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Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct. Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻 Thanks all for you help.

@East_Yorkshire_Retrofits should be able to carry out those retrofits.

Been a wee bit since I last posted on here... and since I used my DSLR (Canon EOS 400D... 17 years old - if it ain't broke!), I stumbled upon these though. Cheers.

Well, I decided to do the old Throttle Body clean today and oh my word the amount of crud and soot deposits in there was ridiculous. After looking a quite a few vids on how to do do it and may I say making it look like child's play, I decided to give it a bash, after all, how hard could it be.....right? Wrong!! Unless you have arms like Stretch Armstrong (reference for anyone over 40) and hands like a schoolgirl, this is anything but easy. Fiddly is an understatement and the lack of room is quite something. Anyway, rant over about the supposed difficulty level (or my lack of skills) take a look at just how manky it actually was.

I think every 4 or 5 years is spot on to be honest. The Yeti has the cheaper gas (my Audi was 3x the cost at the same garage). Might help the compressor as well if things are running low?

Plenty of people (including me) have reported that they still get cutting-out when stop-start is disabled. That's with the manual gearbox. Cutting-out also happens to people with the DSG, though far fewer have reported that, and most find the DSG car will re-start by pressing the throttle pedal, which certainly can't be done with the manual. So far as I know, nobody who has experienced cutting-out with a DSG has said whether or not disabling stop-start has had any effect. As I said in some earlier post, the stop-start system may or may not be implicated in this fault, but if so, it is an incorrect (faulty) operation of that system. Or some other system!

What is most concerning is that VW do not seem to acknowledge the problem when it has been reported right across their range for several years now. A previous post suggested that the complex nature of the engine could be the answer so that a slight maladjustment causes the stall. This could be why only some owners experience the problem. It has happened to me on several occasions but the worst aspect is that it is completely unpredictable so can give rise to frightenining scenarios. The Karoq will be my last VW group car.

I did for you. 🙂 Thanks. AG Falco

Bit of an update. The nearside reversing light wasn't working again and the 'Check Reversing Light' message was displayed along with the Triangle - what I now refer to as the 'Bermuda Triangle'. A quick tap on the light unit and the reversing light comes back on. So light of replies received I decided to remove the light unit and examine the bulbs and contacts. First though a few hints and tips regarding the cluster removal. The light unit is held by two Torx head screws on one side, on the other, outer, side where the unit meets the rear wing its a push fit over two studs, a plastic trim removal blade is required to prise the unit off the studs. The cable that plugs into the socket on the backplate backplate does not have enough slack to allow the plug to be removed so the backplate has to be unclipped. There are 4 or 5 clips that all have to be released. Being plastic care has to be taken not to snap them off. I found pressing the backplate onto the unit body by each clip would reduce the pressure on the clip which made it easier to release, work round each clip in turn and its released. There are two small bulbs that are outside the backplate, they both twist 90 degrees to release and pull out. The plug on the cable can be released by pressing the side by the red plastic which will release the clip. The contacts were not corroded, the only thing I did notice was that the reversing bulb was not as securely held as all the other bulbs. After removing and refitting the bulb a number of times I come to the conclusion that it needed to be inserted firmly and twisted into position until it located in an indent to hold the little pins on the body of the bulb. Doing this the bulb seemed secure. Put it all back together and everything is now working as it should - it remains to be seen for how long though......I smeared some Silicone grease over each of the clips on the backplate and their mating points on the light body - it makes it easier to slide on and off.

As long as the windows work I dont think it matters but try both again with ignition on and also engine running. This came from Ai but for once its right. I normally bypass whatever google Ai comes up with. This procedure recalibrates the window's upper and lower limits. Close Window: Turn the ignition on. Roll the window all the way up using the switch, but keep holding the switch up for an extra 5 seconds after it's fully closed. Open Window: Roll the window all the way down, and keep holding the switch down for another 5 seconds after it's fully open. Test: Try the one-touch function. It should now work. If this doesnt work it may be something else thats the problem. I would hold switch for 10 secs to be sure. Worked for me so hope it works for you Alasdair

https://ebay.us/m/ZlXaaL

No, None! Bought it when it was a couple of years old ( doubt any aircon service done before I bought it ) and have had it ever since .. replaced the rear springs some years ago as one of them had broken... Problem now is wires going to drivers door.....well, that 'n I'm old & its old ( all strictly O/T as its not a Yeti )

Try holding switch down for 5-10secs once window is fully up and also fully down. I changed battery in my mk2 octy and lost one touch window control until I reset windows. They wouldnt work from key fob either until I did the process of holding window switch Alasdair

