Leaderboard

Test fit the spare on the rear today. Went on well and no issues. Went for a drive for a few miles and no tpms either. Was going to swap it to the front but it started to rain so that will have to wait for another day. At least I know for sure now if I do have an issue the spare can go on the rear.

So the bouncy ride is no more B6 shocks and all new associated parts fitted today, has changed the feel of the car and I am over the moon with it. Feels so much improved with a more planted ride and the floaty feel gone. No more bouncing after going over a speed bump, I ensured I went over loads on the way home

We visited Idle Valley nature reserve and whilst water levels are falling the River Idle remained in full flow VID-20260212-WA0013.mp4

I cannot imagine why a CEO of an Electricity supplier would want to help the Government encourage everyone to use electricity for everything.

Hi Tom On this generation of window motors there's a tendency for moisture to condense on the circuit board. It collects between a plastic connector body and the surface of the board, and tends to corrode copper tracks and sometimes form new and undesirable connections between pins of the connector and the ground plane. These may vary in their effects with temperature and humidity levels. This type of board damage can be repaired, but takes enough time to make it not really economically sensible whilst secondhand prices are relatively low. Try to match the second line of part number label, probably SK258... in your case, as well as the main VW group part number. Most ebay sellers overgeneralise applicability. Ones with VW240 or VW750 as that second line will be from Polos or T5s, and will send the glass in the opposite direction to switch commands if used in Skodas.

I used this tool to as an aid to decide which All Season Tyres to purchase for our Fabia and Karoq. It allows you to choose up to 4 tyres and compares each tyres ratings in specific areas, I wanted a an All Season that suited the weather in central and southern England where we no longer get snow but we do get a lot of rain. Compare Tyres Direct Tyre Comparisons - Tyre Reviews And Ratings For my Karoq I choose the Turanza 6 over the Cross Climate because the wet ratings were better and it was cheaper than the Continental and it had a better rim protection buffer. On the Fabia Continentals were fitted because it had the better wet weather ratings, the Turanza wasn't available for the Faboia size.

FIXED with a software download for free. Dubious at first but it works. Time now correct on unit as well as on matrix. This was on an Amundsen unit. After the download you need to extract the files as they are in a compressed file in a 7z file (I've not seen that before but you can get free software to unpack it - via Microsoft store for example). Then just copy to an SD card. This YouTube video shows you how to get the file and how to update the system (i had to stop the video and zoom in for the website etc a few times) but you can work out out... https://youtu.be/4I5Lnwc1w5c?si=H14Ku44ZUVuH7h6X

Rain held off for a bit so managed to check the front too. Clearance is tight around the calliper but clearance is clearance. Drives fine. Very happy with that. Also filled up the screenwash for what feels like the 1000th time in the four months I’ve owned it!

January 1, 1970 (01.01.1970) is the UNIX Epoch, serving as a foundational "date zero" for UNIX-based computers and many programming languages, and acts as a default date-value when systems encounter errors or missing date inputs. The phenomenon is not confined to vehicles, but can also occur on smartphones and computers that use a UNIX-type operating system. Where cars are concerned, it isn't just Skoda or VW Group vehicles that can be affected. This link is to a Vauxhall "Mokka" forum discussion https://www.mokkaownersclub.co.uk/threads/time-and-date-change-overnight.4692/ and includes this posting. Now having this problem too. Mokka X, 2016, elite. When the engine is turned on the clock has reset its self to 0.00, and the date to 01/01/1970. This has happened everyday now for the last week. Using the touchscreen I reset the date and time for each trip, all is well for the journey, until the engine is turned off then it goes back to 1970 and 0.00, is anyone able to help please? My 2024 Fabia has an Amundsen infotainment unit, but (based on your photo) I think your car has a Bolero. When the sort of problem you have is discussed on-line, it's sometimes suggested that the car-owner sets the date and time manually (rather than choosing the GPS option) and that he/she ensures that a correct geographic region is selected. Conversely, it's sometimes suggested that GPS rather than setting the date/time manually is worth trying (!!!) or (as mentioned on the Vauxhall Mocca forum) that the car's battery be disconnected, left disconnected for a while and then reconnected, in the hope that this will 'reboot' the system and clear the problem. In your case you've said that the date-change only occurs "sometimes" when you start your car. As you are having other problems with your car's infotainment unit https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534312-infotainment-fabia-22-plate/ if you cannot cure the 01.01.1970 fault by playing around with your Fabia's time/date settings (or by 'rebooting' the system by disconnecting/reconnecting its battery) you should add this fault to the other problems you'll need to tell your Skoda dealer about.

