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No nothing unusual. We'll get it check asap. Thank you.

Some people use their cars lots and do many miles and are not going to do Oil & filter services several times a year and need not do. Fuel and Oil with detergents and runs long enough to heat oil, components and not have condensation in the engine. Short trips,.cold start short trips is when Fixed Servicing regimes of Oil & Filter changes are recommended, but in the UK that might still be annual and not done 6 monthly.

^^^ Not necessary to physically change for different circumference tyres, an BEV can just have the Software change as done with e-bikes to change the circumference. Change the assistance and speed that can be achieved while pedalling. I know someone that has spent years Clocking cars including Taxi / Private hire cars and fleet cars. He also increases the power available with BEV,s, increases the Speed Limiters etc, even makes them invisible to Over the Air updates or TRACKING.

Is that Yaris Hybrid a PHEV or just an HEV? If a PHEV was it being plugged in? And when a PHEV is plugged in, will that also charge the 12V battery (generic question I now, but is there a generic answer?)? My soon-to-be brother-in-law has a Yaris Cross hybrid (not a PHEV) which needs to have the 12V battery charged regularly as the 12V is only charged when the petrol engine runs, and ontheir mostly short urban drives around Plymouth the engine doesn't run much. In their usage pattern it seems to me that a PHEV would be preferable to an HEV?

Other car manufacturers made MPI in 2023, some may be better than VW cars in many ways and not so good as VW cars in some ways. Widening the choice will widen the opportunities. No car will do well with too many short journeys but they will survive especially with timely and proper servicing and maintenance, how long and how well they survive engine wise will vary but it depends on how long and how much you want to put up with each car. Direct injection, turbo, engines with petrol filters (GPF) wouldn't be first choices for lots of very short journey use and an engine manufacturer with lots of experience and history of making smaller and 3-cylinder engines than VW may be preferred, though the VW 3-cylinder may prove to be fine/OK given time. It depends on how often you go on longer trips if not much then it might well be better to have an electric for usual use and for the occasional longer trip just hire/rent a bigger vehicle.

Skoda's website has a general recalls campaigns page (https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns), a specific page to the Takata airbags fiascos, a specific page about diesel engines, and then a page for (apparently) any other type of recall campaign (https://recall.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com, or, seemingly specific to the Spanish market where I live, https://recall.skoda-auto.com/572/es-es). Entering my Spanish market vehicle's ID, the 004/en page says "Sorry, this service is temporarily unavailable. Please try again later." (this has been consistent for days), the the Spanish page (which I only found just now) says "Please contact your authorized service partner." So, what's the point of having these pages? Is there another recalls campaigns search page that actually does something? Or, as the Spanish page suggests (and I have not found super helpful here in Spain), I have to try to get a Skoda dealership to actually care about a car sold five years ago and really do a lookup? (My experience with Skoda workshops has been .. not great). thanks,

The current version will do that. A USB stick is probably better as not sure you could get the whole thing on a CD. Most versions of Linux can be run from a USB stick to try them on your PC. https://linuxmint.com

Hi all! Came here looking for answers and discovered a buzzing community! I’m MrBungleBear, but usually get called BB or MrBB online. My wife calls me Geoff… Had quite a few Skodas - Superb in 2002 (only brand new car I’ve ever bought - first son warranted quality - twins next saw me part with it for a Shogun LWB! 3 car seats across). Then went with an Octavia, a Kodiaq and now in an Enyaq iv80, which I love but wish it was more Kodiaq size and feel). Wife had a Fabia for quite a while. That’s me! BB

UK Government Site Recalls. TSI 2.0 Engine Covers and then PHEV,s. & the SOS.

I had sent a question about both my own car's VIN and about the two failing web portals, to Skoda Spain. I got a phone call the same day, confirming that there are no recalls that affect my car, and agreeing to forward the comments about the two web portals to the "digital" department. No idea how fiable (Spanish: reliable) either of the claims are.........

4 years / 40,000 miles is the recommendation, guidelines, suggested schedule given by VW Group / Skoda. There is no stipulation / demand that the spark plugs are changed then. But if paying a service Plan or as was MAJOR SERVICE Costs then the Dealership should have been replacing them then. Servicing according to how VW / Skoda showed.

