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I've managed to solve this. I spoke to a helpful DPF specialist who ran through what they would do in this situation. Run a cleaner through the DPF via the O2 sensor hole. Get the car up to temp Reinitialse the DPF with VCDS, effectively telling the car a new dpf was fitted Force a static regeneration keeping a close eye on the exhaust temperature and pressures, running with the bonnet open. As I'd already done step 1, they said as long as there isn't sloppy black gunk coming out the exhaust which would indicate a cracked DPF, I should be safe to proceed. EGT temperatures shouldn't get much above 650° C for a prolonged period and if they do to kill the regeneration process and let the car cool. The exhaust was clean so I followed the process. EGT got up to 648° and didn't climb any further. Process finished and no more limp mode.

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Anyone on here got some information about my SE, i noticed above the driver side headlight that there was a sticker previously there of the website just wondering if anyone can tell me anything about it, cars been great so far but needs a new camshaft so upgrading to the SDI

This is mainly for reference for people who might face these issues with their car. This is on a L&K 4x4 265: Problem 1: Multi Media screen not working and only coming on after a while This was mainly a problem with the cold (which we get alot of in the in winter in Finland). The screen wont turn on, the middle dial just has a circle and cant select anything as you can see below. After a while it would all turn on and then it would be fine but in -20 it could be 20 minutes before that and means you cant use anything and also no parking cameras. During the times the screen was not working the dashboard was also switching between Finnish and English constantly, which was really odd. So this was a major nuisance The dealer ship in total had the car 4 times before they were able to fix it (it seems like it works now but weather obviously is better) but it react instantly now like it did when i got the car. What they did is the following: 1st time: Full software update, seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 2nd time: Changed the center dial. seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 3rd time: Change the actual screen.seemed like it fixed it for them but obviously it was in a heated area so it worked. The next day it didnt work and i went back 4th time: This time it was properly cold and the mechanic saw the problem and videod it (i also provided videos). Send it to Skoda and they finally concluded it was the Multi Media Control unit that needed to replaced. It took 2 months for the part to arrive and then they needed 2 days to get it working properly. Problem 2: Sun roof not working. First issue was that the unit controlling the opening and closing of the sun roof and the shade cover didnt react. They replaced the whole unit which is located in the roof. It worked for a bit after that but then it stopped working again. It did react and you could hear the roof trying

Low battery charge can cause this. The headlights may seem bright enough and the engine starts easily but the battery can still be in a too low state of charge for the computer and this can cause all sorts of unexpected warning lights an messages, unseen error codes and on to issues. So fully (to 100%) recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the charger and instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Best is to use a low and slow charger maintainer, 2, 3, 4 or 5-amps and be patient as it may take many hours. If you can't fully recharge to 100% in one go then do it in two (or three) but get there. Then in future do occassional preventative charges to avoid this or worse in future. If you don't have your car's 'Owner's Manual' you can download one free from VWŠkoda's manual website. -https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models If this doesn't cure your warning lights then let us know. Good luck. Preventative charging (-4c winter night, I'm warm and cosy inside not farting about with cars outside, other than taking photo) -

Quick thoughts. Did you test the alternator? DId you clean the battery terminal clamps inside and out before fitting them to the new battery? Have you checked the battery post clamps are securely fitted to the battery posts? Did you check the main battery cable connections are clean, secure and protected both ends? Did you check the new battery voltage before you fitted it to your car? Did you fully charge (to 100%) the new battery before fitting it to the car? Is your OBDEleven Pro fully updated for its programs? Have you checked the coding with your OBDEleven Pro? Have you checked for error codes? The engine should start well with a new battery but will start even with an old battery that is in a low state of charge, do you think you might have some elctrical drain, have you left some car setting on which might drain the battery, far too much potential for this on some Superbs with all the extras, "aids", "assists", conveniences, etc., etc.. If you were accelorating why was the battery showing as discharging what electrical loads were on at the time? When did you get the 12.7v reading after stopping, was that very soon after or many hours later? Try fully recharging the battery (to 100%) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the charger and the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. This may take many hours from 11.4v. Then disconnect the stop/start battery monitoring whilst you investigate this. Have you tested the alternator? That's enough for now, no doubt others will have other and perhaps better ideas.

Successful update to 1760 Will trst if android auto still have problems

Hello my name is Sander and I'm from the south of th Netherlands. Six months ago I bought a Skoda Octavia from 2011, 1.2 TSI to replace my Volvo V70 from 2004. I'm here to browse around for tips and trics to solve some issues with my car.