Probably safe to assume that he does. You don't normally get that kind of job without one. Did you actually read what he said? The key point being that bills will be about 2/3 system costs and 1/3 wholesale prices. The grid upgrades are happening and will cost money one way or another that everyone will have to pay for. That is regardless of how the electricity is being generated, battery/pumped storage etc.

It's interesting to read this thread - I'm keeping out of commenting as some of the posts appear to demonstrate how much of an isolated bubble world some people live in that appears to be slightly disconnected from reality and full of unconscious and confirmation bias.

Car collected late afternoon and the drive home was Superb (see what I did there). Car feels totally transformed, with more planted stable ride and no bouncing after going over a speed bump with a more sporty ride every feels more taught but then everything should do. Garage doing the work said the B6’s piston are like double the size of the stock ones. Car seems to be a little higher but will take time to bed in

Greetings from Estonia. Bought this 2017 280HP L&K with 184K km and almost every option. I have no idea what this color is. According to Gemini it's Amethyst Purple Metallic, however I can't find any pictures from that year that would look similar to this. I really like it though and plan to polish it out some day.

Finally got a chance to get the car clean and take some photos. 2016 Moon White SE L Executive. 2.0TDi 190PS DSG - Now just tipped 125,000 miles.

Thanks for the heads up!

It's started appearing for me again over the last two days. Skoda support asked me to provide pictures with date/time stamps on them of when it prompts. So I've taken photos and sent them in the past 2 days... but not had any response. Might be worth everyone who gets this to e-mail them at [email protected] to raise awareness that it's a bigger issue affecting many people.

Hi owned my Skoda Octavia VRS m3.5 tsi Estate 2017 for a year and using the forum to find out how to update my map SD card, also used it when looking at buying a VRS. So thought it was about time I introduced myself. After owning Saab 93 manual turbo cars for the last 19 years I was looking for a replacement non saab. I settled on a manual petrol VRS estate. After looking for the right car for a while I posted a wanted post on a Facebook group and was offered this car as a private sale. It was in the spec and colour i was looking for. Stage one map 331hp dyno by Rtech Oil changed to liqui moly 5w 40 early last year Running on Michelin PS5s Panoramic sunroof, KESSY keyless system Smartlink activated for Android, Apple Carplay Alcantara and leather seats (electric front seats) Heated front seats Heated mirrors Heated windscreen Front & rear parking sensors and lane assist Reverse camera Black honeycomb grill & badges Scorpion cat back stainless exhaust Tyson turbo elbow RTS uprated clutch and flywheel and uprated dogbone New heat exchanger and silica bag removed. Since purchase I have removed Heko wind deflectors, tinted film from rear and side windows and VRS and Rtech badge from boot. Added space saver spare wheel and tool kit.

My SE L was the "special" Red 6 months old and 3,400 on the clock and immaculate. Had a dash cam fitted (hard-wired to ignition with no visible wiring) 4 hooks in back rather than 2, the mat in the boot, vario-flex seats, rear tablet holders, the door kick plates etc. heated seats. We weren't offered it first, but we were picky about the 2nd had cars they did show us. So it was almost a last resort, it may have been intended for one of the staff if not sold to us. IT saved us 30% on list and had a service etc before we got it. Also looking at the digital manual, a couple of updates had been done to it. As far as I was concerned, it is a new car that a main dealer had done the shake down, running in and servicing. To the OP I would say go and look at the Škoda website for 2nd hand cars https://www.skoda.co.uk/used-cars/karoq I assume you are looking at used, as the Bolero hasn't been on new Karoq AFAIK for several years. You have a better chance of finding what you are looking for.

@Graham Butcher Westminster is going to have 'Energy Security' for the UK or just England by the importation of Electricity from overseas and it coming in under the sea from Continental Europe as well as further afield. Also importing LNG. They will be prepared to get it from anyplace they can rather from the Nation in the North if they can. For Road / Transport Fuels and Petro Chemicals as long as China Petro are in partnership with Sir Jim Ratcliff / Ineos they will get liquid stock from them regardless of the Refineries in the UK closing. PS. it is not just about powering or heating homes. There is industry and commerce and obviously the 10 x plus or is it 100 times electricity needed for DATA CENTRES for AI.

If the meguirs one works as it says that might just do it. Thanks I tried wd40 as I was cleaning off some superglue residue elsewhere and wondered if it was the same thing here.

