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A few from the weekend - they were sorting and pruning the vines. Even the mechanism to open the windows is ornate 👌 Spring has most definitely Sprung and I hadn't realised quite how beautiful Snowdrops are inside.....

So the 280 is now 10 years old with 56k and everything works at it should. It passed the MOT yesterday. Three advisories; 1. The rear pads are low. Knew they are. 2. Front tyres under inflated; they weren’t - 2.6 bar on both and 3. The Oil level is at minimum: err, nope. It’s just below maximum. Brilliant!

Your welcome.........glad my post is still fixing boot rattles.

Had exactly the same issue. THANKS to all those on here, especially the genius who provided the solution. Intermittent knocking noise has now disappeared. Was ready to trade in my 2023 plate!!

I have just coated mine in Fusso 12 month Wax, have to say it’s pretty good so far. I did the whole, wash, iron fall out, clay bar and polish before applying the wax. Doing detailing on the side it’s worth the money over a ceramic but time will tell

Agreed and not before time either, all to often basic safety is ignored in pursuit of fashion, saving money etc. The next thing that needs banning is touch screen controls. Sure they look lovely but they are extremely dangerous as you have to look at the screen to use them. PS, you also meant 2027 not 2017 😉

Hello everyone from Spain once again. As some of you know, my 2002 RS 1U2 has adjustable Koni Sport shock absorbers (yellow) and H&R springs, and now I have a question regarding Powerflex bushings for my RS 1U2. With each oil change or when I took it to the garage, I've been installing Powerflex polyurethane bushings to try and eliminate a metallic noise coming from the car, thinking it might be from the steering knuckle, stabilizer bars, control arms, etc. It turns out it's most likely the front strut mounts, so I've decided to order these bushings. There are two options: PFF85-431, which would lower the car by another 10mm, and PFF85-430, which would maintain the current ride height. Has anyone tried these bushings? Are there any photos to show the difference before and after installation? I'd also like to know (since I have no idea about this) how many pins the xenon headlight has and how many the halogen headlight with electric adjustment has, to see if, besides Stagemorion or Kufatec, there are other more affordable options for getting an adapter wiring harness. I also need to know the part number for the secondary air pump, as I don't want to disable it and it makes a lot of noise, especially when starting from cold. I'm leaving you some photos of my car so you can see the current height with the Seat Leon Cupra 1m silent blocks that I installed some time ago (although I've been looking at it and it's almost imperceptible, but it's lower on the left side than on the right, probably because it's in bad condition, hence why I want to change them).

Bosch Aero - the part numbers will be listed on a post in here somewhere. Just search for wiper blades.

I forgot to change mine until about 65,000 miles. When I took them out there was no visible electrode wear. Apart from a slight difference in colour they looked the same as the new ones. I could not detect any change in engine running with the new ones. They wear with mileage, not with calendar time. So changing at 5,000 would only be the thing to do for someone with money to chuck away. In which case feel free to chuck it my way!

You may be able to fix the secondary air pump noise by drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts. Pretty simple job. I've done it on both my Octavias. I think there's a step-by-step guide on the UK MKIVs site.

Some of them, maybe many are competent, then there are the likes of Halfords / Kwik-fit and a different matter all together....

I don't think they'll care either way, to be honest - they're competent enough to be able to deal with any sort of TPMS system they might encounter. If anything, I think they were probably more put-out when I got the 4-series - the previous 3-series did like to go through tyres! Its replacement was much better. The Superb is, as far as I know, still on its original tyres out of the factory. Currently at about 12k miles, and they've got a good bit of life left in them yet...

While your at it check the intercooler isnt full of oil or clogged. Alasdair

In the German Skoda Forum the Same, solution was take Out the fuse for 20-30 min

Seems it has changed then, when I go my car back in 2021 I could create an account in the car. Many updates since then! Anyway, pleased to hear you have it working now. Other than car data being visible in the App and using that app to check lock status etc, the biggest benefit that I can see is that with an account your settings are saved to your account. So, when you get your wife's account set up (yes, she needs a Skoda ID account too) and personalises the car, each user has their customised settings. Also, each key can be associated with a different user so when unlocking the car it has the appropriate settings. Those settings will include things like favourites and shortcuts set up in the Infotainment system (e.g. radio stations and, I think, temperature; if you have electrically adjustable seats then they can be associated with the key and user too). I've not tried this yet, but I believe that as the settings are sync'd back to the Škoda servers, should you get a second Škoda, or loan or hire car and login, then any compatible settings will be sync'd to that car too.

