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Sideskirts fitted over the weekend, took it out to some sunlight

Cleaned the drivers seat belt to try and remedy the slow reeling in that it suffers from. I used a strong bulldog clip to keep the seatbelt out. The Soapy water and two sponges did a good job judging by the colour of the rinse water! Left it laying out for a couple of hours to dry in the sun. It seems a bit better but not perfect.

The clima setting of automatic is very clever but, as you've seen, once the system believes everything is fine the air vent flow seems to be very minimal. I've found that moving the fan control off "auto" and selecting manual fan speed at 2 or three gets you a more consistent flow. This is also my solution when four up in colder conditions - the rear passenger windows do start to steam up with four people in the car. Certainly a clever system but not perfect for every situation.

Had to do this last summer. On the mk4 when you turn ignition off the main info screen gives you the option to turn off “interior monitoring” — that’s what needs to be turned off so that the vehicle doesn’t set off the alarm if the sea is a bit choppy. No need to turn anything else off. So it’s all in the main screen when you turn off the ignition.

The UK needed the National Grid upgrades a decade past. The UK needs to 'Take back control'. Have ENERGY SECURITY. Nationalise the NATIONAL GRID. Forget the Arms race & the spending to be able to fire missiles costing millions of quid or to get a train trip to be 20 minutes quicker (for some, very few. HS2) . As to the Navy, it looks like half the fleet are under maintenance and the rest going in for running repairs far too often, and still not enough humans to be operating what is working.

And some cars had Oil Pressure gauges. All that is being looked for here is a 'Light check' to show that the Warning symbol will show, assuming the sensors work. The Low Oil warning can be crap and oil down by 1/3 rd with some engines and low oil pressure shows before the Low Oil light shows. eg 1.4 TSI / TFSI Euro 5 Twin Chargers. 3.6 litre oil capacity.

A valid point. Even BL cars of the ‘70s had an amber oil pressure warning light which would come on with the ignition and go off when oil pressure had built up.

Welcome to the forum. A tip for refitting the glovebox - you can use a piece of duct tape to hold the damper arm in position and then peel it off once it’s in place.

If you have already cleaned the seat belt, I have noticed afterwards a light application of silicon spray makes the them belt "roll" smoother and faster. I usually pull all the belt out, spray with the can and at the same time pass a microfiber cloth to wipe any excess, thus my concept of "light" application 😁 But it works ....

It just suddenly failed. No prior warning, no burning smell nothing until it just went. Was in 6th gear on the motorway and lost power, in trying to get off the motorway the lower gears would not engage. Huge burning smell, obvious loss of powers and rev counter going wild.

But where should those oil icons appear? If this is what VAG call an advance, I cannot say I'm a fan - it seems nonsensical to me that systems like TPMS, EPC and Traction control go through a visible self check to confirm they are operational before start - while the oil monitoring system does not! How reliable is a critical engine system that never shows any indication during initial start-up checks!

I’m on 1941. Installed that version via USB with the intent to install the latest on top of that, but have stayed with 1941 since it actually works perfectly fine. For SW as old as 18xx I’ve heard the best/safest way is to go for 1941 for first step anyway. I would go for that if I were you and evaluate after that. And if someone have any info on differences for 1989 vs 1941 I would appreciate this. Maybe I should go for latest, but a bit worried to fix something that aint broken.

It maybe a bad connection or broken wire to bonnet switch or failed bonnet switch itself. I read on a vw forum that you can use vcds to reset it if bonnet switch wont. A bit above my comfort zone at moment but as follows from vw jetta You need to Recode cluster . address 17 07= fourth digit in the coding: 0 = vehicles with fixed service intervals without oil/temp. sender 1 = vehicles with flexible service intervals with oil/temp. sender 2 = vehicles with fixed service intervals with oil/temp. sender 3 = vehicles without service interval display (USA, Canada) So I assume you have to change 07 to one of the above Alasdair

^^^ England! Way behind the curve. Sufficient electricity generating capacity in Scotland now. Lots more coming on stream. Just not the National Grid up to it and not enough battery storage with pumped hydro, battery farms or hydrogen production. But the Nuclear power station in Scotland will be shutting down. Tories and Labour, Lib Dems and Reform UK are going on about the Small Modular Nuclear needed. That is going at a fast pace in England. NOT.