Apparently it would take around 8 to 12 years to build a powerline from Scotland to the south coast, and that would be running about 2 miles away from my front door if they could ever get the final plans approved. Which at the moment is embroiled in loads of red tape with councils and masses of residents all opposed to it and this has been going on for the last 3 years to my knowledge. Hinkley point C is not supposed to be online until well into the mid-2030s and even then will only generate enough power for 6 million homes 7% of UK power need. Building started last year on Sizewell C due on line mid 2030s to 2040 powering 6 million homes, 7% of UK power need. Bradwell B is still in the feaseablity stage, would take an estimated 12 years to build (always run into delays), so if construction starts this year, it would be late 2030s to early 2040s before coming online and power 4 million homes, 4.5% UK power demand. Wylfa power station, if construction starts this year would be broadly the same as the above Bradwell B online mid 2030s to early 2040s, powering 3.5 million homes, 3.5% UK power demand. So where is all this extra power coming from to power all the proposed electric cars, vans, HGVs and buses coming from in 2030, given the massive size of these HGV fleets and buses? Once again, the UK has some very grand ideas and very little forward planning on how to deliver the massive amounts of power of power that would be required to keep people and vital goods mobile then? The above power stations would possibly deliver some 19 million homes then, when we had 30.4 million homes in 2024. Wind and solar cannot make up the rest, as wind does not always blow and I frequently see wind farms where no blades are turning, and no solar at all during the night. Are we living in cloud cuckoo land or what? Hinkley Point C | EDF Building Sizewell C - Sizewell C Homepage - Bradwell B Project Site Wylfa nuclear power station - Wikipedia

Demonstrators tend to be 6 months old and more rather than less in spec. Mine was an SE L with a few nice bits thrown in.

@Joel_S. what Trim of Karoq was it you were looking at, and were there no others like a demonstrator to look at?

Just posting my solution if anybody else lands here with a similar problem. Connecting my phone to my 2019 Octavia just stopped working recently having been a bit flaky for a while, Android Auto would not connect. I assumed like the OP that it was a physical connection issue in the car. I tried a bunch of good quality brand new data cables and still no luck, not even a flicker of recognition. I had up to same firmware in the infotainment system and up to date software in the phone I discovered that clearing the App cache in Android Auto in my phone (Google Pixel 8) was then enough to get the car to recognise the my phone again. By the time I discovered the clearing the app cache I had already forgotten the car from Android Auto and forgotten the phone from the infotainment system and needed to go through a clean phone/car set up, which may be for the best anyway. Hopefully this will save some people some time and money.

Went with the 115. It drove better than the 95 and thought it was the better car, mechanically at least I'd also add that, bizarrely, the 115 actually proved cheaper to insure than the 95 despite the slightly higher power output. Perhaps the fact that it's also a year older than the 95 we were looking at accounts for that but still. Not complaining!

Never mind this forum, heic files are not widely supported anywhere (not natively on Win11). Even where they are "supported" the support for differing versions is patchy. Several camera makers interpreted the specifications differently and added their own extensions. It is going to be a while before the mess is sorted out and things properly standardized. There won't be much support in forums and other places until this happens. By that time there is likely to be a new standard people work to. So the rule of thumb is don't post heic files.

Looks good. I found with mine i got a bit of whitening of the gloss black around the gaiter from the superglue fumes. I think I was a bit impatient putting it all back together! WD40 on a cotton bud cleans it off though so all good now.

@DaveLees Apple's HEIC image format isn't supported on this forum.

60 pence a kWh. 10 kWh @ 60 pence a kWh £6.00. Getting 4 miles a kWh is 40 miles for £6. I am getting 3.1 miles a kWh just now and over the past 2 months. That is 31 miles for £6 if i can get 60 pence kWh rapid charging. I can very seldom get that without it being @ a Tesla Super Charger. I can sometimes not get as much as 20 kW charging for a higher tariff than that, or 7 kW AC charging. My home tariff at 6.9 pence a kWh for 7 hours ends in July and likely i will be having to go to only 6 hours and at 7.5 pence or more a kWh. If the Electricity for Public Charging or even home charging is less next February than this then that will be just fandabbydozzy. But still not cheaper than if i was running an ICE vehicle the same size and power & doing some home charging but more public charging since when away from home i can not Home Charge.

You should be able to check the current struts for a part number the should be very easy to find. Should be 5E5 827 550 with a letter after the 550 most likely a Q. Best advice is go to Skoda-Parts.com, sign up for a free account then enter your VIN into the garage section and then search for Gas Strut, all parts that do not fit your car will be greyed out. Once you have the part number try get some Stabilus struts, recently replaced my OEM ones with these and they've been such an improvement.

Seems to have installed as expected for me As expected, it reports as 450 and 2026/2027.