Ive owned 3 of these engines, never experienced any jerking sensation when 2 cylinders deactivate. Premium fuel has never made any noticeable running difference, either. I use e10 most of the time, this engine seems to run as happy on this as using the higher octane fuel. The only time I've ever noticed any hesitation, is occasionally from cold, which is a known issue for this engine, also when I had failing plugs. Ive also changed my oil on a regular basis, yearly at 9k, using 0w 20 oil. Changed my plugs every 2 years, not every 4 years as stipulated by skoda.

Sadly pretty pathetic stuff with Skoda. Even in the UK the Skoda Recall Action / Service Campaign page can miss actual SAFETY CRITICAL RECALLS that show in the UK.Gov DVLA Recalls site for checking by Reg Number or just vehicle and year. Skoda / VW Group Main Dealers in the UK can even sell Skoda Approved Used cars that have not had Service Campaign, Recall Actions / Workshop actions carried out, or without checking TPI,s. in the UK

True, unless you're buying a pure petrol or diesel secondhand cars, then buying a used car is now going to be a real minefield and is highly likely to be an expensive ownership proposition. The reason being that any of the alternatives, MHEV, PHEV or BEV there are so many factors that can and will come into play. A BEV, you can get a SOH report on the battery to take away some of the risk. But with hybrids, you get the added levels of complexity which could well cause buyers massive bills. Some petrol cars these days come with Active Cylinder Technology, shutting down some cylinders once at a crusing speed, which again adds further complexity.

What makes you believe that load of guff? Most ICE drivers are well aware of what their MPG is and you don't have to be a rocket scientist to quickly calculate how many gallons are required to get you back home and possibly to another filling station where much cheapness can be enjoyed on the fuel, for instance, there is a Shell garage near me that has diesel @ £1.69 a litre and there is a BP garage where I can get diesel @ £1.33 a litre. Now my car is currently doing with a mix of urban and town driving roughly 45mpg so that 31 miles that Evolution13 speaks of only costs me £4.13.

It is quite possibly the Alarm Siren Battery needing replaced @ 10 years old. (It is actually an @5 years replacement item back when there were Service Books, pre 2012) So complete unit, or the battery if you can DIY.

So after leaving it parked up for 12 hours. I tested the battery with my multimeter and it read just over 12v. On crank it dropped to 10v for a split second but then above 12 so the battery seems to be fine. The battery was replaced by the previous seller, so it’s only a few months old. It’s from euro car parts.

You have a TDI so not as likely to go into LIMP MODE but it still can. Do not keep running too long or go far with the Engine / Exhaust Emissions light showing. Get any fault codes read if there are. ?? Has the car been sitting any length of time with engine running / idling? Anything different recently, different filling station / diesel used?

Renault chose a odd size for the R5 ie 195/55R18, a few main tyre companies do this size but not, it seems, many of the Korean tyre companies. The 60 aspect ratio much more brand options and it is a winter / all season option andcit would mostly correct the 3 % speedo over ready. Just like Italian bikes use to be with their Vaguelio speedos and 10 % overread ! I did hear TESLA were overreading distance by as much as 10%. Don't know but perhaps so the warranty ran out quicker, allegedly.

Soon ? Over 2 years time. My plan is to fit some really big tyres to slow the odometer building up the miles......

Yes is was 79p per kwh at both MFG Haverhill and Ionity at Cambridge services and I only charged put in about 18 and then 22 KWh respectively hence the £15 and £19 approximately so really only about a third of the battery added so it could be done quite quickly ie 20 minutes or so each time, enough to go to the loo and check emails etc. What ICE drivers don't appreciate , I expect, is that EV drivers can be hyper accurate on what they need to put in the car. Whilst ICE drivers generally put in a tankful, or maybe half a tank if at motorway service's high prices, EV drivers can, to be economical, just put in enough to get them home plus maybe a 20 mile buffer. Hence put in the bare minimum and do as much charging at home using the lecky that is about a tenth of the price. Increasingly I am stopping when I need a comfort break rather than the car absolutely need charging, especially now it is warmer and the Scenic is up to around 4 miles per KWh where it was closer to 3 KWh a week ago and for the 4 months before that. 8 months of warmer weather I expect and lower running cost of all of our EVs due to this.