Just done a scan and got a code related to tcu P173400 - starter release from the selector lever sensor system From a google (but now can’t find the source) it said something. About shifting out of P too quickly before the starter had finished its full sequence. It cleared fine and has stayed gone.

TV presenters and News Paper reviewers on the Telly this morning kept speaking about Dish Washers & Washing Machines. On Radio 4, 5 & World Service they did talk of EV,s and Home Batteries. A Distillery in South Scotland, Annandale is running on Green Energy. Offpeak and a new Boiler System. Electricity is used to heat water and make steam and they store steam at a very high temperature using a 'heat battery' or 'Steam Bank' and then use that to run their boilers. Whisky production and bottling on site. The issue is the HIGH ELECTRICITY costs when not Offpeak. The Decarbonisation Project grant. £3.6 Million from UK Government. Our money...

Sorry, yes

You probably need to get your software updated.

Here is a quick write up on how to access and replace all 4 temp sensors on a octavia 2010 tdi estate 4x4. I live in Norway so this is for a car with wheel on the left side. But I guess it is much the same for you english as well. So, my fault is as follows, climatronic only gives hot air when knob is set to high. If set to 26, 25, 24 etc degrees, it immediately blows cold air. Both from upper and lower vents. And yes, flap motors are ok and calibrated and yes the aircon if filled and served and yes, the heater core is not the problem. Vcds/obd shows no fault codes at all. So I did a live scan to log the aircon measures. And there I saw the fron left and front right temp sensor read a temp about 78-84 degrees celsius. Np wonder the climatronic pushed cold air out... I replaced all 4 sensors when at it. Both the footwell ones and the front upper ones. How to acces: Well on left side, pry out the fuse cover on side, pry out the small storage compartment on driver side. Pry out the silver cover around the light switch and also the silver cover on the other side of the steering wheel. Now you will see all T20 torx screws you need to remove. You will now see the airduct for the floor. This is fastened with one t20 torx screw. Remove it and now remove the airduct itself. It is self explanatory this one. And you can now remove the connector from the sensor. Now twist the sensor counter clockwise and take out. That was the lower left temp sensor done. The lower right sensor access: Have to remove the glove compartment box. First remove the side cover for the dashboard (facing the door). Use a plastic prytool and just rip it straight off. Then remove all t20 torx screws holding the glove compartment box. There is one on the side, 3 on top (open the compartment box) and 2 on the bottom. When these are out, the whole box will be loose and can be removed. Disconnect the airbag "on-off switch" and also the connector for the light. If you have a hose supplying the box with cooled air, no need to remove this. Just lay the box down on the floor. No need to undo the lower airduct on this side to remove the lower temp sensor. Again, disconnect wire and turn sensor counter clockwise to loosen and remove. In pics this sensor is marked with red circle. Now just do the same also for the front right temp sensor. Marked in blue. So when this is done you have done 3 out of 4 tempsensors. Just one left and that is the front left sensor. This bugger is located behind the radio. Need to take radio out and this is done without special tools. Remove silver plastic cover around the radio and also the black remaining frame. Use a plastic prytool. Flat screwdriver will do, but be careful, easy to get scratches etc. Now you will have access to all 4 t25 torx screws. Remove these and just pull radio straight out. Remove the cables and radio can be placed wherever you like. And there you will see the temp sensor high up to the left. Use same procedure on this as well and voila, you have now replaced all 4 sensors likely causing issues like mine. Best of luck. The front temp sensor have oem nr 3D0 907 543A. The lower footwell sensors called G261 and G262 have oe nr 4B0 820 539. I replaced all 4 in under 1 hour. Sensors should no more than 40-50 GBP at dealership and maybe 15-20 GBP at autodoc (Vemo, Hella brand)

I'm using VCDS also so I'll try to get the sensors and replace them. Thanks for replying and for the original post!