I'm assuming ur asking the part number for the RPM Performance Anti-drone resonator delete pipe? If so, it's RPM-SKODA-VRSADRD

Did you not see this? https://www.cityam.com/british-gas-electricity-bills-higher-than-ukraine-war-2030/

Don't discount the fact disconnecting the cooler last time stopped coolant loss. Id see that as pretty good evidence the cooler is the problem. Maybe new cooler is no good/poorly installed

If you can’t hone charge that’s a problem yes. Even at 50p/kWh (Tesla, subscription DC or 22kW AC rates) it’s about the same as petrol/diesel. (40p ionity subscription rates would be £34) Depreciation, 50% after 3 years is about standard, so I don’t think it’s that bad as ICE cars are there or there about too (typically a little better I admit). I think people need to get over it and just accept people will make their choices. I would never buy an automatic ICE car after driving an EV. I would however buy a manual, fun car not because it’s fast, but as one where you’re more engaged with the drive. It wouldn’t be a daily driver though. I have far bigger issues with the 2L or 3L SUV and trucks that weight 2.5-3 tonne and have the bonnet at head/ribs height.

its called axle tramp. i had that before with my 220 being a FWD. i fixed it by fitting a 034 motorsport dogbone mount lower insert. i also did a code change called "Torque Steer Control (TCS)", specific to FWD cars. no issues now putting 350bhp and 500Nm+ (stage 2) power down on the road. good tyres help though. i'm running Continental MaxContact7 now.

Mine was there 5 days (including the weekend) but everything is working properly, now. You have to escalate that issue to skoda center in your country, in my humble opinion

Isent you link to download firmware RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5 Try it, if it fails during installation then pls post error picture (looks that you might have SSD faulty).

Yes, I would have thought that would be a given anyway as they are going to be so much more expensive to buy in the first instance and I'd expect the insurance costs are going to be sky high until the system has demonstrated that it is going to be more reliable and far safer than a human driver.

Thanks nta16

When I bought "New" cars I had to wait for them to be built. I never bought one from a storage yard. All those "In Stock" should have a discount.

Picked up the car after getting all four wheels refurbished. After 10 years the phoenix anthracite alloys were showing the usual diamond cut issues, particularly around the hubs so I had them powder coated in silver instead. Ignore the wheel caps - I'm swapping those for new ones tomorrow.

Well I took your advice and read all the t's and c's, including exclusions across the different products and decided they were practically worthless so cancelled them. The way they were sold (complete peace of mind, simply call a number and everything will be taken care of etc) compared to how they would actually work in practice (having to pay out for any damage in the first place to then reclaim the cost later in some cases and even then, the full cost may not necessarily be re-imbursed) were two different things. I also wanted my child to have some responsibility at least for taking care of the car so there was that added consideration.

Given all the BS I was fed by Skoda when I bought mine & the PDI wasn't shown, I have zero confidence in its accuracy. I bought a generic service log book from Ebay & will get that stamped. But then I'm unlikely to use a stealer for any servicing anyway.

Clean MOT with a grand total of 3103 miles since last test 😬

Thought I had posted here but guess not, so here is my Candy White 220ps on factory Trinity 19’s, Se L Executive with the (take off the fun stuff) Business pack

That looks very like exhaust is getting into coolant somewhere I am afraid. Could be egr cooler or head gasket. You could see if you could get a leak down test done. As there is CO2 in system I doubt its the waterpump drawing air in.

Yes this is what I would do. Other than if emergency situation at the side of a motorway etc. Plan is to fit it to rear and test drive. Then do the same to front. Just to be sure of no major mechanical clashes in case it’s needed in emergency.