All you can do is: Check the setting if you have any control to tell the car if it's loaded or not. Park on a flat surface and mark the position of the dipped beams on a wall. Then turn on main beam and mark those positions. You should be able to see the dipped beam is clearly dipped. If you think the dip is misaligned or not working then it's a trip to the dealer. Note: LED lights are causing a lot of complaints from those who still don't have LED's

It as said may take longer than 3 miles to get car upto temp especially in colder weather. If it doesnt get up to temp after a longer run I would suspect failing thermostat. Had same on my Octavia. Only reached temp in summer. The lack of drive when cold may point to low transmission fluid or the transmission fluid is past it. If its red ATF then it should be a nice cherry red colour. If its past it it will look dirty brown. Changed mine on an old auto people carrier and had big improvement in taking off and gear changes. If its a DSG box it may need serviced. Alasdair

Altering driving style can help some people to work around the fault. But I resist the idea that the fault is with the driver or the driving style. It's with the car.

Even if the key fob battery is dead, the immobiliser chip in the fob can activate the system by being placed in close proximity to the start button. But highly inconvenient to just let the fob battery go dead when you know it's on way out.

Good choice of colour (biased), and petrol might be the way to go, but I guess it also depends on what's available to purchase. If I were in your shoes, I'd go for petrol

I purchased some brand-new original centre caps with the Skoda emblem on. The eBay item number is 203473088504 and the part number 6U0601151.

The only thing that comes close to a misfire in mine is when it goes into 2-cylinder mode. The slightest of hesitation. It’s not every time; mostly notice it when the engine is under light load with ACC engaged, rarely at other times.

Like most things in life, there is always a body of people who will game things if they can get away with it.

Personally the new ppm for hybrids and EV’s put me off longer, nor would I get a hatchback as estates much more appealing

With observations, I'm ashamed to say that having driven our 85 Edition for 11k miles over the past 9 months, I only discovered this weekend how to wash the rear view camera ☹️

View through a window the other day - caught my eye as I was passing.

Look also for the spark plugs leads because there was 2 versions of leads one without heating insulation like a black plastic pipe, and with the heat generated by the engine they were failing early that they should, vw upgraded the leads with the insulation and they last way longer

Glad it’s all sorted. And a tick in the box for Hortons too.

Maybe not the same issue with this age of Skoda Fabia, but, I've found on some at least an older VW Polo, that the rear light cluster bulb contacts were now being made from steel that is galvanised to resist corrosion, and these steel contacts are very strong and so can end up distorting the lead(?) solder blob on the ends of the bulbs - that ends up creating a poor/intermittent/lost contact - that I resolved the first time by just replacing the bulb, next time I reflowed the solder on the original bulb and refitted it. Just another example of "progress" (cheapness) creating a problem down the line.

I thought of reporting to a Mod but then that removes the possibility of reply posts here such as yours, I also wonder which gearbox and engine and actually typed it but decided those in the Mk2 forum and others here would know a lot more about it. Plus it means getting into asking lots of other questions, how long in ownership, previous service maintenance, etc., etc.. And of course the issue might be elsewhere. Being non-technical I can appreciate being in that position and getting over technical answers and questions. The things I would try as a non-technical, but experienced car owner, often seems to upset some of the purist more technical and engineers and their type plus of course the VW "fanboys".

A mod can maybe move to the Fabia Mk2 section where the other post is. ? Did you have the car last winter when cold? What engine does the Fabia have? I take it you have a 7 speed twin clutch DSG, a DQ200. How many miles has the car done? There might well be an issue with the DSG. Or, is it a late registered 1.6 petrol with a Tiptronic Automatic box?

Hopefully this won't be the case for you but if you get more problems in the future with something similar in the same area don't think it can't be with a new part just because the part is new as some (many?) modern made parts can be crap or poorly or very poorly made and not be very reliable or work at all from new or not last as long as they should. Autodoc may sell many different makes of the same part but that part may be made by the same manufacturers despite being in different brand label boxes or bags, and this can include some of the bigger older brand names. For cleaning connectors and connections any electrical contact cleaning spray is a very good start, crud needs more effort sometimes. For moving parts a switch cleaning lubricant. Just unplugging and plugging back in multiple times (electric supply disconnected or isolated) can clean up some old connectors and for switches with moving part(s) that are infrequently used rapidly switching through their range of movement a dozen or so times can often clear and loosen them up enough for a temporary sort of the issue at least. Good luck.