No, I posted in the morning because I kinda lost almost all night (because having some issues with downloading and card formatting etc, not regarding the process itself), and I skipped explaining all the steps. I updated from 1803 to 1941 using the link you provided and afterwards I updated to 1989. So one intermediate update directly to 1941. Everything worked flawlessly, after the 1989 update I factory restored the system directly and reconfigured the primary user setup. Everything works well and it’s a huge step betweeen the initial software and this one.

Update on this, I got my local garage to do a renewal of brake fluid. This seems to have fixed my problem, no issue with the master cylinder. Just some air left that I couldn’t shift

I've lost count how any times I've posted that message in here. On a typical modern Skoda there can be over 30 different software controlled modules, all with their own software.

Skoda evidently uses the term "full LED" to indicate that light-units contain no traditional bulbs - hence current Fabia models have full-LED tail-lights as well as full-led headlights. https://www.skoda-auto.com/models/layers/layers/all-new-fabia-technology Skoda uses "BI-LED" to indicate that a headlight has a LED matrix and (as you've said) a UK-specification Fabia 130 has this type of headlight as standard, whereas it's an option on Monte-Carlo models. I know that my Fabia does not have the LED-matrix type of headlights, have established that the Corner Function that should involve the front fog-lights (that do work) is inoperative and concluded that this is not a 'fault', just that the Corner Function is disabled on my car. As I don't want an operative Corner Function, that's fine by me....

I for myself had the exact same problem as @audiexp, stuck at 1803 in a pre-owned Octavia iV. i managed to find V1941 in a well-known source. I took the risk and went from 1803 straight to 1941 and from there to 1985 - all went without a problem (car was plugged in during the update and i didn't lock it after initiating the update and exiting, for what it's worth). Now I am being offered OTA updates again and I expect seeing the latest one soon.

Thank you sincerely as I managed to update the unit very smoothly!

Thank you sincerely since I managed to update the unit smoothly to the latest version. 🙏🏻

Does it work from 1803 straight to 1989?

Hi normanb The "seal" you mention is not water tight or meant to be , if it was you wouldn't be able to open the window so yes water can & does enter the door. There are drain holes or rather oval holes in bottom of all doors, 2 on each IIRC. The problem is there's a rubber seal that butts up to the lip on the bottom of the door & partly blocks said drain, made worse if the door is not opened for a long time. Likely with a rear door as the rubber tends to stick itself to the door. If you put your finger between seal & door lip then slide from front edge to rear edge you will unstick it and feel the location of the drain holes. How do I know ?? .I recently had a 3 inch deep puddle in front passenger footwell with car pointing slightly down hill , on opening NSR door there was a slight trickle until I ran my finger between seal & door lip when water then poured out.

It's a common misconception that an infotainment update fixes all of the problems with your car when in fact it only updates the infotainment. Not entirely sure how many control modules there are in total, but each runs its own software. I used to believe updating the infotainment was a cure all going off what I'd read on this forum but it's not. For example I recently had an airbag issue and needed to update the airbag module software to clear it. If your air con issue was down to a software problem then you'd possibly need to look at the air con's control module, not the infotainment's.

Oil pressure warning as in red light? That, if genuinely triggered by low oil pressure, is an engine emergency. If I were you, getting the oil pressure, or pressure switch(es), checked would be extremely urgent.

