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Being a bit whimsical today, but on the anniversary of my Mk4 turning 3, I thought I'd comment on how pleasurable and faultless this car has been since the day I collected it 3 years ago. It has genuinely given me nothing to complain about at all. No faults, knocks, rattles, creaks, no performance or system issues. In fact the only minor thing I can think of was the mirror USB socket slipping back into the casing when connecting a dashcam, which I fixed easily. Overall, this car is a calm and relaxed place to be, very comfortable on long journeys and I just enjoy getting behind the wheel. The turbo TSI is smooth and responsive, pulls from the mid range to overtake as quickly as any of my dinosaur V8's from the old days. The 8 speed Aisin auto is perfectly mated, and I have to say much smoother than the DSG in my previous Golf. Given that forums like this are usually used to report or seek help with faults and other issues, maybe I've been lucky, but based on my own experience I feel the Mk4 deserves a positive review. My car gets looked after meticulously, and it seems to be doing the same for me. Looking forward to the next 3 yrs and beyond, I have no intention of swapping it despite being badgered by the dealer every 5 mins to trade in and update!

I had a Fiesta Mk3 which, after randomly spinning a 180 on a dual carriageway sliproad in dry conditions at no excessive speed I realised that I could change lanes with the throttle. Accelerate and the car would drift right, take my foot off the throttle a little and the car would drift left. Ended up being a diff bush in a lower arm. Can’t remember whether it was the middle bush or the rear one. Would have remembered if it was bottom ball joint so it wasn’t that one. Might be with a look jacking that front nearside up and seeing if there is excessive movement. More wear on the outside seems to suggests positive camber.

Thanks for the reply. I've read about it, but I didn't think about it that way, and I'd still be within the warranty period (the car is from 2016). I'm skeptical, but I'll call on Monday and let you know.

In principle that is correct. Alkaline batteries of the type being used tend to die after 5 years or so.

5Q0 121 407 AA - yes, change the coolant to G12Evo

Holy thread resurrection Batman! Been Googling about the silica bag header tank issues and this thread came up. I think our March 2019 Superb 272 has the twin-walled header tank. Is someone able to let me know part number or direct me to where I can get a replacement single-walled tank without the bag? And from reading I assume the coolant will need changing to G12 Evo from the G13 that's in it?

Just an update control arm abushings and right and left enigne mounts got replaced to non Chinese brand and the car feels like new...

Son uses a plug in blue tooth fm transmitter in his mk1 (halfords) as theres no connection socket. According to google Ai the socket in the glove box can be 3.5mm or mdi which I think you have. The 2010 Skoda Fabia (Mk2) often features a media input socket located inside the glove box, designed for connecting external audio devices. Key Details regarding the Media Socket: Location: The socket is typically found in the top-left or rear section of the glove compartment. Interface Type: It is often a 3.5mm AUX input or a specialized MDI (Media Device Interface) port. Functionality: If equipped with an MDI port, you can use a Skoda-compatible MDI lead (USB or Apple 30-pin) to control playback (track selection, folders) via the radio unit, such as the RCD 310 or RNS 310. Activation: To use it, you may need to press the "MEDIA" or "CD" button on the head unit to switch the source to AUX or MDI.

Didn't someone mention fifteen minute cities on here a couple of times? Scary stuff indeed... NSFW

Can’t see easily without removing the bracket. The car does have start/stop built in so i goes it will be an EFB or I’ll get an EFB to replace

From memory, there is a small spring clip inside the key which likes to bid for freedom. Open both your keys up and see if it's missing now on the broken one. U shaped and about 1cm x 0.8cm in plan view (looking down. As far as I know it's not available as a spare so you may have to buy a dead key and rob it of the spring.

No I wasn't sure what that meant either. 😄 Exclusive clubs like VCDS users don't want me as a member but as Groucho Marx said "I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member." 😁

It was; ignition on (in order to be able to scan), 5 amps flowing as shown in list.

So, Skoda Spain called me back, and confirmed that my car has no recalls. They also said that the Skoda brand websites are not only not under their control, they don't even have a way to talk to that part of Skoda to provide feedback about the websites. I sent email to the contact address on the malfunctioning webpages, and got an initial non-answer which just also told me to call a Skoda service partner. Pushing back on them about the websites, they replied that the sites cannot be relied on! I sent back to them "Then take down the worse-than-useless sites".... And I commented that, although Skoda makes some good cars, my customer service journey with the brand, from the very beginning, has been disappointing. sigh I hope when it's time to replace my Scout in a bunch more years, I can afford an Audi or at least a VW...