@Graham Butcher & buying a used PHEV is just too risky IMO as you have no idea if it was run mainly as an electrified car mainly driven on electric and the ICE seldom being fired up. Recently i read on this forum someone saying their mothers Yaris Hybrid kept getting a flat battery. That is not uncommon for people who think a mile or 2 to the shops each day can be done on electric only and no engine firing up to charge up the batteries. Since i can register any car or van as Disabled class and am exempt from VED i am still looking and considering what 2 get as my next vehicle for longer trips. I think it will be a diesel i go for and not a Petrol MHEV. Certainly not a BEV or PHEV.

you have to put some OBD2 scanner in port and scan for errors. if you dont have any, go to garage. it can be anything.

And to just add further insult to injury, if you was in a petrol, you are already paying a massive amount in fuel duty so inadvertently assisting the government to pay its way. When in the BEV you will soon be charged an extra 3P a mile so that brings your cost for 31 miles to around £6.63 and if in a PHEV to around £7 for fuel. So that makes a BEV suddenly one to avoid unless you can either do all or most of your charging at home – much cheapness there, then – or you don't pay for your charging, as it's a company car.

I managed to get on Erwin by ticking the box to say I’m a garage. No other checks were done. Downloaded all my Manuals and options list etc.

Me too; it wasn’t! I knew the unit was OK as it completed the arc when I turned the wiper off and on again, so a dirty contact causing it to loose power was my thought. Good idea on removing the arm and leaving it on. 👏🏻

I bought a blasting pistol with a long nozzle on Amazon to connect on my compressor, and this adapter from Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1782304951/intake-cleaner-adapter-for-vw-audi-tfsi?ref=yr_purchases Pistol : https://amzn.eu/d/006Z1E1m My vacuum cleaner fits it perfectly. Bought the walnut media separately, which was the most expensive

My last work journey and undertaken in my smaller batteried Renault Scenic ie 60/65 KWh, and it has been the first EV journey experience that I knew there were huge EV charging stations along the way so my charging worries very tiny. Also the costs were quite small and the charging good. 400 mile journey, one charge of £19 on day one and a second one if £15 on day 2. Shout out to MFG and their excellent sites and the now awesome Cambridge Services.

I wouldn’t say it’s draconian at all. I’d argue it’s a pretty kind and understanding response to a clear lack of common sense. I’m sure many people on here haven’t read the T&Cs, but they’ve got on just fine over the years… As has been suggested, if you need to get your count up, at least make an effort to use words. I’ve only been on the forum under this account for a year or so. Everyone is very friendly and the site is well run, maintained and populated. As with all communities though, if someone comes in and starts being silly, the response will be appropriate. If you were sat in a group and needed to make five contributions in order to ask a question, if you put your hand up and down five times in a row, surely the response would be similar to this? The twenty post count is to protect members from spam, and keep the community thriving. Think more of twenty contributions, rather than comments. Also, the member you tagged hasn’t been online since 2025.

IIRC the older Fabia Mk3 1.0 MPI had weaker manual gearboxes, not good for a car used on short trips as proportionately there are more gear changes so clutch and gearbox wear but a lot of that wear can also depend on the driver and how they operate the controls. Plenty of info on 1.0 TSI with DSG, some get used to the combination and some others don't.

On a 25 year old car it could be a good idea to change the gearbox oil to help a bit with shifting, replacing the gearbox oil with fresh new better quality gearbox oil after a thorough hot/warm drain of the old oil and whatever else out of the box. Don't follow some of these idiot guides available on the internet, always check and remove the filler/level plug before removing the drain plug as you don't want to find you can't get the filler plug out after you have drained all the oil out of the gearbox. Redline (MTL) if you can get USA stuff or any good quality synthetic 75W or 75w-80W or if it is hot in summer 75w-85 or 75w-90, all to GL-4.