With all the rain we get now Rubber mats are really a must as long as you take them out ocassionaly to let the carpets air

Think the BCM and ECU are closely linked and can cause no start if its not connected properly. Alasdair

No idea if wire is related. I asked if its been cut and not broken in case its come off something but if it looks cut I doubt its come off anything. With the drivers footwell soaking wondering if its corosion/water in the BCM/connection. Think its in that area. Another point would be whats the condition of battery. Low volts can often cause problems.

My Karoq is visiting the dealer for servicing tomorrow, will be doing similar. Just don’t tell Mrs DSL.

m not exactly sure what you mean, but the TÜV document contains wheel dimensions and the approved tire variations suitable for those wheels and for a specific car model. This is used for registration in the vehicle’s technical certificate, at least here in Slovakia. After that, there are usually just some notes, such as that the car should not be excessively lowered, otherwise the tire could rub against the fender. Basically, if everything is in the original factory condition, there is no problem; if it is not, fender modifications or other adjustments are required, etc.

By Retrofit DAB, i Always use this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B09ZPHHBNL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My experience with the auto headlights was that it seems to rely too heavily on the quality of lights coming at you. Does the opposing vehicle have similarly blinding bright white LED headlights? If yes, the auto function will switch off your full beam straight away. Is the opposing vehicle a vintage motorcycle with a single headlamp putting out barely any more soft smudged yellow light than the average candle? The Skoda does not recognise it at all and does nothing.

Does the wire with the white tape look as though its been cut? Alasdair

The Bilt Hamber stuff is very good in general with their wheel cleaner being amazing for really dirty wheels

I am also noticing the (positive) effect of the ceramic coating, recommended! 😉

No water marks 🤞. I use non-acid wheel cleaner (Bilt-Hamber Auto Wheel cleaner). Good stuff.

If you haven’t got them clear powdered, be careful when you clean them not to use any aggressive wheel cleaners as you can get chemical burn (will look like what water splash marks). If you have, go nuts!

Mine badly need a clean inside & out. I powder coated my 19" Trinity alloys gloss black a couple of years ago. Matches the body colour, easier to clean & hides the brake dust better. They've lasted longer than the original finish which & had refurbished a couple of times over the years. I'm just terrified of kerbing them. That said powder coating worked out cheaper than refurbishing & diamond cutting the originals.

I'm running 19x8.5 ET35 with 245/40r19 tyres.

7 years later...

i would also like to mention that im just thinking of a stage 1. nothing too crazy

She's not into cars, like at all That's why i'll be taking care of it and why i'll have some fun changing some things here and there on it to make it feel even better for her

garage said it was a faulty ignition coil, replaced all three and its driving much better, think the car had been slowly losing power for a while, one of them had failed....think they said it was corroded........I'll report back in a couple of months

On the Fabia estate, that steel plate is usually a protective cover and can be removed when fitting a tow bar. Most aftermarket kits use the factory mounting points behind it. Skoda dealers can also supply OEM-style kits, but they are often more expensive than good quality third-party options.

Popped into Wemyss Bay Railway Station on the way back from Arran. The architecture is quite stunning. One of the concourse below. Another shot of the walkway to the Bute ferry. The shot is pretty much as is other a bit of processing to black and white. It looked a bit empty so I enhanced it using AI.🤣 Before AI and after, below

Bumped to an earlier crossing because of the weather so 3am start. No cafe open on the boat so no breakie! Weather remains wet and windy so not bothered yet with the camera. Took a few snaps with the camera phone instead and butchered the images in Lightroom.

Hello everyone, apologies if this question has already arisen but I'm new here and still finding my way around! Sometime before Christmas the total mileage showing on my Kamiq dashboard suddenly went from from about 86 thousand to zero. It is now up to about two thousand. The car has been plugged in at my local garage and they say that the correct mileage is still being logged in the background but nobody, including my local Skoda dealers, can get the right mileage back onto the dashboard. After messing around with it for about an hour the dealers say I will need a new "cluster" at the cost of just under £1000 plus about 5 hours labour. It seems that it will have to go to them as the keys will need to be reprogrammed at the same time. Has anybody else had this issue please? I want to get rid of this car but obvs can't until the mileage issue is sorted! Thanks for reading.

Hi, thanks for replying JB25. The mileage display is bottom left on my cluster and never actually disappeared, it just went to zero and is now climbing again as I drive around. It's now on about 2500 which is about 86k less than it should be! It's a puzzle to be sure 😜