Useully under 80% charge the car will shut down the start stop I had the same problem new battery all is fine now. The AH is low is it an AGM

FYI - that white thing, VW AG 5QA915181C, is the battery management sensor that rules your life with and use of your vehicle. 🙃

Battery should have been 100% charged. Had a long (80mile) run the other day and it’s been on the charger since. Might just change the battery anyway. They are not too silly prices for the Subaru. The car is very low mileage for age (21k in 5yr) so may have had the battery discharged in the past

Ok I see. That’s what garages are for, I’ll help oil the wheels of commerce - he’s a good and trusted mechanic I’ve used many times before. Cheers

No it isn't, that's a part. It may be other fault(s) but often the first sign the 12v battery needs charging is when the stop/start doesn't operate when it should and needs charging up and often just driving the can may not be sufficient. Buying and using an appropriate battery charger maintainer (they can be inexpensive and do a great job) and using it preferably for preventative charging to 100% (car only does about 50%) will help vastly reduce the many issues of a 12v battery in a low state of charge and health that can cause the owner/driver a load of hassle and unnecessary expense. The battery with get better, more reliable service for longer and battery useful life can be extended by many years. Or you can pay a garage to do a quick higher rate recharge of the battery with their battery charger or possibly prematurely replace the battery at a high cost plus 'coding'.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/501898-rust-beneath-my-crankshaft-sensor-is-it-normal/ Speaking by my experience: when you mess with crank sensor the ECU holds is as a fault, then the car may not start properly of may turn off in the middle of the road. You need to reset the ECU and let it idle for a while before take it out in the road. Even in the original e.g. when you remove one contact it will hold it in the memory, here is a list of them but no matter what an ECU reset for me is a must. AIC 54974 BREMI 60589 BUGIAD BSP21755 HOFFER 7517513 JP GROUP 1193701000 JP GROUP A3336 LUCAS SEB1396 MEAT & DORIA 87513 METZGER 0902406 NGK 81214 SIDAT 83.432 VALEO 254126 VEMO 10-72-1033 For electrics i would trust the NGK, i had problem with the original Lambda sensor (NGK), installed a Bosch which didn't worked properly and after a lot of effort found an NGK from UK and problem solved.

Could this be covered by the 12 year corrosion warranty? The warranty covers rusting from the inside out' and it does appear to be rusting from inside the seal, not from the outside inwards. Might be worth asking your local dealer.

ICE cars leave the Factory on Variable Servicing so @ 24 months, 18,000-20,000 miles. But might get reset at the PDI to Fixed OIl Service regimes of 9,400 miles / 372 days.

Thanks for the thoughts and yes I think you were right. I wiggled the sensor and cleaned it yesterday and it's now all working. The brakes and handbrake are back to normal.

Check brake fluid level and maybe sticking handbrake switch/handbrake. probably worth getting it scanned to see if anything comes up. Think your correct it normally is for auto so not sure why on a manual unless its a cluster fault. Had dpf light on mine but no dpf on that engine plus a few others. removed cleaned and replaced cluster and cured it. either cluster had come loose or was making poor connection. Alasdair

Glad its still ok and hopefully a one of. Your lucky it stopped when it did. Good luck with MOT. With that amount of diesel in oil at least the engine will have been given a good flush out and be nice and clean. Alasdair

thamestrader - I've got a slow puncture at the moment in my MY2019 1.0 SETech Karoq. The alert first appeared with a ping when I was driving a few weeks ago and found the LH front tyre pressure was about 5lbs down. I wondered why the economy had worsened just a little. However subsequently, that main alert warning only appears when first starting the engine and then goes away. There is then a small amber reminder warning signal (shape of tyre cross section) on all the time when driving. That's until I (slightly over) pump up the tyre and reset the TPMS (dead easy menu, even for a non techie like me) and the main alert and amber reminder warning doesn't then reappear for another 10 days or so. However, must get that puncture sorted ASAP.

⭐️ Another little update. Taken for a test drive after the oil and filter was changed and all the pipes cleaned out! Well it seems perfect! 👌 🤞 Drives smooth and pulls like a train with absolutely no smoke! Im very happy and it’s now booked back in for another MOT next week!

Dealer checked on their system for any non-DVSA recalls.