Hi, Haven't had that issue on my Skoda but I've had rear wiper issues (and they're fairly generic components). Most likely answer would be water ingress causing rust (or dirt) screwing up the gears mechanism or motor itself. Either that or a broken tooth on the plastic gear in there. 'Exercising' the part a bit can help in the short-term if it's dirt/rust but long term it'll likely need replacing; the motor-gear unit is about €120 new (cheaper for a used one but I'd go with a new one in this case, since you don't know what a used one looks like on the inside; they may look good externally but be on their way to seizing up from rust). A budget option would be to take it apart - clean out the old grease and any dirt and rust, make sure the gears and electric contacts are working, put in fresh grease and put it back together. I've done this myself (again, not on this specific one though) and it wasn't terribly hard but IMO not really worth it unless you like tinkering - especially considering it won't even work if something is outright broken. In either case, replacing the unit isn't too hard as far as DIY jobs go - removing the wiper arm can be tricky if it's stuck (I saw threads here on people having issues there - using a bearing puller seems like the right way to go if it won't come loose) and remove the trim on the inside (which you can find videos of) and then unplug, unscrew it and then repeat the process in reverse. The kind of nice simple job that'd take half an hour if everything went smoothly and invariably takes the whole afternoon because there's always something stuck or you can't find a tool or..

Exactly the same fault that i am experiencing. will take the arm off and run it continuously for a long drive somewhere. i thought it was the motor loosing out to resistance in the wiping action against a drying screen as the rear window keeps itself pretty dry at motorway speeds.

Yes, I have. I had exactly the same issue, starting a few ago, except it managed to get 3/4 of the way through the arc. Bloody annoying. I fixed it by raising the blade, switched on the ignition and left it running for an hour whilst I washed the wheels. Yeah, I know, but they were filthy! I think the contacts in the motor had become contaminated/dirty given lack of use and running it for a decent period did the trick. Worth a try anyway.

What a shame you don't have any phone signal tomorrow

It might be worth checking/replacing relay for starter. Sorry not sure exactly which one but I believe its inside under dash somewhere or in engine bay fuse box. For some reason its difficult/impossibe to get a diagram of where and what each relay does. Someone on here will know the correct one and its location etc. Alasdair

Not sure if its possible but have you tried a live wire to starter solanoid direct from battery. Touch it to terminal that ignition feeds. If it turns over the fault may be ignition related. If it doesnt then its either a bad solanoid or earth. Alasdair

From 2018 petrol cars will have GPF,s. Not so kean on short trips. Just a mile or 2. Cold weather. But few reporting issues yet.

This morning, I finally stopped a vibration that in the cabin that has been irritating me for the past 6 months. It sounded to be above / behind the glove box, it occurred when the car was at 1100rpm. So at cruising RPM. Now I do have a USB cable and Camera cable ran for the past 2 years. I assumed this had moved. I've had the glove box out more times than I can count. Clothe taper every cable and plug. Cable ties where I could. And still it vibrated. In the end i narrowed it done to the passenger air vent. Where it connects to the duct behind. This duct was vibrating off the vent duct above. Packed in some foam between the 2 ducts and no more vibrations. What a journey!

Yes - the cabin is much smaller. Less leg room in the rear & the boot is probably smaller. The Fabia is no good for us with a family of 4. The Scala is well worth a test drive.

We can supply & fit a genuine electric folding towbar with a 2 year main dealer warranty and 13 pin electrics. The installation is recorded against the cars build data, it's the same towbar they install from the factory.

This didn't last last so bought one off Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CKQLT3PJ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2. It's still working and easy replacement.

BTW if you are going to get rubber mats in the back it is worth getting one of these covers for the tunnel in the back. Especially if you have [grand]children or old people in the back. Also, the proper Škoda mats fit exactly and have a raised lip round the edge that stops mud and liquid coming off the mat and onto the carpet. You don't want to find that after the winter you had a damp soggy mess under the mat for the last few weeks/months

