67k miles I remain impressed with the standard LED headlights in my 2020 mk4 Octavia. Makes me wonder if yours has a fault in some way (a failed diode or two? Faulty beam range adjuster? 🤷‍♂️).

Panic over! I spent the evening unseating and reseating each fuse and relay - and giving each relay a sharp knock! All this did not make any difference, but then playing with the switch, I noticed that if I pressed hard on the key and turned the key very slowly, the lights came on and promptly went off again... so, faulty switch!

Hello everyone, I have great news. Me and my friend took the valve cover off, turned the crankshaft and got the engine to TDC compression stroke (I have confirmed this as I took out the spark plug and placed my finger there) Now, we looked at the distributor, and it was pointing to spark plug no. 4. So we took the distributor out and lined it up so that it would fire on spark plug no. 1. After that we tried to start the car and voila, it started but some 5 seconds later the rpm dropped from 1500 to some 700 - 800, and that's when i turned off the car and called it a day. I suspect that the distributor timing is not 100% correct and that the carburettor has to be adjusted as well. Your thoughts? Cheers! PS. So I would say that the camshaft is set correctly after all, both the crankshaft and the camshaft. I think that the engine is timed correctly! @Thefeliciahacker @Warrior193 @D.FYLAKTOS @nta16

Yeah it dropped to about 11v I think (certainly not under 10v), only tried it once though. Stop/start is working fine too btw.

Hello and welcome to Briskoda @Daanio 👏 There's a few fellow bikers on here as well.

Have you tested the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked? - this is a reasonable, ad hoc, load test for condition.

I’m running 39. My last car had 225/45 18s and I ran 37-38. I have tried a few psi less and it just seemed to have more movement. I don’t find the ride bad at 39 although I have DCC. My oem tyres are Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersports. Most people underinflate their tyres which leads to less grip, less fuel efficiency and more wear.

No UK-specification Fabia Mk4 has a heated windscreen as standard. When ordering a new Fabia, one of the options is a Winter Premium package (current cost £560). This package comprises Heated windscreen Heated front seats Washer fluid level indicator Heated front seats can be chosen as a stand-alone option (currently £250) but, if a buyer were uninterested in having heated seats, it's not possible to specify a heated windscreen as a stand-alone option. If a buyer of a new UK Fabia wants a heated screen, the Winter Premium package must be opted for.

Check for leaks of the gearbox oil. Do you do a lot of short trips? Might be worth having gearbox oil and filter changed.

Skoda themselves do several versions of the dipstick for the Kamiq 1.0 (I assume it depends on the actual version / year of the car and engine) some with a metal "rod". I know because when I got my Kamiq in March and went to check the oil the next day, the dipstick was stuck and on pulling it firmly out the yellow plastic handle cracked where it joined the metal "rod". I researched dipsticks on line. However, the dealer ordered another for me (at no cost) and that one has been OK. Note that Skoda advise checking when the engine has been warmed to working temperature and then allowed to stand to let the oil drain back - I think the dipstick is easier to remove if the tube is warm. My metal rodded dipstick is also not particularly easy to read given the type of thin synthetic oils now used in engines. If you get an alternative dipstick ensure that the markings are at the same level as the one that came with the car to ensure correct readings.

LG are the market leader, they also make the screens for a number of other manufacturers. The TVs differ with the processing electronics. OLED have improved somewhat in the last couple of years, though arguably they haven’t been that bad imo. I always thought LG were a budget brand but they lead with TV’s. I’ve had a 65” gallery (G series) model, and the 55” C series. Same screens except the g series is super thin with a small bezel. I’ve just installed a 2024 77” G series. It’s stunning tbh. I buy the previous years model before it’s sold out and get some cracking deals. There’s not a huge step change between updated models really and certainly not worth paying an extra £2K for. Hope that helps, all the best with whatever you choose.

If you DO have the control shown in the photo then you DON'T have HID (xenon) lights.

Nearly a full wall of south facing glass and an old plasma is fine. Pretty certain either would be no problem and you’re better off looking at a decent set of blinds to minimise glare.

*UPDATE* Thought I'd post this in case it helps someone else. Due to the noise getting louder when turning right but sounding like the front and me having already replaced NSF, I've spent a long time agonising over whether to try NSR or OSF first. Long story short, after feeling vibration through the pedals, I decided to try OSF first and it has fixed the issue. Learning point is that the convential thinking of the bearing that is loaded when cornering becoming noisier isn't necessarily correct

There is no certainty, like you I find it impossible to spin a wheel up to check for bearing noise against the resistance of the brake caliper, driveshaft and differential, and in the case of the rear wheel rotating the crownwheel, propshaft and planet gears against the other stationary driveshaft, some on here reckon that is rubbish and it can easily be done, I reckon their mechanical experience does not go beyond a keyboard. Steering to the right increases the loading on both LH wheel bearings and reduces it on the RH ones, if I had replaced the front LH bearing my next one would be the LH rear but I cannot be certain. I have what I think is diff bearing noise after making the classic error when changing the Haldex oil but its really hard to track down, sometimes at low speed I hear scraping from what I believe is the NSR but without standing outside while someone else replicates the noise I cant be sure, both rear wheels when jacked up seem ok, brake pads wih plenty of meat, no dragging, backplates not rusted or fractured, I fitted my winter wheels this week while sourcing new tyres, now what I thought was diff noise seems louder, maybe its tyre noise and lack of insulation, I have the rear seats and parcel shelf removed permanently.

That's true this part register to stolen.

You're right is a dq200 i've mistaken the service intervals with the dq250, still once in a life oil change is not bad is 1,9L of oil nothing too expensive

Yes the 1.2 TSI 86 bhp or the 105 bhp (same engine just different tune) come also with manual (on the fabia is a very funny engine even more if you tune it to 130bhp). Look also for fuel service history and very importantly, the dsg gearbox needs to be serviced every 40k miles. If you need anything, feel free to ask, i know this engine very well.