That may just be an actual sensor issue. I doubt it’s the DPF not regenning causing it, because I get that sometimes with mine and you get plenty warnings via maxidot (about 10 ignition cycles) and then eml and a limp mode. Not an oil light. A flashing glow plug light combined with or without an eml that has a MAF error would point to an egr issue (I have a guide thread on how that progresses)

Good news with a little perhaps odd news, and a note for future. Unless the drive you took the car on was a very short one the stop/start should work when it's supposed to, there are many conditions where it doesn't operate and that is normal. Lets start with the easy stuff - check the new data you have entered on the scan tool is correct, no fat-finger or other mistakes make sure all electric items that can be turned off are turned off start the engine, briefly turn on the air-con, blower on full, headlights on, hazards on, turn steering wheel to full lock both ways then back to centre - then turn off all those you turned on that aren't required, go for a drive enough to get the engine warmed up. See if that sorts things and report back. Note. - Up to you what you do, but why were these on, all electric items that are not required should be turned off before turning the engine off. No electric items that are not required should be turned on until the engine is running. This not only saves the battery it also mean you can hear the car and engine bay for any strange noises (smells, vibrations) before you drive off and after you have finished your journey without distractions and noise pollution. If you don't already do so, best is to get in the car, turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine, and both whilst putting your seatbelt on check all the warning lights that should both briefly light up and go out as they should, and look, listen (feel, smell) for anything different, this only takes a number of seconds. Start the engine check all dials, gauges and warning lights on dash, and look, listen (feel, smell) for anything different this only takes seconds. Then you can fart about with TwatNav, entertainments and comforts as much as you like before prepare to drive off safely. HTH.

I've got a load of repair panels paid for which should hopefully ship on weds, should be enough to get an MOT on this rotten mess. Best bit, they CAN get a bed repair and brand new tailgate protector using https://matkoakubko.com/ which I will be doing as a celebration the same week that the truck gets an MOT. Is this the year it happens?! Frogparts so far seem INCREDIBLE.

UPDATE: So, we finally got the car back this morning. It went in over two weeks ago once we knew the hydraulic/ABS system had a fault. Garage contacted VW for the part only to be told that it is on back order with no idea when (or even if) it would be available. Garage then started to make further enquiries and found a small company that said they could actually repair the "ABS pump module" (as I now know it is called) and actually managed to do it! So part was returned, refitted with no callout for a programmer to recode a new one. Entire job originally expected to be between £2 and £2.5 ended up being £980. Including all the original testing and determining the fault. As far as I am concerned, that's a win. As someone said upthread, it's great to have a good local garage.

Michelin have RFID,s implanted into tyres at manufacture now for their sake in handling, stock, traceability for scrappage / recycling. There are TPMS,s now that can identify the tyres with the RFID.

The rear drains come down the C pillar, and exit the body behind the bumper at the rear corners of the car.. This is the righthand side (looking at the back of the car) I was able to use my nylon cable to push up into the drain pipework. I'm not sure if there should be a plastic panel in front of this area - but my car does'nt have one. If it should have one it might have been left off when the towbar was fitted. The left hand drain outlet is not visible, but its behind the plastic trim panel with the orange sticker. see next photo. This not very helpful photo was best I good do - the plastic trim panel can be partially released by removing the screw in the metal clip shown to the right of the thumb, its then possible to move the panel just enough to get a hand up into the cavity behind the panel and feel for the drain outlet - if you have previously poured water into the pan roof gutters it may feel wet or be released as a result of touching the outlet. If you have an assistant who can pour water into the gutter you should get a wet hand if its draining OK. I'm relying on keeping the 2 front and the right rear drains clear and hoping that the left one won't cause a problem. Along withe 'moisturising' the neoprene seal with the VW liquid to stop it drying out and shrinking. That will reduce the amount of water that can get past the seal. Keeping water out reduces the amount of dirt that can enter and be washed down the drains.

Yep, broken wire, have bypassed it to check, will tidy it all up tomorrow starts straight away.

those are the noses which have to be removed in order to be able to turn the plug