Let me clarify. I know saying anything about the brand on a members forum is going to have certain members rushing out to protect it. So I better take the time... You call your car "relatively new", but it's nine years old! I am not saying my particular car has rolled off the production line but that the design and technology of the car is in the last 10 years - we are not dealing with Lucas stuff from the 70s. In terms of having inherent flaws baked in to "a service-free" item like the cam chain failing prematurely due to cost savings, that must have amounted to pennies, that is incredibly disappointing from a brand like Skoda and from a mother-ship like the Volkswagen Group. For it to be hidden both internally and a dealership level from owners previously is ridiculous even if the cost had been shared at 60/40 70/30 split to resolve. The games that Skoda played, from what I've read, at shifting costs for their mistakes / cost-savings to dealerships is appalling. The thought of a part like this failing in the fast lane of a motorway is ridiculous = this is an act of cost-saving beyond belief (that dies were used beyond tolerance). It's mispractice on a product which is far from cheap. Also it is quite obvious the brands under Volkswagen Group, Skoda in particular do share a lot of parts from their global parts bin. Therefore issues like the above and the speedo LEDs prematurely failing and continued to be used in other model platforms, thereafter, is inexcusable and should have been rectified. So, "relative" to what? To the cars I have owned over many years, most that have never been newer that 10 years when they have reached me. Currently we own cars which I would say do not have a reputation of reliability or friendly-ness to the bank balance. An old high mileage A4 (2006) and a second generation Smart Fortwo (2002). In the six odd years of ownership, of both, only repairs I can think of have been the belts for the Audi (done as it neared 100,000) everything else tyres, wipers, brakes and lightbulbs = 28,000 miles since I got it. Smart - clutch actuator (common), windscreen wiper linkage, tyres brakes and lightbulbs = around 20,000 on the Smart since we got that. Both had been dealer serviced previously and have been serviced by an indie Merc / Audi guy I've used for over 10 years on my cars after that. They start and stop and apart from leaving the lights on one time I've never needed a tow truck to visit either of them. Over that brands being French (Peugeot / Renault), british (Rover ...and MG), Hyundai and several early Volkswagen's. I think it's fair to say I can compare older old-old cars to what I consider a more recently designed car, which should have less issues than those ones did (at their some times high miles). The Hyundai without a doubt being the best of the bunch and never asked for anything in over 40,000 miles I put on it, over the 20,000 it came with - nothing needed other than servicing and tyres / brakes - which really does say a lot. My points of comparison across these failures (on the Yeti) is that seem all to be due to bad design or penny pinching not just wear or tear and were known or demonstrated to be a failure point then hidden by the Volkswagen Group and at dealership level. LED backlight cluster failure - I've not had one tungsten bulb fail on any car I can think of. Choice of fix is remove the cluster and replace it for new (£££s) / drive hundreds of miles to a recommended repairer to fix or for I to remove the dash cluster, break it down and remove and replace the cobs - thankfully I will be able to do that. As I've read that's happened across the Octavia and Fabia ...and Golf range = it's not hard to see this is another product of penny pinching. One Way Oil Breather Air Valve - poor design, commonly known to fail in early polos(?) as it's unsupported = why was it carried over in the same design to the Yeti and other newer cars? Turbo actuator failure - One of the guys at the Skoda parts desk said it was a common problem and in some cases can stick and fracture the turbo casing = new complete turbo. My mechanic had never seen one go (electronically) like mine had and thankfully was only water ingress or just poor manufacture / early failure. I've also noticed mine is missing the protection across the HT leads, which Skoda knew failed prematurely due to heat and replaced with an item (with protection) that they said was to stop rodents from chewing through them! So they didn't have to admit for a recall. regardless of mileage (which you don't disclose). Don't disclose? - wow you make it sound like I'm hiding that on purpose. Miles was just over 55,000 when I collected - which I think you will agree for a nearly nine year old! car is not at all high. Considering it was run by the one family since new and serviced at a respected local independent garage which have now retired, apart from a bit of previous light parking damage on the passenger front corner, 4 matching tyres, clean interior - it had all the hall marks of a well looked after family car. In terms of the chain I was interested to see "toothed belt" ticked in 2012 in the logbook, wondering if it had been picked up and "repaired" in a recall, it's only in recent weeks have I heard it start to clatter and through these forums made aware of it. The Turbo actuator failing gave me an opportunity to ask my mechanic who confirmed it. Do you really expect nothing to go wrong with a car that, to my mind, is relatively old? No, of course not! Do I expect that the failures I am experiencing now which are problems that were known about (over this model and others) at the time of manufacture and in terms of the chain months after it rolled off of the production line and for it not to be handled by a recall during the warranty period - yea that's bad. It sullys any repute of the brand and would make me consider (if I had the money) to never buy new from them. To be honest - I'm not interested in going back and forth the good and bad of makes, brands, models. I could waste hours saying one thing and someone else thinking another - I just want to find what is the best steps to sort this car out now and I welcome advice on that subject and not anyone else jumping in on the subject feeling I've soiled the name of Skoda and that I'm bang out of order to yadda yadda a nine year old car. Cheers.