Hi Folks, Rejoined, as a paying member this time! Sadly, I had to sell my Yeti 4X4 in 2013, but I have been waiting for a hybrid with a decent amount of electric range and have hankered over a Superb estate for a very long time! So the time eventually came, as I traded in my VW R-Line e-TSI Golf yesterday for a near fully loaded Superb iV after a decent test drive. Have an Electroverse card, joined Chargemap as we are off to France in June, and my sister, who has a Q4 e-Tron, is insisting I download the Tesla App to access the Supercharging network! Can't charge at home as we have a flat, but any tips on public charging will be very much appreciated, as well as for navigating the infotainment system. A

My previous car was a PHEV with about 55 miles pure battery range. We tended to do very short journeys in and out of town, with an occasional cross country trip of 250+ miles. Needing a big car, those sort of trips were ideal for a PHEV. Its kinda what they are designed for. I wouldn’t want the stress of long journeys with a full electric. My car before that was a 3 litre diesel XJ and those trips were killing it. I was draining the engine every 4 months as it filled up with unburnt diesel. That’s one set of circumstances where a Phev is ideal

Dear Pete , So kind of you for your time and advice . Stay blessed regards

Engine under tray part now confirmed correct with VIN. 6R0 825 237D

Found VIN in a message from you. Correct door lock module part number is 5N2 837 016C, for driver's door. Strangely, that seems to unavailable from Skoda as a spare part since before this car was built, with no supersession shown in partslink24. It just says: 5N2 837 016 C Door lock PR:L0R+4F1/ 4K3 £90.97 Dropped: Oct 1, 2012 (EKZ: F) Please contact your dealer for the parts interpretation. I don't understand that. Skoda-parts.com seems to list some alternative compatible part numbers at the top of this page: Door Lock - Front Right Škoda 5N2837016M Note that all of them have 2 as the third character, as I would expect for rhd car.

Need VIN to look up parts properly, I would expect right-hand drive (rhd) drivers' door locks to have 2 as the third character, I think. Probably 5N2 837 016C, but need VIN to be sure.

I have had that problem, but the current issue is there's no sound of the lock mechanism opening when you pull the handle. I've had a look inside the boot and there's what looks like a removable panel below the wiper motor bulge, but I can't see how it comes off. There's one screw for the rubber pull and I've undone that but nothing else seems to want to move.

..souds OK to me??....not sure the 1.4 engine had any specific timing chain issues unlike the 1.8 engine??

That's the whole point of the MQB platform. Unless it's a factory-installed sport brake system, the differences are minimal. Otherwise, compare the PR code. I can practically take apart brakes like that blindfolded by now 😅 I also recommend using a wheel hub grinder with your cordless drill, so that the hub gets clean too.

Oh me I better double check thanks

As some look enviously at the EV Salary sacrifice scheme the is a new scheme to even things up................

I think that it is a good idea to check the battery's capacity once a year so that you can track its "wear out" and so try to avoid ending up sticking with a battery that is well passed its useful lifetime. I've got a CTEK battery tester and so far I've believed the readings it gives me at service time, the replacing of the original EFB at the 10 years point was more down to me already having a "one size up" AGM waiting for its time in the car, than the original EFB battery reaching the "wear out" point in its life, although I had been given the "replace battery" for a few years before that, but auto stop/start, when left to do its thing, did still operate, and that original EFB never caused any known issues over its 10 years 56,000 miles of use in a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