If you like it and you know it's had a good life, then why not? It's definitely not expensive. It takes the doubt out of wondering what sort of a life it's had before you got it. When I went back self-employed, I bought a van off the fleet of the company I'd been working for because I knew it'd been looked after and it's been great

Hi there, I have the same hardware and software specifications, and also don't have Laura assistant, I think the assistant is only on 13' screen, you have to check it.

28 october ordered 5 december forecasted production 3 december actual production started 19 december forecasted arrival in The Netherlands 26 december forecasted pick up at dealer

That would be a bargain for a 4 and 1/2 year old car, rather than paying a small fortune for a new / newer one. And the best thing is you already know its history and you like it. If looked after it will serve - and last- well.

If changing oil in a DQ200 DSG then 'Simply clever' to change both oils. Maybe around £200 done at an Automatic Specialist, or nearer £300 at a main dealership. But first best to have the engine running efficiently. The spark plug schedule is 40,000 miles / 4 years.

You're right is a dq200 i've mistaken the service intervals with the dq250, still once in a life oil change is not bad is 1,9L of oil nothing too expensive

P.S. if you check the spark plugs, keep in mind that they're long-life plugs good for about 35k miles, also is not expensive look to replace the coil pack; go for quality parts like NGK is a 5 minute job. Mine, after 11 years of life was misfiring randomly under load (acceleration) (with new spark plugs) without popping lights on the dash.

Yes the 1.2 TSI 86 bhp or the 105 bhp (same engine just different tune) come also with manual (on the fabia is a very funny engine even more if you tune it to 130bhp). Look also for fuel service history and very importantly, the dsg gearbox needs to be serviced every 40k miles. If you need anything, feel free to ask, i know this engine very well.

Welcome. So a 105 ps 1.2 TSI DSG. Maybe try the shifter back to S as you come up to roundabouts and see if it revving higher before changing up as you move off helps things. Is the servicing up to date, when were the spark plugs changed and the airfilter looked at or changed?

I understand why you don’t want full wheel covers, but, typically black steel wheels have only been given a quick thin cover of paint and will start to look nasty very quickly in winter - if they had been stripped back and repainted “properly” they might survive better. I just bought a used set that didn’t look too bad for my wife’s 2002 VW Polo, actually bought a set of used Golf ones and cut off the “inner” locking elements leaving just the bits out at the rim to keep them on, that worked for the remaining 8 years that she had that car. Next time round with a new 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I just bought a set of slightly used 15” VW Polo alloys from eBay in Germany, 10 years on, they should get refurbished after this winter, but still looking almost okay.

Had the wheels refurb'd... and new centre caps and new tyres all round. Much much nicerer. Before and after

Absolute tosh. I am NOT an old and bold 'pilot, I just in the main, DON'T trust computerised systems. They have their uses, such as ABS, and possibly a few other 'driver aids, that actually do help. Most are for nuggets however, that clearly need to go back to a driving nursery school Oh yes, another example of a total waste of time and money, and for something else to go wrong....automatic parking, for idiots that shouldn't actually be on the road if they haven't got the skill to do it themselves. Yes, an expensive and totally unecesssary novelty item ...(to go wrong) ...., to make you passengers chuckle....I know, I've done just that once or twice, I admit it. You sound like the sort of person that advocates driverless computer loaded cars btw...DON'T get me started.

Oh, I forgot, after tis operation, you should adapt the throttle valve via basic settings again. Key ignition "ON" but do not start the engine (engine NOT running). Do NOT touch the accelerator at all when doing this basic setting. Choose module 01 Engine Basic settings From drop down menu, choose "throttle valve alignment" - Then GO! Wait for confirmation "Finished correctly". After that, click "Stop" and wait another 30sec until you end basic settings via "Done Go back". Same procedure via OBD 11 and VCDS. I guess you need similar coding tool.

On other posts on the same subject, people talk about cleaning the battery before putting in and checking voltage as well. I've had batteries from ebay that do work and some that don't. Try another battery.

So in November I was in a non-fault collision and my 17 plate mk3.5 vRS was written off as a result. I recently found a hyper green mk4 vRS TDI but it went before I could purchase it due to the distance from my house and work 😢 I really like the colour so begs the question, as most of the hyper green cars are TSI do I make the switch to petrol or continue the hunt for a hyper green TDI? My journey is mainly motorway and a normal round trip is 40 miles which is why I have always chose diesel! What are people’s thoughts? I appreciate this will have been asked and answered before.

Had a look into the firmware of the pre-facelift, if somehow we could hack the checksum we can custom change the firmware and adapt new things