My (Polo) battery is now 3 months into its 8th year (original). I noticed in the last few coldish days that if the ambient is < ~ 5C that the stop/start is inhibited and also, as per my DVM, charges continuously at 14.6/14.8V, once the temp rises above say 6C, then the charging returns to its normal 13.5ish, except on overrun where it (as normal), rises to 14.8V, and the stop/start returns to normal. I will be taking a set of VCDS battery condition readings very shortly and will post same.

There is often a date code stamped on the top of the battery negative terminal (format is WWYY) very possible that your battery is original, therefore around 7 years old. Rather than blindly replacing what is possibly a still serviceable battery, I'd suggest testing it for condition first.

That’s my original on a 2016 and the part I replaced it with

I understand all of that, but that does not diminish the reason behind my statement and the feeling that it is removing decades of freedom where we can all choose the type of car that best fits our individual needs. It has not been proved that ICE cars are the devil that that they are being made into. I mean is it not a fact that life expectancy today is considerably longer than it was 100 years ago? Check out this government site. ONS How has life expectancy changed over time? - Office for National Statistics This graph is lifted directly from the above site, so if the air quality and the pollution from ICE vehicles were actually as bad as we are being led to believe, then why is the graph not showing a downward trend instead of a continuing upward trend? We are being told that people are living longer and adding to the huge deficits in public finances because people living longer is placing increased burdens on the funds and the government are not able to cope with that.

That's shown as correct for your VIN, but superseded by WHT 003 864 C.

Thanks, I dropped the glovebox & was able to get the access I needed.

What is not being talked about is Breaks or Breaking.

Yeah, the actual charger block (or phone, but most likely the charger) would be the problem here. The car just outputs a dumb, constant 12v (fluctuates 11-14 depending on engine state/battery level ofc), it doesn't have any reference of what is actually plugged in.

The car is currently on a different plate. The chap who has it posts a lot on Instagram and although I'm not on there, my sister is. She sends me photos now and then to keep me in the loop. Elliott's been in touch a few times since I sold the car and it's being looked after. It's currently on the Octavia vRS MK1 Owners Club (#ovrsmk1oc) page on Facebook and is the car you first see. https://www.facebook.com/groups/mk1octaviavrsowners I'm still hoping to buy it back one day but that's probably a while off yet as I think Elliott isn't going to move it on anytime soon.

Currently on Sorn over winter, but will tax it for 1st April and get stuck back into it. Next job is to get the wiring done for some of the police equipment

Hi, and me, just installed the kit from aliexpress(38£), and no need the VCS, or coding, just activate from tester.wirking PERFECT! Skoda Superb iV, 2020,1.4L PHEV. In the pic camera is not installed yet, only to test the wiring.

I suspect that TPMS flags are not permanently logged as DTCs.

There is almost nothing and no extra cost to them really, Oil, Filter & Pollen Filter, the car should be getting inspected anyway. Then they pay Tax on Profits so the service cost is part of their costs and they do not put it through as 'cheap'. This older Green Chart is based on Fixed Servicing and not that accurate,.

Finally all back together with new discs and pads and all the correct handbrake cable clips. Tried bleeding the brakes, but just cant get a firm firm pedal. It goes straight to the floor once the cars started. Im sure I don't need to bleed the abs pump as I never let the system run dry. Im hoping I don't need to replace the master cylinder. I suspect the rounded brake pipe nut is letting in air. I run out of time to investigate. I'll worry about it when I'm back from my hols!

For some reason I assumed the new rear hubs came with stub axles, but they never. Luckily I hadn't binned the old axle, so I retrieved these, cleaned them up and fitted new sensors. Getting the old sensors out was a mission. In the end I had to burn the plastic casing and smash them out. This would gave been impossible to do on the car.

Start the car. press and hold the AC and rear defrost button for a few seconds till they all light up. Leave it like this for 2 minutes then restart the car. fault should now clear.

Healthy Life expectancy is down in Scotland & RoUK. That is for many more important than Life Expectancy. Lets see just how long life expectancy and actual average life of those turns out to be from born in the 1970,s. I would put money on them not living healthy or their lives being as long as women born WW2 time or just after the war. SEARCH. Healthy Life Expectancy 2026. Plenty articles published in the past weeks.

Am sure I read the 1st service is 30000 kms or 3 yrs.

I have 1.0 gasoline and sometimes at idle revs, I feel like an uneven vibration. Be assured, vibration at idle for this 1.0 is completely normal, every car is the same