@Jackos that was my thought and a pleasant one because according to the shop it fits. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/205447-felicia-brake-servo/ The parts code 6U0612107 for 1.3-1.6 Petrol applies to 1.9 Diesel too. ✌ SKODA FELICIA I (6U1) 1.3 1994-10 1998-03 1289 SKODA FELICIA I (6U1) 1.6 LX 1995-08 1998-03 1598 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.3 LX 1995-08 1998-03 1289 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.3 LXI 1995-08 1998-03 1289 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.6 GLX 1995-08 1998-03 1598 SKODA FELICIA I (6U1) 1.9 D 1995-10 1998-03 1896 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.9 D 1995-10 1998-03 1896 SKODA FELICIA I Pickup (6UF, 6U7) 1.6 1997-06 2002-04 1598 SKODA FELICIA I Pickup (6UF, 6U7) 1.9 D 1997-06 2002-04 1896 VW CADDY II Pickup (9U7) 1.6 1996-06 2000-12 1598 VW CADDY II Pickup (9U7) 1.9 D 1996-06 2000-12 1896 SKODA FELICIA I Pickup (6UF, 6U7) 1.3 1997-06 2002-04 1289 SKODA FELICIA II (6U1) 1.3 1998-01 2001-06 1289 SKODA FELICIA II (6U1) 1.6 1998-01 2001-06 1598 SKODA FELICIA II (6U1) 1.9 D 1998-01 2001-06 1896 SKODA FELICIA II Estate (6U5) 1.3 1998-01 2001-06 1289 SKODA FELICIA II Estate (6U5) 1.6 1998-01 2001-06 1598 SKODA FELICIA II Estate (6U5) 1.9 D 1998-01 2001-06 1896 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.3 1995-08 1998-03 1289 SKODA FELICIA I Pickup (6UF, 6U7) 1.3 1995-10 2002-04 1289 SKODA FELICIA I Estate (6U5) 1.6 1995-08 1998-03 1598 SKODA FELICIA I (6U1) 1.6 1995-08 1998-03 1598 SKODA FELICIA II Estate (6U5) 1.3 1996-08 2001-06 1289 SKODA FELICIA Cube Van (6U5) 1.9 D 1997-03 2001-12 1896 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358260988658

The flaps are opened/closed by other cog wheels that engage with the cog wheel on the motor. The "spindle" I'm referring to is just the axle of the cog wheel. It certainly doesn't operate the recirculation flaps. PS. I don't have climate control. The heating/aircon in my Fabia is manual.

Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts 2nd line down on that page, 6R0 825 237D is the only engine undercover I would expect to find on your car, I think, but message me the VIN if you wish me to check properly. Your service list contains a lot of items that should be deleted, complete waste of time and money, items 1, 2, 9, 10, 11, 13. Seriously; all of those are more likely to cause a problem if touched than to offer any benefit. A good mechanic should probably refuse to do most of these, knowing the waste of their time and your money. 9 and 11 might be worth doing in about 100k miles' time. Item 8 is also probably unnecessary but less likely to cause a problem, although a vacuum/pressure refill is recommended on the rather complex cooling system of these engines. Air pockets can remain and take time to work their way out otherwise, I understand. I don't have experience of using such equipment. Buy a genuine oil filter from Skoda, and make sure your mechanic doesn't leave behind the old seal when changing it; bad things happen to oil pressure and engines which suffer this accident.

Actually didn’t seem hot at all. The fan would run on for half a minute or so but it wasn’t burning anywhere in the engine bay. Not sure how to read that other than something is broken and I don’t want to blow the engine.

I got a chance to fit my DIY colour matched badges today. Look much better. Really pleased with the clean look now.

DSG service and brake fluid change carried out by the local VAG independent specialist. No obvious issues with DSG based on how the oil looks. Hopefully hasn’t suffered too much from missed services by previous owners. That’s now all the major mechanical servicing done so I’m happy I haven’t bought a complete lemon! Check out VW Audi Workshop if you’re in the area!

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

@schmooser there are three oil pressure switches on this engine: 04L919081, a green one rated 0.3-0.6 bar, 03N919081, a grey one rated 2.0-2.7 bar, and 04L919081B, a brown one rated 2.3-3.0 bar 1st and 3rd are as you thought in your opening post. I vaguely recall two of these being close to one another, and the third elsewhere, not as easily spotted.

Cannot edit second time now If anyone interested. Octavia's USB hub part numer is 657035736. In other VAG cars same hub is 5NA035736. The have slightly different case, hence other part number. In other cars this hub is interchangable with 5NA035700, which is same hub but supporting power delivery protocol (45W). For some models those 2 part number are shown for different trim levels. So from electrical side hub in O4 can be replaced with 5NA035700 with PD. Only question is if it's possible to make it fit physically. I guess i'll try... I know this topic is about rear ports, but sometimes ideas come when reading other topics BTW - rear ports are also available with PD and are interchangable, so should be possible to install 45W ports in the rear using different part number.

Rev counter? I have a MK4 PHEV and when the recurp. kicks in, the consumption numbers go from positive to minus. But I feel you RobL50. It's extremely hard to understand the logic behind the recuperation and the braking. I mean I still think it's a useless tech that only saves the manufacturers from the cost of an alternator. It's a huge pain and a good reason to reconsider PHEV or even hybrid cars in long distance travel or winter conditions as both functions become literally a mere accessory.