After purchasing my Skoda Octavia VRS WRC No. 100/100 I found that information on them in general is quite hard to find. Briskoda does have the most information I have found, but it has been spread over several pages an there is no real single page to compile these, so I am trying to get it all here on one page...as well as try and find answers to questions I have too. In order to complete this labour of love, I may have used certain cars numbers as examples. If you own these cars, and take objection to with me mentioning your number...please let me or a mod know and I will have the text edited. Hopefully you will see what I am trying to do here and help me out! So...what we do know; The WRC Skoda was released to the public in 2002, to celebrate 100 years of Skoda in motorsport. Only 100 were sold, of which 75 were LHD and 25 were RHD which were released to the UK at an original selling price of around £20700 (approximately £5000 more than a standard car) although many were sold at a lower discounted price as the asking price was considered too steep by some. It has been referred to as "Skoda Octavia VRS WRC", "Skoda Octavia Rally" and the "Skoda Octavia VRS Limited Edition". As per the normal VRS, it is also officially known as a "RS" outside of the UK, due to Ford having the "RS" name rights in the UK. At the time of writing, Briskodas WRC registry has been able to locate 30 of the 100 prodcued, of which 22 are RHD, leaving 3 RHD unaccounted for. Out of the 25 issued to the UK, number 89 was stolen and burnt out, and number 66 lives in Spain. This leaves a maximum of 23 *driving* cars in the UK, 20 of which are known. Number 1 resides in Germany, number 100 in the UK. This actually makes it one of the rarest VAG production cars available to the general public, especially when compared to such limited edtions as the 2002 Golf IV Anniversary which was limited to 1800 examples purely for the UK market. The latest car to be found is number 72, which resides in Portsmouth, UK. The 25 cars issued to the UK were registered on 02/52/03 plates, and the date of registry did not reflect the specific cars build number, for example although mine was the last made number 100, it was registered on a "52" plate, whereas number 12 is on a "03" plate. The bulid numbers and country of issue appear to be random, for example the UK did not recieve a batch of 25 ranging from 75 to 100, instead the UK plays host to 25 cars ranging from number 12 to 100. 12 being the lowest number found in the UK so far. The cars were standard in every respect except the following features which were above and beyond a standard production Octavia VRS of that time; - WRC replica graphics celebrating 100 years of motorsport. - Exterior paint in "Candy White". - Build number badge on dashboard, located above central air vents. Format: ***/***. - Xenon Headlights with washers. - Front Side Seat Airbags. - ESP. - VRS front door kickplates. - Rear Mudflaps. - "B Pillar covers in black (included in exterior graphics, but actually a seperate OEM part). - Heated Front Seats. - Side rubbing strips deleted. - White 17" Spyder alloys. - CD player and 6 CD Changer. - Cargo net. At the time of its build, the WRC had many options, such as Xenons and ESP that were not available to be specified on a Standard Octavia VRS, although that soon changed and those items just became a regular option on later Ocativa VRS's (Late 03 onward). The promotional car, built prior to the car being released to the general public had bigger brakes, silver 17" spyder alloys, grey headling, no rear wash wipe, rear parking sensors and a sunroof. Many of the cars no longer have their exterior graphics, now being just plain white, number 100 is an example of this, whereas number 84 still has its full graphics. Dealers sometimes removed the graphics in order to make selling them easier as they were deemed to be a bit too much for some buyers, as happened to number 51. The usual documentation (handbook) supplied with the car, and the V5 make no reference to the vehicle being a WRC or Limited edition. Some of the cars have been modified tastefully, number 73 now sports 19" white alloys and a replica WRC rear spoiler. There were minor differences between the models, depending on market or build date etc, for example number 73 has Grey headlining, whereas number 100 had black headlining. It has been reported that some were made without a rear wash wipe, and others apparently came with black carpet or alarms with internal sensors although I have yet to find an exact car number with these variants. It is common to find WRC's with dealer fit front arm rests. The car has been rumoured to "Handle" differently, but those who have checked the part numbers for suspension etc, have found them to be identical to the Standard VRS. The WRC is commonly confused with a Police Spec VRS, however the exterior "Candy White" paint is all they actually share. Problems specific to the WRC are few, it has been known for the build number badge to fall from the dash due to the glue giving up, and the white spyder wheels are very hard to keep clean, and original paint wheels are now looking a little worse for wear on some cars which is not bad considering it is a 7 year old car! Valuing the car today is hard, as no specific price guide exists due to its very limited production run, but looking at the ones that have been for sale recently, they tend to be advertised £1000 - £2000 more than a Octavia VRS of similar age/mileage. The Skoda Octavia WRC is a modern classic, and future collectors car considering it was a rare version of the car that put Skoda back on the map in the public sector, the Skoda Octavia VRS Mk1. Thats about everything I can think of at the moment, hopefully this article will help people who desire to know more about this very special car. I am looking for any original promotional material for this car, in particular any press material or original spec sheet. Does anyone have a hard copy they could scan in, or alternatively a link to online documents? Does anyone know how you originally placed an order for these cars? Could you order one, or were they sent to dealers to sell from the forecourt? If anyone can see any errors, or has something to add, please do so....although I am trying to keep this article as factual as possible so please bear this in mind when posting. Mods:If this article could be made into a sticky, I would really appriciate it as I think it would help alot of people. I have not added this information to the registry so as not to hi-jack. Regards, Mike.

So apparently this wrc spoiler i can use for the roads so how can i put this. "apparently there is a tuv certificate so i can register it to my car if it makes sense.) Then again. I came across some videos and i saw some spoilers being flush or just glued on? Now my question is. Are these 2 spoilers diffrent from each other? If so. Would it be better for me to go with TIPE A one or TIPE B one? Unless i suck at doing research and they are the same thing. Thanks in advance.